Very interesting, thank you

In reference to cnc drilling cycle time frame 8 minutes 02 seconds and beyond the drill chuck is not concentric causing the drill to act more like a boring bar than a drill. I recommend a small precision chuck may solve the problem.

A very interesting and practical video. I have had very similar problems with the wooden wheel clocks that I design and make. I suspect that the meshing on the first pinion must be very accurate with the pivot distances within about 1/100 inch. With the heavy drive weights, such as those used for 8-clocks, the pivots are forced apart to the outer extremities of the pivot holes thus making the meshing less precise. Therefore, I use minimal side-shake for the great wheel arbor and the arbor carrying the first pinion. Maybe as the pivot holes wear very slightly meshing becomes more problematic. Can you check on your computer how much the pivot distances can widen before the meshing jams?

I calculated the pendulum length as being just under 202cm based on a rough timing of the ticks giving me an average period of 2.85 seconds.

Its great to see you in the workshop building models

A friend has looked up local archives and found he is listed in the 1901 census as living in Winterbourne aged 77 and as a clockmaker. Under the word Winterbourne there is a date but very crudely stamped in with 2 very small sizes of punch. 1878. I find it hard to believe that this was done when the modification was so well made.

Interesting clock Colin, I was surprised how slow the pendulum was swinging.

Hi Collin A man of your skills I believe should be able to complete the smaller model, for full steam operation. Yes the larger model will be easier but great costs to complete. Remember their is a large community you can call to assist if needed. Will be great to view your progress.

Good to see you back. Ring the British horological institute

Lovely to see this type of work. My grandfather and father were both horologists and seeing this work being done brings joy to me. Thanks for sharing these very well edited videos and your skills for the younger generation like me to admire and learn from!

I know this is a old video but what a beautiful clock. I recently restored a William Webb skeleton Fusee clock like yours. It's on my channel and like to see what you think.

Sounds to me as though it just needed bedding in. The extra leverage giving it what was required.

When you set the holes for the shafts, did you use a depthing tool or just from measurements?

Only just found your channel, well done Sir.

Nice video Sir, well done.

Maybe you should try making some Lignumvitae bushings. Those wood bushings are supposed to last a really long time. There's a Harrison clock running in a barn that's a couple hundred years old.

Awesome clock! Thanks for sharing this. Hopefully, my John Wilding clock will be done next year. You are 40 years ahead of me. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.

I think thats an excellent tool, reasonably simple, but totally fit for purpose. I could do with one of a similar size, so have been looking at a few different designs, and yours looks like one I'd like to have a go at making. Good video, thanks for making it available.

Don't give up that balance wheel has about a dozen screws that can be advanced outward. In fact you might even screw on a few bits of extra metal. That oughta slow it down.

How about spray silicon lubricant?

You may try to find some silicon lubricant for the balance staff of the 3-D printed Turbion. I'm convinced it will work.

it looks like the 3-D printed Turbion is sticking when the roller jewel meets the pallet fork. I wonder if there's extra material on the jewel preventing it from entering the fork smoothly, or possibly the fork is touching the roller table. It might be necessary to polish the pallet Jules. But I think it's diagnosable somehow.

Thanks for the video Colin. I have a job much like this coming up, the wife and I bought a chain driven grandfather's clock 40 odd years ago and it no longer runs properly. I suspect that I need to do the whole strip it down to the last bit, but that clock with the chimes has a whole lot more bits. I am almost tempted to bury a microprocessor system in it and use that to actually run the clock, with the falling weights providing the electrical power.

Happy birthday Colin.

Lovely to see an old locomotive given a new lease of life. Thanks for showing us how you restored her.

Happy 90th Birthday 💪 Keep up the awesome work and all the best

Happy birthday! Interested in your DeWinton drawings, I’m about halfway through doing my own, would be good to compare

Happy 90th birthday Colin.

I could see the laser dot, it was a fraction under your printed scale! The laser needs to come up 4-5mm for you to see it...

Making a saxophone wood mouthpiece is very accurate. Thank you for your efforts. I'm also a saxophone mouthpiece handmade sculptor.

Amazing how fast the pickle bath works. A nice engine you have there.

As we get older, more and bigger is the key. At my age, I really need this to be 6 feet tall and at 20 feet. Perhaps I should build a bracket that aims the laser at the ceiling at say a 45 degree angle and then mount a scale up there.

A belated happy birthday, Colin, and I'm sorry to hear you had to sell the project on. Hopefully the new owners will be able to continue the level of care and detail you've given it. I've been watching this series today after discovering I wouldn't be able to do the work I'd planned for mine and have been learning a lot. Especially about not trusting drawings!

I wonder if the cutouts in the end caps were there just to save cost - at this scale it wouldn't make a difference but i imagine if you were casting the full size ones you could save quite a lot of material doing so, especially if you're making hundreds!

Quite a bit of fun. Soon all you will have left to do is the simple bit, the boiler.

The grub screw should be more than enough.

The amount of precision needed is staggering. You are doing quite well.

It's a pity that the foundry was not good for you. That is sad.

I find it interesting that you are feeding away from the headstock. I do like the cutting out of the steam passages in the sleeve, it does really make good sense.

Very nice

WOW you are amazing. That is a work of art. Love it.

У ТЕБЯ СВЕРЛА ПРОВОРАЧИВАЮТСЯ . ХОРОШИЙ МАСТЕР ТАКОГО СЕБЕ НЕ ПОЗВОЛЯЕТ .

I speak under correction, but I believe the reason pivot steel comes in "random sizes" is because it's made from piano wire and therefore would be sized according to the dictates of the relevant musical notes.

You and your friend are correct, instruments carry much of their perceived value on name recognition (aka snob appeal) and with whom they are associated. Country of production and component part composition affect value. Manufacturers still make instrument lines for specific price points, even Buffet has student plastic options. Having a quality older wooden clarinet reconditioned just cost me over $600, and it was in good shape to start. I want to make one of these lamps, but it will be done with a low value plastic instrument, like we would keep for outdoor winter marching band...lots of them available.

Hi Colin, what a fascinating video. Thank you for taking the time to make it and share it. 👍 Mark

Hi Collin. I think you have great idea and it's simple.

Hi Colin, one of your videos just popped into my feed. I'll be playihng catch up on this little series. Cheers Mark

This was awesome...VERY interesting. I would consider myself 'not mechanically inclined in any way', and this had me wondering if I had an old clock packed away somewhere. I'll be watching for the next installment!

Having looked through your trials and tribulations I respectfully don't think your problem is with the gear train. During this video you show a side view which partly shows the escapement. Although not the best view, I think there is too much drop in the escapement action. Drop is the amount of free travel of the escape wheel after being released by the entry pallet, and conact with the exit pallet, and vice versa. This amounts to wasted energy, which should be being used to impulse the pendulum. Also there doesn't appear to be much recoil of the escape wheel. It may be possible to lower the pallets if the drop is too much on to the entry pallet, or close (bend) the pallets if there is too much drop on to the exit pallet. In the worst case it may be necessary to remake the pallets. I should add that I have made this clock and it works reliably! Alan Swainston

thanks for posting, building a Wilding's Skeleton clock is on my list, but don't know when I'll get there,