Good morning. Thanks for the video, it's a great help. I just have one question, because I want to be sure before I make the cable... what is the connection sequence for both connectors? Do you have a drawing? Thanks from now on. 🙏

Sqaure wave should be good enough but if you really want a sine wave an I2C DAC woud be an interesting & inexpensive addition (money and code) a MicroChip MCP4725 i2c DAC might do the trick!

I bought this compressor, but mine came with a noise from the power transformer, a fuse blew, then it no longer turns on, the other fuse only worked a little, now it doesn't turn on, I really want to change the transformer, do you think the transformer 15w line would work?? The voltage is 220 volts in my city (Brasilia, Brazil), there was a lot of damage to the bodywork due to the delivery, it was severely dented, I believe this caused the damage, the plates are good because it worked with the buzzing sound for a few moments and the components They behaved well, I would really appreciate this confirmation regarding the source, please, I hope someone can help me with this! thanks in advance to the blessed one

I just bought one off EBay. If it works I’ll see if I can copy (clone) the programming. Considering what I paid for it I sure hope it works … did you use your scope probe direct to the output side of the GAL5 chip? I have a Pico Scope 3202 and don’t know if connecting it to RF needs a blocking cap or not.. great video I enjoy your channel. Eventually this unit is being shipped overseas so I’m considering installing the components for the 1watt version …

How use about trigger in count function?

Yes I found this a big help also. When all was said and done was it worth it in its function? Is there a possibility to print out the manual or send it to me as a file? I would gladly pay you for you time? Thank you

Interesting- I actually have found this little thing amongst so many other things I did not know I have 😂😂- anyway I was curious of what it does- so thanks for sharing- Mind you I do know why I have it- My 2011 MacBook Pro's speakers (or the audio out- not sure) isn't working and all I got is scratchy noise- so maybe this was the reason I bought that at some stage- can't remember ever using it though 🤔--I just sue the bluetooth headset instead- I will try that with an external speaker I guess at some stage- cheers

looking to get into ham radios, nice to see what tech actually goes into making and brodcasting am /fm signals never seen that b4 new to the channel and herer for the long run great video im 20mins in so far loved it

I was asked to come out of retirement a couple of weeks ago, to work on some software I last saw in 2018. I convinced them that I would cost to much... So, I'm still retired.

Nice to see you back! I suppose that loose metal shield could have caused a blown fuse. Thanks for an interesting video. Regards, David

Very clever and useful

First class technician

Hi, thanks for your videos, Can you tell me what make of magnifier are you using? Thanks!

Thanks for the video...just pick one of these up and seems to work just fine.....but I wanted it so I could check 4 pin tubes like the CX-345....but I can't seem to find it on the rolling index.....any ideas? Thanks much, Mike

Wow...lots of mouth noises...yikes!

I use my Dremel too to clean up the old spot weld marks on batteries.

That diamond dust file will be good to sharpen toe nail clippers!😊

I got one of the Seesii portable spot welders because I was tired of toting a lawn tractor battery around to power my other spot welder.

So I was able to replace all the Electrolytic caps. All were good it turned out. Originally, I had no sound from the sub but did have HF through the tweeter. Now, NOTHING. My +15V is dead. Other voltages are fine at their testpoints. It seems to show up once in a while then disappear again. It's weird! I have tried tracing the voltage. I've learned a lot but still can't track it down. I might just have to send it off for repair.

Tengo 1 pareja de "hr824" y lo único que pasa es que uno saca 5 dB más que el otro pero del pequeño, he hecho la medición con una señal rosa. Alguien me puede ayudar?

Damn I remember these old radios. In the winter time they made a damn good heater for the car. Summertime not so much. My dad had a white face and a 68 cougar mounted on the console between the seats. He had (2) 102 inch whips had a dog chained he would clip to the front bumper. Go to the beach throw the dog chain in the water and talk skip.

What are the chances of finding a walk through on a PS-30. Saving the story that goes along with the PSU and just done the inevitable by grounding out the casing popping the fuse after being 15 years in storage probing before use. One of these things sentimental in value place away. From memory (15 years ago..plus) Replaced T1, mains to 6Volts and resistors R6 and R12. Please correct me if I am wrong as there might have been a incorrect resistor value for one of these two from what is labeled on schematic ? Those parts where the only issue I experienced going beyond duty cycle. Will look into what the ESR 's are on some these caps. Interesting that 3 Ohm resistor got taken out noting on my side was fine before Mr aligator clip (240v coffee been region) Raise the stakes for a carton of beers for that one. 101 how not to energise a relay 🤣 Yeah the old girl goes back to IC2A era. Nothing's changed with matrix diodes.

