Yeah it came from Delaware, I didn’t bring it to PA, but a friend of mine did.

Yeah, I need to plan better next time. 😂

Thanks! I was genuinely surprised when it started. I really didn’t think it would. 😂

It’s so true. All the touch screens and digital and computers in the new cars are just going to make them useless once they stop sending out updates or the touch screen goes bad and the heat stops working or something. These XJ are so simple and easy to work on. I wish they were not all rusting away. 😢

Thanks!

Carefully. There is a small clip and it’s just a squeeze and pull. It is a little difficult to pull, but i have not nay any that I couldn’t get out yet.

@ Hi, I can remove the plug. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for watching!

You would think, but anything newer than 1999 on those has some problems that really makes it rare they get past 160kmi without a head replacement or head gasket.. and the ones that do survive run very hot... but you can watch that jeeps' progress here... My daughter named it Betsy Ross XJ and we put a new-ish engine in it and fixed all the rust holes!... kzbin.info/aero/PLD1PD1Ynr-uhHQKx_qS43CSzWh1kOV34-

😂😂it’s true! 😂

a.co/d/5VXm85G Not sure the part number but this is the unit. Just ask for a regulator

Oldest, ugliest, tallest… one of those badges got me the extra work. 😂 😂

Thanks for watching! I’d say Build two strokers. 😂 but for real… it’s not that bad of a job with the 4cyl to get out but the 6cyl is a bit more. Because it doesn’t have as much room to slide forward off the transmission before going up. And you have to lift way over the grille. It’s just a different animal. And I don’t know if it’s worth doing twice just to retain the original block… but I completely understand why someone would do it and i would have the same struggle building a spare engine instead of my original one.

@@MalarkeyTaylor When I pulled the spare from the donor, I took the grille off and yanked the engine, trans and TC all in one shot haha. I have a 4.2 crank and rods thats like half the battle on the parts. My buddy said he had another polished crank that I could have so maybe I could do 2 haha

That sounds like a swirl flap movement problem. Some of the newer ones have a sensor on the flap runner that will sense when it’s not moving right. I’d recommend having it looked at, and either disable it or repair it.

@ were is this sensor? Can you explain it to me? It is I think the newer model 2011 facelift ml 300 with the newer Airmass sensors.

@ the sensor is on the intake runner for the swirl flap. It’s not accessible without removing the intake manifold.

@ so ihr the swirlflap Motor

@ near to it. On the runner for the flaps.

Thank you!

It can be tricky. To get them. I have found that running the fuel tank between 1/2 and 3/4 full and taking long drives at a steady speed tends to get them set. If you have too much trouble, though sometimes calling the dealer and asking for the drive cycle procedure can result in a printed instruction sheet. Or it might also be found in the factory service manual for the car on alldatadiy.com. I have found fsm to be very helpful when DIY fixing my own cars.

🤫

😂 it will be worth the wait. I hope… 😂

Oh we talked about the 4.0L but that would mean transmission transfer case and drive shafts all change with it. Thats way more work than just popping a fresh 2.5 on. My dad is 73 and barely ever goes more than 45mph. So the little 2.5 does just fine. I will look at some electric fan options though. I do feel like the belt fan is so much overkill for this rig.

@MalarkeyTaylor Fair enough. Aye, you would've indeed had to source an AX15. Do look into the fan upgrade. Relatively inexpensive, but significant upgrade.

Thanks! Yeah I really hope this one works out. 🤞it was way Harder to find a decent little 2.5L than I anticipated. 😳

Too nice to let it go…but not nice enough to make it nicer.

At the time I made and posted this video the total shipped to my house was $169.59 USD. A solid $100 less than the predator at the time. But that was over a year ago, so times have changed like they normally do.

@ with the bilt hard I could see that. But I’ve been doing go kart stuff for years and not once have I seen a brand new predator over or even close to $200 never mind $269.

@ the predator 212 cart engine on harbor freight right now is $329.99 or $299.99 for inside track members. So you can be in cart racing as much as you want I do the internet better? www.harborfreight.com/212cc-ghost-kart-racing-engine-57531.html

Good luck! Nice tight bushings go a really long way for coil sprung axles!

I think the threads are M10x1.0 but I’m not sure. I had a bunch of these lug nuts sitting around my shop from something and they just happened to fit. So I didn’t need to go chasing it. I think it’s a common wheel lug size for mid size trucks and SUV.

I have not tested the hatch lock, or defrost yet. But I did leave the plastics off because I fully expect to have to address the hatch harness too. 😢

Defroster is the orange wire on the left front door. Mine was broken. This video was quite valuable. Thank you! I am trying to figure out what the Green and black wires coming from the speaker wire on the left door were connected to. IThink it was spliced and going to a green wire in the door that is broken off as well. Fun times. I am glad you explained about the extra tweeter option. After all this, when I buy my new door speakers, I am probably just going to put in a whole new wire to the radio. Thankfully now I know that other conne tion is not important and just would go to that extra tweeter. :-)

During the process of priming the fuel filter I turned the key on with the MAF sensors unplugged. The codes cleared by themselves after just a drive cycle or so.

Thanks for the reply. Also did you drain coolant and oil for this, or just top up at the end. Does anything need bleeding after

@ yes, I drained the oil and the coolant for this. I also ran it for a while maybe 3-400 miles and then changed the oil and coolant a second time to be sure there were not any leftover contaminates. That is probably overly cautious. But at a minimum oil change and coolant drain to do the work. Also, I took the opportunity to change the fuel filter and air filters while it was all out.

Can you see the broken piston and locked up motor too? 😂🤪

@@MalarkeyTaylor nope, but if I squint real hard I can see an LS swap. 🤣😂

Good luck! It’s been working great for me.

I wish I still had crank windows. They were so much more reliable.

Yessir. Older models had a more traditional fuel filter and a fuel rail return line and regulator at the fuel rail. It wasn’t until late 1995 or 1996 they started using the in tank regulator and no return line.

yeah, I didn't go into it in very great detail in this video. but there are some issues with LED headlights and the Jeep XJ. especially if you have the factory fog light package. They use a confusing complex routing of electric to activate the high beam indicator light on the dash. and because many LED lights use so little electric draw they don't work right. The best thing to do to solve it is to first install a aftermarket headlight relay harness kit (widely available) and in some cases snip the extra wire on the driver side headlight harness that borrows the ground connection for the fog light relay. It's complicated but also fairly easy to find by searching forums and KZbin for the correct solution. Maybe someday I'll do a video on it..

Take good care of it while you’re young! 😂

thanks! you too! back pain is terrible I hope your recovery is quick too!

@@MalarkeyTaylor Thanks bro! I receive my healing In Jesus Name! I hope to get filming some footage myself soon 👍

Sorry to hear about your shoulders. I’ve been down that path too. it’s hard to describe how fast it goes from no pain to all of the pain because some strange twisting motion. I’m grateful my back seems to calm down and get back in order and doesn’t seem to have long term pain; but when it has these fits it really disturbs progress on all fronts.