You will always lose spirit each time you run a still. I can't tell you the amount or percentage that will be lost as it will depend on the volume and ABV of your spirit and also what type of cuts you make. When you run in reflux mode for example, if you are doing your spirit run you will want to stop at or before it drops to 60% ABV as your tails will be soon behind it. If you do not make cuts and try to get everything out of it, you will get some nasty smells and tastes.

Agreed, many people love them for spirit distilling. It it is the same as somebody could slate Volvo cars (or any make) and many would agree with them, but many will disagree saying that Volvos are the best cars ever made. I personally do not like water distillers for processing ethanol. Since this video, I have used my water distiller twice with two different washes I made (one Kale, one Turbo Yeast) as some are right, how can I say they are not good when I haven't tried it myself. In all honesty, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but I did get a lot of off flavours (mainly from the turbo yeast) which I wasn't happy with. You could say that it is because I am used to the 95.5& ABV I get from my T500 column, so I am used to cleaner spirit. So, I compared it to the Air Still Pro running in pot still mode (which is the same as a standard Air Still) & the Alembic condenser on my 25 litre boiler. The water distiller did add in a lot more off flavours than I personally would be happy with compared to the other stills that I have.

Personally I think for stripping runs they will work a dream as it will get the ethanol out quick and fast due to the high wattage heating element they have.

Hi @mohammedabushoog4898. Each still has different abilities and suits different people. The T500 Reflux column is the only one that needs constant cool/cold water to allow it to work in reflux mode. It is though not automatic, you need to make minor adjustments on the amount of water going to it. The Air Still can only run in pot mode, but does not need a water supply, that keeps the condenser cool by a big fan on the top of it. The Air Still Pro can do pot and reflux modes, and like the Air Still uses a big fan to keep the condensers cool, it does not need a water supply. Does that answer your question?

The large 25 litre boiler isn't a T500. Sadly Still Spirits named them badly. So, Still Spirits released a 25 litre boiler which is called the 'T500' boiler. The condenser on the top is actually called the 'Turbo 500', but everybody just calls it the T500. So now you have people talking about their T500, but you are not sure if they are meaning a boiler, a condenser or both! In my video, the 25 litre boiler is made by a UK company called Love Brewing (under the brand 'Spirit Works'). Like the T500 boiler it has 2.2kw of heating power. What makes this model different though is that it has a temperature controller computer built into it, so you can set a temperature and it will get the contents to that temperature, and hold it there. This is very useful as you can brew your wash in the boiler. To answer your other question, which T500 column should you buy, Stainless or Copper, that is difficult to answer. Getting as much copper in the path of ethanol vapours is always a good thing. But it costs extra money to buy the copper version. Personally I would buy the stainless steel one, and use the money you saved to buy some Copper SPP and put that in as packing instead of some of the standard stainless steel packing that came with the T500. That will give you more copper and will also help give you ever so slightly higher ABV (so purer output).

Everybody will have their own thoughts on this. Some will quote 'scientific facts' that they read on a web site. Personally I think that the copper should go in at the bottom, so the vapour hits it first, before it gets to the stainless steel. The T500 column and the Air Still are both loaded so the vapour hits the steel first, then reaches the copper last. This may be because they think this is the proper way, or could be because the copper is so small and they worry about them falling out when the customer opens the unit up. But, as I said, people will give their own thoughts of which way round it should be. I have not done a test spirit run with them in both directions to see if I could smell or taste a difference, and to honest, IF there was a difference, I don't think there would be much in it and my taste buds would probably not be able to tell the difference.

I can assure you that it is not an advert in any way.

Hi, sorry for my late reply. I have three questions for you. 1. How old is your Air Still? 2. How often a month (or year) do you use it? 3. Where do you store the Air Still when it is not used? (meaning, in a shed, garage, loft, back bedroom...) The only two things that I can think of is that either the lid's rubber gasket is upside down (which will mean it can't hold in the pressure correctly), or that the rubber gasket needs replacing as it isn't rubbery enough (as rubber gets old it can start to get too firm). If the rubber isn't as rubbery, then it won't create a full and proper seal, so when the pressure builds up inside the boiler, it will not be able to hold the lid down. I hope that helps.

