I think its best to use a relay at this point. SSR is often used for high loads like heating elements etc. I think you overcimplicated the simple idea.

I think you need to Calabreate your controller I've seen the same one pullb21.3 Amps.

On another video there was a H.F. controller that had 21.3 Amps. There are some 500 watts controllers that don't work.

You would be better off with a 24-volt battery the BMS is made inside the work that way. If you do two more of those batteries you have there now you still just need to other small chargers the way you have it you don't need four more. Because it's a series parallel setup. The things in parallel will use the same charger

Put 4 on 😊

I am wondering if those 12v packs have a Bluetooth access control screen?? Some of them allow for a setting if you have them in series or parallel to tweak the controllers to compensate for the imbalance.. I have also seen people crack them open and install a stand alone active balancer that has 8 leads for the 8 cells which can pull power from the higher cells and put it in the lower ones.. One day a battery manufacturer might offer a way to do this without cracking open the batteries by having a balance connector available so you could just plug and play with 2-3 or 4 12v batteries..

thats cool but how are your pannels attached to the charge controllers? individual panels each controller?

Dont put lithium in séries... Thèse got bms. They are not made for this. Thèse are not lead acide. The bms can fail if put in séries I have already see that

I see a few comments about using 24v batteries for a 24v system. While it is preferred, it isn't required, but limit two, meaning, don't use 4 X 12v to make a 48v system, but 2 X 24. That said, when it comes to the bms's in lithiums, some are not designed for serial connection, for the reason that you discovered. For example, the Victron Super Pack Lithiums, can NOT be series connected(but no limit to the number in parallel), but their Smart Lithium's(max 20 batteries), and the even newer 'NG's'(max 50 batteries), can be series connected. Another example would be Li-Time Lithiums, which clearly state that they can be configured in up to a 4p4s system(max 16 batteries). While you can hack your way around your issue, you really should either use 24v batteries, or, choose a brand that allows for(is designed and engineered for) serial connections.

You have over-complicated a simple issue, just set to 24v system and set controller to float just below shut off voltage, problem solved.

Why the skinny ass wires? You need to charge them independently, then put them back in series. Maybe one of them has a bad BMS? (my self experience). Great looking equipment layout on the wall.

Thanks for sharing.

interesting video, however I can't quite see how the two PWM controllers get their "panel inputs" ; to they have their own panel each? Thanks

I love your solution.

Maybe you could try charging the batteries in 12 volt parallel. Then use a 12 volt to 24 volt booster with rated Amp.

I have been running a 24v system for over two years and never had the problem you are describing. I am using 100 AH Redodo batteries in series and charging with Victron charge controller they stay the same voltage, and I have never had one shutdown for over or under voltage. I feel you may have a bad battery there. I would pull them out of that system, charge them and run capacity test on teach one. I am running 6 batteries in 3 series strings. No issues at all.

Balancer

I'm in UK.....I'm seeing more and more of these batteries and stacks failures..... And basically it's down to cell balance, Alot of them aren't top balancing the cells before manufacturing.. I took me 4weeks to sort a set of cells out... pulled out of a 48v rack......now 6 weeks on getting full capacity.

Hello! I found out that you have a plotter from Redsile. Can you please send me the drivers to install? I will be very grateful

PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) type controllers are not suitable for Lithium Batteries. "The worst ripple voltage is produced by solar PWM charge controllers, followed by old-style transformer/rectifier battery chargers, which should not be associated with lithium batteries. In the case of a solar PWM charge controller, the solar array is connected and disconnected from the battery at a fixed frequency. The open-circuit voltage of a solar array charging a battery in a 12VDC installation typically reaches up to about 22V (36-cell panel). Once the battery can no longer accept enough current to keep the voltage down, every time the controller sends a pulse to the battery, the cell voltages are gradually driven towards 22 / 4 = 5.5V. If the pulse voltage reaches 4.2V, there is sufficient energy for the electrolyte decomposition reaction to take place and the cells get rapidly destroyed, even if the average battery voltage as measured by a multimeter appears acceptable." Replace those units with MPPT type controllers. Ref: nordkyndesign.com/charging-marine-lithium-battery-banks/

