Not sure what you're saying, but thanks.

I looked, but didn't see anything in the Quad Lock lineup. I have a video showing how the Ram Mount fits on both my ZX10R and ZX6R (Video Link Below). The problem with the ZX6R is the lip underneath the Steering Stem Nut. That Well isn't tall enough for both the Quad Lock and Ram Mount. I originally used the compression rubber that comes with the kit, but didn't like how loose it was and that's because of the shallow Well in the Stem Nut. I overcame the problem by carefully taping a small nut and washer to a socket. With a long extension I was able to reach under the hollow Fork Stem and attach it to the screw that goes through the Ram Mount Fork Stem Base on top. I did have to grind down the underside of the Ram Mount Stem Base as it was too tall and would have touched the bottom of the Steering Damper. All this is in the video. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question. Install Ram Mount Video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHLciKyhnc6rgKM

I don't know. The 2025 1K's look really good and have many electronic upgrades.

I believe your referring to the Wind Screen. Kawasaki.com (Parts: Direct Link Below) has a diagram that illustrates 6 Small Screws with Nylon Washers and a Rubber Nut for each, to attach the outer edge of the screen and Nose Cowl together. I did not see any other attachment points. When removing, the screen should slide up and to the rear from underneath the nose cowl. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question. Scroll down to the bottom of the page: www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/parts/228094/2020/ZX1002ELF

I've installed Two Brothers and Yoshimura Slip-Ons on my ZX14R in the past and did not require a tune. The Catalytic Converter is located just at the end of the headers like the 2024 ZX6R. You may see a bit of performance increase, but more significantly you'll hear the difference. I did slip-ons to my ZX14 because I had no plans to tune it but really wanted something that looked and sounded better. In most cases if you're just adding a slip-on (yes, even with a mid/link-pipe) you don't need a tune, especially if you don't mess with the Cat. Having your bike tuned on a dyno after installing a slip-on is not a bad idea either. Thank you for the question.

@ Appreciate the info! Yes, I will remove the Cat and install link pipe along with the slip-on. Thanks for clearing the doubt!

@HVACOG There's a link in the description that will take you to the NINJAof1 Google Drive. Detailed step-by-step instructions are included along with torque settings. Remember to re-torque the header nuts to 15 Foot Pounds after warming the engine up, and the radiator fan starts. The nuts should need a re-torque if you follow the steps I do in the video. Hope that helps. Thank you

@ they’re at 15 lbs right now. . Did yours change after it got hot ?

@@HVACOG Yes, after warming the engine with the radiator fan on, the Header Nuts did need to be torqued again to 15 lbs.

Look where I put the heel of my hand in the video right about 6:55, there's a hook in there and that attaches to the inner cowl. Then, there are the 3 posts that go into the 3 grommets, the bolt at the top and the push pin at the very bottom, on the inner cowl. You lift the posts out from the rear and use the heal of your hand to slightly push in and allow the hook to slide backward. Finally, lift the cowl slightly outward, pull back, and slide out where it hooks on the nose cowl. Hope that helps. Let me know. You can slow the video down so that you can see what I'm talking about by clicking on the gear in the bottom right of your screen and selecting speed. Thank you.

@ I got it off. Trying to fit the racefit exhaust to the graves headers. Not working out well. Got the header on but I may shorten the slip on on a band saw

I really need to lose some weight, but I still had fun. Thank you for the comment.

I did not put the O2 Sensor back on. The Graves Full Titanium/Carbon Fiber Exhaust has the O2 Sensor Bung located on the 4 into 2 into 1 collector at the top left, just behind the oil pan. There is a link below to the NINJAof1 Google drive where you can view a photo of the location on the bike. It looks like there is enough room to install it. Hope that helps. Thank you drive.google.com/file/d/1RxL5gxrUQp21vMUA0KMWzgb4Q6fIob6G/view?usp=drive_link

If you are removing the PAIR Valve and installing block-off plates the bike cannot be tuned for 'Pops & Bangs'. If you leave the PAIR Valve in place (Factory Form), you have the option to have P&G, but you don't have to get it. I've mentioned this before in other comments: there is no affect to performance if you leave or remove the PAIR Valve. I took it out because it isn't necessary for what I use the bike for and it's one less thing I have to work around when doing maintenance. In some cases, this can even help with airflow across the top of the engine when combining the removal of the EVAP canister, associated hoses, solenoids, etc. I did the same mods to my ZX6R (40th AE) and H2. All of these items can be disabled in the ECU while avoiding errors that lead to the bike being limited on performance (Limp Mode). Below are two video links (Mine and Chris Moore's) of my ZX6R getting dyno tuned by Chris Moore at Moore Mafia. He talks more about this subject. Hope that answers your question. Thank you NINJAof1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYvUdoqOnZVgi6c Moore Mafia: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q52bn3qkepl0pZY

No. I left the gas in. I used some vacuum caps that you can get at Harbor Freight. I show this in the video, and It's in the parts list. I also show in the video how the tank is propped up while it's resting on the floor. Hope that answers your question. Thank you.