@@brewingadvice Thanks for your reply. I've had the Air Still around 5 months and had used it 10 times when I wrote this post. I have since just started running it with only 2.5 litres of liquid in it, and nothing else -- no ceramics and no oil. It's behaving itself now. So I'll continue to run it just with 2.5 litres. It's a shame it doesn't really do the 4 litres it's supposed to, but it is what it is.

As you have only had it for 5 months, I would highly recommend reaching out to Still Spirits. The still would come with a warranty and it is not working as it should. Personally I think being forced to run it with only 2.5 litres of liquid is not good and it will really slow you down if your washes are the standard 25 litres. Hopefully Still Spirits will be able to assist you.

That is an extremely good idea, and one that I wished I had thought about before I made my measuring jugs and made this video! ;-) So ironic as I make bread by hand every week and when I measure out the water, I always weigh the water, I never level it in a measuring jug! Many thanks for the comment.

You are welcome. Thanks for the vids - very useful. Keep up the good work!

You could actually keep the basket and the packing all inside if you wanted to, am sure many people have. My thoughts are how I like to do it. But, you need to find your own way and what you are happy to do. Hope you like your Air Still Pro.

Hi, @mohammedabushoog4898, I am sorry, but not quite sure what you mean. Are you talking about the copper SPP that I mentioned, or something else?

@@brewingadvice yes

@@brewingadvice I mean the saddles in the copper

​@@mohammedabushoog4898 ah ok. So yes, I advise people to take out the stainless steel and copper packing that comes with the Air Still Pro, and replace it with Copper SPP (Spiral Prismatic Packing). Good quality Copper SPP will give you better quality spirit as when you run the still in Reflux mode, it will help with the refluxing. The extra copper will also help to reduce sulphur in your spirit. Lastly the ABV of your spirit will go up a little as a result. The down side of SPP is that it is expensive. While I do not know where you are in the world, an example of what it looks like and where you can buy it from is here (although, please note I do not know this seller, I do not know anybody who has bought from them, I found them after I just Googled Copper SPP) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144076726074?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=443378087612&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A17jhWgGV1QfedjpuKbV2IyA81&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=443378087612_144076726074&targetid=1647205088520&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006492&poi=&campaignid=21201249047&mkgroupid=169747432708&rlsatarget=pla-1647205088520&abcId=9406425&merchantid=6995734&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwvIWzBhAlEiwAHHWgvdfSb4xHGvBGvhfqf9OjaPVQxYbIPIyD62OC5WuYVKD4taVTnZQOjxoCgYMQAvD_BwE I hope that helps to answer your question.

@user-ob3qc6mc9x, it does sounds like limescale. How hard is the water in your area?

Hi @NullaNulla, I must admit I have not seen an Air Still that had a copper extraction tube. I wonder if it was a really early version. I wanted to create my own project where an ESP32 would monitor the temps, then control (as you suggest) two stepper motors to adjust the needle valves for the cooling water. It is still something that I want to do, but sadly I have other projects that are higher up in my priority list. Yes, to reduce the amount of waste is a very good thing. I pour my crud around my damson trees (I do the same with the coffee grind from my been to cup machine).

Glad you enjoyed it

Hi @karlosss1868, thank you for your message. I use 'Fullers Earth' calcium bentonite which is sort of green/brown. Sometimes I need 1 dose, other times 2. When I first tried bentonite, I did use boiling hot water to hydrate the bentonite, but I then tried cold tap water, and found that I got quicker hydration rate with cold water. I haven't though tried using a blender. Yes, am sure that will speed up the hydration time as it it being moved around so fast. I brew out of a fridge, and have tried cold crashing to 3c for 5 days, but like you, not a great deal of the yeast fell.

@@brewingadvice Thx... Your video has motivated me to write down some future tests to do. Will drop you another message when I have any info. I've read some people add about 2 teaspoons at the very start of a wash. I haven't tried that yet and not sure I will if I can get the results I used to. I got onto bentonite when the Turbo Clear I was using stopped being anywhere as good as it once was.

@@karlosss1868, you are more than welcome. Many wine kits come with a small amount of bentonite which they say to at the beginning. I have not tried it myself with a spirit wash, but it would be interesting to see if it helps, and how much.

