Yep and now they're all mostly using capacitors from HK Film Capacitor company from Honk Kong China.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity I have placed up to 6uf in that encapsulation, surprised to see 20 uf in such a small space. Incredible how compact the size is.

Can you email me a picture of what you're after. [email protected]

The Cod 1.1 is either the version of software on the chips inside or the code for remote control for communication purposes so the two units match up and talk to each other. I can get you one here and ship it there, but they're kind of pricey for what they are and I'm sure shipping might be on the high side as well.

I do not unfortunately. There's also some sort of inductor inside I believe as well. I did make an extension cable for one for a couple of customers about 5 years ago, but it didn't work with the bars and scale because there's an inductor of some sort for signal strength on the current bars, and they didn't tell me that and of course that's why it didn't work and they wouldn't tell me what size or where the inductor could be bought, so I just stopped offering that on the HD5T bars. Older model bars, a lot easier to take care of on the connectors

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCitythanks for the response. I have a chewed example here but think the inside should be okay will try cut into it and see what I can find 👀

@@mervynpowell9384 All I can say is good luck getting through all the epoxy inside and being able to see anything useful. You might try calling up whoever your distributor is or the main hub there is in England/Europe for Tru-Test or Datamars and call them up. You'll likely have to send the bar to them though and let them put a new connector on it, they won't tell you how to do it over the phone, that's the same with us here. Luckily I have the pin out for their older bars still in my files.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity managed to get in, looks like it’s a 3k3 from pin 5 to pin 7 and then wire link between 6 & 7. No inductor as a component that I can see. Will update you after I’ve ordered connectors etc if they work. Do you have links to the cable and connectors you use? They don’t look like anthenol ecomates?

@@mervynpowell9384 Maybe they've changed things up, but that inductor thing was told to me by from someone at Tru-Test, so I was basing it off that as well. The ecomate one is just a branding name from the Amphenol company. They also make a solid black one that isn't branded ecomate. There's also the brand called Hirshmann that makes a similar all black connector that can be used the same as well. Just shop around from wherever you can get the cheapest price from. On the 3.3 k ohm I would get a 1/2 watt resistor version of it even if it was only using a 1/4 Watt size, the cost between the two sizes is barely different usually.

Unfortunately no it can't be operated with one safely. Also about 3-4 years ago, the only company that was still making/supplying the 3 & 4 prong weed choppers to all the stores and such stopped. They stated that the demand wasn't there anymore. There hasn't been a weed chopper type of unit made in 40+ years, so anything that's a weed chopper unit you find is at least that old or older, most times 50-60 years old. You're best bet to maybe find a chopper is eBay, but make sure you're sitting down, very expensive nowadays. Search 3 prong weed chopper or 4 prong weed chopper and see what you find. But once those last choppers are sold and gone, that's the end of them.

I'm not sure what the blue block thing is inside. Is this a SE-5 or Mark 5 unit? Either way it's repairable.

They've made some changes to their boards the last year or so, and got rid of those features. The board on the newer ones look nothing like the last version. They had some issues with the newest version boards early on and I think that back and forth feature was messing with the other electronics inside and so they got rid of them. They're working on coming out with a new solar unit at some point in time, so I imagine the new model, wherever it comes out, will have some features built in again.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you very much for clarifying that for me👍

They're newer/current models are junk compared their 15+ year old stuff.

Visiting a manufacturer many years ago, in the engineering department I saw many open equipment from other manufacturers. When I asked if they were reviewing their design, they told me NO, we are reviewing whether they use our designs for their equipment. 😂

I sent a reply to your other comment.

I'm not 100% sure. Could you email me at [email protected] with a picture pointing at the part and maybe I can figure it out from there. I don't know what part is U1.

I'm going to have to call the manufacture up and ask. Are you sure it's actually bad? Find a multimeter that has the uF -)|- capacitance testing feature on it and unplug it from the board and test across it. I don't honestly think I've ever had to replace one of those on it before.

You're welcome

They're pretty good models for sure. We don't see them as often as in the past when they were still production models.

It's organized chaos. I set tools aside and such, but they're things I use the most of, so they're always there.

No unfortunately they're basically stuck at what they are. You could try and some more strands to take up the space where the cat has to work a little harder to get through.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity thank you for your quick reply! I will do that then. I am sure he will learn eventually 🤣

I'm not super familiar with the Nemtek stuff because they're not sold here in the United States. I would call up Nemtek directly or whoever your place is you bought it from. www.nemtek.co.za/product-category/commercial-security/commercial-energizers/

It is no longer a production model. It's 15-20+ years old if you can find one and no parts are made for it any longer.

What exact model of gallagher did you buy? The only 400 models I know of have other letters in front of that, so I don't know which one you have exactly. Here are those model names and their power. Gallagher M400, old discontinued model from 20 years ago 2.5 joule output. Gallagher S400, solar unit made today 3 +/- joule output Gallagher MBS400, multi AC/DC powered unit still made today with 3 joule output. I don't know any other of their models with the 400 model name. Are you mistaken on the exact model name?

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you. S400

@@judymyers9552 Oh ok, that's around 3+/- output joules and a very reliable unit. So if you want to use a gallagher lightning diverter with that unit, you can use it.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you.

No repair done, but if you read the description of the video.... Test & Review and that's what you got.

