@williammoss1310, hysterical! Hey, thanks so much for watching the video and commenting. I really appreciate it! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!

@matthewharmer1656, thanks so much for the info. I have a couple of newbie questions for you. What is the anti-drain valve? Is that inherent within the Morgo plunger oil pump or something else? If the latter, where is it located? Hate to put another oil pump in it, as I just did that job and put a brand new Morgo pump in it... Will the rotary pump full ensure no more drainage from the oil tank into the sump? Really appreciate the info! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Thanks Again!

@sluggo562, hey thanks for watching the video! Collector plates aren't hard to get. You need to have another vehicle that is fully insured as a pre-requisite. You then need to fill out some forms and send them hard copies photos of your vehicle. Typically within about three weeks they get back to you either approving your application or letting you know what you need to fix / correct so you can re-apply. Here's the link to the application: www.icbc.com/vehicle-registration/collector-mods/collector-vehicles

Hi @recidivist11, this time I left it on the side stand for about two or thee weeks. I didn't realize you shouldn't leave it on the side stand. When I finished this ride I put it on the centre stand, so will be interested to see the difference when I take it for another ride this weekend. Thanks so much for the info!

@@MadTinkerman If your bike has good oil flow you get a lot of oil in the rocker boxes and when on the side stand it seeps past the valve stem seals

Thats from the mechanic i bought it from

@@ronniemcmurdo2016 interesting!! Sounds like a person should just about never use the side stand. Definitely going to use the centre stand much more often now. Thanks!

@jeffstites4052, Amazing!! Thank You so much!! I really appreciate it.

@allaboutkalergi5012, I'll take your good advice and store it on the centre stand from now on. Thanks so much for the info and advice!!

That is really interesting! I never would have thought that storing the bike on the side stand or running it on the side stand would have this effect. If it's as simple as storing the bike on the centre stand, that would be fantastic! I immediately put the bike on it's centre stand after shooting this video, so it'll be interesting to see what it does on start up next time I take it out, either this evening or tomorrow. Can't thank you enough for sharing your experience. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Thanks Again!

@ronniemcmurdo2016, thanks so much for this info! Who would think that simply leaving a bike on it's side stand for a couple of weeks would cause a problem? Not me :) When I brought it home after this video, I immediately put it on it's side stand, so looking forward to the next ride to see what happens. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to leave the comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Thanks Again!

@@MadTinkerman most welcome buddy, your videos are superb. Before i got my t140v, i had a BSA 650 Lightning, kept it on sidestand most of the time, and no probs with smoke. The guy i bout my Bonnie from was a local classic bike dealer, he mentioned to me about not leaving it on side stand or it would have this problem. I will conract him to ask the technical reasons, and get back to you. Cheers fae Scotland.

Hi @ronniemcmurdo2016, thanks so much for your kind words on the videos! I am no pro that's for sure, but giving it a go and trying. Really appreciate you reaching out to dealer buddy to find out what the technical cause is for this. I know there is a small hole between the primary section of the lower engine and the sump, but still a mystery to me about why the bike wet sumps on the side stand, and if it does, equally strange why its designed that way :) Wow Scotland!! Definitely on my bucket list to travel there as it has such amazing landscapes. Cheers back from British Columbia / West Coast of Canada!

@garycarrjr2884, thanks so much for watching the video and your comment! Yup, it was 'really' leaking. If you haven't already, please subscribe! I 'really' appreciate it :) Cheers!

A sticking valve will, but four valve is than the two valve at preventing wet sumping and if it does wet sump, leaving it on the side stand will cause it to blow smoke on the left side.

If it is not wet sumping, then how would oil be draining into the sump? It has a brand new Morgo oil pump.

@Segsy59, when you say 'sticking valve' I am assuming you mean an oil pump valve and not a valve in the head of the engine, correct? It has a brand new Morgo oil pump (this one: triumphbonneville.com/product/morgo-oil-pump/) so I know it's not the pump. Really appreciate the help.

@Segsy59, I fit this Morgo oil pump, purchased from Shropshire classics: triumphbonneville.com/product/morgo-oil-pump/ Should I have used a different pump?

Oil on dipstick at low level when not started for a couple of weeks, but comes back up if course after a few miles running. I really don't know if this is an issue I need to solve or is this just a quirk of running an old bike?

