My 30w radio shack desolering pencil with the red bulb works great

I actually had a similar issue with the same chips from AliExpress. They were rebranded something-or-other (can't remember now), I got a full refund and ended up using them for another project

Amazing! Can’t wait to see the final product!!!

I hope the border patterns don’t go away, it’s a good way to know that the computer is still doing a thing and not just hung.

What am I seeing? Is the DesTestSwitch firmware actually switching between MAX mode and C64 mode automatically, or are you using the features of that MaxSwitch cartridge to do so manually? I'd like to know if this version of DesTest can take advantage of the existing VersaCarts out there, that a user can manually switch between a C64 cart and a MAX cart. I already adapted a VersaCart to run the original DesTestMax and would like to re-use that if possible.

This is an awesome project. Matthew is a very intelligent guy. Thanks for sharing

First.

Yes a lot of Duratool stuff is complete shit and I have literally binned one of their heated syringe style solder suckers. Also consider the RS Pro desolder station which may be the same as something much cheaper (Katsu brand) but you get the RS warranty. It's also red which is nice.

I was lucky enough to find the Hakko on clearance at a Microcenter for $130 USD about six months ago. It was open-box but unused. Greatest bargain I've ever found. I've also owned the ZD-985. It worked quite well, but the build quality is much lower than the Hakko, and the ZD-985's gun barrel broke off after about one year of regular use.

Hi, great video. Where did you get the crimp connectors from please? I’m going to attempt this at the weekend.

A Pace De-solider station is the best of all time.

Retro electronics or just a freak show? This is crap you get from KZbin recommendations.

The trick with the Duratool (ZD915) is to let the gun properly heat soak. I very rarely get clogging, but then my desoldering station is turned on first. it's called forethought or the seven Ps. Worth the over £370 saving every time.

Thank you, VERY INFORMATIVE! :)

manual solder sucker combined with a pre-heat with a heat gun has worked for my occasional use for 40 years

I really dont know how to reprogram eeprom without programmer.... I mean after programming the eeprom and want to reprogram it with another games how can i do it witout removing it from pcb???

I've had the predecessor, the Hakko 808 for years now. Still going strong. Thanks for sharing!

I wonder how SC7000 Z compare to both of them.

I'm glad to not be the only person who can't stand the toastrack keyboard. The depressions for the fingertips are off-center, and there's no stabilizer bar on the shift and enter keys. It makes for a bad typing experience, especially when programming in 128 BASIC. I agree, the Amstrad machines make for a better 128k experience.

Yep as previous post points out, - just like every other video ive seen on these type guns they complain about how hard it is to remove the tube, but apparently NO ONE has read the instructions as its MUCH EASIER to HIT THE BUTTON OR LEVER, THEN PUSH THE TUBE BACK AND LIFT IT UP AND OUT THE (((FRONT-!!!))) - PER THE INSTRUCTIONS-!!! MUCH EASIER, GET A CLUE PEOPLE-!! This guy actually sanded the dam tube instead of reading the instructions and doing it right-!!!

Hakko is worth the money. Lasts longer, works better, less damage to devices under repair.

Mine has none of the cons here it’s a beast says Metcal on it nice video your enjoyable to watch and you learn stuff like buy once cry once

This was a old board pretty sure they used leaded solder hows it work with lead free probably the same but you might have to heat longer or hotter to find that sweet spot, you were right everyone has a method this was cool

i had the VEVOR S-993A $100 just like the one you are showing it lasted 3 weeks when the temp control went and it over heated and started glowing RED HOT got the Hakko FR301 and its a tank!

If you are going to get the 5 volts perfect, I would think you would measure it at the computer end under load.

Bearing in mind the Japanese spec 100V FR301 units can be had online for under £200, have you ever had your unit apart and if so, did you note if the motor and element was running at line voltage and also what form of voltage dropper was used on the control board?

I'm not convinced. For a good desoldering tool you must look at this three things: short (the shorter, less clogs you have) and girthier (the girthier, more thermo mass you have) heating element, suction power and a modular built to be serviceable, like a desoldering station (desoldering gun + station). I think you are better and far cheaper with a YIHUA/WEP 948. But in my opinion, the best professional grade and maybe even less than half the price of the Hakko is the QUICK 201B desoldering station. You can even mount Hakko parts on it ;)

Thank you for this handy video and the heads up on the "Instructables" Pin error. It seems the Female Joystick Controller connector was shown; while the project uses a Male interface connector, which has to match up in the final connection. I think your operational glitz problem was a result of using connectors for the Pico Pi Board connect. The bulk of that addition likely jammed up the reset button; as noted by others. The original direct wiring guide was more compact; nicely helps hold down the Pico; and keeps the switch in the clear.

