I really enjoy mine!

Thanks!

I used the 12mm Hex conversion kit for Tamiya Bruiser 2012 (store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-conversion-kit-for-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012_p_2504.html?fbclid=IwAR0rnCarITXbak0L2QVw58HajVniAfBM9A5_iyxZAs_hVS-MVraRGfWd54I). The front is pretty straightforward, but the rear will require slight modification since HG P407 is not the same as Tamiya Bruiser 2012. When you open up, you will see the mod that is needed. Good luck.

@@BigSungHobbies many thanks, particularly for providing a link. Most of the time I search online all I find is vague references to needing to do this mod or that mod and no clear instructions. Had I not had a 3d printer for example I would not have been able to do the front servo mod

It's proven to be a very effective chassis.

Glad to help

It's not needed, but if you feel more comfortable, you can put very light coating.

Sorry for the late reply...was out of country. Once the mod is done, you can use a lipo charger using a multi-dongle that you can pick up from Amazon.

This is a clone of Tamiya Bruiser from many years ago. The transmission isn't that robust, and only handles 2S batteries. If you like speed, I would steer you towards other more recent RC that can run on 3S Lipo. Good luck.

@BigSungHobbies no I mean I I have one that definitely go like the one I just did today I actually have a 1/10 that goes well above 80mph. Because I have a bunch of extra parts I was hoping to get something like this like a build kit and put a little bit more power to it I mean it doesn't need to go 50 Mi an hour but not 20

Keep in mind that there aren't many RC Crawlers that will be able to hit 20mph. They are designed for crawling, low-end control, and speed isn't the priority. Don't quote me on it, but TRX4 with 2 speed at high end only hits around 15-16 mph. Can you make it go faster? Yes, you can but you end up sacrificing crawling capabilities. Just something to think about.

Thank you so very much for the comment! I greatly appreciate it.

Thank you so very much for the kind words! Great appreciate it!

Thank you so very much!

Thank you so very much! And yes, I do plan to come back hopefully soon.

Unfortunately, I never ended up finishing it....personal stuff came out, and I have been away from RC for a while, but I am planning to come back...hopefully soon, and resume including this one.

No it will not. You will be replacing the factory 11% OD gears with 25% OD gears.

@@BigSungHobbies Thanks

If you want the Ecto body in yellow already painted, then I would order it here. www.associatedelectrics.com/element/parts/details/42160-ASC42160-enduro_ecto_body_set_yellow/ It looks like they are out of stock right now. Put yourself on the waitlist. You could also check local hobby shop, and see if you can find Tamiya paints that matches it. Good luck.

My pleasure! And thank you for leaving a positive comment. Greatly appreciate it.

I am not sure what you are asking...maybe 4 link conversion...if that is the case, I have few videos on it that should help.

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!

Congrats on the reefs servo! As for your question, just to be on the safe side, I would reach out to Reefs and see what they advise. Good luck.

Mine is a little louder as well. It should be fine, but you can always dab a very thin layer of grease to see if that helps.

You're welcome!

I believe they do as far as I can recollect...it's been a while since I have worked on one. I think you will love the performance of either options.

Setting 5 lets you choose motor rotation on Quicrun Fusion SE, option 1 CCW & option 2 CW. You can download the manual here: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual_HW-SMC319DUL_QUICRUN_Fusion_SE_20220722.pdf?v=1669157586

Glad it was helpful!

If you go Servo on Axle setup which is basically 4 link setup, the steering link length will differ slightly. For SOA setup, there is no more need for panhard. As for the 4th link, I was able to find an extra front upper link, so I ended up using that. Normally I would have just ordered a new set of front upper links from HardcoreRC if I wasn't able to source an extra front upper link.

Thanks for the info.

I am not sure offhand. The nice thing is that you can adjust it really quick so I would try it one way, and if it isn't the right way, re-set it for opposite. Sorry for the delay in response...been outside of the country for the last couple of weeks.

@@BigSungHobbies So basically what I meant was is it ok to have this motor rotating in any direction (cw or ccw) for forward and reverse rather than having to reverse the throttle on the transmitter??

Most folks use the throttle on the transmitter the same way, pull to forward, and push away for reverse, so I would adjust the motor rotation accordingly first. Hope that makes sense.

@@BigSungHobbies so it doesn’t do the motor any harm to be spinning in a certain direction??

@@Real_rescuer It does not, thus the option to set CCW or CW.

Yes, I am still around. I have been preoccupied with work and family for the past year. I am out of country at the moment, but I will be back in few weeks and hoping to resume filming again.

It is waterproof. I have submerged it few times. That being said it probably isn’t a good idea to submerge it all the time though…electronics and water is not a good combination;)

@@BigSungHobbies Great to know thanks for the info and reply!

Normally ESC is correct, but it is a combination of esc and receiver thus Traxxas calls it ecm.

They are brass wheel weights that can be easily found on Amazon that have been added for additional weight to the front end. Keep in mind that it does add rotational weight, but it's an easy way to get weight at axle level and to the front end.

I believe all the program card are the same, just with different stickers. You should be able to input the same parameters, but I would check the manual and compare.

@@BigSungHobbies Thank you Sir

I have used it this way for several years, and I have never ran into issues. The draw is pretty small that it does not seem to matter in my cases.

Most welcome!

At the time of the video, these were the only options.

From what I have read, it doesn't need it, but you can put very light coating if you feel more comfortable.

Thank you very much for the comment. Greatly appreciate it. The video was put together early last year. At that time, Vanquish offered only as a kit, so it was not included. The video was focused on RTR RC's. However, now that they are offering it, it should definitely be included now.

Yes, it was.

@@BigSungHobbies thanks what size pinion was you running

Unfortunately my friend no longer has the rig, so I am not able to verify it.

@@BigSungHobbies it cool thanks for the reply

Also where can I get those brass links made😂

Just cheapo brass wheel weights from Amazon.

It's my friend's rig, so I am not sure where he got them. I think someone locally was making them, but I am not sure. Sorry.

Thanks for the opinion.

I found a threaded link in my local hobby store and ended up going with that. In my early days, there weren't too many after market links that I was aware of not unlike these days. The length can vary between the 3d print mods, so it will take a bit of trial and error. Good luck.

Unfortunately the length will vary between the setup, so a bit of trial and error will be needed. Good luck.

Thanks for subbing! Greatly appreciate it.

This is when I had panhard mount setup. Unless you go for 4-link setup, this is what you will need.

@@BigSungHobbies thank you for the reply

Great choice. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Going SOA is not about dropping the front end, but shifting the center of gravity to front end and lower it. That being said, one side benefit that I see is the slight increase in travel due to removing the bottoming effect of panhard mount. Give it a try. Once you go SOA setup, you won't go back ;)

@@BigSungHobbies the center of gravity is not as much of my concern as improving the front end suspensions function at lower ride height. I believe the stock setup with panhard mount applies lateral motion to the frame during suspension travel on top of limiting the bottom 1-3mm of travel. So servo on axle appears to have multiple benefits.

If you want performance out of your rig, then servo on axle is the way to go.

Happy to help