If you're talking about the outer shell fairings, then it's possible the three posts weren't seated in the three gromets located on the mid-rear section of those two pieces. If they weren't, then it's also possible the rectangular hook located just back from the front center of those two fairings were also not seated. These two areas I described are the main mounting points with two other mounting points 1. Push pin at the lower inner cowl 2. screw in front of the fuel tank fastening the L/R dash cowl, L/R inner and outer shell cowls together). Be sure to check out the detailed instructions in the description of this and all other modification videos. There are time stamps for each of the steps. Thank you for the question. Hope it helps.

That is the O2 Sensor that connects to the headers. I taped off the connector from the harness and installed a Bung Plug onto the header. This was later disabled in the ECU when I sent it to Moore Mafia for a flash. Hope that answers your question. Thank you.

@ yes. I’m sending my ecu 2wdw. It’s on the way to them. I didn’t do the header like you because graves didn’t quite fit to the racefit I have. Oh well it’s still wicked fast. Your bike got 6rwhp from the header alone

If you are stuck with the stock headers you can gut-out the cat. I recommend taking the headers off for this task. It's fairly brutal involving drilling, a hammer and screwdriver and whatever else you need to clear it out. When reinstalling the header be sure to get new header gaskets. Hope that helps. Thank you

If you just trace the wire up from the 02 sensor on the header towards the top of the engine, you'll see where the plug is. I show this in the video. Hope that helps. Thank you.

Answer below.

I've answered this same question for the ZX10R build series. There is absolutely no performance improvement when deleting emissions on the ZX6R (Remove Pair Valve/Solenoid and install Block-off Plates, Remove Exhaust Butterfly and Servo Motor). There was no emission canister on my ZX6R. The ZX10R did have an emission canister, and it was removed along with any solenoids associated with the emission. I removed these items to free up space along with improving air flow across the top of the engine. This was especially true for my H2. Weight savings is negligible. When doing future maintenance, I don't have to worry about working around these components that really aren't necessary unless you have to get an emission test at your location. Normally, when I replace the air filter on my bikes, I do all the other stuff while I'm there with the tank off: removal of pair valve, solenoid, hoses, etc. Thank you for the question. Hope that answers your question.

Thank you for the comment and be sure to check out the entire ZX10R build series @ kzbin.info/aero/PLzdClgclXkSN2j1d_FHIjUc9TsrZhP6U7 Enjoy!

Awesome. It's been a while since I got a new subscriber. Thank you very much. Enjoy!

Thank you for the comment. Be sure to check out the entire series including detailed instructions that can be viewed online or downloaded from the NINJAof1 Google Drive. Enjoy ZX6R Build Series: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXOliWRqeZakjLM ZX6R Build Series Instructions: kzbin.info?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbWVzQW9hRUxzVHhQaS1NdVdSNVRNM3Fxa2Nfd3xBQ3Jtc0tsZDlhVnFzTUtUbnZ6ZVdTOHBIUUx6SjNqWklKRVRUd1RFczVlbmNFLWVtNmpqbFZURVpvY05nQ21Cb2pNaGhWU3VBV0ZDRWJiYnhHN0VwT3RBQ25VZkhrbC1IRXNTTnUzNHB1anNOVi04YThvTVdZcw&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Fdrive%2Ffolders%2F1bu8JpSMuYL-JnjjsiCa_g0XF_BU4e46D%3Fusp%3Dsharing&v=yTCFbHSmwjA

Thank you. Enjoy

As you can tell from the title of the video, there's a number there indicating a series. Be sure to check it out. Glad this helped. Thanks for the comment.

I used those extensions to reach from underneath where I knew the socket would seat on the bolt squarely and not round-off the head while torquing to spec. There's probably a better way, but that's how it worked for me. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.

​@NINJAof1 wow, I can't do it without some kind of angled extension. I have a 3/8 torque wrench, do you know what extensions I should order? Thanks.

