That would have been crazy. Seen it happen with a few dodge trucks. Not sure what happened in there case.

Pretty sure that one i used a in take pump from a later model that had the wiring in tank from ebay. You can buy a new sender unit and it comes with all of it. Or just use a in line pump will also work

It just plugs in not to hard

What part of the country are you in? It's not a hard just just a fair bit of work

Was just a ebay clutch

Nv4500 transmission

The bed is the most expensive part right now. Depending on how much you can get a bed for. Around $1500 for a bed $300-500 for the drive shaft. If you Payed some to cut it maybe a $1000 on metal work. I used all original brake lines and fuel lines and wiring so save money there.

Appreciate that. Been fixing a tlheap of 6.7 trucks. My ford videos never got enough attention to make videos about them.

I am back in texas now. Was in Montana for a couple of years

I would think there the same but I am not sure. I would buy one side base and see. If it's not right send it back if it is buy the other side

@@choppedinc. I ended up getting some power seats from a 2005 in very good shape and am going to replace the drivers only. do you happen to have the link for these? I know it's been a while since you did this video. Thanks!

Had fun with it and sold it sorry 😞

@@choppedinc. buy another one And make it nice

If you have all the parts you can do it in a weekend no problem.

In this case it did.

11-16 f250 f350 think there $70 on ebay

Absolutely it's not a bad job to do yourself

I still have the 1500 axle. If I have a problem there a dime a dozen to replace. Better to redo the fuel line and modify the pickup in the tank. Also I ran 3500 coil springs up front. 2500 would probably work aswell. If you got a donor vehicle I would use them. I also used all 3rd gen cummins ac system and radiator and intercooler.

No problem

Still around just on the back burner. Life happens unfortunately

I got everything from ebay. When you order parts make sure it's for a 4.8 manual

If there both drive by wire or cable generally there the same and should just bolt in. If your charging to wire you will need the pedal and the module. Fuel lines you can takfrom the Tahoe or you can buy the quick connect fitting on ebay or run a rudder line with a couple of hose clamps.

Fuel pump and exhaust will be fine. V6 and v8 exhaust are the same flange

No problem, it's really a pretty straightforward job and transforms the interior

It was crazy cheap but I can't say it will always be that good. Got the frame with the cab and had the transmission aswell. All for $500. Sold the doors for $100 each. I will say if your going to try it get a manual transfer case. And then all you need to do is wire up the front diff solenoid.

I used the ones from the v8 truck but you can buy just the quick connect fitting that go on the rail ends online aswell

Ok thats interesting. I just got my first hog ring set online, was very cheap. Have not tried it like that before

@@choppedinc. Whatever method you choose good luck with it. I just cut the old leather seat bottom off and stretched the new one on and connected the plastic clamps that attach under the seat and on the sides. Ive driven the truck twice and the new cover has settled to conform with the foam underneath. Not all manufacturers use those hog rings because back in 1989 on my 70 cadillac split bench seats when I tore out the old seat bottoms the replacement leather sat right on the foam, BUT it did have wire circle clamps like hog rings that attached the underneath to the metal seat frame, but no hog rings under the top of the seat at all, but I could see where some glue similiar to vinyl top spray glue or brush on glue clung on the old leather under side. I think people should just start using the foamy vinyl top spray and spray on the top of the foam and make sure its a slow drying type

I would double check the pin outs and see what's different from the early to late harness

Definitely not. Was a fun truck to drive. Slamming gears

Because it was a cab chassis I moved the factory spring hangers forward. Plug welded the rivet hole and welded all the way around. Zero problems from doing it like that

I used f250 leaf springs not the 350 ones

Can use all the factory wiring and fuel lines. You do have to shorten the brake line. Plenty of videos on how to reflair the pipe. Just have to cut the frame and then the drive shaft. Depending on the area you live there should be a few drive shaft shops if not ask some of the big truck shop they will know someone normally. Inland truck parts have shorted them for me before.

Are you talking about the front part? The short bed frame had a small amount of damage right at the front of the frame on the drivers side

Unfortunately that was a long time ago and all the parts are gone

Best way is find a v8 that's the same year. Need the engine harness and the computer and the frame mounts the engine mounts bolt to. V8 computer will need to get tuned to take the security of then its pretty much bolt in. Even the v6 exhaust is the same. Harness will just plug in to the factory fuse box if it's the same year.

Best way to do it is find a engine from the same year truck and get the complete wiring harness. It will then plug in to your existing wire no cutting. If it's a automatic you can use the v6 transmission. You will need to get the v8 computer tune. Remove all the vats, vehicles anti theft stuff and any other tuning you need. The v6 exhaust will also work. It's a very straight forward swap. Make sure you get the v8 with the engine mounts and the bits that bolt to the frame. There is 2 long bolts that run through the bit in the frame. And there is a difference between the 2wd and 4wd ones, so make sure you get the ones for your application.

Yes I did. It worked fine. Just replaced the throw out bearing.

No you don't, any harness will work. Just need the computer to be flashed for the combination you are doing.

@@choppedinc. thanks for reply homie!!!

?

I was wondering the same

It's just the wiring for the computer. Sure there are plenty of wiring diagrams online. Or even standalone harnesses you can buy. But that's the only difference really

I just looked on ebay. Seamed to be the cheapest place around

Yes bolting up is fine. Just need to make sure you have the flywheel and clutch from a 4.8 manual transmission. I got the clutch and flywheel of ebay as one purchase. Also need a thrust bearing for the crank aswell. I used arp flywheel and clutch bolts. Fairly cheap on ebay

Thrust bearing must be installed? Doesn’t the 5.3 gen 3 already have some?