Really helpful. One of the better night exposure videos on KZbin.

Just curious does the back of this camera rotate? It looks like it has a second tripod mount on the side thats why Im asking

0:32 What did you measure there? Smell of your fart?

pre-flashing, like other viewers have suggested. Should bring the contrast down

They look great. 🤩

I use a deep yellow filter and rate my paper at ISO12 with pretty good results.

I am impressed. I have purchased from Kamerastore in past, but will definitely purchase from the in the future.

Great video! I've been shooting paper negatives off and on for almost 20 years, and the only suggestion I would offer that I haven't seen mentioned in the comments section is to shoot using an Ilford 00 filter-the filter used in darkroom printing. This will greatly reduce the contrast, offering a more forgiving negative. These filters normally come in a set (00-5). I would recommend purchasing them new. Most used darkroom/printing filters are quite scratched.

Really interesting, thank you for sharing. Keep well & Merry Christmas 👍🇬🇧

Being familiar with your work, I like this look, but your subject matters may not be the best for this limited DR approach. The crushed whites and blacks, I feel like it would suit some other genres really well, even street. Trying to bend it towards more of a higher DR subject matter may just result in frustration and disappointment, so then it becomes a challenge to find subjects where the look compliments rather than 'expose' its flaws. It's a look for sure, I really like the cemetery shot the most, possibly because of the genre here, suits that kinda grungy vibe.

if you want to you could probably get fiber paper and iron the paper extra flat, most darkroom paper is meant to be put into an easel which flattens it, you could add adhesive to the holder because fiber is expensive. But I would also think it would be pretty neat if you were to do more darkroom printing. fiber paper also has more silver overall and will have a bit more detail overall. Also what you need to account for is the orthochromatic nature of darkroom paper, it will not take a lot of colors and will probably take an array of color filters to control the contrast on the paper over all, you'll need heavy warming overall but I would do more research.

the noises this machine makes could be a video of their own; the whirring and clicking is almost mesmerising

Looks fun!

Really enjoy these more experimental videos. You've inspired me to shoot film for the first time in about 30 years. Just finished a roll of FP4 shot with a loaned AE1 program. Some program mode, some using the light meter and some sunny 16 method. Can't wait to see the results. I think I know why you shoot film now.

Very interesting. Doing still life indoor photography under some diffused light from a window could look good in this

The bow in paper is so you know which way is up. Emulsion.

Hello Kyle, I have been considering the Horseman FA or the HD for some time now. I have never seen one. I did own a Horseman VH a number of years ago. I have a question. I don't know if you have the answer. Can you tell me if there is a difference in the front standard of each camera. I found the knobs on the front of the VH somewhat small for my liking. Not a deal breaker for me but I would like to know what I'm getting into. Thanks Matt

scandinavian linus haha

Why are You wearing gloves?😅 A little overkill don't you think?

I just thought of using multigrade filters in front of the lens. Using a 00 for instance, would only expose the low-contrast emulsion. However watch out for what colors are in the scene as I think those are going to be even further distorted.

that fourth image of the gravestones is beautiful. really works with the material and process. please continue experimenting with and learning this process

Have you considered an older enlarger lens?

Thinking back to my days in a darkroom in the 1980s, yes I think that the yellow/green filter is just reducing the contrast. Maybe as low as a paper grade of 1 or so. Back in the day about 130 units of yellow gave the lowest contrast, (grade 00) on a focomat, but as a tungsten source, it is lacking in blue compared to daylight. So I'd bung on the strongest yellow filter I could find :) Contrast is controlled by the mix of blue/green. without a filter the paper would be around grade 2-3

I wasn't looking for another camera BUT...stumbled upon a beautiful Ikoflex TLR in it's case for $12.00 at a flea market...Also found lenses for my vintage Pentax (1958) at a thrift store for $5.00 each.....Sometimes fate smiles on you.....John (west coast, Can.)

In college I had to build the pinhole camera which we used paper and it the paper had a set grade

i think your find 4x5 paper is not the same size as 4x5 sheet film i had the same problem i used an old price of sheet film and made a card template and under safe light cut the paper to size i have not had any problems doing that you can also pre flash the paper that also can help.

If you put two pieces of photo paper together in the darkroom, one exposed negative and one blank canvas and shine a light through the exposed paper for a fixed duration, you get a positive image on the blank canvas

I've made pinhole cameras with black foam core to use 8x10 sheets of photo paper for film. Crazy long exposure times of course, but it was a fun process and ended up with a handful of good exposures (considering the constraints of the process).

I hate to be a downer, but, all those chemicals you flush down the toilet or pour down the sink after development can't be good for the environment. I am glad people are still shooting on film and developing their own negs, but it's something to think about.

I have owned a CLA’ed YashicaMat 124G and Rolleiflex Automat MX 3.5 and sold the YashicaMat 124G since I had the Rolleiflex. I can say when I printed a 12x12 scanned negative from the YashicaMat 124G, the contrast and detail was phenomenal. I think you can’t go wrong with either one.

So, you sat at a desk to discuss your activities without a proper, merely parts of a you could have been creating

I have hundreds of 35mm negatives of old family photos from the 80s and 90s. I have a Nikon D3100C. But I need to source a macro lens. Will the Nikon D3100 be sufficient with the VALOI easy35?

very inspirational video, some great ideas that I will try to implement myself! BTW was that a 2CV photo illustrating the phrase "British Cars"??!!!

Very good and insightful video, Kyle. I am thinking about printing my work going forward and this video really inspired me. I learned so much. Thanks for your efforts and also thanks to Noah. Looking forward to seeing more from you! Best to you

This is really crazy (two Windows servers, seriously? have they heard about Linux? ), but still fun, and it feels like something I would've done myself if I had more space.

Might I offer this advice, after years of working with paper negatives: 1) Pre-flash the paper with a faint, even exposure, just enough so that, if developed without an in-camera exposure you get a light gray tone; 2) Use paper developer at half normal concentration, but develop for at least 2 minutes, or more; alternatively you can use film developer but you get about the same result as dilute paper chemistry but it takes much longer; ensure your developer chemistry is at the proper temperature; 3) Ignore the sky highlights as you evaluate the image coming up in the development tray, instead concentrate on the mid tones and shadow detail; it’s okay to leave the paper in for more than 3 minutes to ensure you get better mid tones; 4) A yellow filter is suggested for MG paper, but increase your exposure to compensate; 5) Better than using a yellow filter is to use fix-grade 2 RC paper (available in the States from Freestyle Photo); I rate grade 2 RC paper at ISO 12, much faster than MG paper with a yellow filter, and lower contrast images whose contrast is independent of the color of light.

Your dedication to photography and whole journey is awesome 💯💯💯👏👏💯💯💯💯

Great experiment! I think this photo paper needs a double exposure and the use of gradient filters. In the darkroom when exposing the photo paper, you always work with covering areas of the picture. Maybe a similar technique will help out on the field. Best regards, Christian.