@@andyschneider8221 yes you can use a fuel line disconnect tool and I think Cadillac makes a special tool for the job. I just don’t like buying stuff if I don’t have too.

That’s awesome. We agree, as I said in the intro of my video. Thanks for watching and have a great day!

@@wilmi79 outside of calling a locksmith, I’m not sure. Hope you’re able to figure it out. And if you do, let me know

@@RICKGRIMM-de9gv yes you can but it is not necessary. Just tighten and torque the rockers when the valves are closed. That part is easy. Don’t over think it.

Thanks for watching. Please refer to other comments if you want to know my stance on the screen.

Did you use a code reader to clear the codes after you changed the hoses? If not, it could take time to complete a successful drive cycle for the codes to go away on their own. If you don’t have a scanner/reader, you can go to autozone or oriellys and ask them to clear it. If you did clear it and it came back then you still have something causing the lean condition. I’d start with doing a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks somewhere else. If you have other codes like misfire, check spark plugs and fuel injectors. If you have o2 sensor codes too, then change the sensor. Also try cleaning the MAF sensor if you have a MAF code.

Just the upper reservoir needs topped off. Then let it run until the car warms up and the thermostat opens to let it cycle through the radiator and the engine. Then turn your heater on to let it cycle through the heater core. Then top off the reservoir again if needed.

@@JeffLyle Sounds good. Thank you so much!

Thanks for watching. Great tip!

That’s great. Thanks for sharing!

What’d you do?

That’s a good one!

I probably had 2-3 ounces come out. I honestly can’t remember if I even bothered pouring it back in.

@@JeffLyle Thanks bro you saved me a ton of time and money

@@aw3158yessir!!! Glad you got it done.

I think it will. Mobilemaxcaraudio.com has this listed as working for 2004-2008 TL. But if you think it won’t, give them a call. These guys are awesome and this is by far the best fix I’ve done to the car since I’ve owned it. I will drive this car forever and know the amount of will never fail now!

@@JeffLyle will do! Thanks!

Perfect no issues! Should go another 15 years no problem.

Lefty loosey righty tighty

I believe it was a 6” extension with a swivel and a deep well socket on one end and a 1/2” to 3/8” reducer on the other. In total it was like 9”. If you go too long you won’t have room for it.

although I've never experienced a P1101 personally, I can see how a broken PCV line could cause the computer to think the MAF was not working properly. Hopefully that issue is resolved now. Normally you get the lean code P0171 from the vacuum leak first. As far as the oil leak goes, it is best to find the fresh wet oil drop under the car and do your best to trace it up to where it came from. The hardest part with these cars is all the plastic panels underneath that can make it hard to do. If you dont smell burning oil though, chances are it is not related to the turbo feed or return line. That sucker gets very hot and will definitely burn the oil.

@@JeffLyle the code went away and they told me no leaky oil and valve cover gasket was not the issue. Drove home car seemed fine. Next day I was going to work. When I sped up to get on Expressway, car started to shake. Check engine light flashung, traction control and service stabililok message came on. After 30 seconds, it turned off. But once I slowed down or sped up, I could feel the shaking. I called dealership, they said its a different problem, it will be a new work order. I had a scanner, got code p0302. Engine misfire. That explains the shaking. I have to bring it to someone else, not driving car in the meantime. I thought maybe something got wet, I let it dry out but it still does it. In idle its ok, but once I speed up, I can feel it. I looked on cadillac forums and reddit. Quiet a few instances regarding this but no concrete solution.

@@locutus1126since it’s not a random misfire code and it’s isolated to #2, I would suggest swapping the plug in #2 to another cylinder. Then go drive it and see if the misfire moves with the “bad” plug. If it doesn’t, then move the coil packs. If the code moves to the cylinder that the bad part went too, you will know what needs to be replaced.

@@JeffLyle I did that yesterday, when I took out the ignition coil, the pocket was full of oil. I checked the others and they had oil as well. So I assume that is the issue. Fricken dealership, I brought in for oil leak and I said it may be the valve gasket. They said it's not the issue. Maybe the large, outside one was ok but the 4 around the spark plugs are leaking like sieve.

@@locutus1126not a big fan of the stealership. Sounds like you found it though. Good luck with it. Let me know if that fixes it!

Is this something new you are experiencing with the car? How does it feel turning the wheel at very slow speeds, like 2mph? If it is still very stiff then it has to be the pump or air in the system. Make sure to burp the air out fully.

@@JeffLyle gonna need a new pump. I did the process to remove air several times. Slow driving tight as hell. Fast driving as long as I don't try to make sudden turns I'm fibe

@@lightningsurvivor1432dang that sucks. I think you’re right about it being the pump. Good luck!

Thanks for the comment and reminder to put the car in neutral!

haha, yeah it's about the same. Which isn't all that bad considering you save a couple hours by not taking the intake off.

@@JeffLyle I can see where my hand is in the number 8 atleast.

@@hitmanm818very true. Hey be thankful it’s not a bad oil pressure sensor on a Jeep wrangler JK. My some drives one and I’ve had to change the sensor 3 times.

@@JeffLyle it’s similar ? Placed in the worst part possible on that jeep?

