Very inter and good for beginners like me

Thanks for the video. I am looking for a tutorial that explains how change (tweak) the RA and DEC to match (or at least get them as close as possible on a given night/conditions.

Just started to watch this… I have watched several of your videos; and thanks for sharing your knowledge. BUT, it does bug me when people say “Our eyes are most sensitive in the green because we evolved to see danger in grasses.” Our eyes are most sensitive at the 555, and with basic understanding of color one would say that’s green. But there is more than just 3 colors and 555 is literally yellow. The star our planet orbits is also a yellow star. Wouldn’t it make more sense that we are more sensitive to yellow because that is the main color of the light that hits our planet? And evolving that way makes as much sense, and then again it would also be that way if an intelligent creator made it (and us) that way. Just another point of view.

Great video Rowan! I am currently looking at the HAE29 and the AM5. You have provided a wealth of information pertaining to the HAE29, which is very scarce. If you could could you'd please provided a more detailed picture for connecting the AA+ and Say Safari for MAC users. That would be most appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to present this great review.

I know this is not a new video but it has been very helpful to me since I’m considering taking the color to mono step. Can you suggest a good video on processing in PI for mono narrowband data?. Also if you have any updates on this current video, please share. Thank you. p.s. I also appreciate the clarity in your presentation.

Absolutely fantastically explained video. You didn't leave anything out, something that's been missing from other videos I've seen. Loved the formulas and charts, and also liked the fact that you did a real test between two methods. The level of detail in this video made me sub instantly. Keep up the awesome content!

I have been using a GPS compass for true north and a digital level for latitude on my manual Meade LX70 with motor on RA for years. Not as accurate as this but do not use it for deep space. And do not have the money for a mount like yours. Poor mans alignment and can be done during the day. I move my mount about because have a limited view of the night sky due to buildings and trees and light pollution. Still fun to do and I am 81yrs.

When the polar alignment turned green then what is the minimum error from perfect?

Great video! Pretty cool and detailed. Do you have the option of using the ASIAIR Plus? Thank you and have a nice day.

I think, the less the time you expose, the more frames you acquire AND the most well-guided images will be taken. At the same time, you ensure your guiding will continue to be as desired, and the focus, as well, so lees frames to be thrown away. Flat fields are an absolute must (fortunately with NINA it seems to be relatively easy, as it calculates the ideal time per filter depending on the minimum and maximum time per filter you set).

I’d rather use a lower exposure and get a more accurate detailed shot, than potentially blowing out my shot with an exposure I had no business taking. The hobby isn’t going anywhere. Take your time and enjoy your time under the stars.

For over $10K this mount must make you coffee every morning and read most recent astro news.

For any beginners to narrow band I recommend the SVBONY220 it’s a H-alpha and O-iii dual band filter whith an OD5 for only $125

I bought my MN190 4 years ago, and it was my first scope for imaging, after doing visual with a refractor and a SCT. Your review covers well all the reasons I wanted the MN190. I am still puzzled why more people do not use it. I got mine used with the moonlight focuser already installed, so it was super simple to set up and use and quite. affordable (especially compared to a refractor!). The weight issue is funny to me. If you get a refractor that has a 1000mm focal length in most cases it will be about the same weight as the MN. The only real disadvantage is wind, which I have experienced. You did not mention the other big issue for the MN190, which is its propensity to gather dew in wet climates since the corrector plate is right in front end of scope. This is easily solved with a dew strap, but just another thing to keep in mind. I highly recommend for astrophotography. I use with a Ioptron CEM40 mount without issue.

Hope all is well since you haven't posted in a while. Thank you for the review. I'm looking to upgrade from an AVX mount which I'm currently using with a C8, Starizona reducer/corrector/ Celestron OAG, ASI174MM guide and ASI071MC. Weight is shy under 19lbs (8.6kg) and this one of only two reviews. Thanks.

Hi RoRo, Did you ever actually use a full-frame camera with this telescope? Can you post your results? SkyWatcher says it's only corrected to APS-C so I'd like to see the stars at the corners of a full-frame camera.

Can you use the mount on a Berlebach tripod instead of an iOptron? Why is the power connection not at the back of the mount instead of the front?

did something happen to your channel? I was subscribed. Looked for some videos on harmonic drives and found yours and clicked on it and found out that I'm no longer subscribed. Weird.

Regarding dark current, one should keep in mind that virtually no location has dark enough skies for the small dark current of new CMOS cameras at even moderate cooling.

