For sure, it all adds up. As I mentioned, 12v is popular and serves most small applications. We will see things switching to 48v more and more, Tesla just did for their car accessories. I also see group 24 48v 25ah (small) batts now, I have one on the way for an ebike... Everything on the bike (lights, motor, controller and accessories) will run natively on 48v. We are pushing the future, just like when 12v replaced 6v. Only takes time.

Thank you!! Yeah, not sure either! Seems their deals switch around...

Nice!! How many 12v amps you need? These are popular; amzn.to/4e7DWO1 think the goal is to reduce any 12v devices if you can... Or you can have another 12v batt that gets charged via the 120v ac for your 12v stuff.

Other way around... Always want your Batteries connected first..

Lol, wish I could be pushing that many amps! I'm at like 50a, 4awg is plenty.

Just googled it and in the UK 🇬🇧 they are £449.00. Not a bad price that's like £224.50 each for 2 100Ah 12.8 v batteries

Good point!! They are $350 each - $699 for 2. Also, These are 48v 50ah each.. so 2x 48v 50ah would equal 4x 12v 100a.

Correct, you need a cradle or 'feet' to mount on the mx350.

If you are calculating 4x the cost, it's likely 4x the power too... Use watt hours to calculate the difference not AH, you'll see.

Very true! I am considering 24v for the RV AC... Should work well and less batteries to manage in series over 48v.

Sure! This is the one I have been loving: amzn.to/3MxGsRq

FD is a whole lot better... But youll have to get another scud in parallel to pull more than 30a.. 2 will give you 60a which is a whole lotta fun with a FD.

For sure! Ill post all the details!

Well in this short, sure... Lot of other benefits too! Converting 48v to 120v is a lot easier for the inverter, more efficient. Plus more!

Love this setup!! Thats how to do it.

Check out hotpaxx.com, they have all the good stuff!!

In the solar world 48v is popular for anything 3000w and higher... It really all depends on what you are trying to do. It gets silly to use juggernaut wire on 12v, when your whole system would be more efficient at 48v. 12v at 3000w is 250a.. good luck running that size copper 🙃. There are whole product lines that are 48v.. check out eg4, solark and grow watt.

@@richardwebb6267 lots of 48v equipment is available on Amazon.

It's called a QS8 anti spark!

I never clocked it, its already undergoing surgery for next upgrades! But maybe 20 at the most.

Dang! that's quite a collection... I've sold off all the gas bikes, and added another electric... just can't pass up good deals hahaha!

So true!!

I should weigh it, but I would estimate around 50lbs for now.

Wonder why that is... We should be able to parallel as many as we want.

@@TackleThat I don't know. Most rack batteries can be paralled way more. EG4s, for example. I have seen someone build a system with four or five six-battery cabinets.

@@Tumbleweed5150 ya, I plan on hooking up more than 4 lol... 2 DC house batts on their way.

@@TackleThat If it were me, I would try to contact the company and find out why they have that limit. They may say that it is only for smaller systems and the BMS can't handle larger systems. Or they may tell you that it is okay, as long as you fuse the batteries/battery banks after a certain number of batteries in parallel, so it cannot overload wires or the BMSs. Just to say, I would want to know for sure before exceding their printed limit. Oh...after watching this again, I noticed that on the initial sheet you held up, it said 4s1p, yet in the manual, it looked like you could go as much as 4s4p. Again, you may want to ask the company about this discrepency. One or another could be a mis-print, or they included a manual that is for more than one type of battery. Usually, battery companies say that 12.8 Volt batteries can be hooked in 4s4p, but most rack batteries I have seen say not to series the rack batteries, as the BMSs aren't designed for it, and they will offer you a rack battery that is the proper Voltage for the system you want.

Sure! 12v, 24 and 48 are very popular, with lots of charger and inverter options.

Yeah, a little more... With batteries you have to compare watt hours to watt hours, you will see its not that much more. Sometimes it's the same, like the eg4 batteries.

Something like this? Amazon has a lot of options.. amzn.to/3AOLfeo

24 is solid, some good options there... Just depends on how big your system needs to be!

Nice, thank you!!

@@TackleThat Yeah added short about it but idk where you can find same size sprockets but cheap ones can be good too✌

The one on amazon is a little smaller FD controller, but matches the motor better. Really shouldn't be pushing these motors past 80a, which is what the amazon controller pushes. 100a on hotpaxx, you will need the heat sink and to watch your temps for sure.

