Arc welding cast iron drill press handle with nickel rod

Picked up a 1993 Taiwanese drill press with a broken handle. Will attempt to arc weld with a nickel rod. Using an Everlast welder at 110A.

[@tomt9543]

I use Cronatron 211 nickel electrodes to repair cast iron, and I’ve found that they run much better on AC current! That totally goes against all the logic that typically applies to stick welding, but it sure works! But your 110 probably doesn’t have an AC option. And go to Harbor Freight and buy a chipping hammer!

[@ww6609]

Please use a wire brush on your grinder for better removal of slag for better metal fusion :)

[@garysgarage101]

Great idea. I wasn’t able to get it all off with the brush, very stubborn.

[@ww6609]

@@garysgarage101 Most welders use wire brush wheels when the power is available :) Also, bring your heat wayyy back and you wont blow through your metal with the arc. That cast Iron is extremely conductive and soft.

[@garysgarage101]

@@ww6609 That’s great to know. I tried welding a chunk of cast iron to mild steel yesterday and found increasing the heat (to 120A on 1/8 electrode) was worse. Went back down to 100A, was more manageable but found the bead to be quite tall.

[@ww6609]

@@garysgarage101 At that point you are cross welding and you would want to use Tungsten Inert Gas welding over SMAW. TiG is really fun and was originally made for cross welding aluminum and titanium for the SR71 Blackbird's leading edge. Supersonic is hot enough to melt aluminum. I'd say practice and mess around with each setting individually on extra material with your SMAW machine so you can learn how your machine behaves. Each one has its own soul. btw, striking the flux electrode can be easier to start (DO NOT HAVE IT IN THE MACHINE WHEN YOU DO THIS!!!) if you tap the tip with your welders hammer or a sharp surface to expose the smallest of the filler metal for an easier start.