@richardcoxon8956, that's great that you have basically the same machine I do! Great riding bikes! My bike is wet sumping a lot. Oil wasn't even registering on the dip stick after sitting for two or three weeks. Way too much oil in the sump on start up. Weird because I have installed a brand new Morgo oil pump on it which are supposedly the best... Thanks so much for the comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

@richardcoxon8956, great question! Hoping someone out there will have the answer for us :) Cheers!

@FuriousGriffin, the CAN-AM is still a work in progress. The clutch is dragging big time, so before I work more on the 'potential' coil / stator issue, I am going to rip the clutch apart, clean it up and inspect it. The clutch drags so bad that with the clutch lever depressed fully rolling the bike will turn the engine over. I have reverted to my initial theory that the stalling issue is clutch drag. Either way, the clutch drag is an issue that has to be fixed, so going to tackle it first and then if the bike still stalls, I'll then work on replacing the stator. Tool many jobs and too much sunshine to get motivated :)

Hi @Canuklhead, hey thanks for watching the video! The tires are dual sport Kenda 270's. If you haven't already, if you could please subscribe, that would be amazing. Very much appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman thank you, yes i am subscribed. the kenda tires are the tires suggested for my 250 tnt however they are on back order.

@@Canuklhead thanks so much Man! Hopefully you won't have to wait too long for the back ordered tires. Cheers!

Hi @FuriousGriffin, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I am going to try to source a new stator coil as a first option. If that doesn't fix it, then I guess I'll look to replace the Bosch CDI ignition box. Based on feedback from yourself and others, the stator / coil is most likely. Apparently the CDI box on these units is pretty bullet proof.

@@MadTinkerman Awesome I hope it works man, def sounds like it.

this happened with my bike as well. replaced the coil. runs beautifully now.

@@Canuklhead did you replace just the charging coil or the entire Stator?

Hi @billwalsh3672, thanks so much! I am really happy with it too. Super functional and looks pretty good too. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!

Hi @jcreek3889, good catch! On my bike the old Amal's were running very lean. The worn pistons (slides) were allowing air to leak through and lean out the mixture. The replacement we did in this video to install new Amal Premiers fully resolved the issue. Thanks again for your comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!

Hi @neilpatterson458, thanks for letting me know you thought the audio was good. It's one of the hardest things to get right when doing a riding video, so really appreciate the feedback on this. In British Columbia we don't have MOT testing any longer. We used to have 'Aircare' which would test vehicle emissions, but that has also been phased out. That said we do have collector status insurance that is available for vehicles that are more than 25 years of age and in good condition, which reduces the insurance cost by about 80% of what it otherwise would be. I currently have five 'collector' vehicles and couldn't otherwise afford the insurance them without the program. £80 is about half of what it costs for collector insurance here though, so you are getting a very good deal, as it costs on average $200 or so $CAN. Your ride/spanner time matrix formula is pretty much spot-on; although with each passing job I naively expect the bike to continue to run perfectly from that point on :) Thanks again for the feedback!

@@MadTinkerman - Thanks for the response - interesting how different countries deal with older classic vehicles.

Hi @neilpatterson458, thanks so much for watching the video and for your comment! You're absolutely correct that the best way to run these bikes is to only open the right petcock and leave the left hand one off, using it for a reserve should the bike run out of gas. When I first obtained the bike and this is 'Part 1' video I frankly didn't know any better :) Thanks again for the input and advice, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!!

@@MadTinkerman - Yes I retired in April this yes and bought my T140V as I project to fill in time learning about how it works and how to keep it on the road. I have had many of the problems/ challenges you have shown on your videos - starting with a snapped clutch cable which has now resulted in me replacing the clutch with a Hyde 7 plate clutch - the 6 plate clutch was too heavy for me for longer rides. keep on making the videos and I'll keep watching. Neil

Interesting that you've had many of the same issues on your bike as on mine, and that we both have the 7 disc clutch mod, which definitely helps in a number of ways, not the least of which is how dang hard the original clutch / clutch lever is to actuate. Happy Riding, Cheers!

Hi @Brit_Toolmaker, thanks very much for your comments and input on this. Your idea to fashion a metal spacer is a good one, although perhaps not quite as easy as the spring method. I am still using the set-up I showed in the video and have put probably 500 miles on the bike since, and it still works flawlessly. That said, if ever it has an issue I am going to keep your great idea in mind. Thanks Again, and if you haven't already please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

Hi @user-se7vt5ow4e, my intake manifolds have ports on them as well. The ports on mine are not for a vacuum gauge but used to connect each of the intakes to each other. There is a simple hose from one intake manifold to the other. Hopefully this helps. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

Hi Kevin, the needle is a press fit. It essentially just pulls out and snaps back in. Suggest you get a magnifying glass to look at it closely and that should help you see how it comes out. If have issues or concerns though, let me know and I'll do a short video showing how the needle is removed and replaced. Also, if you need to purchase a new needle I find 'Needles4Jukes' to be a very good and reliable source of parts. www.needles4jukeboxes.com Also if you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!

