They are two separate actions, ESC vs. Receiver. That being said, if it was up to me, I would bind the receiver to the gt5 transmitter first. Then program the ESC. Good luck.

Thx for responding, I definitely need all the help I can get!!

Appreciate the comment. Happy crawling.

Checkout this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6DUZ5aue9Gbr9k I believe I was running 1" RC4WD Rock Creeper at that time, but I prefer the Proline Hyrax 1.0. As for shocks, I am running stock shocks, but modified version. I should have a video on the modification, so search for it.

Thanks!

Thank you for looking at the video!

I got them from Hardcore RC. Here's a quick link. As for sizing, you can contact them if you don't see what you are looking for. hardcorerc.net/Element-c36019146

Element Sendero SE is basically the same as Element Enduro Sendero. I have bunch of upgrades on the Element Playlist, so take a look there. studio.kzbin.infoPLdzm4R8gmSJs8WPaZy-Djhe4UJkUxwGqs/videos

Thank you so very much for your comment. Greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

Sorry to hear. Without knowing the circumstance and being able to test, it's too difficult to assess. Hope you have someone that can take a look and help diagnose. Good luck.

I don't believe there is a fail safe built into the FS-R6B receiver nor the FS-GT3B transmitter, other than the natural range limitation. It might be a good question to follow up with FlySky though. Good luck.

Thank you!

Muchas gracias!

That would be the most economical way to go!

I don't remember from my memory, but you might be able to reach out to Traxxas customer service for the information. Good luck.

@@BigSungHobbies thanks ❤

Thank you!

Thank you too

The best bet is to reach out to Hardcore RC, and they will help you find the right set. They have great customer service, so reach out to them.

The intent of this video is to help put together the high clearance links, but more importantly to identify which ones are which. The lengths do make a difference, and they don't usually come with instructions. I have other videos that actually puts the build together including the high clearance links.

Thank you very much for the question. I say go do it. I find that after finding the right weight distribution, lowering the center of gravity is the next biggest performance improvement. The good thing about this hobby is that we can try to find the right adjustments that works for you, and you can always revert back if you don't like it. Good luck.

Sorry, but I no longer have the wheels as I changed them out for treal wheels which are a bit more weighty.

Glad to hear that it helped out. I also had tons of 1080 card to use as well.

Weight change is minimal, so I didn't go as far as doing it myself, but I don't think it will hurt.

Thanks!

Thanks for the good reminder!

I run 3S batteries strictly with the HW Fusion Pro.

@@BigSungHobbies Can I plug an 11.1v lithium ion battery onto it as last one blew up. Maybe wires crossed? Just double triple checking😂

Yes they are. They are currently set to 1:1. However, you are able to change the gearing to the rear so that it further helps with the crawling if you so desire.

@@BigSungHobbies how so ? I recently bought an element sendero SE from my budddy. It’s got a commanche body , and a hobbywing 2 in 1 1800kv

@@valleymade9563 The gear is changed via the transmission. As long as they retain the original transmission, and you are able to pick up the OD (over drive gears...Element used to come with free 6% and 12% OD gears for free, but I can't remember if the SE came with them or not). Ask your friend. You could always buy 25% OD gears as well.

@@BigSungHobbies thank you good sir

Yes, you can. That's what I use as well. Mine came with a sticker, so I applied to one of my 1080 program card.

@@BigSungHobbies Oh very nice! Thanks much!

Same here. It makes the install so much easier.

It really depends on your goal for the build. If you are building for crawl performance, then those will raise the center of gravity. But if you are looking for scale build with improved performance, then it's not a bad way to go. Good luck.

I don't think you need shorter shocks. The shocks that are on Ecto's are great. Angling shocks might be daunting at first, but it really isn't. Play around with it. Good luck.

@@BigSungHobbies oh ok cool, I do like the hair bans to lower the truck also!!

I don't believe they have changed it for the newer ectos, so I think it should. Good luck.

@@BigSungHobbiesI saw a video where the zuul can be lowered front as back.cool. thanks

It should. Let me know how it goes.

@@BigSungHobbies ill see if I get the black one!! Ty

It's 3mm wide.

Understood, but comparing to SCX24 ECM, it's not too shabby.

Why?!?

Thanks for the info. You can always move to magnetized setup and not worry about drilling new holes.

Thank you for the compliment and question. They are both great choices and you won’t go wrong with either of them. That being said right out of the box I would give slight edge to Sendero SE. It performed extremely well and financially it is better value. Good luck.

Max Brake Force is adjusted through Mode 10. But I would play with Mode 1, Running mode, which has three options…maybe set to option with just Forward/Reverse. Good luck.

Yes, it is per the marketing material as well as I have submerged mine few times, so I can confirm it.

I really enjoy mine!

Thanks!

Yes it is. The protection grade of the whole system is IP67, with excellent waterproof and dustproof performance. Under various weather conditions, the whole system can easily deal with the complex road surface containing silt, ice and snow, and water.

I used the 12mm Hex conversion kit for Tamiya Bruiser 2012 (store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-conversion-kit-for-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012_p_2504.html?fbclid=IwAR0rnCarITXbak0L2QVw58HajVniAfBM9A5_iyxZAs_hVS-MVraRGfWd54I). The front is pretty straightforward, but the rear will require slight modification since HG P407 is not the same as Tamiya Bruiser 2012. When you open up, you will see the mod that is needed. Good luck.

@@BigSungHobbies many thanks, particularly for providing a link. Most of the time I search online all I find is vague references to needing to do this mod or that mod and no clear instructions. Had I not had a 3d printer for example I would not have been able to do the front servo mod

It's proven to be a very effective chassis.

Glad to help

It's not needed, but if you feel more comfortable, you can put very light coating.

Sorry for the late reply...was out of country. Once the mod is done, you can use a lipo charger using a multi-dongle that you can pick up from Amazon.

This is a clone of Tamiya Bruiser from many years ago. The transmission isn't that robust, and only handles 2S batteries. If you like speed, I would steer you towards other more recent RC that can run on 3S Lipo. Good luck.

@BigSungHobbies no I mean I I have one that definitely go like the one I just did today I actually have a 1/10 that goes well above 80mph. Because I have a bunch of extra parts I was hoping to get something like this like a build kit and put a little bit more power to it I mean it doesn't need to go 50 Mi an hour but not 20

Keep in mind that there aren't many RC Crawlers that will be able to hit 20mph. They are designed for crawling, low-end control, and speed isn't the priority. Don't quote me on it, but TRX4 with 2 speed at high end only hits around 15-16 mph. Can you make it go faster? Yes, you can but you end up sacrificing crawling capabilities. Just something to think about.

Thank you so very much for the comment! I greatly appreciate it.