@@theprodigal7143 Before torquing the 2 screws I used a small 1/4" hand driver with a 1/4" socket and inserted the Torx Bit. This was small enough to tighten by hand making it easier to torque in the next step. When torquing, I used 2 long and 1 short 3/8" extensions. I Attached the extensions to a 1/4" Inch Pound Torque Wrench using a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter. On the other end I attached a 3/8" Universal Joint socket adapter (Swivel), attached a 1/4" drive socket that was 1/4" in size, then the Torx Bit was inserted into the 1/4" socket. Between the extensions having loose play and the universal socket at the end, I was able to get a good seat and bite on the Torx screw by reaching under the right side of the inner fairing between the right fork and inner fairing. I used my left hand to loosely position and hold the universal adapter (near the top) in place as I torqued it. I know that sounds like a lot to do, but that's how I made it work. You can slow down the video to get a better look at how I did this. Hope that helps. thank you for the question.

@NINJAof1 I think I might need those extensions, lol. Not sure there's another way unless you take off triple tree, which would be a pain in the arse, hehe

Let me know if you do it a different way.Good luck.

@KINETIC_636 I very much appreciate the comment. Check out the build series in my playlist if you haven't already. Much more great content to come. Thank you.

@@magentacrayolas1585 I previously answered the same question below: Yes. You should always replace the header gaskets after removing and installing the exhaust. The gaskets are specifically designed to crush and seal the flanged end of the header pipes up against the engine exhaust header ports when applying the appropriate amount of torque as recommended by the Service Manual. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.

Thanks to your awesome tune.

You betcha... Thank you for the comment.

Uploading Barber Track Day footage on the ZX6R. You can see for yourself. Stay tuned. Thank you for the comment.

I did and I'm getting ready to upload the Barber Track Day today. Thank you for the comment.

You probably could, I haven't tried. I have seen other bikes swap fairings, but they were done on similar frames, but different models. Much work went into aligning fastener points of the fairings to the frame. It may not be worth the time it would take to modify. Anything is possible though. Thank you for the question.

@@NINJAof1 thank you for answer sir

ยินดีเป็นอย่างยิ่ง ขอบคุณสำหรับความคิดเห็น You are very welcome. Thank you for the comment.

No velocity stacks. I have a K&N Filter. Moore Mafia Dyno Tune. Stacks are a bit too pricey for little gain that I will probably never use. 4k invested in mods, that's enough for me. Thank you for the question.

@ReddyHHH210 Everybody else has an M4 and I like the way the Graves looks. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you for subscribing. I'm trying to convince Mama NINJAof1 to sell her 400, but she doesn't want to. I don't have any room in the garage for more than 5 bikes and I wouldn't ride the 4RR because it's too small for me. I'm going to keep trying. Kawasaki has $1,700.00 off msrp on the 4RR now. I think she's going to go for it. We'll see.

I saw that after I assembled the fairings. Good observation. Thank you.

You still have the CAT to contend with. I didn't want the original headers and then poke out the cat stuff and most importantly, I wanted to make sure the bike could go back to OEM if I ever sold it. You are correct on the little HP gained and that's why there won't be any additional performance mods (IE: Velocity Stacks, etc.). Hope that answers your question.

No velocity stacks. It's a bit too pricey for little gain that I will probably never use. 4k invested in mods, that's enough for me. Thank you for the question.

Thank you, Gracias. Just Subed.

Congratulations! 👍

Yes. You should always replace the header gaskets after removing and installing the exhaust. The gaskets are specifically designed to crush and seal the flanged end of the header pipes up against the engine exhaust header ports when applying the appropriate amount of torque as recommended by the Service Manual. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.

@NINJAof1 I wish I would have known. I have the same exhaust. Did yours come with the header gaskets, or did you buy them separately?

I bought those separate. Part numbers are in the description.

It works perfect. I hit a bump in the road. You can see it in the video. It kept the steering where i wanted it while in a curve. I have it set 6 clicks from loose. Still experimenting. Good question. Thank you.

Thank you.

Moore Mafia tuned the 'Rider 1' Mode. All the other modes are still there (Rider 2-4, Rain, Road, Sport). Hope that answers your question. Thank you.

I did not lose any riding Modes. Moore Mafia tuned the 'Rider 1' Mode. All the other modes are still there (Rider 2-4, Rain, Road, Sport). Hope that answers your question. Thank you.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Thank you.

I think that is a ZX10R. And it was a short, but no, it wasn't me.

I just looked online and multiple places have this Pillion Cowl (Part #: 99994-1116-777) available for different years of the KRT as well as the 40th. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.

I don't know either. I will say this though, the bike performs much better and is more responsive to my throttle inputs. Surprisingly, the brakes are very good and handle the increased power very well. I will probably never attempt a top speed on this bike, it does fine at speeds I'm comfortable with. Thank you for the question.