I suppose you could punch a hole out of the side plate before installing. Though most folks just peel off the side plate and discard when they want to try an elevated rest. Rest and plate material is pretty inexpensive, so very easy to replace. Could buy a second side plate when you buy your elevated rest just to have it on hand if needed.

We were all new to the sport at some point. Happy we could help clarify about pounds. Let us know if you have any other questions we can help with.

I believe you are referring to brace height (measurement from the string to the belly of the bow). This can have an impact on arrow spine needed, accuracy, shootability, etc. Each bow will have a recommended amount. Normally a bit higher, say 7.5 to 8 inches and up for recurves and takedown bows. With a 1-piece longbow liking more 7 to 7.5". These are general numbers, your bow manufacturer should be able to tell you better for your bow.

Those work as limb dampeners and will help with noise as well. They also provide some cushion if you hang your bow by the string on a peg vertically. Some are bulkier and help prevent brush from getting caught between the bow string and limb (they are called brush buttons). So they are not necessary, but they do provide a bit. For noise reduction, a string mounted silencer does more.

Do not apply heat to carbon. Carbon is not able to be straightened. I've always told folks, "carbon is nice as it is either straight, or it's broke. It doesn't have a third direction." Applying any level of heat to the carbon will weaken it, and lead it to breaking.

If just looking to target shoot, I'd suggest a 60" or 62" bow with 30# of pull. Light weight to be able to shoot for longer periods of time, but not too much weight where your form will suffer. As for what bow to go with, we have lots of options, but feel free to call us during the week and discuss with our techs and get you set up right.

The brass will not trigger the SideKlick.

Thanks. I know brass is non-ferous and won't trigger the magnet by itself. I should have written more clearly Do you know if the brass insert will interfere and prevent the steel tip from triggering the magnet?

I misspoke during the video. For 3-under I set it at 5/8" where with split finger I set at 4/8" (1/2").

It may be best to give us a call to work through it. If you have no arrow rest, shooting off the bare shelf, that can damage your bow, but also makes for a hard surface that can impact arrow flight greatly. As for the center serving, be sure to check that the string is on properly, the upper loop is normally larger than the bottom. Strings normally have more serving on the lower part (to help protect the string from string slap). Your brace height and nock point height may also be reasons to your high-right hitting. The serving material placement though is too small to make an impact on the limbs performance though.

We have all of our glue here: www.3riversarchery.com/buy/arrows/arrow-building/glues-tape It depends on what shafts you are fletching as for what works and does not. From there, it is a bit of personal preference. I've been using the Goat Tuff glue and accelerator a fair bit (as with the accelerator it goes so much faster). I am always fletching on an arrow wrap though.

Thank you for your reference sir..

I would suggest a 600 spine at 29" length. Assuming the 45# is at 27" that is.

We would be happy to help you find some upgrades for your gear. Please give us a call during the day at 1-260-587-9501 and we walk through some options to get you shooting at your best.

Correct, the string will have a top and bottom. The nock point sits higher on the serving section, so that helps make it easier to identify as well.

I misspoke during the filming.

Your draw length will impact the bow's draw weight, as for adult bows they are normally rated at a 28" draw, but will change 2 to 3 pounds per inch drawn either direction. Most bow weights for adult bows are 29 pounds at 28" starting out. Which is a fair bit heavier than what you have been shooting, but from what you described in your strength training, I'd suspect you could handle up to 40# of pull weight without much, if any, issue.

@@3RiversArchery thank you so much brother I hope my "dad" can get this for me. 🤝

What weight is your favourite? 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Sounds like hinges in the limb. Use a tool like a tillering stick (www.3riversarchery.com/bow-building-tillering-stick.html) and a tillering string, to set the bow at gradually increasing draw lengths (don't go past the bow weight you want or the draw length you are aiming for), and step back from the bow to view at it from a side profile. Some folks will have a wall with grid pattern on it so they have a reference point to see how the limbs are bending in relation to each other. As you get the drawing further back, you should see the hinges showing in the limb(s) that you can then shave material off to correct. We do have a good selection of books and DVDs that cover selfbow building to help with the process. www.3riversarchery.com/buy/books-dvds/dvds/bow-building-dvds Plus, always free to give us a call or send an email.

@@3RiversArchery I've watched a lot of videos of Clay Hayes making bows. I made a tillering tree stick out of a 4x4. I use a tillering string and the limbs look fine. I get the bow ready for a bow string and when I string the bow it looks funny. I pull on the string and one of the limbs breaks. String is 3 inches shorter than the bow nocks. I could be putting a hinge in the bow when I'm stringing it. Maybe the wood isn't dry enough? Strong until I bend it to string it?

Normally a recurve string has a larger upper loop compared to a longbow string. This allows for it to slide down the side of the wider limbs when the bow is unstrung.

There are archery shoots all through summer. It would be best to look in your area for local archery clubs to see if they have any weekend shoots. Feel free to give us a call and we can tell you about some of the larger shoots we know of (once we know where you live).

The bow show is www.3riversarchery.com/cairn-recurve.html

For the crimp on nock? It should fit flush so no edge sticks out, but I normally aim to the the crimped stop to be facing the archer. I have not tested too much though to say one way is better than another. If getting wear and tear on your glove/tab or scratching your face at anchor point, I'd suggest trying a different size crimp on nock to get it to be as seamless as you can.

You can find our web site here: www.3riversarchery.com/

If you give us a call we would be happy to help find the right spine, as some additional questions needed to answer this. We do have our spine charts here to help as well: www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf

We have a large selection of books here: www.3riversarchery.com/buy/books-dvds/books A few to recommend would be www.3riversarchery.com/traditional-bowhunters-handbook.html and www.3riversarchery.com/byron-fergusons-become-the-arrow-the-art-of-modern-barebow-shooting-book.html but we really do have so many we could recommend to you.

This is the Flemish twist style of bow string. It does allow for twisting the string while it stretches (which all strings stretch some). It is the best string style for using with string silencers (especially fur) as they can be put through the twists for a solid install.

Being left hand, heavy draw weight, and painted; it will not be a high demand bow. I'm afraid I could not say value for it without seeing more of it. If you can email us at [email protected] we can get you connected with people the buy and sell used bows.