@@hitmanm818much worse on the Jeep. It’s on the back of the oil cooler under the lower intake manifold. Absolutely ridiculous.

that's an interesting one. I've never had the pump go out on a Cadillac. But I have had the connector that attaches to the spryer that sticks out of the hood break. If you hear the motor running but dont see anything shooting out of the sprayers, remove the heat shield under the hood and see if the sprayers are still connected. If not, they can be found on Amazon for less than $20.

Haha you’ll probably take your truck to a dealership to fix it. Thanks for watching though. And I hope you get up and running again. Btw if you make a better video I’d love to see it.

I point out in a pinned comment that I show the wrong piston firing. However the point of the video is to find which pistons are up by the position of the crank and cam gear. Nothing wrong there. Have a nice day and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped

I recommend either making or buying a smoke machine. I got one on Amazon for about $100 that works great but you can make them for about $20.

😂 you must be new here. If screen replacement is necessary you have bigger problems and you’ll know right away since the new sensor won’t read. This engine had zero sludge and I actually proved it when I pulled it from the Yukon and did a few upgrades before swapping it into my 72 C10.

glad you got it fixed and did so quickly! I am not surprised by the symptoms you had (25psi when off, etc.) These things just seem to go haywire when they give out.

thanks for sharing. I wasn't sure about that or not so I looked it up and I believe you are correct!

Great tip. If I ever have to do this again I would consider that!

Was your front right door speaker loud before you installed the amp? If so it probably isn’t an amp issue. My experience was when the factory amp went bad, all the speakers went quiet gradually over time. If that was your case too, then check all the connections to make sure they are plugged in. If that doesn’t work I’d call mobile car audio to rule out the amp being bad. If you’ve had previous car audio work done, I’d be willing to bet some of that previous work has failed.

dorman 626-611 is supposedly a "permanent" fix. I stuck with oem since the original lasted 10 years and 100k miles... surely i wont have the car 10 more years and another 100k miles to fix it again... lol

@@JeffLyle fair, good point. My Y pipe lasted 50 000 miles but also at 10 years. Mainly use my ATS for city driving. I guess I'll go with OEM again. Thanks

@@UkrainianPunk180 I'm sure either way is fine. Good luck with it and thanks for reaching out!

Probably not. Do you have a check engine light on and can you scan it to see any codes? If you don’t have a scanner, you can go to a parts store like autozone and they can scan it for you. Let me know what codes you get and I can give you most common ideas to what you should look at

Thanks man. It works for the Jeep top too!

awesome! I'm glad the video was helpful and you got your truck fixed!

No sounds from any part of the valve train. It was just a bad sensor so nothing mechanical.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L3WBDN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Glad it was helpful!

Check your heater hoses. Coolant will flow through the heater core behind the firewall and those hoses and their connectors can crack. Let me know what you see!

haha that's pretty funny. I've done that before... left a manual in gear and try to turn over the engine... just doesn't work. However, in an automatic, you can still turn it while in park since the torque converter will let it spin.

Thanks for watching. Were you able to fix it?

@@JeffLyle Yes. It took me 35 minutes from start to finish to replace the solenoid thanks to your video.

Yes!!! Glad the video helped and you saved tons by not taking it to the shop.

No kidding that’s the truth

@@JeffLyle took me a few days to replace mine but I just got it finished using your method. I accidentally dropped the new sensor which fell further into the engine and that alone took a few hours to dig out. Then putting the electrical connector back on is tough because you don’t know where the 3 prong plugs are aligned. But in all it beats taking it into the dealership and then charging $700-$800 to replace a sensor because they wanna take apart the engine.

Glad to hear you were able to get it done. Nothing beats saving hundreds and avoiding a trip to the stealership!

@@JeffLylemy hand started bleeding a little and I remembered your comment that “if you aren’t bleeding a little bit then you not working” which is true for this job. Also I’m gonna use that term… the Stealership cause that’s what they are.

Haha glad I could pass that term on. Also a little blood helps you appreciate the hard work you did to save some big bucks. If you ever have issues with your truck and can’t find the right fix, make sure to reach out to me… I’ve seen it all!

Absolutely. If the screen is the problem you have bigger issues. I’ve proven that if you regularly change the oil and have no sludge issues the screen will be clean. Thanks for watching.

so they say i can leave it out is this alright and i wasnt hitting at you for the screen being left i just didt know if i can clean it or what ever all i know is my truck runs nice then when it heats up the dinger gos off @@JeffLyle

No worries! Yes you can leave the screen out. In fact if you ever do a DOD delete and replace the valley cover with one that doesn’t have a VLOM, then there won’t even be a provision for the screen.

You can also clean it if you want to keep it. However most people end up tearing it when they remove it unless they take the intake off to get more room.

Yes, I replaced the solenoid and cleared the codes and everything works fine. The hardest part of the job is getting the exhaust pipe out of the way to reach it.

Yeah it’s hit or miss. Sometimes a random tool or screwdriver works and sometimes you find out in 3 months that the belt was stretched too much and starts squeaking horribly.

Start to finish with the video took me about 3 hours. I've also driven the vehicle nearly 2,500 miles since I did the fix just over a week ago and I have no issues. I took the car all the way from Dallas to Phoenix and back and it runs great.

Ac delco 12636225 is the belt. I think they are like $25 on Amazon.

It definitely takes a lot of feel to find it. But it’s worth it to not have to pull the intake. Good luck!

Yes it was leaking due to the air getting in the system causing the fluid to foam up and expand. The fluid would leak out of the cap. I didn't have any leaking occur at the seals though.