Dude!!! You just saved me a TON of money!! I followed the instructions in the dryer and I have the exact same issue.

Wow, that was easy! I miss working for my parents when money was good, I could spend time on doing stuff like this. That was a super thorough job. If my mom saw you, she would say you are a REAL Repair man. Great job!

Many of these fans have pivot bearings. I had the problem of after cleaning and lubing, it was still not running. After close inspection, I noticed how these bearings worked and manipulated them until they were straight, and it worked...

I have one my fans work but the heater doesn’t get hot anymore. I don’t know what part to replace series 146084

watching this 13 years ago to set up a server

Question. What happens if you touch the output or red wire that sticks up? Because I want to have the inside a a voltage supply but will I get shocked?

I have a greenback exhaust fan light combo which seems overcomplicated to change the bulb. The bulb itself I inside a metal housing & I dont know how to get in it. Any insights? Thanks

This was a great video to help give us the confidence we could do this on our own. Hardest part was getting the relay out. I used a flathead screwdriver and some gentle leverage and it popped out. Thank you!

I've had this for 4 years. It has saved me many times, from a low battery (lights left on) to a cheap battery at the end of its life but this device will give it a second life.

that APC was discontinued in June 2024 so you guys lucked into inventory clearance. I've been taking apart SPD for 30+ years and you should do it to every one you buy. they are fire hazards if designed or assembled incorrectly compared to simple power strips, as you know. the big boys, APC, a brand of Schneider, Tripplite a brand of Eaton, are made well albeit the actual design can be suboptimal as you found out. however, if you get Amazon Basics, or even Belkin, etc., they are resellers for OEM, YMMV. microcenter's inland spd? the basic one has no indicators and only has one mov LN, no thermal protection in batch I have. your only protection would be its listing by UL, ETL etc., but that's not on every product shipped, but a test sample and periodic resampling. the one you actually purchase could have quality issues. there are good sample failures with pics, see amazon reviews of their basic SPDs. now on the indicator light, APC is not alone. the less significant lines, LG, NG, could still cause induced currents by large EMP like lightning or solar storms and damage electronics, so you'd want the SPD replaced versus your home theater. but those tend to be true fast spikes, less likely to wear out the mov vs sustained overvoltages on LN which are more likely to cause fire risks.

Thanks bro my dryer is working again

Ideally you should have turned the fans around so they're sucking the hot air out and blowing out the back blowing cold air on because what you're doing is just circulating the warm air around the TV

2 years old and only used once and mine is now totally dead. Won’t take a charge, power button won’t respond, and if you plug in the clamps a time starts screaming

The placement of the fan on the underside makes it look like there won't be enough airflow. Have you checked how much air it's able to suck in?

I found some older APC UPS models very similar if not the same as yours on eBay for cheap, and I got a few old car batteries for free that still work. My plan was to set up a budget UPS for my home PC and server, but someone warned me that these APC units might overcharge a car battery, causing it to wear out quickly-or worse, it could release gas or leak. In your video, you mentioned the voltage stabilizing at around 13.5V, which you said is safe. I don’t intend to run the battery for long periods to avoid deep cycling it, as I know standard car batteries can’t handle too many cycles. Really, I’d just want it for occasional power outages (every few weeks or months) or to protect against surges to avoid damaging my components. So, would this setup work with a regular lead-acid car battery, or would I need a marine/deep-cycle battery for my needs? My usage would be about 6-10 hours a day for the main rig and 24/7 for the server, though outages are pretty rare here. Is a marine battery necessary, or could a car battery handle this safely for my setup? Thanks!

Brasso is ok for light duty, but next time something like that comes up, give nevrdull a try. Stuff works wonders and lasts forever.

i kinda want to see it explode 😂

Nice video, love the 'f*ck no it's probably going to go boom' 😂

I was nervous to do this on my own but after watching your video it was a breeze. Thank you!!!

Good outlay. Digg'n your tinkering..

Another great tech adventure.

Nice job! I love these heaters. How do you replace the elements when needed? I also find the circular, ceiling mount heaters from Baurn and NuTone

Awesome

The exact fan was in the house I grew up until the bathroom was remodeled back in 2012

Looks like 12AX7 drivers 6BQ5 outputs and a 5U4G rectifier in the amplifier. This is a rather rare record changer you have. It has the "Cobra Matic" tonearm and was soon changed in later models to the Micro Touch 2G tonearm.

