The line was vibrating in the bracket, causing a buzzing noise. I wedged a piece of foam between the condenser coil and the refrigerant line. That stopped the noise.

Longramps. Link in the video description.

I have a Creality Falcon 2 40W diode laser as well as the CO2. I tried using it, but the light wavelength is wrong. It cuts black acrylic nicely, but doesn’t work on light colored materials. With the laminate, it cuts the dark top layer, and does nothing on the white layer, except reflect the laser energy back to the black layer. This makes a mess of the top layer.

@@2manytoyz123 thanks. That sounds about right. I’ll need to save for a CO2 I think. Looks great though.

Glad you found the information useful. Just be aware diode lasers won’t work on clear or light colored acrylics. They excel at cutting wood and black acrylic. I have both types of lasers. The CO2 laser cuts all acrylics and is perfect for laminated acrylic.

I can give you the specific P/N for the red and green switches I ordered from Mouser or you can get exactly what you want by using this data sheet to create your desired switch: www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/dm-1382873.pdf

Green LED switches: MFG Part No: DM64J72S205Q6, red LED switches: MFG Part No: DM64J72S20503

At minute 1:58, I did a detailed view showing the two bolts that needed to be removed. Other than disconnecting the fuel line, that’s all that was involved in removing the old pump. Hope that helps.

I wrote on both sides of the gas can, with a Sharpe marker, “USED OIL”. Doesn’t get stored with the others. Works well for me, but do what works for you.

@@2manytoyz123 excellent idea. Great video!

Keep in mind panel mounted components, like switches, have a limited “grip length”. Many of the ones I use are intended for 2-3mm thick panels. A thicker panel won’t allow the latches to lock on a snap in type switch, or there might not be enough threads on others. But, it’s worth experimenting! Maybe 1mm of clear over 1mm of black, with a 1mm white backer. Or oversize the holes on the clear layer, so the components don’t actually go through it. The nice part is once you have it designed, it only takes minutes to make another if the first one gets damaged. Have fun!

I've used the 1.5mm material, which is too flimsy by itself, but the 3mm material has worked well for me, but not made a huge panel yet. I just made a a couple of panels for our new RV, and incorporated 2020 aluminum frame material. This method should help your project. Details here: www.2manytoyz.com/Laser-Engraved-Panels.html

It would run for a few minutes, then shut down. If your float is stuck closed, or the fuel pump has died, it won't run at all. I'd suggest taking off the air filter, and spraying some ether directly into the throat of the carburetor while trying to start it. If it fires, then it is a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't, then a spark issue. You can also disconnect the fuel line at the base of the carb, face it away from everything, then try starting. It should squirt fuel. If so, likely a stuck float, or clogged jet. Good luck!

I put the details in the video description, but you have to click “more” to see it. Don’t like that KZbin did that. Raser Engrave 4mA @ 100 mm/sec., air assist OFF.

Start with the owners manual. They usually do a good job of covering all the safety details. Most of the accidents I’ve read about involve using it indoors, or even in a garage with the door open. You should run your generator monthly to keep it exercised. This keeps it reliable. Mine is a 2006, and still runs like new.

@@2manytoyz123 thank you, I’ll find a manual online hopefully. Mrs Z

Resin has a wet appearance when not fully cured. An improperly cleaned part is difficult to cure, and tends to remain sticky. The wash and cure station does an excellent job of removing any residual resin. I put the cleaned part on paper towels, then lightly spray it with compressed air to remove any alcohol. The part should have a dull finish at this point. Now run it through the cure cycle, ensuring all surfaces are exposed to the UV light. Reposition the part and repeat if necessary. Final result should be a dull, solid part with no stickiness. It can now be lightly sanded if needed to remove any imperfections.

@@2manytoyz123 yes I can clean a piece really nicely, no stickiness but when it comes to curing, it doesn’t-cure properly… it still scratches easily with the finger nail even after a 2 hour cure cycle

If the part has been properly cleaned, it can be cured in minutes. If there’s still residual wet resin on the part, it can take hours. I have since purchased a wash/cure station, which works amazingly well.

I am now using an Ender 5 S1: amzn.to/43hMIDr

Contact me at [email protected]. I’ll get you started.