Thank you! And thanks for watching!

Thanks, and thanks for watching! The wheelbase on the D5MR is 257mm. This MST Widebody Mustang fits the best of all of them I have tried so far, really love this body!

@@shawn_of_the_shred Testfitted my Tamiya 257mm BMW E30 body on the chassis. Just not as it should fit. Went with the APlastics E30 touring wich has 260mm wheelbase. Those 3 mm do matter for perfect fitment. Got a cheap Mustangbody from Ali thinking it would be too narrow but that fits. It’s the GT4 version. Wanted to make fenderflares from desertcups. Going to try and wrap that. Saw some guys do that. Thanks for your answer. Appreciate it. Cool to see everyone makes his own style.

That sucks, sorry to hear that. Hopefully it never maintains angle for them and may they drift into every barricade twice. lol

✌️ Appreciate that! Thanks for watching.

@@shawn_of_the_shred love my roadster 370z

They have been holding up better than expected. I use Adams wheel cleaner on them to remove brake dust and it doesn't affect the finish at all. They still look great and don't show any scratches or scuffs from the wheel brush or tire brush.

Thanks so much, greatly appreciated. Yeah, absolutely, the paint held up beautifully. The body not so much. This Z was from a newer company and was a little thicker poly than is traditional, so it cracked in several places instead of absorbing impacts. You can check out the damage in my Santaizi 350z Review video (link below), it shows the cracks that travel halfway up the body, but no chipping of any paint! It's now on a display chassis and has been retired. 350z Shell Review kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppS1eaqvjLxmmZY

I got mine from ebay, exact item I purchased is linked below: Thanks for watching! www.ebay.com/itm/252984414847

I give you mad props for watching my video, thanks dude! You rock!

Nice. Happy drifting, thanks for watching!

Hell yeah it is, fake ass product. What can you do...adapt. Duct tape, some gum maybe. Eh, it's fine.

They are fun little cars. Get one, do it. Do it. Lol, thanks for watching!

Absolutely. Happy to hear it helped ya, thanks for watching.

Me too bro. From Kerala 🍃.

That is awesome to hear, just made my day! Really, thanks for watching and being a fan. I didn't even know I had fans! Lol, happy drifting!

Honestly, you raise some valid concerns. To be quite truthful, I think this is more on the toy scale, with some upgradability, but is still fairly basic. While you do have many tuning options in the kit, I don't believe there is really any aftermarket parts or support for this like there is the K989. I have seen aluminum parts, CF decks, motor upgrades, etc. for the K989, but not really any of that for this one. However, I also run a D5MR for drift, so I haven't really looked for much to upgrade my HM Vulture beyond the parts that came with it at the time of purchase.

Oh nice! You drift up at DARC? I don't run this body anymore, but if you see me up there, come on over and say hello. I have several bodies that I switch out, hard to say what I'll be driving, lol I'm usually the one crashing. Happy drifting! Thanks for watching!

Hi @JustRCCrazy, first, thanks for watching! I used 'double barrel' design connectors, so they go from 4mm to 5mm and can be used for either cell size. The ones I specifically used are from TQ Wire - Part # TQ2511 and can be found at most local shops, or via www.tqwire.com

Gracias! Thanks for watching!

no, ride hight is the same cause the lip lines up with the bumper at the lowest point. you might still scrape because t lip makes the car front longer wivh means you have to go around pot holes wider

Thanks, really appreciate that. I am lowered on BC Racing coilovers, not sure the ride height, but it's definitely lower than stock. I do have to leave my driveway at an angle, or go very slowly...it does scrape sometimes, but not too bad. Overall, this lip is approximately 1.5 - 2 in. below the bottom of the bumper in the center. The kit includes S brackets to help stabilize the bumper since it has space between the bumper and lip. The nice thing is that it is made of a very durable polyurethane, so it can take the abuse. I hit a dip too fast a few weeks back and ripped the tab on the bumper where it connects to the fender by the wheel, but the lip just had a little road rash on the bottom, took it like a champ.

