I think you are a little misinformed. The NA 6.2 M998 never had close to that power. Most were around 130hp/260tq with a focus on fuel economy and reliability. Some of the NA 6.5s in the M1097 got a slight bump in power to around 145ish hp/285tq. And honestly when paired with the four speed auto they were adequate especially with out armor and could climb mountains with a small trailer in tow (the intended purpose before being pressed into a combat role). The finally versions like the M1151 did get a turbo but they were not much above NA trucks. I remember hooking a boost gauge to one once and it was making under 4psi well under what the civilian trucks make from the factory with an arguably better turbocharger. I remember reading they were rated at the time at 165hp and something like 320tq. We would pin the wastegate shut and turn the injection pump two flats and get rid of the mufflers to open them up. Even then they were pretty conservatively tuned and would only make about 11psi on the turbo. Keep in mind this was a field thing and not how they were intended to be run. But with the trucks getting close to 15,000lbs combat loaded they needed everything they could get. Also Keep in mind soldiers can break literally anything. In comparison a lot of the 5 ton trucks were being majorly detuned as well to some times under 180hp in a much larger vehicle. The focus again being reliability and fuel economy with range in combat being very important. This was an issue we faced on a modified M984A1 had with a 8V92 Detroit. With the up armor package it weighed around 103,000lbs and trying to keep up with much faster and lighter vehicles was a challenge. Fuel economy was maybe 150 miles on a 150 gallon tank so we had to constantly carry extra fuel with us or about 12 extra 5 gallon cans so we had extra range. Typically the army wants wheeled vehicles to have at least a 300 mile range with fuel on the battlefield being very scarce and valuable (the Germans learned this the hard way in WWII) that’s a long way of saying no to my knowledge no military 6.2 GM diesel ever came with 430ft-lbs from the factory. The main difference from my knowledge is obviously the 24v operating system and the cylinder and blocks being slightly heavier castings with a think a higher nickel content or something like that. They do tend to be stronger however the pumps are tuned very conservatively for the reasons I listed above. As for GM intentionally sabotaging the 6.2/6.5 I disagree. I have seen plenty of them with 300,000miles still kicking around. In addition I find they suffer from the same issues as any IDI including the 6.9/7.3 fords. The main difference is the 6.2/6.5 are definitely lighter duty and significantly lighter (probably by over 200lbs). As a trade off the 6.2/6.5 get considerably better fuel economy over the 6.9/7.3 but are not as heavy duty. I hope that clears a few things up.

Everything you see is OBD2. You can expand it with extra sensors like EGT and Fuel pressure.

Injectors will definitely cause all kinds of Run ability issues. If it’s a cold starting issue it should resolve itself with in about 45 seconds of being started. At that point enough heat at the piston head to easily keep it going. The exception would obviously be a IDI motor but honestly even after about 2 minutes they should also smooth out as the heat starts to build in the pre chamber.

@ yeah mine was pretty Smokey the other morning but it was also 18 degrees out and not plugged in and no intake heater. My injectors are newish so hopefully I don’t have one going bad cleared after about 15min. But maybe you have an idea for my idle I can’t and no one can seem to figure it out. It jumps up and now not major just I can see the tach moving slightly and hear it. According to scanner everything is checking out. Any ideas?

The lock icon represents torque converter lock up. And no you should do anything different. It’s some times good to know when pulling hills or in a performance application. Congratulations on the 2000 you likely have a forged rod motor.

@ Thanks for feedback! Is that so?? i bought it for a really reasonable price with about 228,000 miles. I plan on keeping this truck to the end of my time. Just trying to do as much research on it that way i’m maintaining it the proper way!

@ you are on the right track. Maintenance and monitoring is key on these trucks. Keep it simple and don’t go crazy with mods and you will do fine.

I have heard a lot of good things about Schaeffers oil. It’s a little pricy but some people swear by it. I personally run T4 15-40 and change my oil often. I have played around with T6 and also used additives at times. But never really noticed a difference. I do admittedly change my oil probably more frequently than most because my trucks get worked pretty hard.

