Thank you !

Yes, even with the newer MAS system, a loose connector or bad ground, or even older fuse, is enough the stall out the pump relay. Definitely check those connectors and fuses.

Truthfully, I've never worked on a W140. The best I can guess is to make sure the center bolt that clamps the tensioner is loose enough to allow it to move. I actually snapped a rod years ago because I was trying to tighten it against a tensioner that wasn't free to rotate. I loosened that center bolt, and the tensioner worked as it should.

Thank you!

Excellent question. Bear in mind, the idea is to interpose the block of wood in such a way as to simulate the axle being closest to the body. That is when the valve body allows the free flow of fluid. Visualize how the linkage/rod/valve body interact when under braking. The brakes are on, the body shifts forward on the suspension and tilts downwards at the front, unloading the rear springs and tilting the body up and away from the axle. Think of how the linkage and rod react, stemming the flow of fluid to the rear calipers to avoid lockup as mass shifts forward. Then imagine how to place the wood block so that the conditions match the car in a level, neutral position. That is the position that allows the freest flow of fluid to the calipers during brake bleeding. (maybe I need to make another video that shows this more clearly) Also: be sure to check out Auto Ricambis' excellent video on the brake compensator replacement. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHm1ZXV-qNWFmqssi=xbRUn2u6wzx2zuRQ (and no, I'm not Sponsored)

Update: I also added some more photos of the shop manuals about this in the comment section of my community tab. Hopefully they help with your compensator project.

@@FlashDriveFilms I appreciate the quick replies. I believe I was under the wrong assumption that if the piston is pushed in by the rod end it was limiting fluid flow. The added manual info suggested that in actuality it is opposite of what I was thinking. So if the rod end that attaches to the axle moves up it pushes the "L" end into the piston and that is when the greatest fluid flow is allowed. Thank you.

Is no thing, my brother. I'm just trying to give out the best information I have to help people enjoy their favorite cars longer. ( I think of my car knowledge as like one of those primordial seas, broad, but very shallow.)

The whole car was pretty special at the time. It combined traditional aspects of wood and canvas (like an old sailboat might have) with some pretty high-spec features: Double Overhead Cam engine with an aluminum head, 5-speed transmission, full instrumentation (in an era drifting towards idiot lights) and, as you mentioned, 4 wheel disc brakes. Topped by one of the worlds' easiest to operate fabric roofs.

Thanks! I never tried LEDs. I suspect if you just used them for one thing, like just the fog lights or just the turn signals, it might work. But if you replaced all the bulbs with LEDs it probably would light the dash indicator for bulb out.

@@FlashDriveFilms Actually I am an idiot, they do, your video shows this the bulb warning light is on

Good to know. As I said, I never tried LEDs in that car.

These were fuel line hoses of 5/16" or 8mm I.D.

Yes, depending on the year and what market it was sold. In, (USA, Europe, Africa etc) the number and function of the pins did change. By 93 there was a cold start valve ( essentially a fifth fuel injector) with its own electronics altered for newer emissions requirements in some markets. That may be why your relay is different. Or you may have the relay from a different model that has been previously swapped in. The center pins still power the pump from the key.

@@FlashDriveFilms Hey just wanted to say thanks! Finally got the correct pin layout for my 190E and the fuel pump was entirely the culprit.

Rotation direction doesn't matter. The piston will rotate either way.Turn the piston clockwise, or anti-clockwise, to end up with the reference line/mark on the upper side.

@@FlashDriveFilms Thanks..I didn't have to time to craft my wording ....just like all the others ..lol...When I put the caliper back on the car..then it will have a reference. We could use many words to describe...North, South< Fore and Aft...

They are actually different from each other. It has to do with how they are mounted relative to the hard line connections. Held next to each other they are like mirror images.

@@FlashDriveFilms Many thanks! That is good info. I have a small leak in one of mine sl280 from -97, need to carefully check i replace the right one!

You can loosen the belt by prying the tensioner pulley with a large screwdriver/prybar. ( the tensioner is springy) That should slacken the belt enough to slip it off the alternator. Or loosen the center bolt on the tensioner and run the 13mm adjuster rod back (remember it is reverse threads) to achieve the needed slack to pop the belt off the alternator pulley.

@@FlashDriveFilms so clockwise to loosen it and anti clockwise to tighten it, mine does not have the screw in the middle of the tensioner, it has that 10mm hex

Correct. Some came with a 10mm hex bolt. Most were an allen-head cap screw . Don't remove it, just loosen it a little to get the tensioner to pivot when you slacken the adjuster rod.

@@FlashDriveFilms ok thanks a lot, I really appreciate your help

I have honestly never encountered that before. Do you mean the whole pulley is missing or just the yellow plastic tension indicator? I know the indicator also acts as a sort of spacer and that may upset the operation of the pulley. I don't know if that would lead to misfiring though.

@@FlashDriveFilms Thank u so very much for your quick reply 💪🫡Yes the yellow plastic tensioner arrow missing Before it was running like a dream no issue at all ,,, everything else could cause any misfire all changed car serviced regularly,, tomorrow I will see my mates if they have anything for me if not I’ll buy it online until then I’ll see in mm the difference and add a washer as a temporary replacement! Many thanks and I’ll get back to you with results 🫡 Cheers Matt

Just as an idea, look carefully at the connectors on the front of the engine, especially the crank position sensor down low on the front pulley. If you brushed against that it might have bent the bracket or loosened the connector enough to influence the engine firing.

