Nice Video! I did the same a year ago, same setup. And as I see you also had some trouble with micro grooves in the axes which sometimes causes the stone to stop a bit too quickly. I then investigated it a bit further and came to the conclusion that with the axes I used (from the CNC - 3D printer world) the desired precision (ISO 29140 grade 1) could not be achieved properly. Perhaps the method I used to determine this precision can also be of use to you? See kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqaqnIl-fpuYl9E
@garysgarage10118 күн бұрын
Thank you for dropping by. I really enjoy your channel, amazing work with such a small mill and lathe. In the mean time, I have acquired a cast iron balancing jig that I will do a follow up on.
@TobaccoTooling2 ай бұрын
What’s that I beam shaped stock called? Where can I purchase some to make parallels? Thanks for the video! 🤙🏻
@garysgarage1012 ай бұрын
Those are chunks of tool steel that were machined to shape.
@jjgag6012 ай бұрын
I have a small project to weld on Cast Iron and was interested in watching you. How did you get away with not pre heating the metal and then allow it to cool down slowly. Is that old school and the new nickel rods do a better job?
@garysgarage1012 ай бұрын
Wasn’t an issue at all. It may be due to the small size. Larger items would benefit from pre-heat however if you read the literature from some nickel manufacturers they say no pre-heat necessarily.
@tomt95433 ай бұрын
I use Cronatron 211 nickel electrodes to repair cast iron, and I’ve found that they run much better on AC current! That totally goes against all the logic that typically applies to stick welding, but it sure works! But your 110 probably doesn’t have an AC option. And go to Harbor Freight and buy a chipping hammer!
@ww66093 ай бұрын
Please use a wire brush on your grinder for better removal of slag for better metal fusion :)
@garysgarage1013 ай бұрын
Great idea. I wasn’t able to get it all off with the brush, very stubborn.
@ww66093 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 Most welders use wire brush wheels when the power is available :) Also, bring your heat wayyy back and you wont blow through your metal with the arc. That cast Iron is extremely conductive and soft.
@garysgarage1013 ай бұрын
@@ww6609 That’s great to know. I tried welding a chunk of cast iron to mild steel yesterday and found increasing the heat (to 120A on 1/8 electrode) was worse. Went back down to 100A, was more manageable but found the bead to be quite tall.
@ww66093 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 At that point you are cross welding and you would want to use Tungsten Inert Gas welding over SMAW. TiG is really fun and was originally made for cross welding aluminum and titanium for the SR71 Blackbird's leading edge. Supersonic is hot enough to melt aluminum. I'd say practice and mess around with each setting individually on extra material with your SMAW machine so you can learn how your machine behaves. Each one has its own soul. btw, striking the flux electrode can be easier to start (DO NOT HAVE IT IN THE MACHINE WHEN YOU DO THIS!!!) if you tap the tip with your welders hammer or a sharp surface to expose the smallest of the filler metal for an easier start.
@radiusnorth16754 ай бұрын
Thanks for the reply. Perhaps I just have a faulty 5 volt ac to dc adapter, will have to check. This is somewhat new to me so just to be clear you made the connection to the ES-19 at the two wire terminals marked 5 volts on the back of the display. My unit didn't so much as light up when I did this. Thanks for your time and video.
@stevetaylor24454 ай бұрын
Very interested in your dro Any plans available?
@radiusnorth16754 ай бұрын
I hope you can help me again as I'm trying to duplicate the set up you are using on your grinder. Having gotten the components, I realize I don't know what to use as a power source and how and where it connects to the system. ( no instructions on either component ).And perhaps a second question, .... will the Easson ES-19 be able to accurately display the very fine increments the scale is capable of? Thanks again.
@garysgarage1014 ай бұрын
I believe this is what I sourced on ebay: Item info AC-DC 5V 3A 15W Power Supply Buck Converter Step Down Module High Quality USA
@joeeh62324 ай бұрын
What's the point of a video devoted largely to deburring? Focus on what's unique.
