Glad it was helpful!

I certainly could have, but it would tent to mostly light up the snowblower itself, and a lot of it's light would be blocked by the body of the snowblower. Thanks for watching!

Yes, dirty coils could certainly be the culprit here. Good luck!

I'm glad it was helpful! Good luck with your remodel.

Thanks for watching!

Glad I could help!

Yes, you can likely power something that expects 4.5V with a USB-supplied 5V. Good luck!

@@AmplifyDIY Thank you. For both answers.

Don't use a 12V supply. Even wired in series, it will most likely damage things.

I'm not sure I understand... is the garage door opener not getting power? Maybe a breaker has been flipped?

Hmm... I've never used any sort of anti-fogging stuff on my windshields. Have you contacted the manufacturer to enquire about why it did that and how to remove it?

Thanks 👍

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

Don't wire them in series - wire them in parallel. Then yes, 3 ornaments wired in parallel will just need a power supply capable of handling the amperage. Good luck!

You can do it!

Thank you! Cheers!

Go Blues!

Thank you!

For most refrigerators, replacement parts are pretty easy to find online. I'd search for your model number + "rear access panel" or similar phrasing to find a replacement. Good luck!

Let's Go Steelies!

I've never tried Cerama Bryte - I'll see if I can find some.

Great job!

Yep! Gotta connect an extension cord to use it, though! 😂

You can certainly daisy-chain them all together. If they all run on the same voltage, just make sure you get a power supply that supplies that voltage at enough amps for the circuit. In round numbers as an example: Let's say you have 2 garlands that run on 3 AA batteries each. That means each garland needs between 4-5 volts to operate, and they probably only draw a few milliamps. For simplicity, let's say they each need 100 milliamps @ 5 volts. If you wire them in parallel so that you have a single power supply that runs to both, you'll need something that can supply 5 volts at 200 milliamps. It's better to get something that is rated higher though, so I'd recommend a 5v supply that can handle 500 milliamps. Key takeaways: Wire them in parallel so that each light/garland/tree/whatever gets the same voltage from the supply. Make sure the supply can handle the current draw in milliamps. Good luck!

@@AmplifyDIY you’re the best! That’s exactly what I needed to know. So helpful and clear. Appreciate you!

That's a fantastic tip. Thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it!

You certainly could use a clear one if the bulb is colored. I like to try to match whatever the manufacturer did though, so if they put a red bulb inside a red plastic shell, I'll try to do the same. Great question, and thanks for watching!

Glad the video was helpful and made you laugh!

Thank you for watching!

Hi TSP - if you switch to a tankless, you likely won't need an expansion tank at all. It's there because on a system that uses a large tank of water, that water is what does all the expanding. With a tankless system, there is not a giant tank of water sitting there that expands as it heats. As for distance from the heater: yes, it matters. Consult the instruction manual for installation guidelines for your specific tank, as they all vary a bit. Thanks for watching!

I believe it was 3/8".

It’s a small world! Hopefully, this project will make your holidays a little brighter.

Fantastic idea! Thanks for watching and letting me know how you were inspired. :)

Glad the bloopers made you laugh! And thanks for watching!

Consider this: Have you ever played with a squirt gun in a swimming pool? If you try to shoot it underwater, it barely does anything at all because the water coming out of the squirt gun immediately just runs into and is dissipated by all the water in the swimming pool. Or how about this example: say you are doing some dishes in your kitchen sink. You've just finished the last dish, and there is a bunch of debris that has collected on the bottom of the sink. If you tried to use your faucet's sprayer to move that junk around while the sink is still full, it would be... useless. You always drain the sink first, then use the sprayer to swish away the debris down the drain. Your water heater works exactly the same way. While it is full of water with the cold water supply connected, opening the drain valve has almost no effect at all on the sediment collected at the bottom of the tank. Yes, water will come shooting out of the drain valve, but the mass of all the water in the tank effectively stops any sort of swishing/swirling motion that can otherwise happen at the bottom of your tank if it were empty. So: empty the tank first. Then blast in short bursts with the cold water inlet. This is the most effective way to clear the sediment out of the bottom of your tank. Hope this helps - and thanks for watching!

@AmplifyDIY Interestingly, I just encountered another video from a master plumber who states the opposite. He says it's a much more powerful flushing method to do it with the cold left on and claims that he gets significantly more sediment out than the other way. He calls it the "power flush" method. I get what you're saying, too. Maybe both are effective?

@@chasmofsar2691 Sounds like that plumber does not have a very good understanding of a few physics principles - in particular, Bernoulli's principle. Consider the cold water inlet and hot water outlet of your water heater. They are pretty skinny pipes. Now think of the heater itself as another section of pipe. The thin cold water pipe feeds into the comparatively HUGE water heater, which then feeds into the really small hot water outlet (or drain valve). As water flows through the inlet, it moves VERY fast, but as soon as it gets into the tank, it slows to an absolute crawl. Whether exiting the heater via the drain valve at the bottom, or the hot water outlet at the top, the relative velocity of the water *inside* the tank is incredibly slow and gentle. This idea of a "Power Flush" is only thinking about and observing what's happening *outside* the tank. Think about it another way: If what this plumber says is true, then if you went and opened all the hot water taps in your house at the same time, you'd expect to have tons of sediment come flowing out of your taps (and clogging them all up) because you are effectively doing the "power flush" - just using the hot water outlet rather than the drain valve... but this does not happen, because the water *inside* the tank moves so incredibly slowly even at full pressure as to not disturb the sediment much. The "Power Flush" this plumber is talking about will clear out sediment that is right near the tank drain valve, and can clear clogged drain valves... but it's not as effective at removing sediment just sitting on the bottom of the tank.