Forward progress! I can't comment from an engine standpoint since I haven't dug into mine, but it looks like it's going back together well for you!

Instead of the springs, I use solid tuftrided spacers between the rocker arms, note that it is not critical that the rocker arms have to be perfectly centralized above the valves.

Make sure that the holes in the top of the new rockier arms go all the way through, just because parts are new, doesn't mean they are perfect!

You might consider red loctiting that grub screw in place, so that it stays put.

Those nice supportive end pedestals were developed for the Le Mans racing Spitfires, before those, on the 1147cc Spitfire, they used much weaker end pedestals, as shown in the diagram in your Haynes manual, I did a conversion on my 1147cc engine using the later pedestals that you have, also I used 1956 Standard 8 rocker arms, (also used on the Le Mans Spitfire), they were Forged Steel instead of the later, much cheaper Cast Iron Rocker Arms.

In my experience, the adjuster nuts on the back of the rocker arms are precious, because the originals are much better-quality material than any reproductions that I have found. The repro's easily round off, whereas the originals do not.

Dear Steve, I am sorry to have to say this after you have had several positive comments, but surely there is something wrong when the top of most valves do not touch the rocker in its centre. Not only is the rocker designed so that it is strongest at the middle, but the way your rockers touch the valve at the of edge of the rocker, the rocker will quickly wear excessively on the new shaft you just installed, due to the force pushing down the valve not distributed evenly on the rocker shaft. I have never seen rockers on a Triumph Spitfire engine pushing the valves from anywhere but the centre of the end of the rocker. Indeed I have never seen the rockers in any overhead valve engine so misaligned as yours currently appear to be. I am sorry I cannot identify what went wrong, but if I was you, I would compare the alignment of the new rockers against the old ones as a starting point, as perhaps the replacements are not identical to the originals.

No comments from me just a thumbs up 😂

Thanks. Were the original shaft's oil ports machined like this one? Springs are pretty hard and their ends can act like cutters, most other stuff has them riding on hardened washers.

Looks good to me but what do I know!! The rockers are going to float a but on the shaft hence the springs between them as long as the springs are not worn out but I say your good to go!!

Great video Steve! Two questions…how is your house so quiet, and how do you keep your manual so clean? Just kidding. I’ll pull my rocker cover and see how my arm to valve alignment is though mine is a 1500. Cheers!

what is the name of your shop manual you are using? where did you buy it?

Excellent video! I am going to watch it over and over before I take care of my spitfire front suspension. Thank you!

My 69 used 3/8”-24 fittings with bubble flare. I bought an adapter that allowed me to use a double flare brake line.

I'm curious how you treated the main body between evaporust and paint - did you remove all the surface rust/flash rust? Primer?

You got the water-pump fixings figured out, which is good. However, based on my experiences from about a decade ago, I would try to source good used water-pump studs. The originals are shorter on the housing end and longer on the pump side. The replacements I got from several vendors (again, about a decade ago) are of equal length on each side. This is a bit of a problem in all circumstances; however, the thickness of the bases on replacement water pumps varies quite a bit, and for the thicker ones the shorter studs are a serious problem--you'll never get a nut on them, especially with a lock washer. (I discuss this in a little bit of detail [with photos] in a segment of Episdoe 8 on my channel.) Anyway, I've been doing the exact same cleanup work on my GT6 water-pump housing, so your video is quite timely!

Welding question...What size wire and setting you use? I have a Lincoln welding and currently experimenting with .030 at 15v and 110 wire speed. I currently have mine on a rotisserie but will probably have to put it back on the frame to replace the floor.

Check where the weep hole is, bottom of the pump, for leaking after startup cause it's about 50/50 chance to leak from corrosion working its way into the seal faces while its been sitting. If it's leaking, just let it run, with the cap off so there's no pressure pushing coolant through the seal, for 5-15 minutes to let the seal faces cut through any corrosion and start doing their job of sealing again. If 15 minutes doesn't do it, then it's time for another one. The studs should be available at any good(not a chain) auto parts place, seen those big orange Dorman cabinets with all the drawers of different stuff, or just cut up a bolt, or get a long bolt from a starter, generator or those wooden spools that electrical supply houses throw out and cut your own threads on it!. Just crazy to order stuff like that unless you're in the middle of the desert & all ya got is camel dung..

Flying Dutchman in Oregon, if you want to upgrade. 6 vane prop.