@radiusnorth16755 ай бұрын
Thanks again for your time. I have been inspired by your set-up as I have a very similar grinder (Targa brand). Just before I order from the sources you supplied, I'm hoping you can clarify which iteration of the DRO you chose? there seems to be a few variations available, .. ttl standard, ttl with RS232, RS422 standard and another one I can't recall at the moment. I'm assuming you are still happy with your configuration and frankly those various designations are beyond my knowledge at this point. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
@garysgarage1015 ай бұрын
TTL standard. Very happy with the setup.
@jefflyon1005 ай бұрын
Click bait@ Nice but barely a scraper, no killer
@radiusnorth16755 ай бұрын
Love your set-up. Did you consider mounting the scale on the back of the machine, where it might be a little more protected from dust and debris?
@garysgarage1015 ай бұрын
Humm, no I didn’t. I like the idea and will look into it. Thanks for the suggestion and stopping by.
@melgrossАй бұрын
@@garysgarage101there’s real.y nowhere in the crack to mount it. I’ve been looking to do one in mine as well. The oil connector, the vertical stops, etc. all get in the way. I’ve been thinking of using standoff (sturdy ones!) to move it back, but I haven’t decided. I assume you’re using a 1 micron scale as the standard 5 micron scales just measure to about 3.5 tenths, though it may look as though they’re reading by tenths. I used 1 micron scales on my lathe and liked the consistency so much I changed the one on my mill to that as well. The readout goes to 0.00000, so it can actually give the right numbers.
@garysgarage101Ай бұрын
@@melgross yes, 1 micron scale.
@ypaulbrown6 ай бұрын
Great Job Gary....needing to make a back plate for my 13" South Bend...1 7/8 x 8...cheers, Paul
@ypaulbrown6 ай бұрын
good day Gary, thanks for sharing, Paul in Florida
@RUNCNC6 ай бұрын
Good job!
@trollforge6 ай бұрын
Gary, I spent a fair bit of time researching proper procedures before making mine, and that led me to believe that you are supposed to counter bore the back, to index off the face and sides of the shoulder on the spindle...
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
That's correct. Most chucks have a recess on the back for that purpose. I wasnt so concerned with doing it on this one BC the chuck was a 4 jaw do doesn't matter where it sits.
@trollforge6 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101Ok, that makes sense!
@googacct6 ай бұрын
I have never done any scraping, but it seems like the stroke is a bit long. I thought the Biax scrapers had an adjustable stroke.
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
Biax is adjustable up to 20mm I believe, however the typical stroke length set is 10mm which is why I chose that.
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
Sure could. I have a couple vintage cast iron surface plates that I plan on flattening down the road. So many projects. Thanks for stopping by.
@RedCoalsSweatSouls6 ай бұрын
Could be useful on several materials, beaut!
@craigsudman45566 ай бұрын
So correct me if I'm wrong...but scraping is supposed to be a way to flatten surfaces. You did not show if there were any high spots, you did not show how the scraping affected the surface of the table. Not sure if anything was accomplished here other than putting that type of scraping pattern on the table. Neither thumbs up or thumbs down for this video.
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
Sure. The purpose of THIS build series was to make a tool that would aid in topics you mention. There are many videos on YT that cover scraping, including 1 on mine. I said in the video that the table saw was a surface I didn’t care about for testing the tool. Hope that helps clarify things for you. Thanks for stopping by.
@Conservator.6 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101Thanks for your explanation. I like to watch old (as old as I am;) machines being restored or just still being used. I’m curious why you don’t care for that table saw surface. Are you going to restore it sometime? Again I’m just curious. Greetings from the Netherlands. PS Ah at the end you mention that you’re going to do the finishing work by hand! (I would love to see a video of that to but I know that producing a video takes a lot of time so it’s not a request;)
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
I guess what I meant was that I don’t care about keeping the original appearance of the table saw surface. I quite like the scrapped appearance though. It’s very slippery and shiny in person.