I have seen your KZbin channel and discord that you are not getting more and more views. So if you are interested to work with me or interested get a free consultation then you can share your detail here so I can reach you.

My friend got one of these for 20 bucks. He's looking to sell it but I'm a bit too scared of what these are capable of

I got one I've had for like 20 yrs I need to do the same thing to. Nice to see someone walk through it.

Hey man. Thanks for the vid. I love all that old kit. I don't know if it means anything, but... I clicked the "Like" button but the like counter stayed at zero???

Cool upgrade. I recently did a similar one: 2018 AM4 board with a Ryzen 2700X and 16GB of RAM upgraded to 48GB and 4TB NVME. Funnily enough, the Ryzen 5950X is the highest supported CPU for my board and I was considering going for it, bt ultimately decided against it, because it only doubles the speed compared to the old CPU, but for a 300 EUR price point which I deem is way too much, especially considering that the Ryzen 2700X is still plenty for video editing, gaming and productivity software. In your case, I would have probably gone for a cheaper, but more modern ASUS board and a current AMD CPU to extend the longevity of the system, because everything else you have in there should last you quite a while. Cool that you have an M-Drive. Never saw one before. May be you could make a video on the M-Disc format and your experience with it? If you used those discs that is.

12 amps at 110v (1320 watts) seems a little under rated to my Australian ear, we have a max power point rating of 2400 watts (10 amps at 240v)

My understanding is this is one of the standard Surge Protection circuits. With the other one just moving the location of the thermal fuses so they cut power to the outlets permanently once tripped. That's what they're pointing you to in the manual Not replace the MOV's. Buy a different surge protector. Never noticed the J mismatch before. Kind of upsets me. It's probably banking on the over current to kick in if the MOVs are cooking. In that case I think I actually prefer the design that cuts power to the outlets permanently. At least then a surge has to get past that (blown) fuse.

It is made by APC. I'm going to guess you lucked out and got not a great deal but a fantastic deal.

Last week I was at Siemens North of Atlanta Georgia and needed a power strip for the hotel room. I stopped at a Micro Center and picked up this very same surge protector.

I ran into a similar issue with a Kemelo surge protector I recently bought on Amazon. Unlike that APC one, this one not have a separate protection LED and its user guide only mentions about its overload protection breaker and nothing about surge protection, which makes me wonder if it has any MOVs. My previous Belkin surge protector had a separate protection LED that no longer lights up after about 10 years of use, which is the reason I replaced it.

You get cheap chinese junk. You get fake 'protection'. You want a real device? Spend the money required.

You seem like a man I could be a best friend with.

That's an awesome looking table you've got there.

"Hey we won't tell you if things are going wrong... they might be they might not" *insert skeletor laugh*

"Please don't blow up" seconds before disaster

Amigo tem como você me tirar uma dúvida essa placa mãe deixa o seu processador trabalhando com os clock's em qual velocidade máxima em todos os núcleos

Lol helloooooooo Eastlink

"Cheeseburger units" X'D

Catwalk is a 100% MUST HAVE! They could have tied the cable to the fiber cable and pulled it that way. Think fish tape in a way.

Need to silicone the hole (or sprayfoam) to seal the air leakage

You use a terminal box for you to detach the fiber optic when you need to do home renovation.

In preparation for the fiber installation on our farm, I installed 70 feet of 1/2 inch PVC conduit and ran a pull cord through it so the installation was a breeze! By using a conduit, I was able to do a direct run from the junction box on the outer wall of my house to the network rack in my telecom closet, assuring that there could be not be any chance of a pinched, cut, or kinked fiber cable. It is very important not to exceed the minimum bend radius, as a small radius in fiber results in data loss and therefore lower throughput. I installed the conduit myself so my only cost was my time and materials, and I don't know what it would cost someone to hire an electrician to do the job. However, I feel that conduit should always be used to get the best quality and longevity from your fiber line.

if you had bribed him, him he would have done the attic.

Fun Fact: in India(Delhi) I am paying 70 dollars for this fiber to my home and 30 dollars for optional static IP, Annually. The subscription is on monthly basis so no committing headache and guy comes every month to collect cash!