it sounds a little complex, but... i wanna try mono!

To answer the question in the first 10 seconds of the video, before I watch the rest. I would choose 2minutes at ISO1600. The reason is this is the max time I can expose in my area, before sky glow starts to take over. Also I do not use guiding, and I get solid tracking for those 2 minutes. I could do 3.5 minutes, tracking wise, but again to much light pollution. Even under dark dark dark skies, I would choose 2 minutes, because I know it works, and I would not chance wasting time under truly dark skies experimenting. The longer the sub, the greater the chance of a technical glitch spoiling that sub. It has been shown that even with top gear, and bang on guiding, there is zero benefit to going beyond 10 minutes per exposure. I have seen stunning 45 minute subs of M31, but even if I had that rig and Bortle 1 skies, I would max at the 10 minute, but probably 5 minute mark. OK on with the show.

Does the size and type of telescope you are using affect the results?

Excellent review, I've been considering this one coming from an 8" SCT and I'm now sold. thanks!

Thanks for the review. How do you compare this mount with ZWO AM5N?

I'm new with EAA from last year staring May of 2023. Your video is grand! Glad I found your channel! Thanks for sharing and posting this. I learned a lot in such a short well explained video.

Hey Ro Ro, I really enjoyed watching your videos. Hopefully you love your Rainbow Astro RST-135 mount. Keep smiling buddy! Annika 🔮🍹🔭🌍

Collimation... Hi, sorry to bother you again. I went ahead and bougth the S-W MN 190 and it looks GREAT! However I was SUPER DISAPPOINTED to note that Sky-Watcher did not include an instruction manual. I can figure most things out but I dare not start collimating the scope, not least because I found 5 screws instead of the expected 4 beneath the secondary mirror adjustment cap. Can you help me with a link to an instruction manual or at least explain what the 5 screws are and if collimating is the same as on a regular newtonian? Many humble thanks in advance...

I'd love to see an updated video reviewing the HAE29C, it may give similar performance, but it doesn't require the handset for a USB port and the dovetail mount works with Vixen and Losmandy without having to change anything out.

How much of a difference a mount of the quality would make on something like a SCT with floppy mirrors that make the "model building" something that doesn't work well?

Thanks for a great review Rowan, you really transfer an honest and knowledgeable vibe. After months of looking at SCT's/Newtonians I really just discovered this scope today and yours is the first review I watch. Based on that I have already decided to get it 😊👍 I only have one slight hesitation where I hope you can help me. I plan to use it primarily with a ZWO585MC Pro camera, a filter drawer, off-axis guider (with an ASI120mm mini)+ZWO EAF. Will my S-W EQ6R Pro be sufficient for mainly DSO photography? Ps, like you I have W-O Redcat 51 for wide field 👍

Can it do reasonably well galaxies and nebula?

A 20mpx color camera is actually a 80mp sensor divided up by the Bayer pattern, so each pixel is made up of a red, blue and 2green. No loss of resolution.

Just finished watching this, thanks for explaining the process. One question though, why don’t you just take flats with the lens cover of the telescope on instead of covering it with something else? What’s the difference? I’m sure it’s not that simple but I don’t understand why you couldn’t do that. Keep up the great work 👍

All this software is far from practical for visual use.

another reason to use shorter exposure length for me ... the planes flying over me on the way to chicago west - east or north - south to Milwaukee . fewer wasted frames > 120 seconds

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS RORO! I AM SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING THIS MOUNT FROM BILL AT SIDEREAL TRADING, DUE ITS LIGHTWEIGHT PORTABILITY AND VERSATILE PAYLOAD CAPACITY. THANK YOU RORO. A. SORAYA 😊

Very useful. So you did 2 sets of data in the end, right? One set, tracking the comet and another to track stars (to avoid elongated stars on the final image), right?

@RoRo- Your video on the 190MN helped convince me to buy one. It's been great so far, but the focuser sucks rocks. I just got the Moonlite and the mounting plate for that scope. Any tips, lessons learned, etc before I do this install? I'm going to avoid removing any of the optics if I can. Also, the small ring drawn on the secondary mirror - do I want to align that to the center of the focuser or ignore it? I am finding conflicting answers online. Some are saying yes, some are saying it should be offset from the center of the focuser and to only align the full illuminated secondary circle and primary center spot to the center of the focuser. I know not to move the secondary or the main optical elements at all. Thanks!