Hi @iplayhertz. The reason why some Turbo Yeast manufacturers say not to use an airlock is because their yeast is so fast as producing CO2. The sheer volume of gas produced will push most (if not all) of the water in the airlock out the end. This then leaves you with an airlock with no water inside it. This will not only create a mess, but could blow the top off some airlocks, resulting in possible contamination.

Hi. I think the copper dome may be stronger as you say due to how much the dome has been pushed out. The steel lid only has a slight curve, so would not be as strong. I use both lids on my extended T500 column, and have never had no issues. But, it used to worry my that the standard stainless steel lid would cave in.

Depends on how good the advert is. For this video though, no advert. All my stills are mine, nothing to do with Still Spirits and I would be surprised if they even know my channel (or myself to that point) exist. I have never been given anything for free or at a discount to make a video or do a review on it. This and all my videos are my personal thoughts.

Many thanks for that.

That I was not aware of.

Thank you for your kind words. I am sorry though, when I started my voice was very boring. I hope that I am getting better! To answer your question, there may/will be small amounts of methanol in a sugar wash. It is difficult to say how much, so most people will throw away the first 100-250ml during their Spirit Run.

I know, I know. I am the same when I make bread, I like to be very precise over the ingredients. There is no need to be that concerned, it is just want I do!

Hi Ryan, sadly I can't answer your question as it all depends on the ingredients used, the final ABV of the wash and the volume of the wash. It also depends if you are making a neutral spirit, or making a gin, rum, whisky or other flavoured drink. Then you have if you are running it in Pot or Reflux mode. Sadly, too many factors, so the hearts area will be different volumes for every different type of wash used.

@@brewingadvice Thanks for the reply and response - new to this and what you stated explains a few things I was seeing with different washes. I was referring to a clean up run in reflux of a ginger beer was I like to use - I strip in pot still mode then charge for a spirit run around 38%. I find the still shuts down with 10-20percent left in there most times . Not sure on the why - but has to do with the sensor it runs most likely. Anyway I appreciate the feed back.

Hi @RyanW20207, When you run in either Pot or Reflux mode, it will never extract 100% of the alcohol from your wash. I don't honestly know what percent will be left in the boiler as I have never tested it. The issue is that what is left in the boiler won't be really clean, so, an alcometer won't be accurate. If you are distilling a beer, the ABV would be around 4-6% ABV (on average). So, that wouldn't get you a great deal of spirit. Reading that you said the still shuts down, I am assuming you have the Air Still Pro, as that is the only still that I know that when in reflux mode, it switches itself off. If I am correct, then this may be a flaw in the still design rather than something that you are or are not not doing.

Very interesting. I wonder if the restriction is because it is a needle valve. Needle valves by design are very precise. What sort of valve did you switch it to?

To be honest I don't know. Every temperature sensor has a minimum and maximum. I would be very surprised if KegLand used a temperature sensor that can't go over 65C. It might be a good idea to drop them an email to see if this is expected behaviour.

Sorry about that. To be honest, all I did was tip it upside down and then inserted a wooden chopstick and wiggled it around a bit.

I hope you enjoy your new Air Still. Take your time, learn and enjoy the Turbo Yeasts. Once you are ready, do try a sugar wash like a Kale or Tomatoe Paste Wash, but take your time, don't rush it.

Stepping up to the T500 is a learning curve but makes a MASSIVE difference to the output/product, ESPECIALLY if you start double distilling.

@NullaNulla, I do agree. I really like the Air Still, used mine for many years. But, seeing the improvement in spirit from the T500 is quite a shock.

Some will do no cuts, while others would. I for example make my neutral spirit from my 25 litre boiler/reflux column. I then macerate my botanicals, then will throw them and the spirit into my Air Still and will power it up. The first part coming out will be too heavy, so will be thrown away. I will then take cuts every 100ml, and will do this until the ABV reaches 20% or when I notice there is no flavour. I then leave the cuts in sealed jars over night, then will sample them the next day. Sometimes all of the jars will go into the final drink, other times I may choose only 5 out of the 8. I think it all depends on what ingredients you use and the quantities.

@@brewingadvice soo, in other words while you may prefer additional flexibility, this would in fact be a perfectly reasonable tool to make a rather large range of redistilled products that don't necessarily require much in cuts, like geists, gin, absinthe, akvavit, ouzo etc? However, prob not well suited for making the base spirits. I think that's a rather important clarification one could have made.

