He is my go-to expert for sharpening. Great couple of tips - thanks. I will be collecting tips for a future video.

I have a red one now as I misplaced this blue one. Three blue definitely looks better...

Thanks David...

I need another one now... my dog has chewed this one...!

I have the Hercules as well...That is not bad - a bit chunky though....

@MB_EDC I sold my Workchamp - it's too big as a multifunctional knife - this is "territory" of multi tools: Surge as a big one, SOG Powerpint(M size), NexTool mini Flagship(as S)+ Swiss champ(excellent multi- knife). 111mm Vix knives with 1-3 layers are enough for me.

@@ИгорьКурикша Agree. I have a Swisschamp and rarely use it...

Chezosvakia? 😂

Apologies...I do know this. Just reverted to the old name in error...

Fair point. I generally don't use the music. I have tried it a few times to give a different feel to the video.

@@johnbelmore1178 cool...

Thanks Dave

Thanks! And yes, great point about the burr.

93mm. Just under 3 & 3/4 inches

Great idea!

Thanks Kathleen!!!

Thanks Jason. As always...I really appreciate your support!!

This is a relatively cheap double sided diamond stone which is fine to use dry. The link is in the description. I have got a more expensive diamond stone to try out. Video due in a few week's time

Thank you. I am still learning myself...

Thanks for the tip. With a toothy edge... Does that mean you have to sharpen more frequently??

@MB_EDC not in my experience, both seem about the same, 🤔👍

@ Ok.. Thanks!

I wanna ask why you like that and what blades you like which on even though you said dont ask :D

I like the 600 dmt for harder steels like S110v, Cruwear, Magnacut, etc, but 1200 dmt for "simpler" steels like VG10, 12C27,and Victorinox,, etc,.. It's just my personal preference,, 😊 I've recently got the UKPK in LC200N, and as yet, it's brilliant, and hasn't needed anything other than a quick strop, but I'll probably go with the 600, and see if it performs well, which I'm pretty confident it will,,.. It's all a matter of personal preference, but narrowing things down to 2 stones and the 1micron diamond solution, on balsa, has made me a happy bunny,, Cheers,, John 👍

Thank you! Great idea for a future video...a little ahead of my skill level at the moment...

@@MB_EDC Understandable, theres alot of information to process and puzzle together before things make sense sometimes. But if you want a nudge in that direction; 1: Most common way this manifests is straight up that your knife doesnt get sharp, but it can also be seen as flat spots (good lightning above, sight down the edge) or a weird looking (incomplete, hazy, uneven) scratch pattern on the bevel since it havent either had time to apex properly or replace the scratch pattern from the previous stone. Best way imo to test for this is to look for a consistent burr, then strop a bit and test if the knife is actually sharp. If its not sharp off the first stone, the result is going to be mediocre at best later. Another tip is to listen to the sound, as when moving to a new stone it will be noisier than when the scratches are completely replaced by new ones. 2: Pressure we have spoke about before, and its usually directly related to a frustration of going at it forever and not raising a burr. This one you already did talk a little bit about in that too little pressure makes the stone not bite properly into the knife and you feel like nothing is happpening. On the other end of the scale, too much pressure would be when you either gouge into the stone or apply so much pressure that the blade slightly bends, which usually manifests in a "smile" pattern where the tip and heel is much wider than the middle. Sound is a big clue on this one too. 3: This one typically manifests itself on the blade as weird facets or uneven-ness (that a word? im not a native english speaker haha). It often looks like "wolf ears" or "elf shoes" as some in the community like to call them, or it can look like theres 2 edges on the same blade that overlap eachother. Another typical trait here is that the point doesnt actually get sharp, the tip should feel like a needlepoint when the entire blade has been in contact. 4: this ties a little bit into #3. If you "miss" your angle a couple of times but largely do it right, you will get weird facets on your bevel. If you consitently miss, it will be so convexed that its visible to the naked eye, which is a valid technique if you do it on purpose but if you dont, its a sign of inconsistency. If its taken even further, it may result in convexing the actual apex too, in which case it just wont be as sharp as it should - shaving hair for instance with a rounded off tip is simply impossible. Another sign of inconsistency Ive seen, is getting these little spots right above the bevel, or a fuzzy looking bevel shoulder instead of a crips and defined one. 5: Not really anything to diagnose here, but I thought I would mention that doing stropping strokes on a fine grit bench stone (usually the finest one you used to sharpen that particular knife with) can to some degree replace the need for a leather/wood strop. You do the same thing, but with much much lighter pressure and for a bit longer. It is viable, though it requires alot more practice and technique for the result to match that of a strop with compound on it. I do have bad experience doing stropping strokes on diamond plates spesifically though, I think they just bite too much.

