I have a similar problem, and the most easiest and accessible fix for me was to disconnect the 12V battery and then reconnect it. This reinitializes the servo motor (at the cost of resetting your car's time and HU setting) and A/C remains cold, until you turn up the temperature to above 26 deg C (78F). Hope this helps!

I did this on my gen 3 and it worked perfectly. I'm too cheap to buy a pedal depressor so I used a 2x4 and adjusted the seat to depress the pedal. Flushed my brakes out fast. No error codes

I did the whole procedure and after I put everything together and wanted to start the car, it didn't start and the red triangle appeared.

I didn't understand, is this an automatic transmission or a CVT? There is no ATF for an automatic transmission, I think? 🤔

This is absolutely amazing!

I have seen Videos for lexus rx 350 with a two bolts to release the air bags. But my 13 rx 350 looks like this Steering. It does not have the bolts on it.

Thanks a lot.

BRILLIANT SOLUTION! Love it. I picture this though: Toyota Service Manager "How come there's a big run on Prius V spare tire's and toolkits?"

I have an 01’ v6 stang, light comes on and off for long periods of time what could that be??

Pretty soon the whole car will have to be mad Max

Have a 2013 Prius and Abs and traction sign have been on that took a local dealership for diagnosis. They said the wires were chewd by rat and its the same location. They quoted $1800 and 10hrs of labor. Is that real?

thank you, this is super helpful! I have a 2014 chevy volt that's well over 100,000 miles by now, but I really love my car, so thank you for sharing this great way to extend its life span!

Was there a point in time where you turned on the car or just have the door open to keep the brake pump pumping? My brake bleeding valves don’t bleed from the ports, I pretty much had to unscrew them… I must be doing everything wrong

I'm just finishing off this job on our 2013 C-Max Energi. I'm not a mechanic. I am an old mechanical engineer with close to 40 years of experience, who specialized in structural finite element analysis and opto-mecanical design. My hobbies have been fixing and customizing cars for almost 50 years and I have changed many blower fans over the years. This HVAC and dash assembly is an embarrassment to all mechanical engineers and mechanical designers. I've never seen such a horribly designed system in my life. So far I've spent at least 12 hours on this. In our case the old fan had somehow distorted so badly that I had to make up a tool to apply well over 80 ft-lbs to get the fan motor out, not to mention need to get my son-in-law to help on the driver's side while I worked on the passenger side. That was actually my 3rd attempt to make the tool. The first two simple ones broke because they couldn't handle the torque. Everything about this design is beyond ridiculous. Different screws requiring 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, T-15, T-20, etc. tools. Screws coming into modules blind from the firewall side. Blind hardware access for far, far to many screws. Magnetic T-20 tools with long extensions required to get the recirculation module out/in, etc, etc. Even the air bag is mounted with a complicated assortment of brackets using different hardware, blind screws and unnecessary interlocking brackets that provide no structural benefit. It is funny that I turned down a job offer from Ford in 1999 to work in their HVAC department. Had I accepted I might have been involved in designing this mess. I can tell you I would never have approved and signed off on this design. One thing I have always done is had my junior engineers always be the first to assemble what they've designed. I wonder if this was designed by an engineer who had technologists always help assemble everything? It also looks like different people designed the mounting solutions and the brackets and there was no effort to use consistent screw heads or mounting methods. When my Ford dealer quoted $3000 I thought that was ridiculous and that I would just do it myself. Now I understand where that number came from.... How on earth did you manage to get this done in only 3 hours? I'm my case I didn't skip any hardware but I had to use my endoscope to see many screws, a custom built, very long with neodimium magnets, T-15 tool for the recirc module, plus the tool to turn the blower motor through the fan itself.

Good video thanks for sharing!

How do you bleed the stroke simulator using this method? I have an annoying c1246 error, despite following this method. I cant seem to bleed the stroke simulator. Nothing comes out.

As the same problem with noise but turn lock cost the problem

Thanks man for posting this great video. The dealer wanted $3,500 for the job on my 2007 Prius, which is probably worth that much as a whole. I did the job myself and saved a ton of money. Also, I followed your other video on bleeding the ABS and brakes without scan tool and it worked flawlessly. The car is back on the road and runs great! Thanks a ton!

I couldn’t get my drums back on

Awesome

Can the same be done for a 5th gen prime?

Easier Method with two identical buckets. 1. Drain fluid into one bucket. Weigh or Measure amount. My 2018 it was about 7 quarts. 2. Pour same amount of new Dexron 6 taken out into the fill port. 3. Drive ~100 miles with mixed electric and hold mode. 4. Repeat Drain, Measure and Fill procedure. This will replace majority of all fluid.

What would happen if i keep driving the car with this issue?

I dont have a scan tool for the bleeding procedure. Do i need it?

