enjoy your videos. Question,instead of welding up the plates, why didn't you just but some channel ? would have be faster and also eliminate the issue of welds would of had nice radius inside flanges that added to strength. Thanks again for sharing your adventure
@SailingSVLynx10 сағат бұрын
We could have, though it wouldn't have matched the width of the five boards as nicely. Next time I build a boat I'll look into that though ;)
@SteveCockneyRebelКүн бұрын
A KitKat
@SailingSVLynx22 сағат бұрын
Maybe I should paint her chocolate brown?
@paulnorris4054Күн бұрын
Great synopsis of the possible helm tradeoffs. One item I find irreplaceable is a handheld remote at the windless. I have KE4 engine controls. But any type - even fixed would do!
@SailingSVLynx22 сағат бұрын
Agreed, that would be nice!
@johnlove4183Күн бұрын
Such good progress. Have you considered a bypass oil filter on the main? it would give you extra level of filtration and you can locate your filters for for convenient access.
@SailingSVLynxКүн бұрын
We had not considered that before your post, but now I am. After reading up on them on some boat forums, they sound like a good modification. Thanks!
@johnlove4183Күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx The extra filtration sure seems like a win, as does the ability to locate them conveniently for service. I'm looking at the AMSOIL system for my boat.
@tommussington83302 күн бұрын
I would think that "decoupler (clutch to me) would have a pilot bearing to keep everything concentric just like a manual clutch in a car / truck
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
Interesting thought.
@tommussington83302 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx Sterns E series have pilots in them if I remember correctly they are spring set (read fail safe for your application) and energize to release.
@michaelm26833 күн бұрын
Just make sure you have the width you need to bring appliances (or anything wide that needs to be onboarded)
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
The only pieces of equipment that go in the hulls are the batteries, electric motors, diesel engine, water heater, and washing machines. Of those, only the diesel is wider than the hallway, which is why it is going in now.
@morgananderson96473 күн бұрын
Good stuff!
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@rusty77203 күн бұрын
Those steel bracket engine mounts look way to light for my liking. ,I would prefer them to be 1/4'' plate.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
They are fine. They don't need to hold the weight, that's what the wood below is for, they are for the welded on nut. In truth, they aren't even needed, they are just overkill.
@1littlelee3 күн бұрын
The decoupler is a major snafu, they should have tested it before offering it, its clear that they either didnt test it
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Yes, but it was a simple mixup, they modified the design and mistakenly put the wrong part in my shipment. We all make mistakes, it's how they deal with it that matters and they are making a new part and air shipping it to me.
@forresta653 күн бұрын
there isn't a machine shop close that can just do a quick turn? there is everything in LA lol.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Not one that does small jobs without charging an arm and a leg.
@forresta653 күн бұрын
i am impressed with how much you try to be as efficient as possible. Brian is mixing epoxy, could be a drinking game. Sorry Brian.
@briantasse52573 күн бұрын
Hey, no drinking without me! 🤪
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
😜
@alexdieudonne19243 күн бұрын
Cant you turn down in the lathe the couple joiner to fit? Great work.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Yes, if I had one, but Combi is replacing it.
@klkayaker3 күн бұрын
Wy not have a local machine shop make the modification to the hub?
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Because Combi is replacing it for me, free of charge.
@allanfamily42143 күн бұрын
Excellent work here, the satisfaction you will get from sailing a boat you have made yourself will be even greater than buying one, and I would argue yours will be better made than a lot of the production boats out there, KZbin littered with warranty woes of many sailors having bought brand new boats that should never have passed quality control.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Thanks, we will appreciate our boat even more having sweated to build her!
@charlesc.67673 күн бұрын
If you have ever been in a severe storm in a boat where it is breaking apart and you think maybee your not going to make it , ( I have scariest time ever ), You can really understand the need to strengthen the motor mounts , stringers ,bulk heads . Great job.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Thanks, better safe then sorry.
@clarencenew8813 күн бұрын
Sounds like repairs to drive unit is going to be a major job.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Yes, but Combi is taking care of us.
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
I don’t understand 2 things. 1 why you formed the motor mounts with pieces of wood vertically? that wood grain direction is not great for your use. 2 why you didn’t wood glue all the pieces of wood to each other before glassing? I think a solid 6x6 or 8x8 cedar post, that you then molded would have been a better cedar option. But I’d probably use a harder wood like Purple Heart or something.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
All boards were glued together with epoxy. The wood we choose was by the boat design.