Hi @jcreek3889, that is a very good idea!! I think an oil pressure gauge will likely be my next modification! Really appreciate the input. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman I fitted a combined oil pressure and charge indicator light from Improvingclassicmotorcycles and it is highly recommended. It’s not even noticeable when fitted and it seems like there’s only one left. You really should try it and maybe promote it on your channel (I have no interests in the the firm behind)

Hi @lesjones7617, appreciate the advice. I did that repeatedly. Also did the trick of putting it in gear and rocking it forward with the clutch lever in, but nothing would unstick it. I ended up taking the clutch apart and cleaning the discs, which worked and got it back to 'normal' again. Still wasn't happy with how hard it was to depress the clutch lever though so installed a seven disc clutch on it, and now it's vastly improved. I did a video on that too, so you might be interested in watching it. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate the assistance and feedback. Cheers!

Hi @johndavis6596, thanks so much! Yeah, that was a real weird one and took me forever to troubleshoot. Super satisfying though getting it finally resolved. Thanks again for the feedback! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Reallly appreciate it!

Hi @robbwells I used an inexpensive regulator from Amazon. Here's the link to the exact unit I used in the video to retrofit my machine: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FBCDNR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. The regulator works great and so far and super happy with it. Hope this helps and let me know how it works out! If you haven't already please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

@pleasantstrummer thanks so much for the kind words and great feedback! Great news that you've picked up a T140 as well and 'enjoying the ride' ! Almost as much fun to work on these bikes as it is to ride them! Thanks again for the comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!

Hi @louielouie-l6z, unfortunately I don't as these engines are quite rare. Typically what happens with these is that someone somewhere back in the past ran straight gas in the engine and scored the piston, cylinder and rings. If your engine has low compression, that is probably what happened. If your engine has good compression, then you likely just need to take the carb off, take it apart and give it a good clean. If low compression, my suggestion would be to take the engine apart and then carefully measure the inside diameter of the cylinder, outside diameter of the piston and view the general condition of both. Once you have those measurements you can then contact a piston manufacturer to either buy just new rings (if the cylinder wall is 'okay') or consider a re-bore at a machine shop with new piston and rings. Curious, whereabouts are you located? Hope this helps a bit and thanks so much for your comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman located in Oregon. I might take it to a local machine shop and see what they say. The guy who looked at it said it was a coated cylinder and couldn't be bored out.

@louielouie-l6z, well if that's the case, then I would source new rings and give it a really good re-honing. That should do the trick and be sufficient to get it running well. I am in BC, in a suburb of Vancouver. Best of luck with it! Also, just in case you're intersted here is a story Car & Driver did on the bike after I got it all fixed up: www.caranddriver.com/news/a42446769/1964-fuji-go-devil-auction/ Thanks so much for subscribing!

Hi @rm7581, you sure can! Assuming you have the same model as mine, here is what you you do: Remove the inner housing that holds the replacement line by pressing the two plastic tabs on each side and then prying up to remove the spool that holds the line. Once you have the spool fully removed, then you will see a hollow center shaft and at the bottom of that shaft is a little black phillips head screw. Remove that screw, ideally with a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver, and if you don't have one, then you use a standard philips screwdriver and carefully remove the screw. Once you do that the string head will fully come off. Hopefully this is clear. If not, then let me know and I can do a short youtube video showing you how to do it. If you have a different model of Makita they may remove differently. Let me know how it goes. Thanks again for your comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe (it costs nothing and is just a bookmark). Really appreciate it!

Hi @rm7581, you sure can! Here's what you do: Frist remove the spool that holds the line by pressing the two black tabs in and prying the top off the string head. Then fully remove the spool etc. At the bottom of the line head, with the spool removed, you will see a black phillips head screw. Removing using a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver, and if you don't have one of those then carefully use a regular phillips head (star shaped) screwdriver to remove it. Once you remove the screw the remainder of the string head will come right off. Hopefully this is clear, if not just let me know and I can do a short KZbin video to further explain and show how it is done. Thanks so much for your comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe (it's free and is essentially just a bookmark) Really appreciate it, and pop me another note to le me know how it works out. Cheers!