Looks like you got some decent answers but in summary... * You need a whole-battery balancer if you connect two LiFePO4 batteries in series. It is far better to get the appropriate native-voltage LiFePO4 battery instead of stringing lesser voltage lithium batteries in series. Far more robust using a native-voltage battery. * Do not circuit the separate 12V batteries in the 24V series bank to individual devices (except the balancer itself), for any reason. That will take them out of balance and change the ground reference on some of the related devices which can be extremely dangerous if you forget later on while messing with things. e.g. Those charge controllers really should only be wired to the "24V" bank, not to individual 12.8V batteries. In particular, the ground-reference for one of the charge controllers will be sitting at +12.8V instead of GND relative to the system and if you ever try to connect other comm cables or such to that charger controller, or mess with the solar array outside thinking that the black wire is GND, you might be in for a very nasty shock, smoke, or fire. * 24V native voltage batteries should not be more expensive or too much more expensive than individual 12V batteries. In terms of capacity, 2 x 50Ah 12.8V batteries = 1 x 50Ah 25.6V battery. -Matt

You get what you pay for.

Are the HF controllers for lipo4 batteries?

batteries work much better in parallel, no advantage to 24v system

i love those harbor freight charge controllers, so hard to find

For what it's worth, I had problems with 100AH batteries in parallel that would only discharge 50AH before the inverter would shut down. I was on the verge of returning them when it was suggested that my cables to the 12 volt inverter was too light, despite using the cables that came with the inverter, and all indications were that they were adequate. I replaced them with 2/0 welding cables, then tested each battery individually. They both supplied over 100AH per battery before shutting down. I had previously used lead-acid with the supplied cables & never thought heavier cables would be needed in this case. Apparently the BMS systems like the lower resistance.

Did you parell the batteries for a day or 2 before connecting in series? I belive that is the key ( i my opinion). I never had any of my different systems wandering off in different charge level.. 🤔

Thank you

Why not just quit the playing around and get a 100ah 24v lifepo4 I have 2 of them in my antique electric car. It runs 24v and 48v at higher speeds. They are not that expensive and you will be much happier. If not then the wattcycle 12v 100ah are available thru Amazon for 150 and the ones with Bluetooth are 199.

Are you using separate panels for the additional chargers? are all chargers connected to same panels.

Victron makes a battery balancer specifically designed to prevent this problem, but your solution will work too. Also, make sure that none of your charge controllers are set to "equalize the batteries" so high voltage won't be sent to the batteries for desulphating them. Only needed for lead acid.

Man you have a lot of antiques in your system but hey it works they do make balancers for 12 volt batteries in series.

get a balancer simple

That's why you don't use 2x 12v 😅 Dedicated 24 volt lithium and stop wasting your time Also use a docent brand 😅

Sounds like they are cheap for a reason, I'm guessing you have one crapped out cell that is killing the whole thing. 40% difference is way too much, see if you can get it replaced under warranty.

The 24 V lithium was quite expensive and I figured I could go 24 V this way or I could resort back to a 12 V system if my power inverter went out. It’s just little thoughts like that I was thinking of. I know it’s not a perfectly correct way to do everything, but I was hoping I could make it work.

This is the prime reason you buy 24v batteries for a 24v system. In lithium using the wrong voltage batteries has the problem you’re having. I would stick to 24v batteries and skip the old lead acid mentality

So I can run 200 watt solar panels with this 100watt solar panel controller ? With All harbor freight solar equipment

How many watt solar panels are you pushing with that controller ?