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx ok so you want to use cedar because they told you to. And im glad the boards were glued together, I didn’t see or hear you talk about doing it in the video. However As a woodworker, Stacking the cedar in that orientation they will be prone to splitting. I know you put a ton of bolts through them and even through them and the metal plates to prevent splitting. You did some belt and suspenders, plus the glass, you shouldn’t have issues. But even if you couldn’t use a solid piece of cedar it would’ve been better to stack horizontal rather than vertical. It’s just wood grain physics. Something to store away for a future project.
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@jonblair5470 As you said, glassed in, they are not going anywhere. But, there are plenty of examples of this vertical orientation in the plans for other areas that take even more stress. I can't tell you the details of these high stress areas, because some of the design is proprietary information, which they have expressly forbid me to detail in these videos. But, if you know boats, you know where the most stress is and there they use vertical western red cedar boards again. I appreciate your concern and your knowledge as a wood worker, but when it comes to building a Schionning Catamaran, with their safety record and industry acknowledged strength of boat design, I have to go with the 35 years of boat building expertise from Schionning Designs. We will continue to follow their plans.
@jonblair54709 сағат бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx thanks for the info, I think you will not experience any issues with this design, especially with all the extra measures, bolts and glass ect., I was just wondering why while watching. Thanks for your responsiveness, it helps your audience, as well as really benefit your videos ranking!
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
I would not glue/epoxy in the boards without them attach to the motor or a frame mockup that has the same dimensions. If your bolt holes are off by a millimeter, you will have problems.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Which is why we put them on the engine first to lock down the positions, then, while gluing them down, put on the Combi metal frame (which matches the engine holes exactly) while the mounts were setting up, so they won't be off a millimeter.
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx yes, by doing that you made sure each block of wood would mount to the motor. But if you install each block of wood independently in the boat and their not fixed to each other by the motor or a frame of exact size and bolt holes as the motor, then those 2 separate blocks of wood could be installed just ever so slightly misaligned. Whether by height or parallelism or cantering, you will end up with issues installing the motor. Especially since you did the permanent nut, which gives 0 room of error and you decided to glass those blocks of wood before installing, so now it would be a pain to trim or modify it.
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx basically by installing the blocks of wood while the motor is attached, the thickened epoxy under the blocks of wood can fill the imperfections and ensure those blocks of wood are in the right place. Then once set, lift the motor back out, tab and glass the blocks of wood to the hull, then reinstall the motor.
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@jonblair5470 Ah, no. I think you keep missing the main point. The motor mounts are fixed to a frame of the exact size and bolt holes as the motor. That is what the Combi metal frame is, which mounts directly to the same motor mounts as the engine. That's why we don't need to mock up a simulation, we have the exact bolt pattern in a steel frame. We attached that frame to the motor mounts which are on the blocks, which means they are exactly in the right place. This was done as the epoxy was setting up. Therefore, the engine will fit on to the bolts to the millimeter.
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@jonblair5470 Again, no need, since we have a steel frame with the bolt pattern installed on the motor mounts as they were glued in place.
@Daven-ni4xu3 күн бұрын
Why soft cedar for motor mount purple hart hard wood better?
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Weight. And... that's what the plans call for pretty much in all wood applications of this build... all Wester Red Cedar. We stick with Schionning's plans for most of the build (and only make changes with their approval). They have 35 years of boat building experience, with over 400 boats built. We are on our first. ;)
@uowebfoot3 күн бұрын
Couldn't find a local machine shop to modify that part with a metal lathe?
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Nope. All the local machine shops won't take any one-off custom work. We have to do everything ourselves, or with the help of friends.
@ApprenticeGM2 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx That sux - I was going to suggest the same thing. Down Under we have "Mens Sheds" (which are a voluntary org to help men) with lathes you can use or pay a volunteer a pittance to machine parts like this. What about local-to-you boat yards - any of them have a lathe to machine it down? They'd do a bit of custom one-off work I would think (or might have a connection to a machine shop that'll do it). Good luck!
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@ApprenticeGM If I looked hard enough, I could find a place. But that work would cost me hundreds of dollars, when Combi is replacing the part for free.
@ApprenticeGM2 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx fair enough - our men's shed option is like $20! :)
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@ApprenticeGM Machine shops won't even talk to me for less than a $100, let alone do any work!