Hi @AarreLisakki, I think it all depends on the wattage power of the water distiller and what you are happy with quality wise. Many people hate the Air Still as they say that it produces awful quality spirit and you need to go to a bigger 25 litre 'proper boiler'. I personally don't like the idea of a water distiller as the heating element are very high. But, as you can see from some of the other comments here, many people love their water distiller and are happy with the quality of spirit that it produces. Are you ask, the quality may be very noticeable on some drinks you produce and not so noticeable on others. While very random, I for one would never buy a brand new car. The cars I buy are typically 1-3 years old. I think it is a waste of money buying a new car as they lose value too quickly. Some of my friends will only ever buy a new car, and will do so every 3 years. Then, I have other friends who will buy cars that are 8+ years old. Which one of us is right and who is wrong? We all have different thoughts and reasons why we do what we do. What suites one person won't be right for everybody. So, to take this back to distilling, personally I wouldn't recommend a water distiller. If somebody is starting out and they want a small still, then I would recommend an Air Still (doesn't matter who made it, it could be Still Spirits, or could be a cheaper copy). If somebody wants to spend even less and buy a water distiller, then by all means do. I hope that you will be happy with the quality. I would though hate somebody to start this hobby and buy something that they are not happy with, and that they think that everything will taste that way, and then they never do it again. If somebody has a water distiller and loves it, then carry on. I am sorry that I am dissing what you like to use. I though have been contacted by too many people who asked me why their spirit smells so bad and how they can improve it to not say anything.

@@brewingadvice oh, agreed, warning people considering buying them that they run way too 'hot' and inflexibly for general usecase is important! But given the reaction, it may be that there's still a reasonable use for them for some of the drinks. I would hope people repurposing a device clearly not marketed for distilling any alcohol would understand they're taking a gamble as to how well that experiment might end up.

Hi @AarreLisakki, yes, I would have to agree with you. Most things in life can be used to do different things, but, as you say, you need to understand the limitations and issues as a result of using it for something that it is not intended for. While yes, I could have said that in the video, my issue is than so many people jump in and buy things like this without fully appreciating the problems, then shout at the KZbinr that it is their fault as they said it 'should' be ok.

Hi Andy, Sure thing. I think the MyVodkaMaker machine is outstanding. I have seen the design plan, or at least how it works (from a previous version). The science behind it, while I could follow it, I couldn't really comprehend how it could work so well. I think the down side is that it is very slow. But, to have a system that you can plug in and ignore it for a few days and know the end result is good clean spirit, well, you wouldn't need anything else. For somebody like me who likes to experiment, it is no good. For somebody who wants to make a flavoured spirit, no good. But, if you want a clean spirit to make a vodka, or to add flavoured essences (like Still Spirits make), then this is ideal. I think the distilling community is split between those who don't want to play or experiment, who just want to add a sachet of flavouring to get a nice drink (I did this for 7 years). Then those who want to make a drink from raw ingredients, or those who like to tinker with equipment. To sum up, I would very much like to have a MyVodkaMaker for a few months, to actually see it working and to taste the end result. I wouldn't though want to buy one as it isn't something that I would use once my initial testing has completed.

@@brewingadvice I can see where you're coming from on that one, the Plus model however, allows for more tinkering, and can allow for much lower ABVs and inclusion of fusel oils etc, it's specifically designed for whisky/rum/brandy etc. I have my plus running on a TPW wash right now, I'm getting 92% ABV although a 25 litre wash takes about 48 hours to run through, It produces approx. 1/2 a ml per second. I have a rum wash almost finished fermenting, and I plan on running than next to see how that works out. Bearded and Bored ran a rum wash through his plus model, and said it was good enough to drink straight from the still.

I had one as well but I sold it and bought this still

Thank you for letting me know about the Plus model and what it can do. I did not know that it could do that.

And what do you think are the Pros and Cons of the two units?

I used my Air Still as my only still for over 8 years and loved it. I then moved to the T500 boiler with T500 reflux column. Now, I use the T500 for producing ethanol, then the Air Still when I make a gin.

Hi @sunsidejd, thank you for your kind words. I did write a parts list as had a few people email me asking for one. So, as you have requested it, I have added it to the description of the video. Can you please check the full description out to see the parts list.