Thanks Buddy!

Hi @tpolskiii, thanks so much for your kind word and taking the time to leave a comment! Really appreciate the feedback. Yeah, you are totally right. Working on these bikes and keeping them going is part of the experience, just as much as riding is! Like you say, working on the bikes is weirdly enjoyable :) Especially so, when you get them fixed and get out on the road. Thanks Again, and if you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

Hi @johnpetermoeller4783, that's a great idea! Using a magnet to remove the clutch plates would definitely be easier. I'll keep this in mind for next time! Thanks so much for your comment, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!

Hi @Zulutime44, that's cool that you've essentially done similar to myself, changing out the low bars for ones with a higher rise. They definitely make the bike nicer to ride in my opinion. If I was 25 years old I might have a different opinion, but at this point I am much happier with the more upright riding position. Interesting that you found bars with a 25" span. Mine are 29" with 8" rise but 9" sweep back, or thereabouts so at the grips they are closer to 5" high, similar to yours. Great video by the way! I watched the full video and have subscribed. If you haven't already if you could do me the favour of subscribing too, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for reaching out and leaving a comment! Cheers!

Hi @DodgyBagehot, you're absolutely right about the clutch adjustment and works exactly as you have described. That process fully resolves the annoying 'clicking' that can occur when the clutch is maladjusted. Lunmad's videos are great and I have watched many of them too. Sorry to know that he has passed on, but he lives on his videos, continuing to provide great advice. The main issue I had other than just a stuck clutch was how hard the clutch lever was to pull combined with the engagement point being right at the end of the throw (when correctly adjusted). Both of those problems are now fixed. In this video I installed a 7 disc clutch with reduced the amount of force needed to pull in the clutch lever: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3i3YZKXft5gaqs Then I did a very easy modification to change the engagement point of the clutch (while still adjusted correctly), enabling the engagement point to move closer to the handlebar rather than at the end of the throw: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoeWnKudj6-grpI Can't thank you enough for your comment and for watching the videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman my 77 t140 had only 4k on it when I got it in 2019 , last registered in 1981. While the clutch had seized (of course), once I cleaned it up, the stack was well within spec. So I kept them. I have heard others say the clutch on these bikes is stiff, I have not found that to be the case. I wonder if different model years had different leverage on the handle. I did rebuild it, replaced the liquidfied rubber bumpers (whatever those are called) checked the rear thrust washer etc and lubed roller bearings. the basket needed a little clean up. I have found that if I don't clear the clutch an hour or so after a ride, it will get stuck. If rocking the bike in gear is not enough, you can always put it on center stand, start it up and put in gear, wait for it to warm up a bit, then ease on the back brake while holding clutch lever in. (Of course, keep front brake engaged, and weight forward to keep rear wheel up) In terms of operation, smooth shifting, no slipping, no clunks, I've had no problem with the original clutch plates. The trick of taking some pressure off the clutch by engaging clutch with a strap or something while it cools off might seem peculiar, but it is cheap. I'll run these until they are out of spec and then see what the modern materials are like. The original friction plate material looked like cork to me. Don't know.

HI @DodgyBagehot what a find! A 1977 bike with only 4K on it and not registered since 1981 is amazing and pretty much unobtanium if you were trying to find one! That's great that were you were able to save the old clutch discs by cleaning them up. By taking it apart and cleaning up the discs and clutch basket I was able to save mine as well and rode it for a while but the clutch lever was still quite stiff. I measured 43lbs of pressure (using an old fish scale) to pull the lever and, although not totally necessary as there was plenty of clutch material, I decided to swap it out. When I did the seven disc clutch mod I measured the old and new clutch plates with my caliper and interestingly the old clutch plates were a little bit larger than spec, which I found weird and I think that may have been the issue on my bike. The seven disc clutch are smaller than spec of course to allow for the 7th disc. Not sure if someone put the wrong fibre plates in it or if they were just manufactured poorly or what. In any event changing them out made a huge difference and now it only takes 17lbs of pressure to pull in the lever, so about 2.5x improvement and zero issues with the clutch sticking so far. I just clear the clutch before I start it each time by pulling in the lever and giving it a couple of kicks. For your bike with the original discs, apparently back in the day most guys put a rubber band or vise grips or something else to hold the clutch lever depressed after each ride, so that's probably the thing to do, although seemingly a bit weird, if it works that might be the thing to do with a bit of a nod to how it was done back in the day. Thanks again for the comment and have fun riding the great bike!

Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, great idea! I had some flat aluminum bar so made a tool out of that which worked well. The screwdriver idea would be more durable though so will keep my eyes open for one with a super wide blade. Appreciate the input. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!

Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, another great idea! Anytime you can include duct tape as part of the repair process, you should :) ! Thanks Again for the comment and the great idea!

Hi @mindysiefert, fantastic!! Great to hear you were able to fix your machine and that this video helped you out a bit! It's always super rewarding to tackle a job like this and fix it yourself. I really appreciate the kind words and taking the time to leave a comment. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it and thanks again! Cheers!

Hi @chrisbland8650, you're absolutely right the bike was missing at low speed and not running very well. In part 5 we take the carbs off and discover why it was running so bad and fix them up, temporarily, using Crest toothpaste ...that ones' worth a watch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppDQipeInLOHoas Thanks so much for the input and feedback! If you haven't already please subscribe, I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!

Hi @chrisbland8650, you're right again. There is no choke on this bike and it starts by just using the ticklers. Pretty common for Triumphs of this era to not have a choke although one could be fitted if chose. Thanks again for watching the videos! The bike is just about finished now. I took it for a ride a couple of days ago and just posted this video of how it performs after all the work we did on it. Let me know how you think it runs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYrVf2Sml6qBn5Y

Hi @joesutherland225, classic plates are awesome and is just one more reason to own an older classic bike. 1987 Yamaha Fazer is a dang cool bike too! Thanks so much for the comment!

@@MadTinkerman Burnaby kid live in powell river now .68 so old guy not getting to be .owned 4 triumph cars 1 68 gt6 3 tr8s wrecked one sold others .wish I hadn't .

Powell River is a beautiful area. Love the Sunshine Coast!

Hi @joesutherland225, not a GT6, sorry to say, but a 1959 TR3A. If you haven't already, please subscribe! I would really appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman did

Hey, thanks so much for the subscription! Really appreciate it!

Hi @p--n, its a great question and frankly not sure it is one I can answer other than to say that I think it would be totally fine given the great shape you have your 77 TR7V in. You'd probably want to stay at places where you can keep the bike under shelter though as the Lucas electrics have known to be potential areas of concern when they get wet, or so I have been told. Especially the kill switch. Other than that, I think it would be fine. I used to have a 1927 Chev Landeau (old car) that was in great shape but was always a bit concerned about taking it too far from home. Then I got myself an Automobile Association membership that included towing anywhere you needed to go within a 250 km radius (not just the nearest point of service) and that enabled us to take the car confidently on long road trips as long as we stayed within 250km of home. Not sure if there is some equivalent where you live but might you give you the peace of mind to go for it. I am sure it will be very rewarding if you do. Cheers!

Hi @jd6549 , here's the link to the video where I replace the old terribly designed Lucas brake switch with a reliable (and cheap) Honda brake switch cable: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4m4Zp56oqyXd7s I would really appreciate your feedback on that video too. I include the part number for the brake switch in the description section of that video. Thanks so much for your kind words about the bike and your interest in these videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Cheers!

Hi @recidivist11, thanks very much for the input on whether to keep the visor open or closed. Hard to know the right balance between voice quality and still being able to hear the bike. Congratulations on the '77 Triumph purchase!! These bikes are both fun to ride and fun to work on. I am sure you'll be super pleased with it. Happy Tinkering :) !!

Hi @stevenharrold665, thanks very the positive note of encouragement! I really appreciate the feedback and great to hear you are enjoying the videos. Cheers!

@chriscchristodoulou8955 thanks so much for the kind words and feedback, I really appreciate it! Glad to hear you're enjoying the Triumph videos!

Hi @radboo4384, hey thanks very much for the tip on the red hematite! Just did a quick google search on it and apparently it is no longer available, but the substitute is Hylotyte red. I'll definitely give that a try when I have the cover off next. Really appreciate it! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Cheers!

@@MadTinkerman saves pennies (gaskets)

Hi @radboo4384, you're right :)! They're perfect when they work :) Thanks very much for your comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it! Cheers!

Hi @TimBarwell, thanks so much for your feedback and for letting me know you enjoyed the video! I really appreciate it!! Cheers!