@robinengland57993 күн бұрын
More great progress and problem solving this week. That engine drive train sure takes a lot of critical thinking in advance. Glad y’all have it sorted out.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Thanks 👍
@Seansousa7573 күн бұрын
I can promise you that thin metal is not nearly robust enough to last. Add to that you are encasing it in fiberglass which is a recipe for disaster as there is no way to maintain them to keep rust free. The only proper way to add those is to fiberglass you engine beds, then add at least 1/4" plate into a channel, like you did, then over drill and fill the bolt holes that you bolt the engine mounts to the beds with. Welded nuts are fine fir the mounts.
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Well, you can predict, but you can't promise. :) However, since they will be completely encased in glass, I don't see any problem with rust happening since moisture can't get to the metal. We're not worried. If encasing something in glass didn't protect it from moisture, than we are in much bigger trouble since they entire boat is made of foam and wood encased in glass.
@jonblair54703 күн бұрын
I have to agree, that skid plate is not a structural type of metal. It’s designed to be sacrificial. And definitely prone to rusting. Before install I’d recommend at least 1/4” plate
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
@@jonblair5470 See reply above. As for sacrificial... I don't agree. The normal design is for the engine mount to land on glass over wood. This will be much more durable with glass over metal.
@flutetubamorg2 күн бұрын
I have to agree with the others. The plates may be enclosed in fiberglass, but the engine mount bolts are going straight through to the plates and welded nuts. There is a definite connection to the outside, and in the salty evirons of the engine compartment, not to mention the extra electrical fields being generated from the motors, corrosion will occur and the first part to fail will be the welds of the nuts. I think some high quality stainless or even inconel would be a more appropriate material for this application.
@SailingSVLynx2 күн бұрын
@@flutetubamorg The bolts, nuts and threads will be well treated and sealed to keep moisture out. Check back in ten years or so of the boat being on the water and we'll see who is right. If steel were that much of an issue, the steel bolts for the motor mounts on boats would rust and fail all the time. And, if you say that they do, then I say, our system lets us replace the bolts much easier than the permanent ones in the original design. We're not worried about this in the slightest, and this is how we are proceeding.
@normanboyes49833 күн бұрын
You are dealing with a complex installation that’s for sure. But you do seem to be ‘going round the houses’ - why did you not build a lightweight space frame simulator which captured the key dimensions - engine mounts - output shaft - motor mount etc? Great progress though (and I am now up to date 😉).😀👍⛵️
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
Mostly because we already had the Combi bracket that gave us enough of those things That's why we didn't have to lower the diesel in to check the mount positions.
@normanboyes49833 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx OK but the simulator would have also come into its own for aligning P bracket and line boring for stern tube - onto the target.😉
@SailingSVLynx3 күн бұрын
@@normanboyes4983 Instead of a simulator, we'll attach a laser on a 3D printed part right to the engine and let it set the angle of the shaft. The real thing is better than a simulator.
@holisticaustralia4 күн бұрын
Far out! The suspense, and I thought I was dodgy 😅 mat3 there was some devine intervention happening here 🙏
@SailingSVLynx4 күн бұрын
Whatever it took!
@petrpodobsky70056 күн бұрын
You should use steel roller over the glass ...
@SailingSVLynx6 күн бұрын
We do, at times. But there is nothing magic about a roller. It just pushes bubbles to the edge and evens out epoxy. It also removes excess resin. This can be accomplished with anything that applies pressure and moves towards the edges. When we pre-wet out two layers, we already even out and remove excess resin, so all we need to do after that is smooth out any bubbles.
@petrpodobsky70055 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx I can see a lot of voids just from the video. White paces, air gaps. Especially with biax glass you should use steel roller properly othervise you will get easy delamination. I used to be proffesional composite boatbuilder ...
@SailingSVLynx5 күн бұрын
@petrpodobsky7005 I don't know what you think you are seeing in the video, but there are no voids or air gaps. Make sure you aren't looking at the peel ply.
@petrpodobsky70055 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx Believe me I´m able to see the difference. I do not want to make you angry. Just would like to see the better product. Ideally you shouldn´t see any white fiber in the fiberglass and it should be sucked to the surface. To achieve this it takes a lot of work with the steel roller unfortunetelly and other circumstaces like right amount of resin and right resin viscosity.
