Have you ever tried one of the 67 system's leaf shutter lenses?

A digital full frame Camera with the design of the Contax T, but with an EVF will be great !

Why don't you just buy a better quality film scanner

Una basura integral. Inicialmente con fugas de luz al interior con veladuras en la película y fallos electrónicos: al abrir la tapa delantera, el objetivo se desplegaba y se replegaba constantemente haciendo imposible tomar ninguna foto. Cuando pasaron la producción a China, arreglaron eso, pero comenzaron los problemas con las ópticas, los desenfoques ("macro") y distorsiones en los bordes. En definitiva, una mierda de padre y muy señor mío. Naturalmente, puestos en comunicación con Olympus jamás hicieron nada por arreglarlo. Estoy hablando de casi media docena de unidades.

perfect for those hipsters that are obsessed with "retro" or tactile whatever film garbage, high grain, poor quality, tactile cartridge, its everything they want that they know nothing about!

Was it 35mm? Ilford film?

I recently found an Agfamatic 3008 in my parents' attic and wanted to see what the photos would look like. I was very surprised at how good they turned out. Of course there is a lot of noise but the colors are good. With this camera you can change the exposure time in 4 preset steps.

I'm so happy to see people from other countries being excited about soviet cameras

Have a question: Just could hold a 500CM to try out in a reseller shop. To make another shoot, you have to turn a knob at the right side 4 times until camera is ready to shoot again. In your video I see that you have a different - and maybe easier technique - some knob with a crank(?). Has anyone information about that issue?

For the amount of money something like this costs, I'd much rather spend it on a Flexaret or a Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex. It doesn't take bad photos, but the build quality of Soviet cameras is notoriously bad. If you watch Kyle McDougall's video on it, he loses the focusing ring out of nowhere and after reattatching it, all subsequent shots are blurry and out of focus. I'm sure it can be easily fixed, but for around £50 you can get something much better. A basic Flexaret model is about the same price and a much much better camera. The Flexaret is also an iron curtain camera, but they were built in Czechoslovakia and usually came with Pentacon shutters (from East Germany). Build quality in Czechoslovak and East German cameras was light years ahead of the Soviet ones. Looking at Tradera (Swedish eBay) most Flexarets have gone for between £20-45. I recently picked up a Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex that was film tested and working for about £20 on the Swedish equivalent to eBay. Mine has slight coating damage on the lens which makes shots with a lot of light in them kind of bloomy, but it's not that hard to find better models for cheap. I made a blog post about it (sadly in Swedish, but there are pictures). analogriktning.kallmoraberget.com/posts/ikoflex/

Back in the early 90's I heavily used my mju 1. I later replaced it with the mju2 as i though it would be a natural upgrade with the f2.8 lens. I can tell you all that the mju1 was a much better camera as to the mju2. Also not mentioned here is that the mju2 drained the battery very quickly and i remember the battery type was expensive. Yes - Go for the MJU1 (you won't be disapointed!)

Thanks for the video. Do you recommend the original, the II, III or V (Metal)?

yes, a great camera, have one myself, love it, but a couple of tips: you MUST go UNDER the silver tab on the film mag as you are loading it, so it doesn't scratch it!. second, when using lenses (and extenders/bellows) the accessory goes ON first, Lens LAST, and lens OFF first, Never together, as the spring is in the lens, so any 'trip' of the trigger and the gears jam. Third, all lenses are telephoto (from 135 perspective), so hoods, Tripod and cable release are essentials, more so, when at 1/125th and slower{mirror up is also essential at this point}, if you get to 1/15th you need to HOLD the button until the shutter ends, as the protective Baffles in back close as soon as the button is let go, and operates at 1/15th sec. speed, so can cut exposure time, wrecking the shot. four, for lens removal, the shutter MUST be cocked, so if you don't want to waste a frame, take the back OFF (500/500c\m), or press the button under the crank (200/2000); to do a 'multi-exposure' is the same; so Always wind after shooting, so you don't multi expose by mistake, its all analogue here, even the 205Fcc, it has the F winder and the spot meter, but its operated mechanically [A-mode from dslrs, so you Must at least set aperture, and manually focus, of course!].

WARNING; you are not quite correct as Ilfosol 3 is used for NORMAL development of hp5+ for asa from 400 up to 3200 NOT lower, This (asa 50-250) is accidental over exposure which, according to the hp5+ datasheet is dealt with by Perceptol at 9 minutes at std temp, for asa 250 and any lower it elongates to 11 minutes, NOT for regular use, as this will recover an image, just not as sharp or grainy as the film is capable of in normal box speed development. {other developers like ID11, D76, Extol and others can be used with this film for different effects, economy, etc.}.

