So far the one wire alternator is working, but the voltage reading is not consistent, I may have a bad alternator and will be swapping it out at some point.

@@rust_hoarder_garage I’m hoping the one wire works. I find your builds inspiring. I had a SBC in the 46 Aerosedan, when I brought it home. My son traded me a 78K mile 5.3 bare. I had to get everything and finally got it done. I don’t think I could have done it without your videos. I’ve watched 7 or 8 so far. Keep doing your thing.

Wow that is really great, really appreciate the feedback. This is why I am doing the videos, that is great that they are helping with your build.

I like the way you do the cost breakdown also. I'm going to do my next project similar

Thank you I appreciate the feedback, I try not to ramble too much but it does happen lol.

Thanks, I have been doing it this way for decades, it’s a real eye opener when you keep track of spending.

Thanks and thank you for watching, much appreciated

Correct, small red wire from the relay center needs 12v when key is in the on position and also when key is in cranking position. Starter solenoid gets 12v from ignition switch when in cranking position.

@@rust_hoarder_garage thanx dude you are the Best!

Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!

lol bought the rotisserie off Craigslist cheap years ago from a guy who used it once, well worth it even if rarely used. Makes frame painting not so bad.

No harness has an oil pressure connector because it is not needed to run the engine. I run mechanical gauges.

Glad it helped!

sure, just tie up the trans connector out of the way. I am using a 60e harness with a TH400, just didnt plug in the trans connector. You will still need the VSS connection.

That’s awesome! Glad it helped, there is also detailed jaguar IFS rebuild information in the 55 turbo Buick playlist and info in the 51 Hudson playlist as well. I had the front springs out of the 55 Buick so I think I go over spring removal and install. Thanks for watching!

They do but like everyone else they are wired based on the LS1 prints and need to use EV1 to multec adapters. I have one on my 55 Buick, I re-pinned it to match the vortec prints and used the adapters, runs great. The JY harness comes with the LS1 3 pin MAF and 2 pin IAT connectors, so you will need to get a Vortec 5 pin MAF/IAT connector to splice in and replace those if using the Vortec truck MAF.

@@Charlie-Oberley I watched his videos and ordered EV1 injectors. Mines different because I didn’t get a running motor and had to put things together. But I repinned and added where he said and mine popped off first time.

Thank you, this video is for a different brand harness but the steps are similar kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYqQYZyPbrude80

@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. Very informative. I couldn’t tell from the video, Did you run the wire straight from starter to positive post on Battery? Also, do I need to hook up a ground for the starter to the ground post on the battery also? If so do you have any videos of that? Thanks.

starter is not part of the wiring harness, I am using a remote starter switch. Battery positive to the starter lug, battery negative to the engine block, starter switch connects between the starter main lug where the battery connects and the starter small solenoid terminal.

@@rust_hoarder_garage Thank you. In another video you said you used 2000 z28 Camaro o2 sensors. I have the square connectors on my harness also. Should I buy the Camaro o2 sensors as well?

If you are using this harness or one that is wired for case grounded O2 sensors, then yes, you want 2000 Z28 O2 sensors. They will have the black 4 pin square connector that matches the harness.

Nigel and I always turn it up to 11 lol. Thanks for watching!

If you mean the transmission crossmember I just cut it out, no plating needed. Car drives and handles great.

Just boxing where the highest stress points are, a full box would be stronger but I think it would be overkill for a street truck. Thanks for watching, as soon as I can get the chassis finished I am hoping it will come together pretty quickly.

Mine have been working fine, I would recommend them. It is still a low dollar harness so I would check every wire for correct location and check for the ALDL 12v hot being tied to the tach wire. PCM and fuse box should be mounted inside the car, the connectors are not weather tight. Drive by cable harness is built to the LS1 print which I re-pin when using a truck engine and tune, still worth it and I would never spend $500 for anyone’s harness.

@rust_hoarder_garage Thanks alot, i appreciate it... Im going to get one then! I have a truck engine also, 5.3 LM7... Where did you get the information for the Pin color locations...

wire colors may not be the same as GM on the cheap harnesses, but the pinouts need to be, they are listed on LT1swap.com

I think it would be fine, but the wheel mounting points are wider than the Jag, so if you want a traditional type wheel I think the Jag would fit better. I don't think 15" wheels would clear the Corvette brakes either but I haven't tried it yet.

@@rust_hoarder_garage Great point, I’m excited to see what you do with it!

lol I have a lot of ideas, should be fun.

I don't know the exact year since I bought it used, but the 2wd version is the same width all the way into the 2000s.

LOL this is in similar shape to 99 percent of what I start with, budget builds start with what I can afford. I hate mice but the racoons are even worse, and I have to clean it all out before I can try and get the trunk open from inside. Not looking forward to it.

⁠Haha i’m on the same boat man, no trunk keys lol Anyways, i got to catch up on your videos. Always entertaining and learning something new from them!

Impossible to troubleshoot across the net, watch the L33 video that goes over inspection of the engine and injector testing, maybe it will help. I have multiple videos with these harnesses.

The L33 video tied to this harness video goes over more that may help, impossible to troubleshoot over the net.

The Bosch 13444 should work, it is used on the 98-02 LS1 engines which is what the harness is wired for. I am using the same type sensors and they are working fine, I would have to see if I bought Bosch brand sensors. Have you scanned the car while running to see if the sensors are switching? Not going into closed loop can be from how the tune was done, engine not being hot enough, etc.