@Conservator.6 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 Thanks! 👍
@craigsudman45566 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 What I would have liked to know is how much material was removed and is it comparable to hand scrapping. I kind of thought that you just like the finished look of the scrape pattern by what you had said. Ok thumbs up.
@josephmccord45116 ай бұрын
Your pad is blocking motor venta
@MrJKCampione6 ай бұрын
Those are cooling fins, not vents.
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
Go back to time stamp 3:15 where you can clearly see the vents are clear from the strap.
@jameseaton65606 ай бұрын
After spending 40 years seeing what real scrapers can do by hand and the dressing up the surface with an electric scraper this is quite frankly sad Sorry
@trollforge6 ай бұрын
What speed is your diamond wheel running at? I've heard from 160 to 1200 rpms, so I am stuck with my build...
@garysgarage1016 ай бұрын
If I had to guess I’d say 200 rpm. Lapping Typically run slow. Thanks for dropping in.
@joell4396 ай бұрын
impressive
@tilliesinabottle6 ай бұрын
well done! the motion that I see the blade make looks just like my biax.
@EitriBrokkr6 ай бұрын
Reciprocating? 🙄
@Buddha-of8fk7 ай бұрын
Just dress the sides of the wheel after you dress the bottom.
@garysgarage1017 ай бұрын
Never thought of that. Great tip.
@Buddha-of8fk7 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 l run a Harig and Okie's most of the time. Their arbors are different from what you're running. I'm a retired Meadville PA Tool and Die maker. I was in the game for 42 years.
@radiusnorth16757 ай бұрын
Thanks for your video. Did you make or buy the mandrel you used in the balancing set up? I have a similar machine but haven't been able to accurately measure the taper on the motor spindle or find a source for a "balancing mandrel" (once I know the taper)
@garysgarage1017 ай бұрын
That mandrel came with the surface grinder. Best way to measure the taper is to mount the hub in the lathe and measure that instead.
@radiusnorth16757 ай бұрын
Thanks again.@@garysgarage101
@radiusnorth16757 ай бұрын
Thanks for your video. Would you mind sharing the source for the high precision DRO ?
@garysgarage1017 ай бұрын
Just added the links in the description.
@radiusnorth16757 ай бұрын
Outstanding, Thank you.@@garysgarage101
@tilliesinabottle7 ай бұрын
Hey it works! well done. Will there be another video comparing it's performance to hand scraping? I like to let the skin form on a tomato sauce and let it cook for a long time . I think the magic really happens under the skin.
@garysgarage1017 ай бұрын
Yes, I’ll follow up with some scraping for sure. It was a fun project.
@trollforge7 ай бұрын
Awesome job!
@tates117 ай бұрын
Wheels that small and light can't be far enough out of balance to cause a problem. Traditionally the 3 weights are equispaced and left alone forever. The arbor is also always left on the machine. Changing wheels is accomplished by just removing the large nut. This also protects the delicate precision machine arbor. Many grinding machines using this size wheel don't even have the weights on the nut, just a solid threaded disc with 2 holes.
@BenRasmussen-c3u7 ай бұрын
very creative, looks like a great machinist at work. Thanks
@eyuptony7 ай бұрын
Nice set up.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir7 ай бұрын
This is very interesting. Explained it very nicely. Thanks
@tilliesinabottle7 ай бұрын
I'm interested to see these parts in action! last spring I sold some royer ribbon microphones and bought a used biax bl-40. I love it, and If your power scraper works out you'll find it's a real time saver and takes out some of the human error in scraping- namely the consistancy of your stroke length.
@tilliesinabottle8 ай бұрын
that "yellow" locktite stuff is pretty powerfull. I know I mentioned it before, but I actually used it to pull out a broken bolt by drilling and tapping a smaller bolt into the broken one and locktiting it. once it set, I could spin the old bolt out by grabbing the smaller one.