Great tutorial ... you've inspired me to have a go at making one of these for myself👍

Just out of interest, did you measure the 5V rail at the A600 side? I tend to set my PSUs up a few percent to compensate for the cable drop, but I wonder what the drop is across these original cables.

Use the manual tool for unfrequent job...

Have a look at Dave Poo's PCB that can be used to safely mount a Meanwell within the A300 styled PSUs. Gerbers freely available.

Great Video!

9:16 So after explaining how crimps are the ultimate solution you twist and screw the 240v wires? Crimp some forks to those mains cables please.

you should crimp fork connectors onto the wires that connect to the meanwell, putting stranded wires under screws is asking for trouble.

Great Job Lee! And by the way: I bought that Hakko desoldering gun AND tips 😀 But not to replace my ZD-915, but in addition, here in Germany we like to say: having is better than needing 😄 Greetings, Michael

for that medium psu case, if you have a 3D printer, you could print a spacer to sit between both case sides to give some extra space to fit the board.

Plus the Meanwell auto-switches between 240V / 120V. Made mine nice and easy to "convert" to US power.

Put simply, a great video! Naming the parts and price was a great touch, makes the project accessible to anyone.

There's a nice 3D printable case for the meanwell on Thingyverse, I printed one for my Amiga and Meanwell PSU.

personally i think if the originals are checked/serviced, theyre as good and reliable as modern ones, in some cases may be better than some cheap n nasty ones.... that A600 one you opend up uses a circuit very similar to many crt tvs in the 80s, devised by siemens, i think, and is generally very good but subject to chain reaction blow ups if a fault develops in the chopper transistor drive circuit, as for it overvolting and kiling the computer, very unlikely , those resistors that get hot are probably under rated, i have an A500plus version of this psu to service sometime, i also have a 'heavy' version with mains frequency transformer, feeding a low voltage switching step down circuit, again if checked and serviced, i'd say they'd be very reliable, certainly much better than c64 psus...

You need to be careful with these MW power supplies as they have a minimum expected current draw. For example, in the data sheet shown in this video it has a minimum of 0.4A for 5V and 0.2A for the 12V. While this will be fine for the 5V for an Amiga, the 12V line may not draw the 200mA. You may need to measure it. I believe the 12V line is only used for sound, floppy and RS232 serial.

One of theses killed my amiga 500 soo it's a must upgrade

I’ve a few power supply’s I need to sort out so this was handy

Hmm, that linear PSU type is as reliable as you will get. Those "hot" resistors can be upgraded with ceramic one, and usually the things that go wrong with those are filter capacitors and regulators. It is cheap and simple. Also, the chances of "frying" stuff are slim to none, as these components short when they fail, meaning no power output. The PSU you are replying it with is a modern pwm type. Nothing wrong with those, very efficient, very safe... but they won't last 30 years! Nor will they be serviceable. So... not sure I'd agree to doing this to ALL old computers... "keep it original if it's not broken" may be my Approach

I love how neatly and safely you've done this. I've never used those crimps but I do have really similar ones that you don't crimp, they're solder in the middle and glue

Nicely done. For the slim power supply cases, the RPT-60B fits well... these do have push fit connectors on them though, but they are easily desoldered and the wires soldered into the pcb. Made properly, soldered wire joints are very strong. I tested this out once by soldering two pieces of wire together, and then standing on one end while pulling the other. The wire itself snapped before the joint did!

What's all this then? XD But seriously, I thought C64 power supplies were bad and C128 and Amiga power supplies were ok, with the C64 failing into an overvoltage vs the C128/Amiga failing into an undervoltage?

I got a new PSU for my Amigas. It has over and under protection and a screen that shows the voltages. They cost a lot more now than when I got it. A good PSU can help alot. I might make one of these ones later are you going to up load the PSU stand offs.

Nice one Lee, and a nice shout out for CommodoreLad. Miss his posts since I left Twitter. If you do figure out how to make the older heavier PSU cases work, please to make a video. While mine is working fine for now, I would like to upgrade it to a modern PSU.