Thanks for taking the time to comment on an 8 year old video. A lot changes over time, video quality, equipment, and instructing in a video. I am always looking to improve. What do you have to recommend to make the video better?

@on3racingchannel819 I was looking for instructions and insight on the install process... not a flex. This video had noooo information on the install... your title is misleading.

@@hy4438 You are 100% correct. I have gone and changed the title of the video.

To be honest because the S30 is just a better platform and looks better 🤣😁

I would start with bypassing the viper kit and see if the truck still starts returned to stock. If it does then you may have something wired wrong or maybe a faulty module. If it doesn't start after that then you may have a fuse popped or something going on with the ignition system. Hope that helps at least lead you in a direction. Thanks!

That is correct! I did not think to mention that because this Z had been converted to disk brakes by our shop.

I have found when doing swaps to take my budget I think it will cost. Double it and add $500. "while I'm at it" will get you every time.

Correct. They are basically wired in stand alone like most older vehicles. If you have a alternator that is controlled by the ecm then you will need to switch to a later version that is internally controlled.

@@on3racingchannel819 Okay. Do you happen to know how the power distribution system is wired up? Like I assume Battery Positive -> Starter (and the starter has a thin wire going to an ignition 12v signal from either the Megasquirt or a relay?)

@@DJimeku Every car will be different but Typically you want the M.S. battery feed wired straight to the battery and then the key on feed to come from a source that keeps power with key on and in the start position. The MS does not need to see the engine is cranking by the starter it will get that info from the crank and/or cam trigger

@@on3racingchannel819 Oh okay. I ws wondering how the starter knows it's time to crank. I'm pretty sure once it see's 12v it starts cranking. But how does it sense when to turn on and off? The starter that is... Thanks!

@@DJimeku That signal comes from your ignition switch. Most cares built pre 2000's us a mechanical switch when you turn the key to give power to the signal wire on the solenoid. when you release the key the power is no longer given to the solenoid and the starter stops turning. Some cars after the 2000s are still this way but most modern cars use a BCM or TIPM module to active the power to the solenoid instead now.

I do not. You would have to google it or find a Chilton or Hanes Manual that has it.

There are several kits like it out there. This was several years ago so the ebay link doesn't work anymore. It is a Viper kit. I think Autozone sells a version of this kit now too.

Absolutely. It has bitten me once before. Had one I drained for a customer and spent hours trying to get the fill plug undone and they were waiting on it. If I would have attempted the fill plug first then I would have told them it needed to be dropped off because more time would have been needed. Instead they now had a diff with no oil that I HAD to get the fill plug off.

You can purchase them from JBA Speed Shop directly. American Muscle no longer carries their long tubes. jbaspeedshop.com/i-22725932-05-10-mustang-gt-3-collector.html

Summit Racing

This was many moons ago but I believe my base set was 14, max was 32 before we stopped making power.

I don't see why not. It is a universal kit and is not year/make/model specific.

When you install the adapter flanges for the S30 diff and use the 300zx axles they are a bit to long so you flip the cage to make the axle just a little bit shorter so it doesn’t bind up when hitting bumps.

Everything was left factory. The only thing I changed was I went to a Camaro Style compressor to get the belt spacing right and I went to an obs ac line because it was originally mounted on the passenger side on the obs versus the driver side like the square body trucks.

No problem. Glad to help out.

It would be pretty similar. You will still need signal input from a distributor or crank/cam position

It wasn’t hard but I am also pretty good at wiring and wiring diagrams. I would be careful doing it on a manual. There is a reason no manual cars come with remote start. If you leave it in gear the car is going to take off with no way to stop it.

I used the square bodies factory ac wiring since it would be getting the signal to turn on from the hvac controls in the truck. It can make an issue if you are drive by cable because it can lug down from the load. I switched to drive by wire later when I went 6.0 and turbo and it was much smoother.

