Now how to do I disconnect them from the PCB?

Between soldering and crimping, which is preferred for PWM headers?

I had this video playing in front of me as i did my first coax on the aircraft. Will repeat every single following time

1:00 can you find this method in any aircraft manuals?

Do you still sale these crimper

those are some working hands. ha ha! Nice vid

Just started a job as an avionics harness assembler. I’ll be back!

Genius. Thank you sir

🧟

Im in the military and Avionics on the F22 these videos are very refreshing!

Thanks! I got some of the 22 ga shield terminals with a black trace on a white wire that comes off of the shield that will get an eye terminal that ties to a vacuum tube socket mounting screw. We call it a "DRAIN" not a ground. The original wire needs to be longer so I can swing a pair of caps 180 degrees so those terminals will clear a new bigger more powerful main transformer. Green in that power supply is the 6.3 volt heater wires. Black is DC ground. White with the black stripe is DC chassis ground, but green from the power cord is the safety grounding conductor. I will be running 22 ga mic cable. I just did some RG316 and RG178. They are like miniature RG174 cables. I tease an opening into the braided shield then hook the center conductor insulation and all and VERY carefully pull it through that opening leaving a tail of in tact braided shield wire, with no loose whiskers to short to anything.

speak slowly

⁰

Thanks for the video Stein, much appreciated. I've gotten all my materials from you folks and your support via email, phone, and video is top notch.

I thinj if we use A piece of Teflon tape or heat shrinkable sleve bneith the Strain, the wires will b safe and both the ends almost got same size a more prefect joint.

How would you make 200 ft though, that is my goal.

Any idea how to turn off the LOC feature on the 2310 LCD?

Thanks

Have an assessment for B1 licence tomorrow. Great video explaining the process and the terms correctly!

Nice coax stripper, a bit pricey.

I hate to be that guy. Double cimping those pins is just a recipe for metal fatigue induced cracking and failure of the pin. And the same applies with the outer ferrule.

I wish they had Snap-N-Seal style compression connectors for RG400. I use those on RG-11 and RG-6 cable and they are much nicer. You can strip in one operation and crimp in one more.

great hack, but sure seems like there must be and OEM kind of solution too.

this would NEVER FLY in ANY connection to ANY circuit that provide critical flight safety (flight control trim...hello!). the proper way, the correct way, the minimum way is a connector. And if you don't have the space for a connector, then you run the wire end to end from point a to point b. period...end of story. this is teaching terrible practices. the heat shrink is not a mechanical fastening of the pins and sockets. This is stupid and this would never pass inspection for any FAA regulated repair or service center. maybe this is how you do it in general aviation, or experimental, but this is just plain wrong, no matter what. THE ONLY WAY I COULD SEE ANYONE ACTUALLY DOING THIS WOULD BE FOR SOME A NON ESSENTIAL CIRCUIT OF LOW VOLTAGE AND LOW CURRENT, LIKE A USB SOCKET FOR CHARGING NON ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT. put a connector in your circuits appropriate for the wire and function of the load. Period. If the reason for the connector is to provide a disconnect segment, use one. period. If you don't have the skills or the space to install a connector, then just run the wire from source to load continuously, with no splices. this video should be taken down by steinAir. This is not representative of good standard safe practices.

Why did I google this after twisting 2m by hand. Took forever

Where to get the tool

any update on this build? very interested in how you outfit avionics on this plane since this is the expertise of this channel .

Thanks for these videos, I still refer back to them to refresh my memory on things. I prefer the plastic version of this tool, personally. I always found the plastic one to be easier to work with, though as you say, they do tend to wear out. I just treat them as disposable tools. The metal one is more robust, but I find it harder to get over the wires sometimes, and it's easier to damage the internals of the connector. I still do keep both on hand, but I reach for the plastic version first.

That's ridiculous. Just use the correct pin and crimp tool. In all my life I have never seen anyone grind down a crimp tool or cut and modify a connector pin.

If you run the wire between your fingers as you did before releasing from the drill chuck with maintained tension (wire taut), a few times from end to end... then the wire will form straight. Of course, slowly release. It should not tangle up.

is​ the​ best​ vdo​ best​ view​ camera.​ thank​ you

Thank you for the videos in this series!

Thank you for this, especially the tip about spring back. I’m gonna do this to the signal wires of the maf on my car, plus shield and ground the shield. Idk if it’s all the extra radio waves now that was giving making it read erratic but twisting and shielding worked in my temporary fix i did.

Thank you!

Hi are you suppost to crimp the plastic jacket?

I have a question. The d-sub pins are the same as in the VGA connectors??? does it fit in a breadboard???

can i use normal wires with ferrule terminals for crimping purpose with this tool???

What size is that pin

Thank you, Sir. I never heard of a solder sleeve until recently when I needed to review an array of cable drawings; this certainly helps. 🙏

Лайк!

Hi are the crimpers the same as the one you can get from e. Bay ? As I am in Australia a bit far for you to post ?

Like!

Like!

Like!

I wanted to see in which orientation the pin pushed into the connector Unfortunately for me you did it below the camera view.

bad audio

you can't use a B crimp on the insulation tangs

Thanks for the presentation

I have the exact crimpers and A B on mine is shaped with that curve and point, like the C D E. I think the right way with that terminal would have been crimp using D slot then finish the insulated using C or B