@holisticaustralia6 күн бұрын
So Sorry to hear of the challenges you guys are facing, I am resisting moving forward in the series, the intrigue does add to the content quality, unfortunately, every cloud has a silver lining, you guys are obviously up to the task, all the best 👍
@SailingSVLynx6 күн бұрын
Thanks, we'll keep moving forward, even if we take a step back now and then. :)
@holisticaustralia7 күн бұрын
Hey guys, I'm enjoying your series, I don't know where your up to yet but I thought Imwould share my bottom paint, I use Wattle, I found th8s product whilst doing research for my own boat, there were major brands that were suggested to me, very expensive as you know, I read that wattle was being used on cargo ships and it was half the price of the major players in the market, I did mine about 4 years ago, as my boat dries out I can give the bottom a clean regularly, it is not a hard ablative, nor is it soft, it's in the middle, the bottom of my boat is still clean, I am just very careful when I clean the bottom not to be too aggressive, the only thing I have to worry about is stepping on my resident sting ray that follows me around while I clean. All the best, I can't wait to see the finished product, kudos to all your helpers too, you have a great crew... God Bless 😊
@SailingSVLynx7 күн бұрын
Thanks so much for the recommendation, we appreciate you taking the time to write. However, we already applied Coppercoat.
@billyboyblue177 күн бұрын
Paul, I am going to call your design PURE GENIUS!!!! That is the most genius rain catchment system that I have ever seen on any craft. Nothing sticking up in the air like fiddles on a monohull. Making multiple functions on a design is the goal of any engineer, and by golly, you have done it!
@SailingSVLynx7 күн бұрын
Thanks, we appreciate your comment, but the name is Phil 😉
@holisticaustralia8 күн бұрын
Wow you guys did so well, I am really enjoying the build so far, great work team 👌😉 Thankyou for the education and entertainment 🙏
@SailingSVLynx7 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching, we're glad you enjoy the videos.
@R.E.HILL_8 күн бұрын
Coming along very nicely.. surfaces most exposed to the sun.. no need to to cover up for uv protection? Anyways, looking forward to your next video..🙂👍
@SailingSVLynx7 күн бұрын
We're going to deal with that soon.
@sergueiothonucci16389 күн бұрын
😃
@normanboyes49839 күн бұрын
Really enjoying this epic build series and it has taken me around three weeks to binge watch and get up to date with this latest published video. You have and are doing an excellent job and just keep on getting it done.😀👍⛵️
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Thanks... and now your comments will be even more useful since we stay nearly up to real time on these videos. The day we finish shooting footage for the week, I start editing for the video release.
@normanboyes49839 күн бұрын
@@SailingSVLynx Additional comment. Hope you are going to make a lightweight space frame to mimic the mounts and output coupling accurately? It is well worth the effort (and will only require minor adaptation for the other hull).👍
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
@@normanboyes4983 We took the time to cut a reference board first from other material, before starting on the mounts. And, as you will see in next week's video, we checked the accuracy six ways from Sunday to make sure these are exactly correct. It is a critical element of the build.
@normanboyes49839 күн бұрын
Racing ahead.😀👍
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Progress is good!
@normanboyes49839 күн бұрын
Sometimes you just have to get things done -and you got it done. You chose a good non windy day which would have certainly compounded an already ‘ambitious evolution’. Well done to the team for playing their part in one of the most memorable balancing acts of their lives.😀👍😉
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Yeah, it was a nice 'no wind' day, we didn't need to add to the already drama filled job!
@patrickschiess16609 күн бұрын
The Schionning way with a bolt bonded in the engine stringers has its inherent problem that one cannot slide the engine forward (away) from the transmission. First one would have to lift the engine over the stud and then slide it. This is risky and might damage a "threaded stud". In my case the builder used lag bolts to hold the engine mounts, and also used lag bolts to bolt down the Sail-Drive units. Since an engine compartment will get wet or even might get flooded, lag bolts are in my opinion not suited! People used Sikaflex and M3-5200 products trying to seal the lag bolts so that there is NO water and NO moisture going down the bolt into the red cedar wood. On my Schionning most bolt holes were rotten, 8 Engine bolt holes, and 16 SD bolt holes. This was cause to rebuild both engine/transmission beds. My remedy was to to machine some SST T-nuts, make fiber glass bushings and bond them in the proper coordination into the cavity, then laminate 3mm uni-glass over it. Now guarantied that no water gets to the wood, one can slide the engines away from the transmission and its "bombproof". The last thing one needs in heavy seas to have an engine come loose and become a wrecking-ball inside the compartment.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
We agree! In fact, we ditched the lag bolt idea and came up with a new way to bolt it all together, which you will see us design and manufacture in the next video. :)
@gunnarfernqvist48969 күн бұрын
Interesting to see that you have to cool the epoxy while we here in sweden has the opposite problem with keeping the epoxy hot enough.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Yeah, that is different! We hope to visit Sweden on S/V Lynx in the future, we maybe we'll see you up in the Baltic!