@@on3racingchannel819 @ o ok, sorry i tough it was a 88-99 obs truck,, Being like that!!! Why u choose a R4 cheap style compressor???? Since stock 5.3 s compressor s fitt into square bodys,, Swap s

@@gerardolopez5875 they actually don’t fit unless you use the tonjes mounts. I used the ict billet adapter plates which sets the engine lower so the factory ac on the 5.3 actually gets in the way of the frame. You can notch the frame but the adapters get in the way. I also was trying to reuse as many parts as I could and since the truck came with the pancake it was easier to use. If I had to do it over again I would probably go with the bracket kit that uses the sanderson barrel style compressor as they create less drag on the engine.

@@on3racingchannel819 @ i did my 84 c10, I used the cheap 26$amazon adapters , and a/c compressor fits there,, U only need to modify the a/c lines,, But i wouldn’t never use the R4 compressor,,

@@gerardolopez5875 weird. Did you cut the adapters or something? The plates I used covered the holes for the original ac bracket. I also moved the engine back as far as possible to allow space for the turbo setup later on. I’m sure if it was forward more the compressor would have cleared fine. The ac worked great in the truck just a heavy load. If I had to do it again I wouldn’t have gone with the pancake compressor.

It’s a universal kit so it will work on anything.

It technically can. You would just want to install something to cancel it if it's in gear. I'm not sure how you would do that though. Unless you installed a micro switch just in front of where first gear falls.

i believe it will cause a vacuum leak

@@Muck0910 so the previous owner tells me the engine was rebuilt but I noticed it was smoking out of the tail pipes when I drive it hard. So I’m hoping this will help. I bought oem filter and pcv. I also bought another 302 to build just in case

It can cause issues. The screen is there to keep large oil particles out of the vacuum system. If its not there it can cause excessive amount of oil to be sucked up into the intake and burned. If it's smoking that would be the first thing I tried as its cheap and fairly easy to do.

@@on3racingchannel819 thanks. I thought the same thing but the it’s been raining so I have yet to see if it helped. How often do you replace it?

@@vtecbanger3180 Not often really. Granted I usually don't own cars very long before I get bored and try to find something else. I would say every 30k would be fine. Depending on how much your engine is using oil. A fresh motor may not need it changed for a long time but an engine with looser rings may need it more often.

No lol that comes standard with any old sbf.

Yes I did. Was able to use the rest of the stuff from the c10

He is keeping this one but if you watch there is a coupe in the back ground I believe he is selling/maybe sold.

We used a large shop vac brand vacuum and the extractor is a bissell pro steam. I have had very good luck with it. I am not sponsored or anything by them obviously but really enjoy there product. I have the larger one for my house. www.bissell.com/spotclean-proheat-portable-carpet-cleaner-5207F.html

Thanks Scott!

The JBA headers we used fit pretty well.

Two ways either permanently turn it off by disconnecting the power wire and reattaching the starter wires back together or you can disable it with the remote.

I was running the factory fan shroud from the square body. I modified the mounts to make it work. I'm also running ICT adapter plates so if you are running the Tejas mount kit then it may not work since that kit sets the engine higher in the engine bay I beleive.

I will hopefully have a video out soon showing it all.

This was several years ago but I believe it was a Viper unit. I'm sure ebay or amazon would carry them.

Always happy to help! If I can take a couple minutes out of my day to help some one else save some time I'm glad to do it!

Thank you for the support!

I understand it may not be the "proper way to do it" however it does in fact adjust the tension. The nut was tightened back down after adjustment was made. The better way would be to remove the cotter pin and turn it I do agree. The pins can sometimes freeze in the socket and with the driveshaft still in can be difficult to remove.

Awesome! I probably won’t have time to post much of the actually working on it but I will try and post info on things I ran into issues with along the way!

Thank you for the positive feed back! I’m not sure the part number anymore but the hose was for a 95-98 Chevy c1500 just make sure it’s passenger side mount compressor

Ok I just did this and after a ton of research I found the exact hos you need. It's a four season 56373 part number and from a 1989 k5 blazer.

Always glad to help!

Unfortunately I dont have a starlet to make a video or know anyone with one. Sorry