@tates118 ай бұрын
Make the heel of the clamp thinner to go down inside the tee slot. Also make the heel longer to rest on the bottom of the tee slot. This prevents marking the bed also they don't twist and lock when sliding the vice forwards and backwards.
@tilliesinabottle8 ай бұрын
It was going so well- too bad. I have seen a simmilar locktite product for attaching electric magnet locks directly to glass doors when there is no metal frame. It's used frequently enough in the industry, although I'm glad I never needed to put on a maglock this way.
@joell4398 ай бұрын
great job!
@joell4398 ай бұрын
Good JOB 👍👍
@joell4398 ай бұрын
👍👍😎👍👍
@joell4398 ай бұрын
this is going to be a fun build. I doubt it will be a failure. 😂😂 Your plan seems reasonable to me. On to Part 2 to see if I'm right .....
@garysgarage1018 ай бұрын
No idea. I do projects 1/2h here and there, when ever I can sneak away from family duties. Stay tuned, power scraper is done with some exciting results.
@theoriginalDirtybill8 ай бұрын
how many hours do you have in this project? what's your estimate for total hours for the project?
@petemclinc8 ай бұрын
The cathode (bar clamp) could have zinc or chrome plating on it which might dissolve during the process. Appears to be a very effective, fast and cheap alternative to expensive EvapoRust. I will have to give this a try, need to find a source for sodium carbonate which I think is soda ash sold on Amazon, ebay, Granger, etc. I have a Sears 12V battery charger with a trickle and fast start settings. What was the ratio of water to sodium carbonate? Great experiment!
@samuelskinner85978 ай бұрын
Brilliant, I have the Chester version of this mill in the uk, I would like to do this to my one. Do you have a link and a part no to where you got the scale for the quill.
@garysgarage1018 ай бұрын
Here you go: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004433698392.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.655261c302AyJk&algo_pvid=0a97d51b-43e9-497a-b9e3-cc9a5b8599be&algo_exp_id=0a97d51b-43e9-497a-b9e3-cc9a5b8599be-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%21253.95%21175.22%21%21%21185.50%21%21%402103244817048589363918028e848f%2112000029168357910%21sea%21CA%212024184690%21&curPageLogUid=Y7nrPAeWiKsB&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
@piotrk43518 ай бұрын
Hi! I have the same grinder and want to mount DRO. My first question is if You mount it the way you did it wil it not collide with magnetic bed when you are going down? Second question is when you bought this addition for dust collecting by vacum cleaner? If it is 2d printed do u have model files maybe? Thanks in advance for the answer. Greetings from Poland! ;-)
@garysgarage1018 ай бұрын
The head can go all the way up and down without running into anything. I had to pay close attention to this before drilling holes but it worked great. Welcome to the channel, we love Poland.
@piotrk43518 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 thx for answer. I also asked for dust collector addon? Can you answer?
@garysgarage1018 ай бұрын
Dust collector is simple sheet metal cut with a plasma cutter. I don't have files, sorry.
@piotrk43518 ай бұрын
@@garysgarage101 thx! <3
@machinists-shortcuts9 ай бұрын
When grinding long parts without coolant they must be set at an angle to prevent overheating in the middle. Grinding the whole length in one pass will expand the parallels in the middle leaving a dip when cooled. This is vital where there is no power traverse as the wheel moves too slowly over the part by hand causing heating.
@garysgarage1019 ай бұрын
That’s excellent advice. I’ve seen that done and it makes total sense.
@matter99 ай бұрын
When we made parallels at school the first op grind after heat treat was done holding the raw parallel in a grinding vise with the top surface indicated as good as we could manage. I’m also working with a mag chuck that has unknown geometry. Circling back to the grinding vise fixture, I’ve had good results grinding flat parts by raising my work up off the chuck and again held in the vise, minimizing my reliance on the chuck flatness. Good work, 👍
@marley5898 ай бұрын
Grinding the first face in a vice eliminates the magnetic chuck pulling out any bow from heat treatment. If the first face was ground flat directly on the chuck, once released the bow would return.