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Good luck and hope the plastic tabs will be kinder to you 😅

Thank you for the info. 👍 This video will be useful for more people than just wagons owners 👌

😅 They did over-engineer the estates

Hi. I don't know about the GJ models, but you should plug in a scan tool to see the actual problem. ( trouble code) Keyless system have multiple sub-systems ( receivers, antennas, sensors, and more). Can be as simple as: the key battery is low to 1 antenna has gone bad. Without a scan tool, it's a guessing game

👍 That shouldn't be to hard

Most modern cars have a EGR, that are petrol or diesel. EV and maybe older cars without emissions control don't have EGR's.

You can use the same, but make sure that No tabs are coming in contact with the piston. The tabs can damage the piston and you will need to replace the piston

100%, if I'm not wrong only Estates / wagons have the rear seatbelts in the seat

😅 Can't lie, that did happen a couple of times for me, before I got to this situation.

Ah, so yours is damaged or just full with debris. I got you 👍

Got you, stuck or the tensioner is full with debris and clogged up the system.

I will make the video on how to remove the seat belt from the seat. The rest is up to you. As I don't have a spare seat belt I can tear apart and analyze it

I don't have the service manual. That would be great, so less things get damaged 😅

@@KlavsX_ Has been sent

Thank you 👍

In simpler terms, the cars system lost the key code / password. So I had to use the scan tool, to erase the codes and force the car to scan for the key again

1 vote UP 👍

Yes. Car lost the key signal / key password

The original one was L3K9-13-890, but if you want original one, only places to get them From Mazda, or buy from Japan. You don't find the original PCV valve on the usual websites.

🎊👍🎊

Hi Michael. Thank you, I'm good. How are you? I haven't checked in the city, but the speed limit (120 km/h) on the highway it's doing 7.5 l/100km. So in the city, I would say, sounds about right 9 to 9.4. There is one catch with the Injector cleaner. If your injectors are clean that cleaner won't do anything. There is a better way of testing that. to remove them from the engine and do a '' flow test'' with them. Then after the injector cleaner round do it again, and see if there is a difference in the flow of the fuel and athe mount of fuel.

Oh, if you can smell burning from brakes it's pretty bad news. ( if the piston rubber/seal doesn't have a hole where dirt/ water get inside the seal, then it all should be fine) You need to inspect the seal for cracks, holes or defects. I hope you changed your brake discs and pads!

@@KlavsX_ No, that's a job I plan for better weather. I needed to inspect and re-grease everything, the car is 2012 and very low mileage, so a lot of things like this haven't been looked at for many years. Both wheels had to be hammered off with a mallet, the pads wouldn't come out without some force, the pistons had some rust on them, but the outer seals looked ok, there is a shim missing from the inner pad on the passenger side rear, but that's just to reduce noise. I will know on Monday if anything has improved!

I see. Yeah, there are two ways to go. More wallet friendly is to pull everything apart, clean and grease it up and see how it does. The other one would be buy new discs/ pads / pins and caliper rebuild kit. Obviously that will hit the wallet quiet hard.

Ah blow-by. PCV is usually the suspect, but it could the breather hoses, or the engine is leaking combustion. That I have to check, if my cars engine got blow-by

You are welcome

Yes, it did go away

@@KlavsX_ Thanks, I asked because at 4:55 I noticed the piston is not at the right position. As you can see, there are 2 indents on the piston, in the video, they are shown at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock position. This should be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. The reason for this is, the pad has a little hump sticking out and by setting it to 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock ensures the piston meets the pad and applies pressure evenly at the same time avoid future squealing or parking brake auto adjustment issues. Some pads do not have this dimple then won't matter too much but most do, so care is needed when winding the piston in.

Thank you for the information.👍 I don't know why or how, but for me, the hump is facing outside, not the caliper. Looks like the previous mechanic or whoever did the brakes mixed things up if the hump was meant to be at the back. ( as the brake pads are worn in this setup). I was taught, that if you do a brake job and do not change to new pads and discs, you need to put in the pads from where you took them, so you don't get rubbing or weird break issues.

@@KlavsX_ Some mechanics have little understanding of how things work, especially in the UK. My car, same one as yours, when I first got it had the record of the previous owner taking it to a national chain that commonly deals with tyres and exhaust to have the brake jobs done at the cost of whopping £1100. Despite this, the rear brakes squealed, pins were not lubricated and the piston was in the wrong position resulting in uneven wear of the pads. This place that did brakes, it even had two technician's signature as if to say it was double checked!!

