Yes! Agee 100%!! Good to know I am not the only one. I do have issues with all "My paper cartridges" left to foul the ignition train to one degree, or another? Some more than others, but all are not as clean as a powder charge. But depending on size most go down a long arm right to the charge containment without any powder on the inside of a barrel getting stuck in the lub and such. My daughter left some hi quality "crape paper" from a wedding to close to my loading bench. It may be? NEXT! Thanks again! to lazy, to far to go test to make my own "darn" video. KEEP UP The GREAT WORK Please?

I did this and i used 2 tanks. When i cut the door on the one i was useing i cut it a little smaller then the bulk head so id have that lip the i cut it bigger off the second tank for my door. Also the handles on top make great legs weld them to the bottom and there ur nice and low just make sure u put something under it that wont burn and an old fly wheel makes a nice cook surface. Dont forget to do something for a spark arrester. Maube u did im still watching

You should try the same test with a Percussion Rifle with Factory made Percussion Caps just to see if the results are comparable to the Flint Lock Tests.

Just mho… blending can only hurt your powder. One source is definitely going to burn faster than the other source. The slower burning source , I would consider a contaminate.

I have recently cut some large grape vine about the size of my arm after a tree fell. I will let it air dry for a while in my wood stove heated basement. After it dries a while in the 90 degree warm room, I plan to make some char and try it out. That is some great velocity spread on your powder.! Love your channel, keep up the fine work. I do have a question. Have you ever heard of anyone experimenting using used coffee grounds for char? I figure since I drink coffee, I might try it out and see. Right now my compost worms turn it into compost for the garden and I get fishing worms for the catfish.

Merry Christmas. I thought I would mention that I uploaded the op-ed for my aftershoot account of the 100% balsa based powder... spoiler alert... I like my Osage/balsa 50/50, but my 100% balsa was weak tea. It consistently lacks the impetuous factor of the 50/50... I think we're onto something with blended charcoals. Both show no sign of difference in the swab test, as my powder is inherently dirtier due to my milling method, but there's a distinct difference in power. Osage/balsa 50/50 almost hurts to shoot from my revolver. (It's my philosophy, that if you're gonna carry BP as a defensive option, the most powerful powder is the best option) I will have to try some alder instead of the balsa... maybe there's even more power to squeeze outta the Osage.

Thank you sir you and your family have merry Christmas 🎄

Thank You and Merry Christmas

Thanks, Blessings and Merry Christmas

Good

I wonder if the internal threaded plunger is a kind of regulator for a specific black powder brand? It could also be set to the industry standard of 1.75g/cc compression rate used by commercial black powder manufacturers to equal out weight and volume measurements on the powder measure.

An interesting experiment, and very informative. Thank you for taking the time to do it.

In your video, you showed some small particles of KNO3 after the burn test of the Osage Orange black powder. This raises a question for me, are you recrystallizing your KNO3 before you use it? If you are not, those particles could simply be impurities in your potassium nitrate that remain unburned.

Paper cartridges are ok. However, I am NOT a competition or speed shooter, I am fully aware that sometimes the paper has to be removed between loadings. Then again, if you are using brush and patch around the 2nd or 3rd shots as you are supposed to, no harm, no foul. Safely was the only way I was taught

I believe that the zig zag 'ultra thin' are by far the best. anything left behind is more of the flake variety than the much much larger pieces you are finding with the paper you use. After all? it was purpose made to burn pretty cleanly. Also I made my own jig using a teflon block

I honestly don't care if they leave paper behind. I use zig zag papers and they are plenty good enough. What they leave behind is not really a concern for a few reasons. As they say...your mileage may vary...Here is why I love em. I have 'black powder' days just like I have 1911 days or Colt revolver days or Smith and wesson days or SAA days or whatever. I don't really go to ranges and go to private property outdoors places.. where the 'facilty' has a pic a nic table we all put out there at best lol. Also I have no control over the weather and there is always some wind which makes for loose powder being problematic to impossible. and of course... black powder days you simply shoot much less than say 1911 days. sooo my setup is several bp revolvers on a table outdoors with several cylinders for each revolver. I have regular plastic cartridge boxes that have already made 5-=100 rounds in em. My capper is a wheel type. so a lot of the issues with shooting bp outdoors are ... negated? another thing I have done is nickel plate the guns including the insides of the cyl. also...I have reamed the chambers/cyl to bore or slightly less size and use oversize (to the bore) balls... also... I think helps is I use my version of Ed's Red to clean all my firearms. It actually penetrates the metal. The main problems with bp revolvers are cap jams and fouling. Stiffer main springs do a lot for 'negating' cap jams. the other stuff was for fouling. A ball that is sized (in the cyl) to bore size scours the fouling out (pretty much) every time you fire a new round... Nickel keeps fouling from sticking pretty much If there is any paper fouling in the cyl? tapping it on the bench or just blowing it out works. plus? I have an extra cyl anyway. the only remaining problem that makes the gun non functional till cleaning is the BC gap which... I can just wipe that off of the nickel surfaces. Sooo FOR ME and the way I have setup? paper is all good with no bad.