@gonesilent28149 күн бұрын
with the black mount on the diesel engine for the electric drive make sure you can still unbolt the starter or any other parts bolted to block for servicing.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
We checked all that, good to go!
@billyboyblue179 күн бұрын
I hate to say this because I feel for you in your setback, but you live in California so you get the stupidity of the government of California.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
This is just a city issue, with city ordinances, it is what it is.
@clarencenew88110 күн бұрын
Try a scarf joint.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
We did, but that was months ago now, the forebeam is all done.
@dc154410 күн бұрын
that is a lot of work for motor mount bolts. We used Lag Screws into fiberglass. They hold and so much easier. A little fresh epoxy when adding lag screws holds it even on 600 hp engines running at 7000 rpm's. So in your design the 4 outer screws would be lag screws as long and thick as you can. I would also extend those plates an inch in longer in each direction to get more stable results.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
We did extend the plates out further, but we also changed the design some as well to get rid of the lag screws. You'll see what we did next week :)
@nhreef10 күн бұрын
Shout out to the Wynns 🎉. Great job h3re I always dreamed of building one of these... emailed them years ago about moving the helm around to where you have 😂 still,can't afford it though 😂😂
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Yeah, it took me 15 years to save enough to start this project. The good news (if there can be good news about waiting 15 years) is that they came up with the Solitaire 1490 in that time, which was very close to what we wanted. Then, we just modeled up the changes to make the 1520 and Schionning agreed to make that new model kit!
@floydgraves399710 күн бұрын
Wow!!! You accomplish a Lot this week. I love how you are “Forward Thinking “ with as with regards to possible future problems, the motor mounts. The designer will hopefully incorporate those changes in the future designs. Keep up the Good work.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Thanks! It's hard to say if Schionning will adopt our change, they have been making their boats for a long time, so they are probably happy with their current system. However, we made some additional changes to what we are doing, you'll see next week.
@charlesc.676710 күн бұрын
I like the fact your thinking ahead on the fuel polishing, Your planning is on , Its been about 15 yrs ago i had a guy clean my tanks and polish my fuel in san diego before Heading to east cape cabo our first load of fuel heading south in Ensanada was contaminated, I was going down cracking the cock on bottom of the raycors every hour for the next 3 days while on the run , luckily i had the clear racors and could see the water and dirt as it filled the bottoms and knew when to crack them open to drain.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Yeah, you can try not to get contaminated fuel... but you never know. We just want a way to clean the fuel in case that happens, though we will do our best to buy at reputable sources.
@ElleKendra10 күн бұрын
As I don't believe you've painted that cabin top, I might gently suggest, if you haven't already done so, getting a tarp over it to protect your fiberglass from UV degradation while you finish your build. Even as little as one summer can have a nasty longterm effect.
@SailingSVLynx10 күн бұрын
We plan to do that very soon.
@dnomyarnostaw10 күн бұрын
Did you consider thick gauge aluminium for the mounting plates? Four less lumps of rusty steel in the bilges 😂
@SailingSVLynx10 күн бұрын
Yes, but we went with steel since it will be completely encased in fiberglass.
@andypandy95510 күн бұрын
Fantastic work. I went for a walk along the harbour in La Rochelle today there are a number of companies in La Rochelle building Cat's of a similar size and they gave me an idea what you are building. Beautiful boats. I am looking forward to next weeks video and hope all goes well too.
@SailingSVLynx9 күн бұрын
Damn, I wish I was in La Rochelle! I do plan to visit there on S/V Lynx once she's done! Thanks for watching our videos!
@WillPittenger10 күн бұрын
Don't rush to put your soles in. Once they're installed, you won't be able to readily run plumbing under there. Ditto for any cabling unless you put that in conduits that you run now.
@SailingSVLynx10 күн бұрын
Don't worry, we will set them in, not glass them in until we are ready.
@charlesc.676710 күн бұрын
On your head bump area i hang down a couple strips yellow caution tape just as a reminder when your looking down not to stand up . Your electrician friend should have a open role.
@SailingSVLynx10 күн бұрын
Thanks
@NateGoesOutside10 күн бұрын
I think you guys should get two hard hats instead of sharing one! We never see both of you wearing one at the same time! lol! Love the channel! It’s one of my favorites!