That coating on the pins is a thick lithium grease. I’ve seen on one occasion where the grease itself was causing an issue. Use a few q-tips and some brake cleaner to clean it off. Wet the q-tips and don’t spray directly on or into the EEC. Yes you need to clean both sides.

Nitro 555 G2. 275/40-17’s. Just a street tire. Not a drag radials or anything really sticky.

It’s more so the tires don’t rub. English roads are very bumpy.

I like that, gonna have to borrow the saying for myself lol

@@jplperformance9073 Got 2 stickers on the back window of both my Foxes...🇺🇸

It’s a factory non A/C car and the seats could pass for NOS. I suspect you live in a southern state.

No even in northern states it’s still here hot and humid. Even if the car didn’t come with AC you have the talent to install it. You have undeniable skills. And something that isnt done normally installing a factory sunroof. The coupes didn’t come with one after 1984 or 1986. I had one installed. It little things that make the car all around appealing. That being said to do a restoration like this being in another country where you have to import parts I can get next day is nothing short of incredible.

Any fresh motor will have some blowy until the rings break in. I need to get some miles on it first, but it's England. Been raining nearly every day for two weeks.

There has to be a reason. Thinking they cant make polymer caps in the large values required. I'm not an electrical engineer so I can't say.

Fiesta Style. I have an early video on installing them on a Terminator X system for a foxbody.

I'm not a "racer" so I'm not banging gears with my right foot never leaving the floor. I have three of these older 3550/TKOs in different vehicles. They are robust but not speed shifters. I even have one with the carbon fiber blocker rings on 2nd and 3rd and I didn't note any better shifting vs the standard brass ones. I would try and shift at 6k at the track but I'm not there enough to be consistent. They do need to be warm or they like to grind 2nd.

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad have you tried refacing the cone contact area of the gear? Whether brass or carbon fiber, the smooth surface that they contact on the gear becomes polished after miles and years of use. Taking 400 grit paper to it and removing the polish will give the cone something to bite and speed up or slow down the gear better. You shouldn't have any gear clash regardless of temp. I've daily driven my upgraded 3550 in my 93 Cobra since '99. I'm to the point of face plating or switching to a TKX. I need higher rpm shift capability. My engines make power upward of 7k these days.

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad whoa....Reef Blue coupe?

@@arturozarate1752 I use red scotchbrite to knock down the burnished clutching cone area, or the gear is usually brand new. Faceplating is aggressive. Racing is racing but faceplated, these never seem to last very long. I've seen them blown up quite a lot. If I was going to race stickshift I would build a T56. My TKX is pretty sweet but I'm not sure where the limits are with it. My new 363 is going to definitely be testing those limits this summer.

@@arturozarate1752 Bimini blue.

The original Tremec parts are flowing again, but are more expensive as ever.

Rude!

We have to work out details with my contract. I get more face-time when I spend money. 😂

I have a 61/76 Precision. Will still probably be plenty.

Heatshield Products

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad thanks!

Yep also some cars have oil coolers that you also drain from like for instance the hellcat. Which between oil filter and that it makes the difference. Oil doesn’t just sit in the oil pan.

Yeah, those FL1A filters were huge by today's standards.

I have no idea. E85 is not available in the UK and I don't have a pyrometer in the exhaust.

Because the original retainer/keeper combo was that much different.

​​@@Mike-FoxsAbroadThat makes sense. BTW, I also have a Turbocoupe powered fox Mustang with the Boport beehives & 1.5 cam set up by a machine shop. Runs awesome. Really enjoy your videos and appreciate your enthusiasm for the 2.3.

It does nothing for pinion angle. If you can measure the angle change after installing 1/4" at the trans mount then you have very sensitive angle finders. If the rear joint breaks nothing catastrophic happens, so it's a non safety issue.

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad ok ..... but its still heavy and bouncing up and down in there ..and costs a 150 $ plus shipping .. you can buy real safty loops for under 30$ ......

You dont have to mess with seat bolts and it seems its easy to install, if it passes NHRA, ITS REAL. ​@Diondo26

I’m surprised you didn’t nick mine with the oil pan.

I'm not one to science that out. 500hp is 500hp but boosted engines usually make more torque. Especially turbo cars. Cyl wear... I'll never know. The tops of the pistons wore so much after the rods bent that I cant say how much accelerated wear happened. I know that when I built it there was no perceivable ridge. Now I can feel a little one with my finger.

Harmonics and pre-detonation kills these blocks. I’ve been pushing 600hp on a 302 with forged internals and a main girdle for yrs.

They had plenty of gap. When the rods bent it hung the rings out one side of the piston so much that they got blasted with all the heat and pressure.

That guy talks a lot but it's frustrating watching his videos. Especially when he goes off topic so often and never really answers his clickbait questions. He only gives out pieces of information and I'm not sure if it's factual or theoretical. He is a journalist and wants people to pay him for info. I unsubscribed from him a few years ago. I did have a nice 50oz Fluidamper harmonic balancer and an aluminum flywheel on this 302. Harmonics would have been as good as they could be with stock crank, rods and pistons. If you watch our other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/monYfIuPe6pjp7M it shows that a girdle will not keep the block from cracking. It only keeps the parts from scattering.

He is far far from just a journalist. He’s closer to an internal combustion scientist. He had brain surgery so his speech is slow, but he has probably taught more people the science of porting heads than anyone in the country

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad I agree on all counts, but I think he's got a lot of knowledge. You just need the patience to listen

@@geniferteal4178 He tells no real secrets. Just practical knowledge and tries to get people to buy his software and sign up for seminars. I'm not saying he doesn't have any good knowledge, but he is very reserved in what he talks about in his videos. What people say and how they say it just is not received the same way for all people. He is just not my cup of tea.

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad I understand. He is a tough listen.

Boost was around 12psi. I got into the 10's and that was enough for me with this combo. Especially with it smoking a bit and #7 having low compression.

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Thanks for the reply. My '80 Capri hasn't seen the light of day since '99. I have a 2001 Explorer 5.0 / 4R70W sitting on the garage floor. But I also have a Gen 4 LH6 5.3, that I got free, and frankly, I can't see putting a 230 hp iron lump, where a 400 hp aluminum one will fit perfectly. I don't believe in brand loyalty. Sorry if you hate it.