On the contrary. 1/30 there as well for studio work with strobe as you’ll be on a tripod so you can go slower for wider open. & flash is roughly 1/1000 anyway. Jack did well. Brilliant project.

My friend it’s a camera from the 40’s and 50’s. You can’t compare it to $3000-$7000 cameras. It’s $40 only, but we can for sure praise the USSR for having a camera in the 50’s as good as this that we are willing to use it today and actually it takes fascinating photos. True or not?

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Portra is the tits. 160 is my favourite, though I've never tried 800 for the reasons you mentioned (cost vs find more light). Miss your videos Samson. You're a bloody good photographer.

110 film is meant for casual snaps. that's how it should be approached.

What abiut red eye in pictures shot in dark? How you handle this?

i sure love mew and mewtwo

I bought this camera from ebay great budget medium format and Fun to use 👍

nice photos and music .

Like clothes and fashion , everything comes back around, but then im 76 and started taking photographs from the age of 10. this reminds me very much of the 60's maybe the 70's with the different Cokin filters that were all the rage, and infra red film

Just joking, great video fella! I am looking for one of these while I wait to find a good deal on a yashica or a rolleiflex (just like everybody else). You've made a good honest video about the problems to look out for. Nice one!

god damn it man, blink!

Those pictures remind me of the disappointing results of a 110 camera in the 1980s. The cheapo unadjustable cameras were mainly for sunny holidays. Some could be adjusted and they were marginally better I think.

Fun fact with sub mini cameras- you shouldn’t use a lab. Use these cheap cameras and cheap film to learn development and scanning. Go get a darkbag and a clipper tank

I like the top shutter speed of 1/500 of a second. You can take a perfect picture of a bullet before it hits you. Everything else is a good report. I have mine since ~ 1982.

Nice video. Thanks

I bought one for several bucks but not tested yet. It lacks everything I need like light meter, clear viewfinder to get focus and a fast lens but still it should take pictures normally.

I can sell you a new one which has never been used

Did you end up keeping this? If so, how’s it going?

Very helpful and too the point. Thanks!

Are you using a 21mm extension tube? Thanks! Beautiful portraits! ❤️‍🔥

Don't blame 110 format and don't blame the scanner. Those pictures are just underexposed. When you're stuck with just 200 iso film and a camera with fixed shutter speed and a fixed aperture of f11, you should only use it in bright sunny days. There's no "plenty of light" in a rainy overcast day. Your eyes adapt to available light, that camera does not

I had the one on top and hated it. I just couldn’t get usable pictures with it.

All i heard - I dont know its not good, its bad, i dont like it. Kids these days. Dont know what vintage n retro is!

Thank you for showing the loading process! My 166B lost one of the lower screws, so the roll won't stay in place while I attach the paper to the takeup reel. I was trying to squeeze the door shut too early. I'm trying an M4x14mm screw soon.

Hi! Could you help me with buying the film camera? I'm torn between MJU I and AF I

you should use dx code labels and change the ISO for more light. shoot 400 at 200

Your pics are much better than most of the 110 pics I see elsewhere. I used to have several Minolta 16 cameras. Essentially same size film. I got sharp but grainy images. Very nice. I don't see anything as good from the many 110 cameras on KZbin.

lol you just got the true vintage 110 experience. Seems like /3 to 1/2 of the images of any roll wouldn't turn out. Especially on point & shoots. My dad was a pro and I'm going through his archives, and everything he shot with his nikons were consistently good, and of everything he & my mom shot with her P&S and 110 cams, about 50% are underexposed, double exposed, or overexposed trash. He just said, well yeah that's what shooting was like in those days, you never really knew what you were going to get. ...why he went digital and never looked back and thinks I'm nuts for liking film. The reasons I like 110 are: it multiplies by four all the inaccuracies, characteristics, and idiosyncrasies of 35mm film, (if I didn't want those elements, I'd just shoot digital) and because my favorite camera ever made takes it. You have to really want your images to scream lofi/glitch film, and then 110 is your baby.

answered many of my questions...thanks much....

Great video 👍 quick question what scanner did you use? Thanks 🙏

The flash contacts make poor contact with your Contax?

Its based on a Voigtländer Brilliant and its not based on a soviet design.

which you recommend getting a T or TVS?

Superb music.

Good video