Trispark Ignition Installation - Triumph Twin T140v

[@Segsy59]

Fitting a four valve oil pump doesn't wet sump,but you'll need to shave a bit off from the inside of the cover. Your Fitting of the trispark looks good 👍.

[@MadTinkerman]

@Segsy59 does the four valve oil pump guarantee zero wet sumping? Wondering how it works differently from the regular two valve pump to prevent it? Less than six months ago I replaced the original oil pump with a Morgo two valve based on lots of advice from Triumph owners. Only want to redo this job if it would resolve the problem. Really appreciate the input and your thoughts on this.

[@brucebear1]

Hey, MT. Good video, with excellent descriptions on the details, yeah, it's a beauty there, eh? I'm a Commando guy but there are a couple of things that might apply for you. I had a problem with my Commando once -- the advance on the points locked up. It turns out that Lucas made some of the advance units with tapered threads. No big thing until someone is using the pointed advance unit pullers like you've got there, eh? With the bad batch of advance units, when you'd screw the puller tool in, it would go into the tapered internal threads and wedge the threads outwards enough for bulge the outer diameter of the inner shaft and jam against the slipping part (the part that's turned by the advance weights). If that happens, the advance is locked or at least stiff -- and this isn't good for your timing. It's hard to tell if this is happening by feel so the thing that fixes that is to screw the tool in until you feel the slightest tightness, then very lightly tap the head of the tool sideways. That will pop the taper loose. If your advance unit is OK, it won't hurt anything but if it's one of the bad ones, it will prevent the condition of locking up the advance*. Nice description of the wiring. A small point - the weight of the wires and connectors will be affected by vibration when the engine is running. This means that the wires (Black/yellow and Black/white) may have broken strands after a while and you'll either have a suddenly dead ignition or weird symptoms like misfiring. Two things an installer should do -- first -- use something like RTV or similar "removeable" adhesive to secure the connectors down on to the backplate; second, assure that the seal grommet is in place where the wires come through the engine case. Triumph assembled these motorcycles new with a plug seal in the cases -- they tend to perish with heat or one may just have been dislodged during service in the past. They're available from "Classic Triumph" parts dealers under part number -- (01.6065); if a bike has this seal missing, or if it's damaged or deteriorated, the wires can move around and chafe inside that drilling in the cases. It's a little thing that can leave you on the side of the road in the dark when the drizzle starts. And regarding strobe timing, I don't know how accurate the Triumph timing marks are but the Norton degree arc can be bumped out of alignment. It's always a good idea to check that the timing marks on the primary are accurate; this can be done by using a timing degree disc. Good plan to not use WD-40 on the gaskets holding the coils. WD-40 is made to be a water dispersant (it was the 40th formulation that they tried -- "WD-40"), there's only enough oil in the mixture to hold the water dispersant chemical in location. It's not really a good lube and it can be rough on rubber/soft plastic parts. Also, with silicone spray, you can get silicone spray where you don't want it; if it lands of painted parts, the silicone component will bleed into paint and -- if you need to repair a scratch or find that paint is wearing off - any repair paint you apply will not stick well to it. Far better is to get some "rubber lubricant", it was made specifically to not cause rubber to degrade (like anything petroleum such as Vaseline), they use it install rubber buffer suspension bushes on the car suspensions when these parts are pressed into metal bores. Once you realize how good it is, you'll find lots of places to use it to keep rubber and soft plastic bits in good condition. Oh, and the central fastener holding the original advance unit and the new rotor in place is a screw, as are the pillar fasteners. A bolt has an unthreaded shoulder portion under the head of the fastener -- if you ask a hardware stockist for a "bolt" in a place that's threaded for a screw, you might end up stripping threads without noticing. These are just little details that can make a TriSpark installation better. Thanks again for the great video -- many riders installing TriSparks will find it helpful! (* The bad ones were supplied by Lucas to BSA, Triumph, and Norton for use on the production line and many were also put into the spares chain. So, even if you're getting "NOS" spares, there's a chance you could be getting one of the tapered ones. They'll work fine until someone honks down on the taper thinking it's the right thing to do to remove the unit, then you run into a stuck advance.)

[@MadTinkerman]

Hi @brucebear1, thanks so much for the very detailed and informative response! Really great tip on how to correctly remove the advance unit. Now that I have the advance unit out I won't need to reinstall it or remove it again on this bike but that information will certainly be useful for other bikes going forward. I'll take your good advice and add a dab of silicone to secure the wires to the faceplate of the Trispark device so they don't rattle around, and also check the rubber grommet where the wires go through the case to make sure it's in good condition. Thanks so much for the part number. Your comment regarding the potential inaccuracy of the timing marks is very interesting. I am having an issue with the bike where it is backfiring when I try to start it through the carbs so wondering if the timing marks are incorrect and causing the issue. I'll do as you suggested and use a timing degree wheel to double check the marks. Definitely going to purchase some 'rubber lubricant' and add that to my workshops for similar situations where rubber lubrication is required. Appreciate the tip. Very much appreciate your clarification on the terminology of a 'machine screw' relative to a 'bolt.' I'll commit this to memory and do my best to use the correct terminology going forward. I really appreciate you taking the time to leave this detailed comment! I'm going to take your good advice on these points and really appreciate the help. Cheers!

[@johnhawden4118]

Ive owned Bonnies since the 80s, I still ride two 1972 Bonnies (one original, one special) regularly...you have a lovely bike mate...but watching tou start it on the centre stand made me cringe.

[@simonmarsden66]

I start mine with side stand down but not resting on it. If on centre stand it dances about too much

[@MadTinkerman]

@johnhawden4118, thanks so much for your kind words regarding the bike! Genuinely curious about starting on the centre stand. Curious, why doing that in the garage is particularly cringeworthy? :) Cheers!

[@snapon666]

Had the 79 T140 D US model with 2 into 1 exhaust..installed the pertronics in the 90's and never touched any part of the ignition since would even start with a really low battery ..You say yours is hard to kick ? or were you being factitious ? I used to reach down and start mine by hand

[@MadTinkerman]

@snapon666, firstly thanks so much for watching the video! That's really interesting that you had '79 T140D and found it easy to start. Mine is a brute. I weigh about 180lbs and can stand and put all my weight on the kick start and it doesn't move. I have to literally jump on it to get it to turn over at any kind of speed. The bike is in good condition with compression around 110 PSI on each cylinder and no compression release. Curious how you could turn your's over so easily. Did '79 have a compression release? That sure as heck would help. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it! Cheers!

[@snapon666]

@@MadTinkerman no comp release don't know what my comp was no smoke even on cold start and still hauled ass even 2 up I weighed around 260 but would just sit on the seat and use leg ..I wonder if there is a different gear ratio for the starter ? mine was long kicker like yours ??? subscribed

[@snapon666]

@@MadTinkerman after some checking online seems the comp ratio was all over the pl;ace from 7.4 to 8.6 ?

[@malcolmbennett3555]

Nice vid.....looking at similar ignition for my Norton Commando, whats the price range for the kit?

[@thra5herxb12s]

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