Overpriced hype is the Speedrite stuff. I've had a few come in, a couple within warranty and a couple just outside. One had gotten ants into it through where the battery wire goes into the case of the unit. There's a small air gap space around that opening where the battery wire goes into the housing, perfect dark area for the ants to go and try and make their home. The ants damaged the board and the manufacture wouldn't cover the warranty even though this unit is meant to be outside.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity thanks man! The guy at the hard ware store talked me into ordering the solar 1000 speed right just in spite cause Parmak was so rude to us lol 😂 hopefully it last longer than the 2 weeks my Parmak did. If not I’ll Just send it to you to fix ! Thanks for the videos !

I'm a one man show and I miss plenty of calls that come through from people and I don't always catch the emails. You'll have a hard time today though getting a hold of me, family day.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity i found a circuit and repaired my energizer . Your video did show me i can repair my own rather than buy a new one . thanks .

I still have a small fan clamped on my shelf pointed at my face. I've had that fan for about 10 years. I don't use it all the time, but use it throughout the day.

I don't unfortunately. I've never had to work on one those before. Are you located here in the States or somewhere else? If you're located here in the States, I could get you the number to their main hub here to chat with someone.

Hi, we're chatting back and forth easier with the email you sent.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Hi, Yes, We discus via e-mail. Thank you for your help.

No the output transformer spikes the voltage from around 400+/- volts up to 9,000+/- volts

Complaining about a 3 1/2 year old video. Watch this video instead kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2KsnIWwoKqhbbc

Are you talking about the large blue capacitors stacked side by side, or somewhere else inside? Those large blue capacitors don't go bad all that often, so that scorch mark you're seeing might be cosmetic from something else near by that blew. If one of those large blue capacitors are indeed bad, it won't cause the output fuse on the right hand side to blow, so there's likely something else that's wrong causing it. The only sure way to know if that capacitor is bad is to test the (uF) microfarads of the capacitor with a multimeter that can test capacitance.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity It's one of the big ones. It's scorched around one of the terminals and the wire on the terminal is melted.

@@bigmac51290 Does it have anything that's supposed to be plugged onto it? Like a small circuit board, some small resistor/diode soldered together, or just wires?

@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity the wire directly links the capacitor to the transformer. Edit: I just plugged it in with the case apart and found a capacitor in the other pair arcing at the circuit board. So, in one pair of capacitors there is a scorched capacitor. In the other pair of capacitors there is arcing at the board

Thanks for finding my channel. I've got 900+ videos of on my channel of all sorts of repairs. Mostly electric fence units and livestock scales and load bars.

I'm not sure what capacitor yours has, but if you send me a picture to my email, [email protected], I might be able to help you out.

99% of the fence chargers built in the 35-40 years have been low impedance, and that particular one is.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Awesome, thank you so much!

Depending on what size joule unit you get. If it's a lower joule one in the Hero or Stallion model then possibly 4) 3' might work. But again it might not be if you go with a higher joule unit 5+ joules. You shouldn't have to cut any wire inside with the 12v version, they don't have that same set up on the input side like the AC ones do and even then, I wouldn't cut that wire, I would just add more ground rods. There's really only one correct way to test the ground system, and you're 50% there. The only other thing you have to do first is after everything is wired up and ready to go, walk down your fence line and take with you a handful of metal rods, leftover metal fence post, some pieces of metal pipe, some sticks of rebar or a combination of all the above. Walk down 200' or so on your fence, then test the voltage at the fence for a reference, ex: 8kv. Then stick over of those metal piece into the ground an inch or so and lay it up on the fence wire and retest the fence voltage, it should go down some. You want to lay as many as you need to in the line until you get that voltage on the fence to be 2kv or less, so it may take a few rods against the fence to get it to go down that low. Once that voltage on the fence is at 2kv or less, leave them on there, walk back to your ground system, and put the fence part of your fence tester on the last ground rod and the ground probe of your tester in the dirt. Depending on what joule rated your unit is, any model under 15 joules, the voltage on the ground system should be 0.3kv or less. If it's over that amount of kv, you need more ground rods. Make sure to space them 10' a part. Get longer ones if you can, 6' ones would be ideal and drive them in as deep as you can, deeper the better. You can never have too many ground rods and the ground system is the most important thing to the whole fence system, it's what ties everything together. So don't try and save a handful of dollars by going skimpy on the ground system, that's they one part of the fence system you don't want to try and save a couple of dollars on.

I think I might've stated that in this video or in another video. I ordered 12 each of the 12v & 6v boards about a year ago or so and out of the 24 boards I ordered, 8 of the 12v boards were junk out of the box and I think 4 of the 6v boards were junk out of the box. I think they may have fixed a few flaws with their current version of these new style boards because since, I would say last year sometime, all the ones I've ordered and received haven't failed out of the box and so far haven't had any call backs on a unit failing (fingers crossed). They did remove/disable the function of the needle gauge going back and forth 3 times like the previous version boards had and their early version boards of these newer boards had. They go straight into clicking along. So we'll just have to see how these hold up long/short term.

Hopefully they'll hold up, I've been telling customers to call PARMAK and complain about their brand new $320 charger being junk. I was replacing the board with the old style board (581-3) but I've run out of them and ordered more back on April 4th and still waiting for them.

Hopefully.... Time will tell. I just hate that they semi rushed these things through without a lot of real world testing and relying on the customers to be the guinea pig for the testing. I'm sure they did some testing there in house, but I guess not quite enough.

Are you testing the fence charger all by itself with no wires connected?

I think I explained most of the info in the video, not what order info do you want?

Hi go to www.batterysharks.com and type in 6v 14aH battery. Parmak doesn't make that battery themselves. The website I'm showing sells batteries at wholesale even if you want to order just one.

I just worked on a Parmak SE-5 that was a 2013 model with all factory parts from 2013, so sometimes we get a semi older one that's never been touched

Yes