I agree. What we want is a 25 litre boiler that has an air cooled condenser. I think one can be made, but the size of the heatsink and speed of the fans would be so great, it would cost a lot to run and be very load. Is a shame.

@@brewingadvice I almost think it could be possible but considering DIYing an air cooled solution would be a nightmare. I'm surprised Vevor hasn't come up with anything for it yet - they have dabbled into both air stills and pot stills. I have their 25L two pot distiller and it works fine for what it is, but again it's connecting the hob to the sink isolating anything useful in my kitchen. If Vevor still made the dirt cheap water stills you could add voltage controllers to, Id happily have an army of those right now instead.

I have a 4 litre water distiller that I want to install a 4,000W power controller to it. It would then be my dedicated gin still. I just need to find the time to do it.

Sorry to hear that @IrvingtonArms. If you don't mind me asking, what part of the Velcro broke? Did it come unglued from the heat wrap?

@@brewingadvice The buckle part pulled off. I used a few zip ties to hold it on. I think I'll get a few bungie chords to hold it in the future.

That is not good. I will keep an eye on my two to see if they show any symptoms of what happened to yours.

Hi, that I am. I would like to apologise though. This video is over 2 years old and it was when I was just starting out. Boy am I monotone and boring! So yes, while I didn't explain it well, I had 6 odd litres of ethanol which was around 92% ABV. I then added around 14 litres of water so that it would be nice and diluted. You don't need to add that much water, as you mentioned, you just need to get it to or below 40% ABV.

Hi @patrickandkennafenwick3958, Every column runs a little differently and is something you need to learn, how your still like it. Are you running with the T500 column? I assume you are. So, my copper T500 likes it a fair bit hotter than my steel one. The type of packing and how tight the packing also can alter how well it works. Generally though, if you pack it too tightly you will have more chance of a puke than it running slowly. My ground water is around 12c normally. If yours is 0c, then that is very cold indeed. I am not sure if it would cause a problem though. The water going through the product condenser doesn't care if it is 0c or 40c, as long as it is able to condense all of the vapours going through it. The coil inside the reflux condenser will be affected greatly by the temperature. The lower the temperature, the more refluxing and the less product that will be able to get to the product condenser. If though you say the output water temperature is 60c, that is in a good range, so is not too cold at all. You must though have the water going through at a very slow rate for it to go from 0c to 60c. While I am sure you don't want to, I think it would be a good idea to get all of the packing out of the column and then re-pack it again. When was the last time you cleaned the packing, how many runs has it been since the last clean? Good clean packing will help greatly in the quality of the product coming out. When you re-pack, don't tap, knock or hit the side of the T500 to try to get more packing in. You want it nice and loose. Often you will have some spare that doesn't want to go back in. This is perfectly normal, you never know, the next time you re-pack it, it might go back in again! Give that a try, then do let me know how you go.

Hi @Timbershades. To be honest, I made that wash nearly 3 years ago. I have learnt a lot since then, and if the same thing happened today, I would not have thrown it away. Back then, I was used to my washes clearing to look like water. So, when this wash would not clear, I believed that there was clearly (no pun intended) something wrong with it. If that happened today, I would throw in some bentonite and left it a few days to clear. If it still wasn't clear after 4 days, I may put more bentonite in (after racking it off), or I would just put it in my boiler and reflux distil it. My setup produces 95.5% ABV ethanol, so I don't need to worry about a wash not being perfect. If I run anything through it twice, it will be nice and clean. I didn't have this setup back then though, nor the experience that I also have now. Depending on how much you experiment when doing this hobby, you can learn a lot very quickly.

Yes temperature is a big issue. In the link you gave, Jessie explains that you can send too much vapour to the condenser (as a result of too much power/heat), and this can cause some vapour not to condense when it comes out. IF you have a water distiller that does not get too hot and can condense everything, and you are using this for stripping runs, then it will be fine. I personally wouldn't recommend them for spirit runs though as they usually run way too fast.