What do u think I have 48v hotpaxx battery will I be fine?

@@FabioDirt the 120a continuous? Sure will be.

If you don't know what you are doing you should stay away from both voltages, lol. They both can be dangerous.

Right on!

Right on! Just dont know why its 8v on the charge port rather than 52v like the discharge port..

Great point, thanks!

12, 24, 36, 48 are all "nominal" voltages. Inverters and PV charge controllers do specify a range of voltages but these are to accommodate momentary voltage "sag" during a high-load motor start on an inverter, and voltage "peaks" on the PV side when the batteries are nearing fully charged and the PV controller starts to really regulate/reduce voltage below the actual output of the panels.

@@303nitzubishi4 however it needs to specify nominal voltage because otherwise certain piece of equipment are reference to the DC voltage for what the AC voltage is especially on cheap ones. It’s unlikely that it requires us specific voltage but there is definitely a chance that it could be designed that way which is quite important to know it could also potentially be a minimum voltage or a maximum voltage especially the product is made in another country and designed there and things have been translated potentially not to the best level.

Hi there! This is an amorge battery. You can email [email protected] for more details. Coamm are also really popular, lots of positive reviews amzn.to/3SZuQtP if you dont want to wait about a month, coamm are a good solution.

@@TackleThat but can the caomm battery work with this motor kit

@@HonorPizarro yeah but you will have to turn down the controller to 30a... Or you can put 2 batteries together and do 60a which is where the fun really starts

@@TackleThat how would I do that

@@HonorPizarro just need a Y adapter to go 2 batteries to 1 controller in parallel.

Thanks for the sub! 😁😁

@@TackleThatif I wanted to put a converter in this setup, would I just go from battery to converter then converter to terminal?

Wish I had a spare to sell ya!

Whole new fork, real pit bike forks are much smoother.

Thanks!! Just wire the headlight up to the + and - on the controller if you have a headlight that can handle the Volts of your battery. Put a switch anywhere on the + lead to turn it on and off as needed.

@@TackleThatThank you. Good idea, I’ll do some research on lights for 72v battery.

@@Deno4076 i got a video coming soon on how I wire mine up!

@@TackleThatawesome.

Here is how I wire my stuff up, check it out! Thanks! kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJ-1lIhuhcZmm9E

Cool to hear, thanks for the feedback!!

Nice idea! Thanks!

For sure! Just hook them up in parallel, + to + and - to -

@@TackleThat sweet, i have two on the way from shrimp depot. Do you have a video on that build?

@@BlessedDad1819 is it an MX? Only difference is you need to cut out the middle battery tray so it looks like the SX in this video.

@@TackleThat i have the sx500

@@TackleThat just wondering the build details on that yeller one

Just set the temp sensor in the app to none and you are good!

@@TackleThat wow man I could have saved myself swapping motors. I’m gonna try that if I have any issues with this one. Thanks!

I dont think so, but hotpaxx does sell it too.

Good point, thank you for your feedback! The next video will definitely have more details.

Never did unfortunately, 😭, went far driver and had a lot more luck. Still had issues with an orange wire Kunray... So I don't use those much.

@@TackleThat. I just figured mine out, I connected the thick motor green wire with the controller thick blue (motor phase/green to blue and blue to green from the motor to the controller) and in the hall line/controller 5 wire swap/connect yellow to blue (motor side 5 wire to controller 5 wire /colors, red, black, yellow,green & blue. Connect blue to yellow and yellow to blue) this worked for me. 3000watt 72v controller. Good luck!

@@MoM-ur4yg thank you!! I hope that helps others too!

@@MoM-ur4ygthanks for this. I did as you did and it worked as well. I still don’t have the bike together( I’m waiting for new shocks) can you totally tell a difference from 36v to 48v ? Or should I have went straight to a 72v?

@@jeffhembre4422 yes I have all, 36v 48v & 72v you will definitely notice the difference.. if you are on a budget 48v 2000w it worked fine for me with the right gear ratio( I’m 270lb) 72v has reverse and 3 speeds is fast as hell on my mega moto. I didn’t purchase a battery for it yet/too expensive I’m saving the money for it, I am running 12v emergency exit sing batteries on it.

All good!!

U avoiding the top speed pls tell me I need the top speed

Took maybe 20m if I wasn't filming everything lol. Its simple, cut out the old batteries, tie in the new ones with proper crimps and connectors! And go!