My guy, the Sigma at 18mm at minimum focusing distance does not look great. It cleans up the more you zoom in (or don't get too close to your subjects). If you're okay with those limitations, the Sigma will work for you. I shoot some photos/videos close up, so I went with the Tamron

Different camera handle light differently 🤷‍♂️

@@keith-knittel ..at a level this video would have been unnecessary to make. I guess it's a huge distiction. Unless you are the quicksilver from X-Men will you make a video about fast switching of screw-in ND filters on pyxis lenses to compensate the exposure shifts? I don't think so.

@@sertocd sounds like a skill issue

@@keith-knittel Try going from indoors to sunny outdoors 30fps shutter angle set to 180 and explain your super human skills to install an ND filter in 500 milisecons.

@@sertocd You can use a variable ND in either a matte box, or screwed on the lens, or even in a mount adapter like the MOFAGE. Or set the camera to automatically ramp exposure via iris or shutter angle.

That is a totally valid way of shooting if that's how you like to shoot - I do not trust myself enough to shoot like this though haha. I'd screw something up for sure. Looking at the dynamic range chart, if you're shooting a darker scene (lots of info below middle gray), but you shoot at ISO 800, you're putting most of your range in the highlights (above middle gray). So you are not capturing as much data in the shadows as you could by shooting at 400, or even 320. Right? Only saying this, as I'm not a huge fan of adjusting the ISO in post. Maybe by a stop, but not by like... 3 stops or something I like to have my image look as close to the final look as I can on the monitor when I'm shooting it. That may be a wrong take in the world of shooting raw, but my clients tend to freak out when a color temp is "wrong" or super overexposed. Less of an issue in brighter/well-lit scenes but it's burned me more in darker/changing lighting For the danger of shooting raw at non-native ISOs, can you explain about tricking you into thinking you have enough light? I use false color to expose (I ETTR by a stop, but ignoring that for now) Thanks for the comment! Love hearing how different people shoot

The Blackmagic method of choosing different raw compressions and choosing an ISO value that favors shadows, highlights or a balanced dynamic range has been really great to work with - it's just lead to a lot of testing on my end since I've never shot on a BM 6k or Pyxis

What settings do you think are good examples

@@Rukiasriot1 If using a cinema lens try no tint, ISO 200, shutter angle 240-360 depending on how dark, look at your peaking in the shadows to see if there is any noise. We did a test on our channel take a look.

Thanks, Jonathan!! Just checked out your m40 vs mc video - I'll have to check out the m40

What are you struggling with? Can try to help you out. Totally understand the feeling - just had to figure this out myself! The dynamic range charts on the pyxis product page really helped me wrap my head around it. Overall, the higher you increase the ISO, the more noise you'll introduce to the footage since there is no in camera noise reduction. Even at ISO 1250, you'll get some amount of noise - but depending on what you're shooting (low light, if you need more information in the shadows), that might be a good thing when applying noise reduction. At higher ISOs you'll have to apply some noise reduction. Blackmagic cameras really shine when you have the appropriate light on your scene - and you're not using the camera's ISO to raise exposure.

understand iso like this - if you are shooting in a dark scene, use low iso to have more dynamic range in the shadow and keep detail there. if you are shooting a bright scene for example a rabbit in snow, use a high iso so you can keep the detail and higher dynamic range in the highlights. in regard to the blackmagic, you shouldn't really be using them as a dslr, they are cinema cameras at the end of the day. if you are in a dark scene, you will have to use lower iso (for more dynamic range and therefore cleaner shadow|). too dark? now you bring in lights. that is how they are meant to be used. that's why planning and prepro are so important. if you are really in a pinch and didn't plan accordingly then you can go to the next base iso, but go to the lowest iso (1250) you will get noise as you are putting to much signal to the sensor.

That is the accsoon cage! I have a whole video going over my iPad setup here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nH2qdoalecZ6e7s

@ thanks! It's a shame that it's mounted so "permanently". You know what I mean. I have such a cage for Mini and it's an inconvenient solution.

Same, seeing much better results after checking out the charts. Find myself using false color a lot in darker scenes so I don't go too dark and have issues with needing to raise the exposure in post. Brighter scenes, I don't use it as much. Just quickly check false color make sure I'm not overexposing the subject

For handheld, I'm using the DJI transmitter, lidar and focus motors with the v2 hub. You can also use the grip, focus motors and lidar if you're not using the DJI transmission. You'll need the V2 hub if you're using the DJI transmission. You don't need the hub if you're using the dji focus pro grip

@@keith-knittel I guess i need that 7 pin to USB c that comes only with the ALL in one FOCUS kit i guess. Otherwise i can power the v2 hub only with that dual usb c that is used for Ronin

Agree. It's great in controlled lighting, but the jobs I'm getting lately are about 50% controlled lighting and 50% pure chaos docu-style shoots at multiple locations

My first time picking up the Pyxis I assumed 3200 was the higher ISO I should have been using at all times. I tried to mention in the video that there is no internal noise reduction on the Pyxis (Raw), like shooting internally on the FX3 (not RAW) - so there is no "reset" for noise reduction, but for shooting in low light there is more dynamic range in the shadows at 1250 vs 1000 which is heavily favoring the highlights. The noise at 1250 on the pyxis isn't like 12,800 on the FX3 shooting internally. If you're shooting in darker environments, having more detail in the shadows is nice to have vs favoring highlights at 1000 Wildly underestimated the amount of tests I had to do while switching camera brands 😅

@@keith-knittel The difference of quality can be also seen on an fx6 which can shoot without noise reduction even if the h.264 h.265 does compress noise partially. Personnally I avoid shooting with noise reduction when possible and RAW on my C80 and when using an fx6 because noise reduction in post can give results that are sharper and with a smoother noise than an FX3/A7S3! What's is true is tha teh pyxis is not the best performing camera regarding dual base ISO sadly! The thing also with 12800 instead os 3200 you can expose in dark higher an underexpose after

P.S. the noise really did not translate well to KZbin on the higher ISOs. The higher ISOs were really noisey, and resolve's noise reduction really helped out. At the higher ISOs you lose a lot of find detail - even more so if you're moving around. I found the best results was to keep the camera locked off (like it was in the test shots)

🙌

Ooh man, I have not tested that out. What compression do you use when filming moving objects?