On a side note, what brand is your lefty flintlock? Trying to find one for my godson.

After the first time you brought this to my attention, I have avoided paper cartridges over carrying a spare cylinder. Even the tissue paper, just isn't good enough. I figure that if I had to reload, either I'm target shooting, or I'm dead, and so it really doesn't matter. Thanks for the info, it does help. Even if it reinforces my/our biases.

Crossen cartidges makes some mould kits so one can fashion hazard cartridges, no paper, just compressed and formed powder, and they are waterproof to boot. You should try them! I use women’s hair roller paper, very light and minimum fouling from the paper carts, never had a misfire.

Mình rất thích lò củi

The use of NITRATE MODEL AIRPLANE DOPE , ON STRETCHED AND SHUNK TISSUE PAPER , IS THE PRACTICAL AND HISTORIC DESIGN, ALSO NO GLUE BECOUSE THE NITRATE DOPE IS GLUE AND ,,complete burning with no paper left over is ressult , these cartridges are absolutely superior to any I see on U tube ❤

Ok this half makes me wonder if Toilet paper would solve the problem. And yes that was a sarcastic remark directed at toilet paper gun powder. But it does make me wonder, if it would be better or if chari g coffee filters for use as paper cartridge is possible.

I like “end wrap” papers that women use on the curlers they use for hair perms. I nitrite those and they work great. Coffee filters are too thick and cigarette papers tend to come apart too easy. Any paper you use needs to be nitrated if you have any hope of not leaving any paper behind. But coffee filters are not good no matter what you do, at least in my experience. I also use 4f or triple 7 most of the time. Not sure if that matters or not, but my thinking is it burns a little hotter to burn up the paper a bit better.

I've had the same thing with both my Pietta .44's .Blackie Thompson has a video where he uses Dixie Gun Works "Dixie Tubes" to contain the Powder ,Wad and Ball with the wad to seal the Tube against spilling . I've tried them and they work better for me just refill them when you get back home. I've tried cig. paper for the end and Nitrated Coffee Filter for the body and this works better with Pyrodex P which doesn't always Light with Pyrodax P if you just use coffee filters. I've had a lot of them Tear with Cig. Paper and a few with coffee filters . No matter what I've tried I get a lot of unburned paper so I carry a Small flat tip pocket screwdriver for scraping out the unburned residue .

Maybe, lenses cleaning tissues.

I nitrate my tissue and the remains are minimal.... but they are there. After several cylinders I find that on cleaning there are still tiny bits left. The issue seems to be the glue used to hold the bottoms in place. I haven't tried it, but wonder if we could formulate a glue that dried into something very flammable, because I think that is is the glue that causes the residue rather than the paper itself. If in doubt with a dirty pistol, run a nipple pick through the bottom of the loaded cartridge after loading.

It ain’t the paper cartridges, it’s that Uberti! Improper orifice diameter in the nipples 🤣😬

I experienced samething

In my opinion if it leaves unburnt paper it's a whaste of time making them, if you count the time and effort to produce them and add the extra time to get rid of the residue left on each chamber, compared to fill each chamber with loose powder the "traditional" way. Hope you have a Merry Christmas!

A Very Merry Christmas to You and your Family Michael! I’ve made paper cartridges a number of times and the paper used makes a big difference I’ve found. Pattern paper worked okay for me but the best I found was American Spirit papers. A friend gave me a cigar box full of papers he didn’t use but used the tobacco. I forgot about them but when found, I thought, CARTRIDGES! They are very thin rice paper if I remember. But the thing I found that worked best for me is being sure that the base of the cartridge was only one layer. I found if I just crimped or wrinkled the base end I had the problem with misfire sometimes. Of course a person will have this problem from time to time. But the sure “Fire” method is hand loading as you suggest. But it is fun to make paper cartridges for my 36 and 44 sitting at the work bench. I may make 12 or 18 every so often but there is something more fun about loading by hand as well. Anyway you look at it, it’s all just historically fun. I suppose in battle you’d be happy for paper cartridges but if a few didn’t fire it may have made the difference of surviving or not. Shooting black powder gives me a deep respect and admiration for all those soldiers of the day. Thanks So Much Michael and Keep on Lame Beavering On! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania

Informative video. i am looking into getting my start into black powder and any new information is always helpful. I appreciate the info.