Yes, and proud you should be! Excellent work Rowen!

Excellent job. Thanks for posting.

I just bought the new version, the HAE29C and I received no test sheet of factory testing? That's disappointing?! I wonder if they no longer provide those in general or if it just happened to be left out of mine when it was packaged??!

601

Really great and efficient way of putting it

Been a long time since saw your last video :( interesting video and good to see you still using the MN 190

Great Video! Did you ever make a video detailing the filter choices to purchase? Also - when do you take the flats for each filter? The following morning with a T-shirt, or do you use some kind of white screen after the imaging session with each filter?

When imaging deep sky objects with bright areas, excessively long exposure times can blow out the bright areas. Each camera imaging sensor has a limit to the number of photons a pixel can hold after which it becomes saturated.

Well done Rohan. Casual without a script is fine. I'm thinking you had to drive about 2 hours. With all those batteries failing, it's a wonder your battery car made it out and back home :-)

Cool! But Saturn disappearing behind the moon isn't an "optical illusion" though, is it? Or am I missing something?

Interesting.

Dude, did you fall in love with the 10micron and eloped into the desert never to be seen again?

Love how the dog suddenly awakes whenever something heavy is getting moved.

The fact you must use approved power adapters is very silly. I don't like that you can't download the drivers from their website either.

thank you for sharing

Awesome 🖖🏼

Any idea if you can pair this with a reducer, like the Starizona Nexus to bring it to 750mm @f3.9 ?

Another great video! Good guiding is round stars. Good guiding is also not sharing guiding information with people on Facebook! LOL!

The second video about this that makes incredible sense..to me

what tele did you use? how did you use the sv105 to get a pic?

Very inter and good for beginners like me

Thanks for the video. I am looking for a tutorial that explains how change (tweak) the RA and DEC to match (or at least get them as close as possible on a given night/conditions.

Just started to watch this… I have watched several of your videos; and thanks for sharing your knowledge. BUT, it does bug me when people say “Our eyes are most sensitive in the green because we evolved to see danger in grasses.” Our eyes are most sensitive at the 555, and with basic understanding of color one would say that’s green. But there is more than just 3 colors and 555 is literally yellow. The star our planet orbits is also a yellow star. Wouldn’t it make more sense that we are more sensitive to yellow because that is the main color of the light that hits our planet? And evolving that way makes as much sense, and then again it would also be that way if an intelligent creator made it (and us) that way. Just another point of view.

Great video Rowan! I am currently looking at the HAE29 and the AM5. You have provided a wealth of information pertaining to the HAE29, which is very scarce. If you could could you'd please provided a more detailed picture for connecting the AA+ and Say Safari for MAC users. That would be most appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to present this great review.

I know this is not a new video but it has been very helpful to me since I’m considering taking the color to mono step. Can you suggest a good video on processing in PI for mono narrowband data?. Also if you have any updates on this current video, please share. Thank you. p.s. I also appreciate the clarity in your presentation.

Absolutely fantastically explained video. You didn't leave anything out, something that's been missing from other videos I've seen. Loved the formulas and charts, and also liked the fact that you did a real test between two methods. The level of detail in this video made me sub instantly. Keep up the awesome content!

I have been using a GPS compass for true north and a digital level for latitude on my manual Meade LX70 with motor on RA for years. Not as accurate as this but do not use it for deep space. And do not have the money for a mount like yours. Poor mans alignment and can be done during the day. I move my mount about because have a limited view of the night sky due to buildings and trees and light pollution. Still fun to do and I am 81yrs.

When the polar alignment turned green then what is the minimum error from perfect?

Great video! Pretty cool and detailed. Do you have the option of using the ASIAIR Plus? Thank you and have a nice day.

I think, the less the time you expose, the more frames you acquire AND the most well-guided images will be taken. At the same time, you ensure your guiding will continue to be as desired, and the focus, as well, so lees frames to be thrown away. Flat fields are an absolute must (fortunately with NINA it seems to be relatively easy, as it calculates the ideal time per filter depending on the minimum and maximum time per filter you set).

I’d rather use a lower exposure and get a more accurate detailed shot, than potentially blowing out my shot with an exposure I had no business taking. The hobby isn’t going anywhere. Take your time and enjoy your time under the stars.