Nice! You will not be disappointed using that IFS, once you drive it you will understand why I have been putting them in so many cars and trucks over the years. Good luck with the build, and watch the upcoming videos, I will be going over more details on the Jaguar IFS.

She doesn’t even pay attention anymore, bringing junk home is every day life 😆

What used to be parts cars are now projects, I will make this a 2 door.

Exactly, if the price is right.

Absolutely! Now to decide how to build it.

The starter wire is part of the vehicle harness and not part of the stand alone engine/trans harness.

Thanks, work continues next week! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! It will be fine, the size of the tubing is such that the bolt just fits, same as if it were round tubing. Thanks for watching!

Cool, I love 48 Aeros. I had one I bought that was buried in snow, by the time I got a good look at it I found I could pick up the whole rear of the body off the floor and trunk pan. Too rusted even for me to bring back, the at thing was gone.

@@rust_hoarder_garage yeah , they don’t do sheet metal for 40s car like they do trucks. If you want one you to play with , you need to find a good one .

DO NOT mount the PCM or the fuse box on the harness under the hood, the connectors and fuse box are not weatherproof like the factory parts. Mount it up under the dash somewhere, even under the seat would be better than in the engine compartment.

@@rust_hoarder_garage I don’t have that option, my ac takes up the real estate that a pcm would go. I don’t like putting the pcm under the seat because I actually drive this truck and sometimes I put things behind the seat I can see how they can get to the pcm harness and damage a wire.

What about inside the globe box? It would be worth it. If not then I would silicone all of the PCM connector ports where the wires go into the connectors, especially the open ones. Same deal with the fuse box, I would silicone where the wires go into the box and make a gasket to seal the top to the fuse box base. Mount it where water cannot run off a gutter and drip onto the PCM or fuse box. Could make a box to put the PCM in as well.

@@rust_hoarder_garage I’m not opposed to re-pinning the ecu with a factory set of connectors. I have a running driving ls swap but when i tried to downsize the fuse box I ended up with a transmission code. My factory harness is old and has been repaired many times, the entire leg to the transmission was spliced in because it came from a rolled truck. I am looking for a replacement harness to my 21 year old harness, when I got it in 2010 it wasn’t that old but now it is, I also have broken connectors here and there. The re wiring a factory harness doesn’t scare me but since the gen 3 harnesses are now 20 years old I would like a new one if I am going to go through all that work to fix mine. Re pinning the ecu connector may not be a bad thing. If I mount the ecu inside I would have to get rid of the glove box, it will not fit with the glove box, the ac unit is directly behind it and a vent hose to the center vent is there.

I like C10s but I don’t own one, the current 56 Chevy build fell into my lap and I have always liked them. I have a good dozen project cars in line that are not common, I like the oddballs.

This one is a keeper, it is just waiting its turn.

Thanks for coming over and watching!

@@rust_hoarder_garage I like to mashed a hole Thru my phone trying to eagerly subscribe 😳😂 just exactly the type of channel a guy like me needed to see , just what the doctor ordered!!!!!!!! Love it

yes but the truck MAF has the IAT temperature sensor in it, so with the temperature reading off it could retard the timing if the PCM thinks the incoming air is too hot.

You will hear the ignition relay turn on when it has power.

Thanks, the cable should be common, something as new as a 81 Camaro might work, but repro companies may list it under a 68 GTO. I have a couple 69-70 Grand Prix shifters and they are cable actuated as well.

Because the pictures are not accurate, all information is in the video including an injector layout defect.

@@rust_hoarder_garage the video is awesome thank you. I kept having a cylinder fill with fuel so I’m assuming it was wired wrong which caused a misfire and hydro lock. After a small fire I ordered another one and this time I’ll take your advice and bug the whole thing. Thanks again.

bug the whole thing out and verify no injector signal wires are tied to ground. Myself I would not buy another one of this particular harness, I prefer the ones made by JY Performance on Ebay. Still have to go through them but the quality seems much better. Bench test your injectors as well, I now do it with every engine that has sat idle for over 6 months, I lost an engine from a stuck open injector as well. I have videos showing how I bench test them.

@@rust_hoarder_garage thanks, I appreciate it.

Thank you and thanks for watching!

any key on IGN fuse will be fine for the 12v, only need it when the car is running, not when cranking and not full time.

@@rust_hoarder_garageokay thanks sir.

I have not tried one yet, but I have one on the shelf I bought years ago, it is just an evaporator/heater core assembly with controls. Not sure I am using it yet, but no matter what I use it will be a low buck pieced together setup LOL.

Yeah , seen that for like 85 bucks , their whole kit , compressor and all is only like 550 .

Thanks, donor vehicles have always worked for me to keep the cash outlay as low as possible. Thanks for watching!

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!

I used the same one in the video in the 1951 Hudson build series, it has been working just fine. There are cheaper ones but I prefer the JY Performance made ones. Thanks for watching!

HVAC will have the LS compressor, I will make my own lines, only variable will be what condenser and evaporator I will use. I may try one of the ebay combination heater core / AC evaporator units but I have not spent much time yet on the parts yet. Thanks for watching!

Funny you mention that, I bring that up in the next video that I am working on now.

No but I got it from eBay, part number is in the video made by JY Performance

@@andresacevedo6535 I luckily bought the same harness and followed his video and mine started first push. Took me a little bit because I’m not great with electricity. But watched his video and it worked.