@@FlashDriveFilms Mate guess what 😊🤦‍♂️😄 before I start working on E280 I washed her with pressure washing machine with car after I covered what need to be covered even tho with care , so I just remember today 😁😅 and I take all spark plugs each one by one each one I blow it out with my air compressor then clean spark plug with carbby cleaner then blow the inside all cylinders just incase 😅all done 4 cylinders was full of water 😁 now it runs like it was before with no drama, the belt I did it with four steps until I could find the right spot that I undo the pulley bolt then turn the belt tensioner adjustment one half turn the tight the bolt then undo again and repeat it 4 times of course each time I start car until I get there ,,,, thank you again for you kind and care and for thinking for the other possibility kind thinking so I can solve my problem/issue , for me you are a Legend 🤝💪🙏😎🫡 Wish you all the best in the world 🫡 Cheers Matt

Excellent. Glad to hear it worked out and is running fine again.

Welcome 👍

Thank you! I always found the key thing with the lines was getting the clips back in at the bracket where the steel meets the flexible lines. Then I realized the clips are asymmetrical and will slip in easily when flipped correctly. The rug in the video has been the subject of considerable comment on the channel for some time now. It is, off course, a remarkable replica, rendered in a plastic derived from used soda bottles. Substantially cheaper than the usual rubber matts made for garage floors, and I think, slightly more elegant.

Danke! Ich schätze es wirklich. Ja, die von mir verwendeten Tools finden Sie im Beschreibungsbereich unten.

If you can grip the leading edge of the sliding panel and pull it or give it a yank while advancing the electric switch it may come unstuck.Sometimes there is just a twist in the cable or a flat spot on the electric motor armature. I am surprised you can't advance it with the hex drive in the trunk. Hopefully not something really bent in there.

@@FlashDriveFilms my situation is the exact opposite of this. My sunroof got run into the front deflector and now won’t go back. Like it’s jammed. I can hear the motor trying but no movement. Can I get to the manual drive and undue it the same as here?

Excellent choice. Shell makes good oils and the 15w-40 is an ideal option for older Fiat engines. I use the Castrol 20w-50 primarily in hot weather and because it is a little less expensive. (and I'm a cheapskate)

Hmmm.. Even after it is installed on the car with the belt on it? (it's not going ot line up right out of the box. It needs the tension of the belt on the engine to align correctly.)

I honestly don't know the original part number of your fuel pump relay. There are so many, based on what market the car was originally sold in, and what upgrades were made to the relay over the years. You actually don't want the original number as it would be so old now the capacitors are probably shot. The relays did evolve over the years, doing the same things with newer components. Things like MOSFETs and Surface Mount Devices (SMD) that weren't widely used in 1987. Hopefully someone in the comments section has a cross reference for you car and will chime in.

Thanks! I used a small 12V gel-cell battery that I had around the shop with a couple of alligator clips. (as I vaguely remember) if you are working on a W124, I can highly recommend a channel: MMWA. I believe he is based in Australia and does some truly excellent work on those models. (including a series videos about the sunroof)

Excellent! Thank you. Replacing the ball joints is Much easier than doing th whole lower control arm.

I don't think I've ever seen one with just 6 pins. If your 190E is a manual transmission and has a carburetor, it might lack the circuits for things like transmission kick-down and the cold start injector. The 2 center pins should still be the power jumper for the pump though.

Thank you. I wish more car service videos included links to the parts/tools/materials used . Makes the whole process easier.

Merci!

Glad it was helpful!

I've been wary about mixing workshop chemicals together. It's like a box of chocolates...

Yeah, the Cat price was steep because we're in one of 17 CARB compliant states. Anywhere else, and I could have shaved $600+ off the total bill. But now it's all brand new, front to back, with new , top-rated O2 sensors as well. So it's all good.

Absolutely! I don't drive it in the Winter, though. It's in the garage right now on the battery tender.

Kind words. Thank you. I do still have some R129 footage I never edited into a video. Maybe I'll look for some of that and post it.

I think a lot of people would enjoy and find useful too..@@FlashDriveFilms

Yeah I was curious about that accounting figure as well but as much as I was sweet on the SL my driveway needs emptying not filling

31¢ a mile, all in. I kept the receipts. And the depreciation would have been even lower had I charged more when I sold it.

mine is 1.89/mi... cost+maintenance+finance costs only. yours is outstanding....But you drove your car mine 19K miles in 20 years@@FlashDriveFilms

Thanks!

Difficile da dire. Se è iniettato carburante, controllerei il circuito della valvola di avviamento a freddo. Se è a carburatore, potresti avere un problema con il blocco del vapore.

Happy to help

Glad you liked it! I enjoyed making this particular video.

No kit reversals here. You are thinking of the stock exhaust from Honda. These are both generic aftermarket repair kits. They both came with spring bolt setup. Truthfully, if I had to do it again, I'd go for a stainless cat-back system. (not even sure if they make such a thing.)

Correct. The factory tool kit in the trunk includes a wrench with the 6mm hex-drive portion, and a Very thin open-end portion (13mm?) to release the metal tonneau cover as well.

I'm going to have to give this one to the community, as I have never worked on an ML350 before and I don't want to speculate and possibly mislead you.

I got the solution for you ready, trouble is I have to charge you 130.00 British Pounds

Spoken like a true Mercedes auto repair technician! (plus the standard, non-negotiable, diagnostics surcharge.)