@cbr600rx7 i have a FS2500 oil bypass filter. I don't tow with it so I was planning on going 10,000 miles between oil changes. With the bypass filter the oil stays alot cleaner.

Any time I hope it helps.

Nice. I have been considering adding fuel pressure and true boost to mine. Having an actual coolant temperature reading would be nice as well.

@cbr600rx7 coolant temp would be nice. I have one more open slot on my sensor extender, and that might be my next addition.

You are welcome to post any questions on here. I try to check the comments frequently and many others on here are also knowledgeable and can help.

Is this a OBS or SD?

@@cbr600rx7 1999 SD F350 auto

It is definitely a good option. The only thing I would do differently is a KC-balanced assembly instead of just the billet wheel and 360 bearing. If you don’t want to sump it they also offer a draw straw version. Instructions could probably use some updates but if you take your time and read them it’s pretty easy to figure out.

Appreciate it! I'm very happy with how this one is turning out. Had to order a few maintenance related parts but will hopefully have it finished up next week. I think the customer is pretty happy so far.

I appreciate the kind words. Happy it helped

@@cbr600rx7 Thanks again. I got the job done easily and knew to get the gasket ahead of time, a lifesaver. Unfortunately it looks like my bearings have gone, as its still leaking around the seal and there's noticable play :( Thats what I get for buying a tractor as old as I am. Ah well something else to fix.

Customer had a smile on his face the first time he took it out. Still a few odds and ends to finish up but I am happy with how it’s turning out.

Vans are always cool. Just a little unique

Appreciate all the help and great products over the years. Now if we could just get a ball bearing stage one……

Yes! I want to see a stage 1 BB. I would be first in line and foaming at the mouth.

I have some older videos of a 8N and Jubilee we did some work on. Hopefully I can get those put up at some point.

They are little work horses no question

No, the rebuilt ones come with OE housing like the top hpop. The bottom is the billet housing as you can see it’s not a casting, it’s a single billet

It seems to run a little cleaner than the GTP38R/CHRA/0.84AR combo especially on the bottom. It’s probably a small increase just from the efficiency and being more responsive. With that being said I doubt it’s a huge difference. It’s hard to judge fuel economy right now since the truck is being used so differently week to week right now. Plus the weather is turning cold here and i am taking a little extra on warm ups.

If you are referring to the Gen 3 it will have a 0.90 AR that is unique to this new KC. Significant improvements have been made to the exhaust housing and compressor housing. Plus the advantage of the S300 style turbine wheel. I don’t know if you would pick up huge improvements in fuel economy but I would be willing to bet you would gain a little. It would be really interesting since you already have all the other supporting mods to see what a Gen 3 stage 1 would do on your truck. FYI I do have some banks stuff on my truck and the Gen 3 definitely responded well. It’s not anything dramatic but all the small things are are improved with out sacrificing any other areas. For example I really liked my Frank/hybrid set up but it was a little laggy with banks tunes but pulled really well above 1800rpms and also sounded really good. The GTP38R was fun but crazy loud with the cast wheel and was only a little better than stock. It was also kind of sluggish down low but did really well in the mid and high range with banks tunes. With the KC gen 3 stage 1 it just comes on fast, is very responsive, isn’t crazy loud, and pulls the whole RPM range. I have been very happy with mine. I hope that in the future KC will come out with a Gen 3 ball bearing stage 1 in something like a 62mm. That would be really cool.

Thank you

Send them a email. That is what I would highly recommend

@ I have haha email them for me 😂

I would recommend emailing them.

I have original 63/73, injectors n adrenaline. Even w .83 housing, it's pretty leggy too. Either doing t4 swap w take off 362sxe off my 12 duramax or else trying this 3rd gen??