Hi @muratozkan8394, thanks for watching. Hopefully it isn't broken, not sure if I can help but I'll try. When I got mine, it did take some time to adjust the settings and get it to drive smoothly. The settings on the controller do help, but you may also need to tune the suspension if you haven't yet. If you take off the body, there are adjustment screws for the front suspension. You may have to adjust these slightly by gently tightening them down all the way and then backing them off about a 1/4 of a turn at a time and test driving it. Once you get it to respond and steer as you want, you can then try adjusting the settings on the controller. The following are my settings: TH-LM - 20/50/100 is set to 100 ST-REV is set to NOR TH-D/R is on setting 5 ST-D/R is on setting 4 SVC is on setting 5 ST-TRIM is dead center Hopefully that helps!

If the car shakes when driving straight, your SVC setting is too high. The SVC setting controls the gyro's sensitivity/response. I've had success with setting it to about the 60% mark, but it should work fine anywhere between 50-75%. Note that the more you turn down the SVC, the more the car will spin out if you give it too much throttle or turn too sharply. So if you turn down the SVC a lot, you may also want to slightly decrease the throttle setting and/or steering setting. Otherwise, you just have to be much make much smaller movements when steering and giving throttle. Lastly, if you prefer your SVC setting higher for drifting, like 75%, you have to go slower when going straight, otherwise the gyro will make the car shake, or just never go straight and instead always be drifting. It is a drift car after all

Hi @frankiesrcs8116, thanks for watching. Initially, I used a combination of brown and gold paint markers on the outside, which allowed me to adjust the amount and pattern if I wasn't happy with the look, as it can be cleaned away with rubbing alcohol. However, after seeing how it turned out, I want to add some texture to it. I picked up some iron ore powder and a slow drying glue (Elmer's), which is also peelable if I didn't like it. I lightly put some glue around the holes, let it drip slightly (or drag it where you want with a coffee stirrer) and then lightly sprinkle the iron ore powder into the glue. Once I had finished that process, I sprayed it with a rust activator and let it sit overnight. Voila, real rust the next morning. I have a video in the works to show this process, look for it soon!

Hi @jakepethick, thanks for watching! It really doesn't take much paint at all when airbrushing, especially if using a solid color. Candy, pearl, iridescent paint doesn't cover as well, so can take more paint to get the coverage you are looking to achieve. A single bottle of Spaz Stix or similar airbrush paint should be able to paint multiple bodies. I just finished an FC3S that is 90% a single color, and I used about 1/2 of an oz. out of the 2oz. bottle. Hope that helps, happy painting!

Hi @Skylord76543, thanks for watching. The link to where I bought mine is available at the bottom of the video description. Enjoy!

Hi @tattedgranny5753, thanks for watching. It is a Duralast Starter DL9715S, picked up from AutoZone when my stock one tested as a bad unit.

Yeah, it's 1/76 scale. I believe I mention that, and that it is very close to Hot Wheel size...only those comparing them side by side will really notice the difference. Thanks for watching.

You're welcome, and I would have to agree. They really try to make working on it more difficult than it should be so that you just take it to a service center. Not cool Mercedes, not cool. LOL, thanks for watching!

@@shawn_of_the_shred I REGRET BUYING ONE..

No, the kit I bought was without any electronics. I choose the ReveD RS-ST drift servo for my build. If you order it from the 3Racing website, you can get it with a gyro, or choice of servo from a couple options, in which case, I would have chosen the Brushless S15 servo.

Thanks for the sub! Have fun with your new car!

No problem, enjoy the car!

That's a great deal! Enjoy, it's lots of fun!

Enjoy, it's a fun little car!

I changed out some of the settings, left the front diff open, swapped to drift tires, and geared it for acceleration. It's not nearly as controllable as a drift car with a gyro, but it slides fairly well on tile.

Nice. It's a fun car. I haven't really got to check out the mini z setup, but I may get one in the future to play around with.

I had a similar issue building mine. Can you see anywhere that the steering bridge or steering arms are binding on anything when trying to turn by hand? Next place I would check would be the alignment of the steering servo arm. I originally had mine on at the wrong degree (manual calls for 17 degrees of angle) and it was causing it to lock up on one side. Hope that helps!