@@amuridesu No. It should not filicker at all. But some LED bulbs don't work with this method.

@@cristi497 it's hard to work out what you have done, but you could try different types of led bulbs. Some LED bulbs don't work well with this method. Also you could have a diode in the wrong polarity? Or perhaps a blown diode? To understand the circuit better look at my older videos. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXO1ZoJpbpaglcU kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpmVamBmp9WEgNE kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6vRqWOupKtrec0

Sadly 😥 No👎. But sonoff should really think about extending magic switch to the rest of their range. A smart bulb with "magic switch" would be very. useful.

@@TomBridgewater-d9n 100nF capacitor (the value is not that critical) should work fine, and 1N4007 diodes are fine aswell 👍😉

@@grant_HH it is possible to just have just one bypass circuit at the beginning point where all the lights (on the same circuit) get fed from. But you probably need bigger diodes to handle the extra current safely. There is less chance of making a mistake, and works better, if you use a bypass for every light fixture. You only need one diode in the wrong polarity or connected in the wrong place, and you have a dead short! This circuit also works with multi gang smart switches. Only one of the output channels need the bypass and neutral circuit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpmVamBmp9WEgNE I have a updated version of my circuit with bigger diodes, and it's a bit more robust kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6vRqWOupKtrec0

@@Richard-eg4ms the quality of these devices can vary alot! Some are solid brass, and some are made from a brass coloured aluminium, and can suffer from a poor connection and corrosion.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel I made sure my post was super clean. NO COROSION. I dialectic grease on the post. Maybe like you said bad brand.

@@andredutoit5340 the main advantage of this circuit is its simplicity, and because of that it is very reliable. But it's not perfect! Because it's a capacitive load, it has poor "power factor". You don't get charged for power factor, in domestic use, so not much of a problem. The capacitor dropper is basically a "high pass filter", so if there is "high frequency interference" on the mains supply, it will be dumped straight onto the LEDs and possibly damaged them, or shorten their lifespan. A example of high frequency noise, would be a arcing light switch, not switching off properly.

@@19crofty86 it's possible yes/ maybe. But it depends on the type of LED driver 🤔. Are the led letters mains voltage? Or 5v 12v?

@@rcwilli1991 the difference is zbmini is not Matter-enabled. With "matter", it can be controlled locally and "cloud free", by many devices like amazon alexa and Google home. You don't need to rely on the Chinese app and worry about cloud services going down.

I was actually thinking that the fuse in the plug should be of a lower rating something like 5 to 10A. It's strange that philips opted for a 13 Amp plug fuse🤔. I had some old 5A "rewireable fuse wire", and I could of soldered that across the pcb fuse. But I don't want to encourage that practice. I did actually test the motor first, but I forgot to film it😂.

Yes, a lower current fuse in the plug would make sense. Filming and editing everything must be a lot of work so thank you for doing it.

Yes the test tweezers are great for SMD component testing it does capacitors aswell😉. It was very reasonably priced, and pretty accurate too. I think I got mine on Ebay a couple of years back. It's called "ms8910 handheld smart smd tester" . Aliexpress and amazon did them too. I guess MOVs have their advantages, but I don't think it's necessary for a simple brush DC motor circuit, with just a bridge rectifier. It's great for very sensitive/ critical equipment and SMPSs. I watched a video of a newer Philips juicer repair, and now there's no MOVs on the pcb. So I guess the design is economizing/ cheaping out, and just a single speed aswell. So only the bridge rectifier and EMI LC-filter , that's it.

@@hunakaka I'm not sure🤔. I would have to measure it with a oscilloscope. But I think there will be some discrepancy between different light switches. I guess the time delay would have to be with in a small range.

Yes, absolutely. It will not trigger the RCD😉👍. I have RCDs/RCBOs in my house. There is no current "leaking to Earth", and the the load is balanced between L and N.

@@performancefiore6004 some motors will work, like the the "universal-motor" (the type with brushes). BUT induction motors don't work!(Some of them have a capacitor and need proper AC to work) Most fan motors are induction, so won't work. Also your diodes need to be big enough to handle the motor current.

