if those are evolv phantoms I'd be curious what the pain profile was pre-stretch. Just bought a couple pairs to test sizing and even going a half size up from my street shoe is both difficult to get onto my foot (each foot takes a bit over a minute or more to get my heel in) and standing is pretty unpleasant though my feet feel like talons (in a good way) while wearing them (and not putting significant pressure on them). Unfortunately I don't have a store nearby that carries phantoms (or really many evolvs at all).

That's a pretty nice video and a important one too ❤ I have just order my new pair The La Sportiva Solution Comp, I ordered them in 42 (street 44) My Tarantula widened quite a bit and were size 43 Looking forward to testing them and feeling the difference 💪🏻

i love this music 🙂‍↕️

There is a sizing guide online that tells you you exactly how much to downsize on pretty much every shoe out there (rockrun)

On that final move your right foot touches a bit of that red hold. Is that still a good send? Just wondering.

v7 in my gym

KH music goes hard ❤

40°ish in the start?

40/50 degrees?

Nice!

Any sizing recommandation and experiences with the new Ondra Comp? I'm looking to buy those next, i'm 43 EU and i tried a 41,5 pair, it was nice but i wonder if half a size larger would be better on the long run for comfiness

I wish these "rock like holds" were more textured and grippy like real rocks

now here's the dilemma with downsizing and what not. I've gone through 4 pairs of shoes now? In all of em, well except the first cuz they were beginner evolve shoes, my heel never felt snug. The dilemma is having HV forefoot and LV Heel. I managed to fit in LV Skwamas and Theory's but even then, the Heel was not snug, there was still a pocket of air. I can still heel hook, but I know for sure if the rubber was constantly folding on itself or my skin was rubbing and slipping in the shoe I could heel hook harder. DOES ANYONE KNOW A SHOE THAT HIS TIGHT HEEL FOR FLAT FEET WITH REGULAR TO HIGH VOLUME (HV) TOE BOX/FOREFOOT?

Some things I would add to the list are not buying shoes after your climbing session. I bought a pair of shoes after my session, but my feet were slightly swollen and more sensitive, so I bought shoes that were too big. Another thing to check is the size of the heel. Make sure that there isn't too much space around the heel otherwise it is difficult to place precise heels. When buying shoes, make sure to strand up in them. They may feel fine when sitting down, but when you put some pressure on it they may be too painful, so make sure to walk around for a couple of minutes and try to put pressure on the toes and try smearing if you can as well to feel what they are like. Finally, for sizing, I found that rockrun has a great sizing guide (not including a link, but you should be able to find it with a search) for lots of shoes and how much they suggest you downsize depending on your climbing style and level. Following that, I was able to pick out my best shoe so far! I spent too much money buying shoes that didn't fit me well, so I hope these additional tips also help others

Definitely agree about the downsizing at the start. Grabbing used shoes at an rei or gym is a great option for a first pair. Was fun getting a chance to climb at Rendezvous earlier this week!

My street shoes size is US8/EU41, and during two years of climbing my climbing shoes size starting from 9.5 (at very beginning, I feel wearing 9.5 is "normal" as my street shoes), down to 8.5, then 7.5, and finally 6.5. Now I feel US6.5/EU39 is the most suitable size for me.

Absolutely agree with not downsizing crazily. Finding the shoes that suits your foot size is wayyyyyy more important than just downsizing

Climbing shoes are one of those things that you absolutely shouldn't buy online. All manufacturers size differently. I have a pair of La Sportiva and another pair of Evolv, both are exactly the same length despite being two numerical sizes apart, because La Sportiva uses regular sizing and Evolv have the downsizing "built in" (ie if you get your street shoe size, they will already be very snug). You just have to give them a try.

tenaya mastia for me! They are good for wider feet. Soft and aggressive. Good for indoor bouldering!

I started with a Butora shoe on sale for $40. I’d advise beginners to be patient and look around for deals.

Downsizing really depends on too many things(your feet, the brand, the model, the materials, how much you climb, what kind of bouldering you do most, ..) to make generalised statements about it. I mean, some days I can't wear my tight shoes just because of how hormonal differences change my feet. That's why I have two pairs of Solution in two different sizes and one is brand new and half an EU-size smaller and while they can hurt while standing on the ground, they don't hurt on the wall and I love how they perform on certain kinds of climbs. And I know that will change over the next 4 months of having them. Honestly, the biggest mistake IMO is not knowing what shoe you like and/or not having at least two pairs of a shoe you like in different stages of wear. And that was my biggest mistake: Having to break in a pair of brand new shoes while not having a backup-pair. Guess it's important to remember the end of the lifespan of a pair of shoes is so dramatically different to the beginning, especially in shoes that can change a lot over time(heck, even with the weather) like the ones made from leather. That's also why trying them on in the store is mostly pointless imo. If you want to find a pair that is perfect for you, there is no better way than to actually get a lot of different shoes and break them in and test them, which you just can't do in the store.

I bought a new pair yesterday and was so hard to settle on which size to choose. I decided to get the smallest size while still not being painful. I hope they dont stretch out too much and be too big.

I too climb to Minecraft music discs😊

I always struggled with top outs but my daughter is a natural, i built a zip line stand that kids have to beach whale until they figure out how to mantel on a sloping top and now both my kids and all my nephews/neices are top out masters

You were so accurate about getting the shoe size too small because of how the internet keep praising "Smaller Shoe = Better", "It should have no wrinkles even if you bend your toe" But by the end of the day if it hurts when climbing it will discourage you to climb, it's just not right.

I love how wacky these routes are getting. Shame it's thousands of miles away! :P

Whelp...V1 in my gym

Your gym bro is getting soft and weak!

I personally use these for indoor bouldering and love how soft they are. I used them outdoors this year once, and not sure if I would again as the rubber did start to show more wear from the granite. I have barely used my Instinct VS since I bought these lol

omg the minecraft music hit so hard

Who said it is ez? You only make it look ez.

OK I climb V15 everyday.

Dude the sun in the shot behind you. That is a a cover shot. Route looks fun also.

Ah, I see. The V6 tag was just put on upside down 😂 In all seriousness, thank you for sharing. You are a strong climber!

It should be inspired by the boulder "off the wagon"

Damn nice V4-V5

I climbed my first black route and on video it looks so unbelievably easy yet this was my project for a month and the holds as well as the foot holds were near to non existent. The sheer amount of body control you have to have is crazy yet it looks so not impressive. I hope it does to boulders tho haha

Grades are fun to compete with yourself. I would choose an interesting v3 over a regular boring v4 everyday tho. Do what you want to do because your goal is to have fun.

That looks so fun!

this is so cool

7:44 “and then kelp because it’s the holidays in idk Tahiti” 🤣

Older. Like you? What, are you like 25? Ur so funny!

You still make it look easy

Ayo Mission Valley love out here

"If the climb is fun, it's worth it"

Aren’t you only supposed too go for the red ones tho? I’m sure that would make it harder

I want to find a soft V7 😅

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Yall crack me up😂😂😂 I shamelessly double stacked the pads haha

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