Ever seen one where the thing works until a power interruption then when the power comes back the keypads doesn't work for a few days then will start working again until the next interruption?

Hi my friend, do you have the partnumber for the 16 pins ic on the small board over the main board repaired?

Dear author, do you remember which potentiometers used there? I have to replace all of them but I threw them off faster then ordering new.

I think you really should have a sinusoidal output?

Great video. When choosing replacement electrolytic caps for these speakers, do I need to worry much about ripple current ratings and ESR ratings? Or just values/voltage/dimensions? Thank you!

I just acquired two of these and I am having issues finding the schematics. Can you share where you found the schematics?

What battery did you replace it with? Also this is one of the best videos I've seen on this subject. Thank you.

A very interesting and informative video. Thanks from Aus!

Sharp Technician

I have worked on countless GE MASTR II transceivers and most units over 20 years of age I just make it a point to replace ALL of the tantalum capacitors in the exciter board and the audio board and on the 10 volt rail. Most often they will let out the magic smoke with a loud pop. If you have one on the 10 volt rail you will take out the IC board that regulates that voltage. This IC in unobtanium, you will need to cannibalize another radio to get that part. Same with the audio amplifier board, will destroy the audio amp IC. Bad thing is you need to replace a tantalum with a tantalum. They are expensive and one hopes they are not New Old Stock, you could wind up with a bad new replacement.

Are there any alternative pa output tubes for the FT101E ?

Recycle bin.

I bought this exact model about one and a half years ago but didn't get around to trying it out until recently. It would not turn on when I "long pressed" the power button. I hooked up the charger and the screen came on but said "low battery" and the battery icon showed it was full with no indication of it charging, contradictions that indicated some type of problem. I took the front and back plates off of the welder and figured out how to remove the board, (It has small aluminum bars that slide out to remove it but are pretty easy to push out, That plastic goop shown in this video only keeps you from sliding the board out that way, it isn't holding the board in place. Inside was a battery pack that I checked and had only 2 volts present. I thought I might as well try a battery pack hack and hooked an alligator clip to the positive terminal of the battery pack and another to the negative terminal. Then I got a battery I had that had about 4 volts showing on it and touched the other ends of my leads from the battery pack to the ends of the battery for about 5 seconds. I checked the voltage on the battery pack and it was up to 3 volts. My single battery was still at 4 volts so I repeated the process and then hooked up the charger to the pack. The pack began to charge correctly. It took awhile to charge but when it was full, I put it all back together, (forgot how the aluminum bars went in, so that doubled the time). Afterwards, it worked great, just like the above video shows.

hello can you give me the software by internet link thank you

By long plug in wires I mean the ones you said be very careful with when pulling them out. I hold the socket and use needle nose pliers to pull them and plug them back in after I ohm them. My transceiver came with one smashed.

I counted the squares on the cutting mat and guessed the dimensions of the tinfoil strips, it's roughly 3 x 25 cm, so an area of 75 cm squared. Didn't expected 2 nF of capacitance at all, quite surprised! Thanks for the video, really informative: I appreciated that you showed both the entire building process and you took the time to make all sorts of measurement, the most interesting to me being capacity since I would like to assemble my own for fun and exploration and I wanted a ballpark figure to know what I should expect out of it

I had this when I was teenager

Nice video, thanks!

This is the BEST Fluke 8012A video online! Thank you. Now I know how to get measurements off mine. It’s actually much better at milliohm readings than both my other fluke meters. My 6.5 digit meter is on par with the 1980s fluke that I bought for 49.00. 😂😂 Now I will figure out how to install a backlight. Shouldn’t be too hard. Thanks for the video.

Dr Carlsons lab STAT!

My 757 rotating dial wheel is jammed, the frequency is locked even when I can get it to rotate with difficulty, and nothing seems to loosen it. I've had it apart inside and out, but find no solution...any ideas?

Help please! Both of my HS824 speakers have been serviced before because when they are turned on they had a shortage and fluctuated in volume. I had to quickly switch the low frequency settings back and forth to get each the sounds to jump to the correct volumes set. The speaker volumes constantly cut as if the speakers have some type of shortage.

I have swapped the resistors and now there is too low audio at output.

It was keying on vox with the other board too.

Nice fix

I have a compressor in front of this boy and he never lights up unless I bypass the compressor. I'm all diy was blessed with this guy for 10 dollars lmao is this okay

thank you bucimara.

Hello sir, great demonstration, I also have the same millivoltmeter I am looking to make the test point, can you send me the measurements of the part Regards