Hello... What is the finish you put on these planes? is it consistent on the entire plane?

What sort of tree are these made from? I have one very similar that I'm slabbing up at the moment and no-one can tell me what it is. Lovely work by the way.

Have you ever considered making Japanese Kumiko planes, would love to see them from you, natural fit for your talents. Plow plane is fantastic, huge congratulations on the project!!🎉🎉

Just used my A55 once again today, and was reminded of just how beautiful a plane it truly is.

Thanks Terry.

Thanks Terry - great stuff.

what a beauty

Sexy, but now I want to see you join the ranks of E. M. Chapin and Solon R. Rust as the greatest wooden plane makers in history by making a 3-arm plow. Only the greatest plane makers have ever produced 3-arm plows. All patents for which have expired and are fair game. I myself make a 3-arm kerfing plane. Love your work!

Which wooden plane is best suited to cut a rectangular groove 3/8ths inch wide in centre of a 6 inch wide board. The groove is needed to house the party bead in a box sash window. Thanks.

Nice 😊

Thank you, very sound advice, gives me confidence.

So good thanks

What adhesive product do you recommend to install the cork pad to the inside vice face? Thank you!

How to make this plane?

Wow

Absolutely good video but lighting bit bright couldn’t see clearly just wanted to say as enjoyed this not being to critical just wanted to say

Thank goodness for this video. I’ve had my Mujingfang for about a year and was never convinced I was setting it up correctly. Next is to buy or make a little mallet for the adjustments.

Very nice

Just got the smoother and loving it. I've had my eye on this one too. Thanks for the video!

So beautiful tool!!!

Nice. Cant afford, but one day. If I ever make some money, I shall

Hi Terry, Every time I flatten the sole of my smoothing plane, will the brass mouth slowly open up over time? Cheers

Qhat prevents the blade from cutting into the jig? I didn't understand much as your volume level is not good.

The sacred hand plane maternity ward, with the chief obstetrician doing what he does best.

ok what price and where in w a do i look and buy

That one great looking vice. Still use the plane you sent me on a regular basis. TY again it was a wonderful gift and I love it. Need a serious tester for it glad to help out. LOL Hey can't hurt to ask you just might need one. Thanks again.

Pulled the trigger and ordered one from one of your US dealers. Can’t wait to get it installed.

More molding videos please :)

I really don't agree. You don't plane standing up straight, unless, perhaps, you're making a plane. If you're planing a 6' oak board, you need to put your back in it. For the sawing, I rip in my leg vice, so the height of the bench has no relation to where I'm actually sawing. And if I'm doing dovetales, I do it in my Moxon vice. I'm 6'2" and my bench if the height of my knuckles.

Vielen Dank für die präzisen Informationen. Genau so etwas habe ich gesucht. Schönes Video! Beste Grüße aus Deutschland

The salient point of this presentation is the admission that the vise relies upon plastic bushings to function. The presenter says that extensive testing was done and the bushings did not wear out during this time period. The key phrase is “during this time period.” How about over the next 50 years? My used Record vise made in the 1940s and bearing the scars of heavy use, still works perfectly and will continue to work perfectly for the next 80 years. Nothing with plastic bushings and rubber seals can do so. It looks nice, but I don’t suspect actual working artisans will buy it.

These videos are awesome! Thank you!

This is what inwas looking for. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks Terry for this video. It was nice to see the process from log to finished product that my planes went thru…. David W

Good video Terry - and great vise!

Вы супер супер супе

It is usually the simple things which will elevate your tools and work to a new level. Take care of your tools and they will reward you with better results. You may even learn a lesson that you will carry forward to other aspects of your craft/hobby.

I like seeing new videos from HNT - been too long!

Do people notice that his blade travels almost exactly from the beginning and the end of the boards with absolutely no wasted motion? That's old school skills.

This may be confirmation bias, but this bench is what I want and has everything that I've been thinking of. It's uncomplicated, it's just designed to do everything you need to do highly efficiently. It doesn't have fancy joinery nor hardware, it's an effective and efficient tool. Nothing to fuss around with, nothing to break. Okay okay, it's got three Gordon Vises, but you can substitute these with anything else. Fantastic.