It worked on my Lexus rx400h. Thank you soooooo much. I was kinda freaking out after replacing calipers, rotors and pads all the way around to find out I was dead in the water until I bought a $200 scan tool. Thank you!!

Thank you so much for the video. My M3 RWD is very moody when it’s come to drive straight. Sometimes it pull to right like no tomorrow after being parked for a while. And most of the time is 80% ok, not 100% straight. Alignment done twice already. I am a Mechanical Engineer by profession. And I think Tesla should be sue for a BIG bad lemon. Tesla purposely set the steering wheel off center for psychological reasons. To fool the driver to keep centering the steering wheel and to keep the car going straight without realizing the alignment issue. My 98 Camry track straight on Freeway for than 9 seconds after letting off the steering wheel. Tesla 2 seconds. I know what road crown affects the straight-line. But this just infuriating me almost every day.

To get the car in natural from the screen go to the towing mode

Hello, I have the same problem with my Prius C 2015. Can you please give me the part number of the piece that needs to be replaced?

You look like you are in SF. Do you do house calls? No problems yet, purchased 2012 Prius yesterday. You seem very competent!

Hi may i ask for advice? I have fbm compacta it's not cooling. Fbm say its not enough freon. We added freon with fbm advice to vacuum all out then add 1kg to one side then 200g to the otherside. But it has the same problem, now they say its too much freon. I showed them non of the cooling parts are cooling local mechanics says compressor might be broken. Fbm says they refuse to replace and refuse to give any info on the compressor Would you have any advice for me

Just did this same job got it together and car wont start checked part number and the last number is diff than the one removed problem?

Thank you for the video, now my cruise control works perfectly

My ODB unit is cheap and doesn't have the ABS pump activation. I have an air compressor type brake bleeder for doing frequent fluid changes with race fluid on my race car where the ABS module small stored quantity would not affect the boil point. Here in my 2016 Prius (don't laugh. It's a great street car.) which has quite aged fluid in the reservoir I was thinking of doing your method of ABS purge (except use my wife on the brake pedal) but start at the LF wheel being closest to the reservoir and the ABS to get the ABS fluid changed out first. Then switch out to my regular bleeder to now-known clean fresh fluid to the other three wheels in regular wheel order to speed up the process. Any flaws in logic? Can that miss even a small amount of old fluid somewhere? I'm wondering... 1. Unrelated: Will the ABS pump even run long enough without timing-out before clean fluid starts coming out on the long runs (RR & LR)? and, 2. I don't know if in regular driving (using non-ABS braking almost always) does the fluid to all 4 wheels still go through the ABS module and flow right through the pump even though off, or take a bypass route around the actual pump part (containing an unknown but small amount of fluid), and thus be the reason for activating it to purge the old fluid out through the ABS pump action in the first place. So, IF it takes a bypass route (containing (X) amount of fluid) rather than flowing through the pump itself I'm sort-of worried that without activating the ABS to purge the other 3 wheels to clean fluid I still might, with the above method) be reintroducing old dirty fluid back into the system - albeit a smaller amount. Thanks for a great video. What's you feeling about this?

Was there any kind of plugs in the tubes you had to remove on the new part? I just got my Prius back from Toyota for this. Of course they tried to charge for me for it until I went in there with a printout of the Technical Service Bulletin for this. They ended up doing it for free plus a free rental car. It took 3 months for them to get the part and now I have no heat. I don't know what it could be besides air in the lines or a blocked heater core. I've tried everything. I hate to take it back to the dealer after the experience I had with them.

For anyone doing this rock auto sells NSK made in Japan units that are equivalent to the KOYO factory ones (they tend to last longer in my experience) and they are $100 per unit!

Thanks for the video, it helped my navigate this job. But if your car is rusty from up north, just do yourself a favor and burn the car before doing this job removing the brake lines from that aluminum block is not nice especially if you bust off any lines. Turns this into a 12 hr job

Thank you for this video sir

There are those that get the alignment 'within the green' then there are those that get it bang on.

Does this spare fit the XLE model with 19 inch tires?

What is the proper pressure on low port after recharge?

Wow! This is the easiest way to bleed the brake fluid that I have ever seen. Does this method also work for Gen 3 Prius 2010~2015?

prius 30 the same way ?

This is incredible, should totally start a small business selling these kits to people, I would easily pay top dollar for that.

Thank you for the clear instructions and clip!

How many miles does this normally go bad? I have 81,000 on mine, and I'm getting the same error on my dash.

Thank you so much!

That's a wierd looking Prius! I wonder if you could tell if the charge was low by using an infra red camera to see at what height in the evaporator coil the phase changes. Like how on low charge there will be a telltale distinct level of frost only part way up the coil - but without having to wait long enough for that to happen. Not sure if that would work, but I just had coffee 😆

I’m subscribed (:

Questions will I be fine doing this on 2022 Prius XLE 🙏 what’s best way to not get code

Can one do that after replacing ABS module and brake booster?