Holy Sh*t, 1.1 k for a break job 😅 Did they read the logo wrong and thought it was an Audi RS?😂 That is one of the reasons why I started DIY fixing my own car. It's almost ''impossible'' to find a good mechanic who doesn't wanna charge extra or literally rip you off. Good mechanics do exist, but they are rare. I have no record of previous repairs or services for my car.

Yes, it got the full Bose system, with the sub in the rear. No, I wish I bought a different unit. To many cons for the money. This model has 2 or 4 GB of ram ( Really slow on booting Up and feels like an old android tablet) No software/Android updates from company. Once I connected the unit to internet connection, it installed so many updates it became unusable. You can't clear the notifications from the list. Otherwise pretty good, plenty of add-on ports for the unit, works with the steering wheel controls.

Hi. From the information you told me I would say that it's fine ...., BUT these aren't the only symptoms of a failing PCV valve. Check for oil leaks. Check if the oil looks good ( no discoloration or bad smell). Check, when you accelerate, the engine isn't hissing or whistling. Check the exhaust smoke, if it isn't coming out in a weird color. Trouble starting the engine. Then you will be aware, in what state the PCV valve is in.

Don't waste your time with the big ring. If the new sensor doesn't have it, leave it that way. ( I destroyed my sensor that way). Sounds like, it's the wrong sensor, it should slide in and thread on the same way I did in the video. Check your old and new sensor threads and size, if they are the same. I wasn't aware Mazda makes bigger-size sensors for the car...

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Latvia

Nope.

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👍 Glad the videos can help you. 👌 That is sad, that I'm the only one doing detailed Mazda videos. There are plenty of engine and body types of Mazdas in the world.

As long as the coolant level is between full and empty line it's all good. You are correct it is a overflow bottle (coolant reservoir) So the car can take or dump the coolant it need to operate. You need to look if the overflow bottle is totally full or fully empty, that spells trouble.

@ I noticed the thin hose from radiator top to coolant overflow bottle was loose where it connect to radiator. So I fixed the clamp. Hopefully this solves the issue of lower radiator coolant level. I think that as it pressure and let some coolant out, that when it cools it probably draw in some air.

if the oil in engine is looking good and no coolant coming out of the exhaust then probably. But that's a guess

Only for the windows ( all 4 switched) the rest isn't illuminated

You are welcome

Hi Barry. Voltage regulator is on the alternator / built in.

😅 Your Mazda 6 had a terrible time with rust. You had a big and epic battle there. Only sucks, that the battle was a bit too late and the silent killed did its job 😞 Mine looks alright, I wanted to add some sound deadening but couldn't buy it in time

It is a job and a half for sure. With electrical tools it would be faster but yeah. I did try my best to explain it

Hello. RVM stands for Rear Vehicle Monitoring ( when a car passes you on the left or right, it lit's up a light near the side mirrors). That has nothing to do with parking. In the rear bumper, you have 2 white boxes and the lights with the panel at the side mirror in the interior. One of them is the troublemaker

🤔 good question. If the tow bar, or the crash bar isnt in the way, probably 😅

@KlavsX_ I don't have a tow bar. I'll try tomorrow and let you know. I'll save some time 😁

Then you have a crash bar at the back. If it's not to close to the body of the car, you should be able to do it.

Glad they could help you 👍 You are welcome

Yes wire brush will do fine. You can use break clean too. As long as the rubber, brake pads, rotor and the hardware isn't damaged, its all should do good.

It is, and now the belt slide out and in so easy. I didn't notice previously how much strength I needed to pull out the belt 😅

👍 Have fun and hope you don't have such dirty seatbelts 👌

😂 Houly macrek, your country has the dumbest rules. For us, a fail is, if the battery isn't bolted down properly. For us, it's fine as long as nothing in the engine bay moves and all lids are on tight.

You are welcome

Hi. Yeah, this is a 4 cylinder 2.5 L petrol. Oh, you will be out of luck on the diesels too. The pcv valve on some of diesels is at the back of the engine. There's 1 engine that has the valve in a good-ish location, though, don't know what engine it is exactly

Thanks, awesome channel by the way! 🍻

👍 Awesome. That is a good problem to have. In the end I had key miss communication.

😅 Already been done. This video is quiet behind on the date.

@@KlavsX_ Thats great news. keep up good job :) thx for video

👌👍 glad you enjoyed it. 👍