@ Thanks. That's a good starting point for me to look into.

Thanks Jack. The angle guide helps me a little. I think a lot of it is practice and building the muscle memory. That I am still working on....

Glad you like it.

Not had a problem with the clip - but then it's always in an inside pocket

@ that’s why I still have mine, sans clip, it was clipped inside my pocket that day and not the outside of my pack where it used to be. My SAKs, Moras and Opinels have been razor sharp ever since I got this sharpener.

@thegospelofthomassunday8805 Glad you like it too!

@@raizt1596 Thanks... And I fully understand... I will get either the bladeless Leatherman Rebar or a non-locking version at some point. Then I can legally carry in the UK...

​@MB_EDC I see Muslims with machetes on the streets in the UK. They really arrest tou for a pocketknife?

@raizt1596 Not necessarily arrested, but it could be confiscated unless I can prove that I had a specific, valid reason for creating it. So I stick to non-locking slipjoints with blades under 3 inches..

You are the second person to say this. It feels right as they are fairly smooth.... I have not been been able to find any documentation to support this.

Thanks Andrew. Yes - TK was a great guest!

Same here mainly. I wanted to give the option for Alix SAKs fire people that do use them.

Thanks. I'll check out the Skillcraft

I get what you mean. I find this works well because of the elliptical shape.

Good point. I am looking at some folding scissors too for a future video. Less to risk getting taken by TSA when flying.

It's it 600? I have found it hard to get a definitive spec. I found something on Reddit saying 350 or 380 grit. Not sure I believe that either. Haven't seen anything from Victorinox

@MB_EDC trust me , it's 600 . For me perfect grit . Few pass on 600 and few on strop and you have crazy sharp knife always 👌🏻

@@Phyxsius_85 600 does make sense😁

I did a review of the pocket sharpener last year. I liked it, but this is the one I use for a quick sharpen. Do WORK SHARP mini sharpeners REALLY WORK❓ #edc #everydaycarry #sharpening kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKqUlmhmi6Z_q8U

@MB_EDC I think I've seen it.

Cool...

@@ArnoSchmidt70 Wow! They are a great knife/multi tool

Agree totally. Great for a quick touch up to a blade edge. I need to sort out a good mini strop to pop in my bag too.

I use it in hand too…this method is a little safer and easier if starting to use it. I don’t have many harder steels- but it definitely struggled with the 440c on my Boker Expedition Barlow.

@@MB_EDC​​⁠even with softer steels it takes a lot of “rubbing” to remove steel. I view the Dual Sharpener as a “on the go” sharpener. This is best done if you set up your blades at lower edge angles(10-12 dps) and when sharpening you create a microbevel 1-2 dps larger than the initial edge angle. Doing it like this it works relatively fast because you do not need to remove so much material. I do this for my victorinox paring knives as well

@SpartanJohns Great tip! Thanks

The rubber was a viewers tip. I use it on D2 blades and it works, just a little slower to sharpen than Inox. 12c27 blades sharpen easily with it. Thanks for the tip about keeping it steady. My cutting mat works well too… Stropping is really easy and is great to get a sharper blade. I have a couple of videos on it.

@@alphakakcmeddlakadoofahkii3362 I agree totally. The combination tool works well on the bantam and compact.

@MB_EDC I think especially on the Alox models, which prioritise compactness, it should be a given

Agree. It would be good to have a thicker combo tool for these - too match the thicker flat head/pry bar.

Definitely! Thanks for sharing!

Great combination. Thanks for sharing!

@@Orlosthedruid Haha... That sounds great....I think there has been a Harvester X - but it was a discussion made for a SAK collectors club....

Haha! Yes! One of my viewers put me into ít. It's a blue honing paste from Bolpol. Great for softer steels like Victorinox. It's available on Amazon in the UK. Not sure if it's found in other countries...amzn.to/3Cmda6F

@MB_EDC OMG! It's true. It really exists. Hats off to you 👏 ☺️

Thank you!!!😁

Thanks Dave! This works with most of my knives except this with really hard steels that need a diamond stone...