I don't care for them i think there a waist of time.

I agree with you 100%. I shot the first ones ever today with same results. And I did not even know you had ever tried them. This was my first experience with them after watching this video I am convinced I’m done with it until you find something that works. I was also using nitrated paper that burns completely until it’s inserted in a cylinder and fired.

Properly nitrated paper will leave no paper as it will be nitro cellulose and burn completely. the problem is getting good nitric acid the sulfuric acid is easy, but not everybody should do it as it is not safe. Leave that to the pros. stick to powder and ball and life will be good and you will have both of your eyes to shoot your other guns. just like gun cotton not safe to make but neither is nitro glycerin same process and just as much fun on big rocks

I do not use paper cartridges when competing. I do use them when we go stump and rabbit hunting.I just stick a tweezer a cone wrench and 2 doz. P.cart. in my pocket very convenient.The glue on the paper is usually most of the problem I try to use very little glue. I use cornmeal instead of a wad and vent pick after reloading. Haven't had much trouble.

What a great video!!! Thanks for sharing this information with us

Always interesting!

Excellent video !!! Nice looking Buck on scope !!!

More Kool aid

I dont think any of the manufactures look at these fine measurements. They had the numbers they wanted years ago. Thanks for your continuation of test.

Well I saw both of those video’s you mentioned by that KZbin content creator, you mentioned. Now having owned a Colt Walker, an owning a 1860 Army, as well as an 1858 Remington all in the same .44 caliber here’s something you missed Lane. In the first video he does load the Colt Walker with 55 grains of 3F black powder and a round ball. He then loads 35 grains and a Dragoon bullet, that is much longer and much heavier than the Picket bullet that the Colt Walker originally used. In both video’s he mentions he cannot find the Picket Bullet. In the second video I tell him the site and the mold number on that site for the Picket Bullet. I also tell him how much I shoot in my 1860 Army and that I do it with a British Kur bullet. I also tell him I am not stupid enough to shoot 60 grains of triple 7 in any of my revolvers, as that would be result in over charging the cylinders for my revolvers as triple 7 is technically a smokeless powder that is considered a black powder substitute. But he is right you cannot load 60 grains in a Colt Walker with a dragoon bullet, it’s too big a bullet. That’s what everyone is missing, and even I missed on the first video of his. And he did shoot 55 grains with a round ball.

What state is this in?

White tail, black tail, or mule?

I've used rubber i use marbles and brass and lead ball's for many years and my powder is cleaner than Swiss or the other manufacturers powder and i turn my tumblers for 40 hours great video 👍👍👍👍👍

We need more mountain men or else we'll find ourselves in the stone age soon...

G'day Lame I agree with your thought of using you planner shavings . My self I prefer using saw dust , Camphor laurel . My preferred wood at present is a Australian native Illawarra Flame Tree . With coral tree { cockspur coral } as my second preference " as all ways still in development " . I tried Iron bark an Australian hard wood 1150kg cubic meter strong powder but dirty . Good on ya, keep up the good work . John NSW Australia ]

Good Shootin Michael! I’m always glad to see the Lame Beaver notification pop up! That big ole Buck and his clan must Love dining at Uncle Mikes! He almost made me want to try a mouthful! Just a thought came to mind and I thought, I’ll have to put this bug in Michael’s ear. Over years I’ve collected many wine corks to make small kitchen sized bulletin boards. Make a deep frame and glue the corks in groups and with the logos on the cork facing out it looks pretty cool. I had everyone saving corks for me and they make good file handles as well. The synthetic corks I use mostly for files. As I came across a bunch of corks I thought, I wonder what kind of charcoal corks would make and powder from that charcoal? So there’s an idea Michael. I realize having a cheap source of cork would be an issue but I would be happy to send you a bunch to try if you wish. I’ve used corks for so many things besides file handles too,cutting them down in slices o the band saw to make washers or gaskets. Anyway, I wonder how these would do powder wise. let me know if you’d like to try and I can send a cigar box sized load if you think that’s enough to try if you feel like doing so. Kind Thanks and Many Blessings! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania p.s. I just remembered that I have to big pieces of cork bark from the cork oak a friend gave to me years back, cork in the rough.

Where did you get a left handed rifle

Do you refine your kno3 or do you use it as you receive it. Also what did you use to make your pucking die out of I have ruined 2 with a 12 ton press.

Great video 👍