As for fitting the rollers bearings there is a guy mentioned by Elin Yakov- Rusty Beauties who has 3D printed a carrier to aid inserting them that was very slick.

Was there any suggestion to heat up the rear case before pressing it on?

Ouch, those blue-tinged drill holes must have been tough going! I have a basic Drill Doctor shaprener that's paid for itself many times over. A sharp drill bit is a beautiful thing. I'll take a freshly sharpened cheap bit over an expensive dull one any day. When one of my bits isn't cutting like it should, it's quick an easy to touch it up.

Wow and I thought mine was rusted out. Seems like all of the corners are damaged.

hey mate, there's supposed to be an l bracket on the top caliper bolt and the bracket to the hard line goes in front of the strut tower. There's an additional bit of hard brake line required on each side to the L bracket. Cheers

Just started watching. I have a '73 that I am replacing both floor pieces

That came out real nice! I've been tossing the idea around about finding an EFI solution for my spitty.. Time (and budget) will tell.

Most if not all of the carb cleaners are shit, they ain't what they used to be, pros have stuff that can make'm beautiful, don't know if any of them would just do the cleaning & plating for you with out doing the assembly. Does the piston fall with a solid metallic 'thunk'??? Is it the least bit different if you do it with the choke on/jet down? If not, it ain't centered, do it again! Float level? Find out & set the tab, also IIRC the float drop is adjustable too but isn't as important. Throttle shaft seems a little stiff, oil/grease would be nice, then again it attracts smegma and you're a long way from wearing out the shaft & body. Good luck.

Thanks for the shout out buddy! Carbs look great! FYI be careful of what’s in the ultrasonic cleaner before you put your intake in there. Some products with eat/etch the aluminum and turn it black.

I've got a set of HS4s for my 1500. I'll be doing this myself if I get the chance.

I use one and a half gallons of that carb cleaner in a cheap stainless steel cook pot for my Weber 40DCOEs, I keep some big river rock pebbles, to surround the carbs and raise the level of the cleaning fluid, (thanks Archimedes), above the carbs, I strip all the internal parts out of the carbs and clean them in the basket. I leave the carbs soaking for three days, then once cleaned out, I flush them out with distilled water before drying them on the bench with a hot air gun. Webers have fine passageways, which do NOT like ethanol laced fuel sitting in them. My first and last fuel tanks of the season are always ethanol free fuel. The carb cleaner that's left, I keep in the shed to reuse next year! One day I'll get myself an ultrasonic cleaner!

My turn to say...i get the first comment! 😂

🤙

Getting closer!

It never fails. As soon as I need to replace something on my Spit, you always seem to have a video less than a year old that covers it. Thank you for your continued service, Sir. :)

Congrats on your 100th episode, Steve. I'm so far behind I'm embarrassed to say, but I'm always here for moral support down here in Englewood.

Nice video Steve. Great update and really good to see the progress you are making. You must be inspiring many other DIY mechanics to have a go 😎 Also, a well sorted blasting cabinet with glass bead at 25PSI is an easy way to polish your aluminum parts.

Good call on the small end bearings. I didn't have the guts to do mine either. Glad the progress continues and congrats on 100!🎉

Glad you sent the little end bushings to the professionals, they need honing too once fitted which is another thing not worth DIYing. Interestingly it looks like the old jets on your carbs have black plastic sections? That might’ve been part of why you were having difficulty getting it to run well when you got the car as the black bodied jets are for SUs with the float chambers at a different angle to the Spitfire’s (the correct ones are colour coded red).

That's how these rebuilds go, a lot of waiting on parts and machine shops! Carry on, carrying on.

Glad to hear you’re going to shine up those carbs! Careful though, it gets addictive! Congrats on hitting 100 Steve!

Ted told me he is an outlet for rimmers. If I understood him correctly, you can use him for any needed returns. Those would make cool pen holders. I'll take one off your hands when your finished with them 😂

Good to see that your going to do the rebore and new pistons! Can't wait to see her finished!

Hey, we missed you Steve. Episode 100 is quite a milestone! Good update.

ONE THING I'd Like to mention, as a "general rule of thumb, whenever possible, All boats should be installed "IN, BACK OR DOWN"......

Good choice with Timotes. They do excellent work! Greetings from the space coast

i think for the gasket you could leave it,,,,, so long as it feels smooth from metal to gasket. or you can have it glass blasted. all over and make it look like new.

Nice work Steve