What was the grey you used for the upper Hull after the preshading and chipping fluid?

Keep up the good work

Hello how long should you wait before applying the activator. LG

Audio is great. I am truly in awe of your skills!

12:25 Is my favorite part of the video.

Wow just wow, beautiful model, superb narration, really informative and excellent music choice, I've just started a 1/72 gato class and this video has give n me more information than the last 20 i have watched put together, please keep the format for the rest of your video's. SUBSCRIBED 👍

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 23 June, 2024). Updated I take delight in watching your video build of the Border Model 1:35th-scale plastic model kit of the conning tower and a 66-cm segment of the hull of a Deutsche Krieksmarine Typ VIIc Unterseeboot (U-Boat). Had I the resources, I would do similarly, except that I would display as it succumbs to the fearsome blast of a pair of 160-kg U.S. Navy air-dropped depth charges. These would descend from the forward bomb bay of the Hong Kong Models 1:32nd-scale kit of Consolidated’s B-24D Liberator USAAF Heavy Bomber, which I would convert to a replica of a Consolidated PB4Y-1 Liberator U.S. Navy Maritime Convoy Patrol Bomber, positioned airborne, its four propellers spinning, the aeroplane painted in the USN tri-colour camouflage scheme of gloss dark sea blue on the upper wings, flat dark sea blue on the upper fuselage, intermediate blue on the vertical surfaces, and gloss white on the ventral surfaces; it might have some minor alterations in electrical equipment here and there, as well. I also would endeavour to extend the submarine’s submerged hull sufficiently enough to equal the wingspan of the formidable bomber: 33.528 metres, which in 1:32nd-scale would be 104.775 cm, and in 1:35th-scale 95.794 cm. (As I am a word nerd, though NOT a maths whiz, I cannot infer which would have a more realistic appearance.) I would include the deck figures, adding a second set posed in recoil from the explosion washing away some of them. If you would like, you could use my idea herein for a future project. I suggest an aircraft because I doubt if a destroyer escort or similar in 1:35th-scale would be affordable or physically practical; the full hull of this Typ VIIc U-Boat would be nearly two metres in length! Revell Germany makes this submarine in 1:144th-scale e (05100). The company had produced a U.S. Navy Fletcher-class destroyer (over 114.6 metres in the actual), in this scale a significant 79.58 cm (05150)! The sub, 67.056 metres in the actual, and 46.567 cm in 1:144th-scale. The pair in combination would make for a dramatic display. I would create displays of aircraft, ships, vehicles, figures, buildings, etc., in different scales for an immensely intriguing forced perspective diorama. A half metre or so behind that USN destroyer and DKM U-boat combination-one would have to look at the completed models to evaluate the actual placement-one could place Liberty ship replicas and models of their escorts in 1:700th-, 1:500th-, 1:350th-, 1:200th-, and other scales, the larger reproductions to the fore. Matchbox made a 1:72nd-scale kit of a Flower-class Corvette (PK-901) that one could set in the fore of the USN destroyer, itself contesting a Revell Germany model in the same proportion of a DKM Typ VIIc “Wolf Pack” U-Boat (05015). The following is my reply to your recent response to an earlier comment of mine: Oh, some certainly do earn significant incomes with 1) model-making, dioramas, figurines, buildings (some of historical interest, others of prospective designs for architects and their clients), most scratch-building in very large scales replicas of ships, aircraft, etc., on the staff of historical museums; 2) European miniatures that professional artisans long have crafted to astounding precision and fidelity; these miniaturists live and work at the beating heart of a centuries-old tradition in France, Italy, Germany, etc., extending back into the High Middle Ages; 3) motion picture productions of highly intricate settings, three-dimensional backdrops, etc. If you have The Lord of the Rings trilogy Extended Edition Blu-ray set, some of the discs present these very processes video recorded in progress; the staff had built some “miniatures” that were so ornate or intricate, so huge, that one senior designer-builder, Mary MacLachlan (if I recall correctly that spelling), called two statues fashioned of ceramic towering an actual seven feet “bigatures”! Hogwarts Castle is over fifteen metres across, much of it lit internally. Thank you also for appreciating my brainstorming. I have lots of ideas, though no means to implement them. Had I great wealth, I would plan them, hiring talented modellers to execute the projects. Shortly after the Second World War one foggy morning, a North American Aviation B-25 Mitchell USAAF Medium Bomber crashed into an upper storey of the Empire State Building. To reproduce that with a Hong Kong Models 1:32nd-scale kit would require a replica of the iconic edifice over 14 metres tall!

A little tip for everyone for realism... the top cover for the instruments pod and the cockpit surfaces in general is YELLOW when the black paint is worn through! The same goes for the air frame. This is because the aircraft is coated with a YELLOW or Light BLUE-GREEN protective surface treatment for the aluminum. You seldom have wear so deep it gets through the paint and the surface treatment. Even if you did, these is almost no chance there is zero yellow (or blue-green) and all silver in the chipping and wear. This is true even for very heavily used and worn down F-16As going in for their F-16V (aka Block 20 AM) overhaul at AIDC Taiwan. Don't take my word for it. Take a look at photos or ask anyone on the flight line.

Thats a Masterpiece 🫡

You did a fantastic job !!! And the chips were very realistic...

Absolutely the best Viper i've ever seen , except for the chipping ! Sorry....Was in Afghanistan in summer with several Dutch Vipers , they were dirty and greasy but no chips....

好帥

Awesome weathering!

Impressive!

Got a question, what are you using for painting small parts? Is see you stick something like clay on it?

If he go any further, this thing will fly.