If you are happy with your Vevor and it works well, then that is great. You have saved a lot of money over buying an Air Still or something similar. No, I have not tried my water distiller with alcohol, the reason why is because I have heard far too many people who have tried and it failed badly for them. I have also been contacted by many people who bought one and who were very upset with wasting money over the bad quality ethanol that came out, and they asked me how they can fix it. I advised those who did buy one to run their spirit through it 3 or 4 times as after each run it will get a little cleaner. This is why I don't need to try it myself. My water distiller, I bought it so I could install an SCR and a microcontroller so that it would be my dedicated gin machine where I could program it to run how I want to distil gin.

I am not aware of any counter top distillers that are not made in China. Most things these days are made in China. Australia are very good at producing many things, but sadly it just isn't cost effective to make a lot of things locally compared to the lower cost in China.

Hope you enjoy it!

Thank you for your message!

I have used one before yes, about 5 years ago. It was advertised as a patio/shed heater. It was ok, but I found that it was a little slow to heat up and since it heated the air rather than the fermentation container itself, it took a long time to get to temperature. I think it all depends on where you are brewing and in what container. If for example you are doing it in a 5 litre glass demijohn, a heat pad will probably be best. If you are brewing in a fridge or other tight chamber, then really you can use anything, they are all much the same. My only two concerns are if the heater is to high a wattage, so may heat the wart too quickly, or if it takes too long to heat. It also depends if you are using a temperature controller to only switch on the heat source if it is needed, or it it is on 24/7.

Really, I have several in my brewery and find them ok. I will be interested to try the Kegland Heat Wrap. Did I hear you correct and say it can't be overlapped?@@brewingadvice

@@DrunkDelilahBrewery, heat tubes may be very good and perfect for brewing fridges. It is possible that the one I bought wasn't a good quality one. In answer to your question, yes, on the instruction sheet it does say that you must not wrap it over itself. I think they are worried about it over-heating. For a standard 25-30 litre brewing bucket or carboy, it should be fine size wise.

Hi, I do have the RAPT Temp Controller from KegLand and was using it with the heat Wrap if that is the temperature controller that you are meaning. I am very impressed with the RAPT Temp Controller and also the PILL. If you use the PILL as the sensor, the Temp Controller as the controller and the Heat Wrap as the heater, the three together makes one awesome setup. The only way you can improve that is to put it inside a working fridge. That way it can cool and heat the wart and you can setup profiles of what to do and when, then for it to email you once your brew is done. I have two of all three units, and in the next couple of weeks will be ordering two new 6ft high fridges for them.

Good luck with your new hobby, I hope you have many years of fun experimenting.

That is great. The Air Still and Air Still Pro are great products. It all depends on what you want to do, how long you want to take doing it and also what space and utilities you have access to (like water). I tend to only use my Air Still when I make a Gin. I use my Air Still Pro in reflux mode when I need to get some 90%+ spirit quickly. Otherwise I will use my Alembic Pot head and condenser for Stripping runs and the T500 for Spirit runs. It is a lot of equipment to have around and takes up a lot of space. That is what is good with the Air Still Pro, in that it can do everything for you for very little effort. The only reason I don't use it all of the time is the small 4 litres capacity. When I do a run (whatever type of run), I want to do it in one go. That is what is great about our hobby, we all have the option to do it our way, even if it doesn't make sense as there are simpler ways. Enjoy doing what you do.

Good luck. Please let me know how you go. Kegland are looking into other ways to switch it off by use of the accelerometer. One idea they have is if the Pill is shacked for a few seconds it puts it to a sleep mode. They have many great ideas, the Pill and Temp Controller will get better over time I am sure (even though it is really good now!)

@@brewingadvice I figured out that I didn’t have the battery facing the correct way and I didn’t have it pushed all the way down inside the tube so that was causing it to float more on its side. I’ve got it all calibrated now and might be using it as soon as tonight! Thanks for the advice 😎👍🏼

Hi @@Norseman2 , I hope this went well for you.

@@brewingadvice yes it is, thanks. I’m watching it daily in my fermenter and things are going great 😎👍🏼

So glad you found it helpful. Thank you for letting me know.

Hi @tedbullpit6164, Sadly no, this will not do that. It will send electricity to the heat socket when the temperature is low, but it will turn off the power once it reaches temperature. You could set the heat differential to 0.1C so that it doesn't switch of off for too long, but it will still turn it off for a few seconds to a few hours. The time it will be turned off for depends on many factors.

Thank you for your comment. So glad it helped.