Hey Kevin ! Thanks for the response! We recently bought a 60 amp 150 Voc Mppt Victron Tr smart to charge our Custom Lithium EV battery ( yeah some nut job crashed an Electric Smart for Two Mini Car ) so we chopped up the 300V + Lithium packs into an Off grid mega battery for mere pennies compared to the price of normal Batteries. Night and day usage compared to the FM80 OutBack series. The ability to monitor ALL on the tablet was a blessing as an Off Gridder. My Buddy is currently Building a system and is at my door asking Numbers, gauges, watts, amps breaker ect... So I'm teaching him Ohm's Law first then moving onto chemistry, Temperature and then products. He's thought he was going to go 12v for a system. My eyes widened. Oh Hell no! 24v minimum for off grid when dealing with amps and power efficiencies. We run 48 Volt here as a standard so I can use things like Microwaves, AC's, water heaters and air compressors. I showed him the math of Amp draw on a 12 volt and the required Inverter size and wire thickness. His eyes are slowly opening and understanding why we go higher. I'm bumping him to use Lithium too because of the available amps in Parallel or series configuration. Let him know 12v lead is 20 amp max and Lithium is at least a C1 rating at 100 amps to pull from. All in all he's learning how power works. Next we tackle AC Power and 120v/240v 60 Hz vs 50 Hz for general use. He'll get there eventually. I'll be cleaning all my contacts soon and once broken down I'll walk him through the rebuilt of the entire system step by step. I need him confident for repairs using methods to safely judge breakers, temperature and Gauge sizing. This was a book and I know you understand the bulk of this jargon with Electrical builds. Later sir!

We used this inverter as it was dirt cheap to learn on. There are MANY things it CANNOT DO! Do NOT Use a CAR Battery EVER! 100% Solar or golf cart deep cycle ( heavy thick lead plates ) 20 amps per battery MAX Lithium Battery perfect as each supplies 100 amps No AC Unit, No Air Compressors and NO High amp shop draw Tools. What It can do ( sort of ) 900 watt Microwave ( its hums and struggles ) Dirty power Charge electronics ( not recommended ) Dirty power 300 watt Rice cooker ( fine ) Coffee Maker ( some Brands with lower wattage Under 1,200 w) Good luck sourcing these. LEDS Lights ( most lights ) at 75% of the inverters constant draw. Some Vacuums ( Lower amp draw type motor the better! ) Recharging power tools that use a battery to perform ( perfect and ideal ) TVs, Laptops, phones ( at your own risk ) Modified sine wave / high frequency ( Dirty Power ) Pro's ( If you can call it that ) Cheap, Safety shut down ( sometimes before damage ) bounces between units (maybe you get a good one?) Cons ( Too many to list!) Small power Mosfets, small iron core transformers, Low quality internal capacitors , Minimal Quality control at factory mass produced generic with low end components. Is this unit Right for you? Probably not as there are many newer better quality models out there similar pricing! Check Amazon.

Brilliant thanks mate

How many degrees is the angle of rotation for the outside and inside of the corner?

I am considering a vertical axis wind turbine that looks exactly like a tree, I call it : e-tree, the trunk of the e-tree is brown, the spinning blades are green, attached to the trunk of the e-tree are features of : wifi/mobile network, light and power outlet, to charge a car for example

Saw another guy showing how he got 7.8 to 8.4 amps direct from two solar kits that were the black plastic framed ones from harbor freight. He bout an additional charge controller separately from harbor freight and it only put on about five amps as you are. He went direct to battery with the panels and it showed the higher 8 amp zone and when he used in charge controller from one of the two kits it gave him that 8 amp output the same as going direct. But the additional one he bought thinking it may work better with two kits into one controller only put out about 5 amps. So your getting different results than he unless he used the other additional controller he bought extra from HF

I bought one of these exact same turbines a few years ago. It never produced a single Watt hour, even after trying several charge controllers and 40mph winds. I ended up doing a chargeback on my credit card for the 599GBP I wasted on it :(

I am upgrading my router to a similar corded router on my Genmitsu-4040 Pro. I'm a complete dummy at wiring and electricity and I cannot find a good walkthrough. Do I need to mess with the black box on the back of my X-rail? (Black box says - Probe/Airlaser/ spindle /x-y cable)

Were you using the (1) original 100W controller (and hub) with the 3 100W panel sets (total 300W)?

I changed the color in settings, it seems like the remote is suspect/in the spectrum,

How many watts is that inverter? And what kind of inverter?