Your build and painting technique seems fine to me, you will improve your techniques as you go along, although you're always going to get comments from people I suppose. Hopefully I can aspire to your level one day. Thanks for the video and the ideas, once my pension comes in I'll check the pennies and see what I can get. 👍

Love the voiceover

Ein wunderschönen Tiger-1 , sehr gute Arbeit 👍🏻❤️

The mud and splatter look great.

Did you base it on a refpic (reference picture)?

General Greetings. Let me say that my suggestion comes from my experience as an tank crew memeber for more than 20 years. As for the chipping, the work you did on the winter camouflage is more than realistic since the white was rendered with washable paints that are less resistant than the original ones. Less realistic is instead chipping the armored plates painted with original schemes (desert yellow, olive green, German grey) as they are very resistant. Other metal parts in iron, aluminum etc. (tool boxes, equipment, etc.) can realistically be chipped. As for the tracks, they are made of special steel, so the spare ones are covered in (moderate) rust, while the running gears are not rusty. A more realistic way is to use a color obtained by mixing dark gray with a few drops of dark red as a base and then dotting the entire track with dark browns and dark grays to reproduce the different hue of the "used steel". The edge part and the inside ones where the wheels turn can be highlighted in silver as you have done realistically. I hope I have been of some help. Happy modelingoil

Good Day Modelcomrade A nice Winter Beast.. 😊 Great build and exelent Camouflage ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐from me for the Tiger Greets from Christian at Germany

General greetings. I really liked your beautiful artistic painting work. Since you are recreating as real as possible a battle-worn Tiger, allow me to humbly add a couple of comments that I think are helpful in underlining the reality of tanks. First of all the tracks are not rusty at all in a working tank. The terrain with all its rocks, stones, pebbles and hard debris helps keep the tracks clean by preventing rust from accumulating. The second point concerns the massive use of chipping. I know it's a fabulous artistic technique for enhancing the visual effects of the paint job that we model makers are used to producing, but it's quite unrealistic on a tank's armor. Dirt, dust, grease and oil dots are much more realistic effects to use to replicate real life effects. Camouflage-colored chips are best suited to equipment or metal parts (not armor plates). This is not a criticism of your modeling techniques but just a note from an experienced tanker. Happy modeling

David R Lentz, USA Oh, absolutely masterful in your artistry, sir! Your knowledge of your subject matter shows. You ought to be earning well into six figures professionally doing displays and dioramas such as these. Another treat is the elegant manner and the polished diction of the narrator. Not till well into your presentation had I learnt you were one and the same! Well, then, a professional twice over, you are! In a very general sense have I had aspirations to displays much as this. Another way one might simulate lightning’s occurrence is through using any of the phosphorescent or photo-electric materials in rod form that 1) when an electric current passes through it (possibly attenuated with a rheostat), it incandesces white, process blue, yellow, red, green, and possibly other bright hues, depending upon the type one acquires, 2) one can bend the supporting wire in various positions, which the material will hold, 3) it is a thermically cool medium, avoiding the risk of combustion. In them, I also would use translucent plastic panelling that one can 1) form in a gentle curve, 2) stain into an assortment of colours, 3) paint to suggest an overcast sky, or 4) perhaps even display a photographic backdrop (in this case, a dynamic sunset with slate grey clouds limned in bright oranges, simmering vermilions, cooler magentas, all blending into one another) . . . . Behind this one could set one’s simulated lightning, masking their appearance.

David R Lentz, USA Oh, absolutely masterful in your artistry, sir! Your knowledge of your subject matter shows. You ought to be earning well into six figures professionally doing displays and dioramas such as these.

Those markings are nonsense.

Great build, but I don’t understand the Red Cross. They didn’t do that

Freaking awesome mate!!!! What a work!!! Congrats

....very nice 👍👍👍🙄👏

fantastic work my friend

Is that your voice?

Magnifico tutorial ,le a quedado increíble el tiger ,muy bien explicado todos los pasos

Nice paint and weathering job buddy. Looks cool . Keep on the good work and model on :)

Good morning General, the Tiger turned out absolutely spot on, your weathering was donevto perfection, congratulations on a job very well done, best regards from Australia, Les

Good afternoon, we’ve talked together on Ricardo, I was wondering if you would offer your services for some work to do? (Relatively easy I would say) please let me know if you might have some interest for it. I’m in Switzerland too. Regards. N

If you were going for a non commissioned U-boat look. We're the U-boat has been in dry dock for around 10 or more years with nothing being done to it. You hit your project correctly. But if this is an active U-boet. It would not look like that. The condition of the U-boat was very important to the crew. That was their home in the middle of the ocean. A U-boat crew would not have allowed their sub to get into such a rough state. They would not allow any rust on their boat. Even a minor amount of rust could have been missed and with the salt water. It would have grown and caused a problem for them at sea. Before you start weathering something you need to do a little more research about your item. You do great work but like I said a U-boat would not be in such bad shape if it was active. By no means am I criticizing your work. You do excellent work. I just thought you might appreciate knowing a little bit of history on the U-boat.

This is an art! I have my Tamiya F-16 1:48 sitting and waiting. It will be tough to do anything even close to your work. But since I served IDF as a ground technician at t he airbase where we had squadrons of AH-64 and F-16 I can say they were kept in much better shape :)

You did an amazing job man and I love the hard weathering on this plane. She's old. She's goy some miles on her and she's still a bad ass plane. Great work. I'm about to paint my 1/32 F-16 from Tamiya and you have that same look I'm going after. Great work man

Weathering masterclass.

Hello, great presentation, everything explained thoroughly and calmly, including preparations. revelation. I have a question about the effects you create with oil paints. Can this effect also be achieved with acrylic paints, e.g. Vallejo MC? Greetings from Poland