@@Ni5ei good idea 💡

You're welcome

@@michaelstolman536 I got the idea from the "remote control geyser relays" Eskom made us all install in the 90s, in South Africa. The purpose of the relay/contactor was the drop the load from the grid if there was a power failure, and gradually stagger the geysers from turning on. It's very difficult to turn the power back on if all the geysers have cooled down, and all the thermostats are clicked on. This is almost a dead short for the electrical grid. That was back in the day when Eskom was run by smart sensible people.😉👍.

@@michaelstolman536 it's some type of Chinese WAGO clone. But wago don't actually make a 3 inline version like that. I find them quite useful. I got them from ebay.

Mine too! 😢

@@2002TiiDriver they are sometimes made with crappy metal alloys, and just plated to look like brass. So corrosion is a problem. You can occasionally scratch the contact area back to clean metal.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel It definitely wasn't corosion. As far as I could tell it was because the only thing that appeared to be transferring the current was the 5/16 inch bolt securing the device, ie, crappy design.

@@mattpanex I live in the UK and Portugal some times. I haven't had much spare time to build these things. It's not really worth the time and effort, for the little money I can change from it. I have some updates I want to make to my design. So maybe I will make a few prototypes available for people to try.

​@@tomriesz2869 you can add a inline fuse if you want, it's not a bad idea. In my previous circuit the "fusible resistor" was in the main current path for that very reason. But I have chosen bigger "oversized diodes", so the if there is a short-circuit like you described, the circuit breaker in the house should safely trip. Adding a additional fuse will take up precious space, so in order to keep things compact I decided to leave it out, and rely on the building circuit protection(in the UK it's normally 5Amp or 10Amp circuit breaker). In my older circuit, people were having trouble with the fusible resistor blowing, with bigger connected loads. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXO1ZoJpbpaglcU

​@@MyProjectBoxChannel It's a smart circuit design and a well put together video. My main concern is that, as you are probably well aware, it wouldn't meet the wiring code & device standards in many countries. One must ask the question, what was the intent of the standards and what are the consequences of not meeting them? If someone else was to work on this circuit without realising the changes, they could quite easily cause a short circuit.

​@@tomriesz2869 I have been thinking of adding a 3A small solderable fuse, on the lamp side of the circuit. On the next circuit update😉. If you think about it space saving is less of a concern at the light fixture, than at the light switch box, were things can get pretty cramped. I don't think any home made "prototype circuit" is ever going to pass any sort of electrical certification, but that is what electronics enthusiasts do, we build our own electronic gadgets!🤔

Do you use isopropyl alcohol, or ethanol alcohol. It needs to be isopropyl.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel yes isopropyl alcohol..with indonesia rosin grinding in to powder, with 50/50 ratio

Yes, You can definitely use a 3A fuse, inline with the L, if you like. But the resistor has two jobs, it acts as a inrush current limiter, for when the capacitor initially charges up, and secondly as a fuse(If the capacitor failed). It should still work fine without the resistor, but the lifespan is increased, by adding a resistor. It puts less stress on the capacitor.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel Great thank you for such a prompt response! Because I couldn’t easily find a fusible resistor where I am. I guess an 5-10ohm thermistor would also work instead of the fusible resistor?

@@hoanglonguk yes a NTC thermistor is even better, but not good for turning on and off repeatedly in a short time, because they need time to cool down( like when used for inrush limiting in a SMPS). You can also use a "normal resistor" inline with a fuse. 1 or 2 W , 5-10 ohm. The circuit should work fine without the resistor or fuse, if you want to test it out first.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel ah good point wrt to cool down! I’ll give the inline resistor and fuse a go. Thanks for all your help and pointers much appreciated!

@@MyProjectBoxChannel FYI the circuit seems to works many thanks again for all your help! Circuit seems to also work fine them on the aqara relay and switches. Though in some rooms with the Thorn Amy down lights, it seems they don’t play nice with the half wave circuit at all. Since the lights down the chain seem to flicker quite badly. Do you have any suggestion to remedy this in the main bypass circuit? Otherwise I think there will be too many points of failures if I go and put a capacitor on every light 🥲

Yes, you do require a zigbee hub. Zigbee is ultra low power, so it's often used for battery operated devices. WiFi is very power hungry, and not easy to power from batteries.