Thanks for showing snipe bill planes in action. 20 years ago I bought a secondhand half set of hollows & rounds, and it included a pair of snipe bill planes that I could not see any use for. Now your video has clearly explained when and how to use them.

Learned some good tips from you thanks.

Nice video and beautiful sunset, just one question: are you allowed to go willy nilly in the bush to cut down trees or did you have to get a permit?

SO THIS YOUNGSTER HAND BUILD'S ALL HIS PLANES N R NOT MASS PRODUCE 🤔🤔🤔🤔

my respect for you guys you make amazing tools

Basic problem is that truly low angle bevel up planes are not the best choice in wood. One can make pretty much anything work, but it is going against the grain. However wooden planes with bevel down geometry are pretty much the best design. I will get to that in the moment. Basically the argument in the video is based on the idea that wear in the blade of BU planes will stop it cutting earlier than with a BD plane. Let's examine that. How could one mitigate that: 1) I you are in Oz and you are using a generally higher angle plane blades, then as with some block planes base your BU planes on a 20 degree bedding angle. This will help with the clearance angle issue, and the structure of a wooden plane issue. 2) What the client wanted was a plane that would allow him to switch blades and get a variety of different results from the same plane. So mitigation 2 is that each of the blades is being used less and will wear less. If one is following instructions on power sharpening, then at the end of session, on could top up the blades, and then one will have a lot planing to do before multiple blades get dull. I gather that in OZ, even the cheapest softwoods are planed with a 60 degree bevel, but in the western world 45 is fine, and works great in a BU format. 3) There might be an argument for using HSS in a bevel up plane if wear is an issue. I prefer Japanese blades, or O1 blades, but with power sharpening, and in a situation where blade wear is an issue HSS is a good choice, of course they are not all the same. For instance Blue Steel is basically a HSS. Not terrible no mater how you use it. 4) Another option would be to have a BD plane for general work, and a BU plane for all the odd angles. If you live in OZ and all your planing is at 60-70 you apparently don't need a lot of angles. But conversely in the West, you mostly don't need high angles. WHY NOT USE A BU plane? Basically the fad of BU planes a few years back is based on trying to get newbies into a plane they will have better luck with. In many different respects. They are easier to cycle the plane though sharpening, no pesky breaker. Just all around easier to get working, and they are good enough for most planing the weekender will do. Bad luck for the companies that produced them, but shortly after they hit the market, another fad came along. A few newbies rediscovered breakers, and that was the end of the bevel up plane for serious work. Personally I don't like breakers if I can get away without using them, but properly set (very very near the edge) the are significantly better for a lot of the work people do on difficult grain and rowed woods. So far I haven't seen a bevel up plane that has a breaker, I guess it is possible, but It doesn't seem to be available Then the other point. Say you are buying a 500 dollar plane, not particularly reasonable to expect it to do everything. A 500 dollar plane is for people who are either experts or on that path, as well as people who just like nice stuff. If you want the perfect set-up, it is a series of planes that each do something unique where you just reach for the appropriate plane. It isn't going to be a great experience to spend 500 bucks and then expect that one plane to do everything. But woodworking can be a 70 year thing if you learned from a family member. Maybe spread the cost over a longer period of time, buy real tools, not a series of stopgap tool. It is at least an option.

You spent a lot of time explaining why bench height is so important and that was great, but a bit more time on how to calculate or set the bench height for the individual would have been welcome. Just my opinion

There should be a good center nut, then you can spin the vice open or shut with a drill driver. Yes the handle will flail, all you need is an extention for the drill. I have had the Tucker vise for a long time, and it has a quick adjust feature, but it is always a little jammed. It works perfectly in a dust free environment... It is worth wrestling with if one wanted to go from 0-12" (or whatever the max opening is. But it isn't worth it for the average move. There is no drill driver boss on the Tucker vise.

Wow.

Very straightforward and practical. Thanks mate,