@@BruceMyersLBZ I’m hoping this gen 3 will take care of my needs I have 180/30 injectors tons of other stuff if I remember I’ll let you know how it turns out. I’m also stubborn kc turbos told me to get a stage 1 cause of my elevation and I still went for the stage 2 😂 this time I went strictly for the gen 3 stage 1

@brandon22333 good deal, yeah, I'm running Fsuperduty dump, same injectors, hpo xover, adrenaline, regulated efuel, 6.0 Intercooler setup, 4:10's/ZF5 n pile of other stuff. I'd prolly been better w smaller turbine side as well. FFD recommend I run 1.0 exhaust housing. Had a nice "hit" to it n pulled hard, but I need a down low grunt monster, it sucked! Swapped .83 n it's a good bit better, but still isn't what I'm after response n egt wise. Could be being a dmax guy it set a high bar, set my LBZ up w 50% over n a 68mm ball bearing Garrett. No VVT crap. Current lml tow pig is sporting baby 62mm sxe n it has virtually no lag. Hell, the 68mm on my lbz lit pretty quick too. T4 setup is tempting only because I under shot on the dmaz w the 62mm n it's b good fit for my needs on the dumptruck I believe. Yeah, let me k on how u get on w the updated KC..

@@BruceMyersLBZ damn you’ve done some stuff. Yeah I don’t like the 1.0 exhaust side way too laggy. I’ve built a couple stock turbos with the kc balanced assembly and honestly those things seemed to get it pretty good on the bottom end but maxed out fairly quick and gets pretty hot. I think all the new things kc put into this turbo is going to blow pretty much everything out of the water.

From my understanding yes

Just go slow and test in a small area first. Every plastic is going to be different so you have to figure out what works for you in that application

Very nice. Definitely keep us up to date.

I hope to have more in the coming weeks. It’s hard right now because I have a back long of customers equipment and other projects that need to get done. Hopefully we will have an update on the P-pump Cummins, CR5.9, irate diesel fuel install on a work truck 7.3, and some duromax stuff all before December. A lot times I think “that would be cool to video for guys to see” and 6 hours later I am elbow deep into it and haven’t recorded anything.

I would highly encourage you to email KC directly on the availability if you are ready to order one.

Thank you for the kind words

I would recommend contacting KC by email if you are ready to purchase. I know they are very close but don’t want to speak for them. From what I understand is the announcement is coming soon (as in possible weeks soon). Fuel economy seems a little better but definitely not enough to justify the cost of a whole turbocharger….. with that said how many of us swap turbos purely for fuel economy. If it has improved it’s probably because it does a really good job at keeping everything clean. It’s definitely not the gains we used to see from deleting the early DPF trucks and picking up 2mpg or more. But at least for now this is still a legal upgrade.

@@cbr600rx7 Thanks for the reply, not totally doing it for the fuel economy but hoping for the added bonus. I have to do the up pipes so seems like a great time to do it. I really appreciate your posts and videos, makes the decision alot easier to wait for it.

It helps a little. I have been running this one for over a year and I gained around 3 gallons. Didn’t cut it off flush like some do so there is definitely more there but happy with the results. For me that’s an extra 50+ miles of range for free.

6.0

@@cbr600rx7 Lame. 🥴

Thank you for the kind words. We try to help when we can. I have used this product three times over two decades. This time it worked. The second time it didn’t at all (Saturn with major issues). Recently in a Cummins with partial success. I don’t like the mechanic in a can but it does have its place when used correctly and reasonably.

@@cbr600rx7 I feel ya, I see videos of people, griping about how stuff like this, clogged their, thermostat, or heater core, and their radiator. But I got to wonder 🤔 did they flush there cooling system, or even look at the directions? Know what I mean? 😏

That’s because you are confused or miss informed. The stage 1 is recommended for towing (this turbo) and probably could get away with a stage 2. The stage 3 66/73 is however not recommended for heavy towing. That stage 3 is a very large turbo and it’s going to be very laggy and miserable to tow with. That’s why they don’t recommend the stage 3 for that. It’s a little confusing because right now on the website they only have the generation 2 listed and they have 3 stages (1,2, and 3) available. For clarification this turbo is an early production (generation 3) in stage 1 (62ish mm) I hope that clears it up.

@@cbr600rx7 I was confused, thanks