The whole f/ratio race is a bit weird to me. The aperture defines how much light gets into the tube, all the f/ratio than does is to tell you how much magnification you get. For visual, it might have some place, but with an f/4 scope the subject is just going to be smaller. If you want that, you can also downsample the images or use bigger pixels...

Just saw that SharpCap Pro - Histrogram tool has a brain function that for your gear and camera and target and filter works out exactly what your optimal exposure time should be - using Dr Robin Glover's algorithm. It suggests way longer exposure times (up to 2x - 6x times longer) than nearly every other astrophotography video I have seen on the web - might be worth an investigation...

So the 15 seconds is like lucky imaging then? It seems like it’s longer than like the lucky planetary imaging.

You probably know this already, since it's been 3 years since you posted the video, but your complaint about having power outlets and USB connections closer to the saddle have been answered by the ASIAIR and a few other on-mount operating systems. I connect my ASIAir to the back end of my dovetail, putting it directly below my focuser and close to the main camera and guide camera. Also, you might like the ADM saddle for the EQ6R-Pro mount, it is a machined piece of aluminum instead of cast, and has both dovetail sizes like the Skywatcher saddle, but holds much more securely. Good review, and a great mount.

Great explanation! Really helpful! Thank you so much.

Hi I know this video is a year old so just wondering if you have found the issues you hoped ZWO would work on regarding PEC have been rectified as of late?

APS-C will have no problem using 36mm unmounted.

I ruled OUT Newtonian telescopes early in my search because of size and awkward eyepiece placement (and spider vanes). Standard Cassegrain are too slow. This is a perfect balance.

With an SCT you are not taking full advantage of the mounts precision. Get a proper telescope for that mount

I saw on the drop down list bin4.....is that possible?

I live under Bortle 6 skies. Sad. And, if I lived under Bortle 9 skies I think I might switch to radio astronomy.

Please do create a video on that

Interesting. Just subscribed.

Great review. Thank you

Overexposing subs is also a consideration!

qhy win here....remember fans vibration and oil leak....

Amazing preesenation skills! Not even a hint of a smirk broke through. You need to do more of these :-) Loved it!

Спасибо, за обзор, хорошее видео. Приобрел данную камеру, жду ясного неба.

I’m planning to do a huge mosaic of the entirety of Cygnus.

36:32 solar prominence - nice!

It doesn't matter if you have incredible (sub arc second) seeing and a 300mm aperture, if you've got 4.6 micron pixels and your 300mm telescope happens to be F/2. The theoretical maximum of the optical system is only relevant if you're oversampled and there is any chance of actually capturing that theoretical maximum. If your telescope has a theoretical maximum of 0.3", and you happen to be in 0.5" seeing on top of a mountain, but your complete imaging system has a 2.2~2.5"/pixel resolution, amount of improvement to your guiding is going to get you anything better than your imaging systems actual resolving limit which is a function of pixel size and focal length. When building an imaging system, it's important for people to consider their best and average local seeing conditions of where they are going to be imaging, as well as their skill level, and pair the right camera and optics to take advantage of those conditions without creating complications that they may not have the skill, knowledge or hardware to resolve...

Good evening, I have a question. When using the Mount with the Nina or Air, is it necessary to have the hand command /GOTONOVA ? Thanks

Is EqMOD necessary for astrophotography?

do you think 9.5 kg is too much for this mount when I still wanna have RMS values <0.7 arcsec?

It's helpful for beginners Great Tutorial I am also an astrophotographer ♥️🇮🇳

Hey Rowan, first of all, thanks for all the time you take into putting these videos. I really like the way you prepare them and how easy to understand they are. I always run to see whenever you post something. I wish you all the best and have happy holidays. Oh BTW, you convinced me and I just ordered this little marvel ;)

One huge elephant in the room that you fail to address, or explain badly As the seeing deteriorates, there is no way to achieve better guiding. If you try then you're just going to be chasing the seeing. Bad seeing = bad guiding.

Thank you for this video.

lol “Just listen to this…”. Oh… 😅 So much innuendo, so little time. What a nice looking precision mount!

Well, having to take the controller with you does have an advantage... If ever you forgot your iPolar, the polar alignment routine in the controller works like a charm ;)

To be honest, When I imaged the orion nebula, a 60 second exposure was way more vibrant than a 120 second exposure although the 120 secs was exposed for 30 mins, and the 60 mins for just 10 mins. For Bright Objects, short exposures are perfect. But when I went for the sculptor galaxy, a 60 second exposure absolutely failed to bring out much detail except for a bit at the centre. A 120 sec was much better and brighter, but still could not detail the outer edges of the galaxy. That is when you realise a 300 -600 sec exposure is perfect for dim objects.