Forget minimal runout. It's not worth the time. Trust me. I've been down the road over and over for 36 years now spending a fortune on loading equipment. I had a conversation with Boots Obermeyer about 25 years ago who stated to me that his best group with his segrated batch of ammo at a 600 yard competition surprised him. The "cull" ammo, which had the most runout, shot his best group ever. Erik Cortina stated he doesn't check runout anymore. I stopped checking with my Sinclair guage about 15 years ago. Consistent neck tension and annealling after every shot is far more important. I'm just trying to save you some time and effort over something that is definitely not worth your time. I have found that excellent barrels and actions and a top tier rifle builder and a well cut chamber with a top tier reamer can control "bad ammo" just fine

My budget is less than $1200, so I will stick with my Home tweaked out and hand loads for my Savage 110 7 Rem Mag. Way more component options than the 7 PRC

bullet runout doesn't matter. im gonna have to make a video of the test I did that proves it.

It wasn’t the guns it was the lack of knowledge of what you had

Arbor press and LE Wilson Micrometer seating dies! .001 under caliber diameter expander mandrel to set final neck tension. 21st century mandrels. For your 7prc, .283 mandrel.

Good video, but clean up those spent primers. Dang.

Simular is similar but nucular is not nuclear.

You can get better runout results with the RCBS FL die by raising the expander ball, easy to do because of the fully threaded expander rod. This enables the case to be supported by the die as the neck is pulled over the expander. You won't be able to punch out the spent primer though. Big deal. That's what decapping dies are for. Forster fl dies already feature a raised expander. Even better: use a Redding body die for the shoulder and a Lee Neck Collet die.

My experience has been that the most foolproof way to get extremely low runout is to first use a standard full length, non-bushing die with the expander ball removed, then follow it up with a separate mandrel die to set final neck tension. Have done this on multiple different calibers, with multiple different die sets and different reloading presses and it always has made very low runout ammo. Doesn't matter if the die floats or is locked down tight, even a progressive press can make very straight ammo with this approach.

Great vid! As are the rest of your vids. Hope you go ahead and do a series on your new 28 Nosler and other rifles in the future.. Thanks

No annealing won't help!

And yet the most accomplished long range competitors in the world say runout is unimportant and they don't measure it as part of their competition ammo process.

By just screwing the size die in until it hits the shell holder and cams over as you put it, you are pushing the shoulder back too far. Normally, you would use a fire formed case to set your size die so you are bumping the shoulder only .001" to .002".

I would like to see a case with 2 to 3000s of run-out ran out of a RCBS die. Then ran through the Forster die to see if it’s gets better. Is it the die? If they’re both run through the same press, then it will not be the press if it doesn’t get much better than one thing I have heard is that your Lapua brass is more consistent on neck thickness. I would like to see if that’s true thank you for everything you put out there.

I’ve been enjoying your content but this is a rabbit hole for most reloaders and hunters. You have a new guy in the comments thinking this important to him. It’s not. Get a 3/4 moa gun and go how to read wind and make shots in that. The only way you’re going to get .25 moa is the barrel your custom guy gives you. I get that you’re challenging yourself, but you’re confusing that new guy. Runout means nothing to the normal hunter.

If you use a neck bushing die, you need to use SAC neck rings to minimize runout. They have a bevel that allows the ring to center over the case neck instead of pulling the neck out of alignment like other bushings do.

People really go down the rabbit hole on this. Only because they don't know what they are doing. A plain Jane RCBS FL die set will produce very minimal runout. It's all in the quality of the brass and the die settings. I'm not saying you have to use Lapua brass either, because you don't. All of my ammo is consistently less than .003" TIR. Make sure you use a concentricity gauge when you're setting up your dies. There are tricks there, and you don't have to go crazy over it. Be sure to check you loaded ammo for runout. Some guys will check their brass, and then when they seat the bullet, runout is higher. Remember it's the finished product you are concerned about. I didn't see you spin your finished round. Don't be bashful, those should all be sub .003" TIR. And yes, a good "hunting" rifle can shoot sub 1" groups at 400 yards. If I had a place to set up a target at 800 yards, I'd be right there with you, shooting those sub 2" groups. I shoot steel out to 1,400 yards, and can tell you that runout is a major contributor to getting the best accuracy out of your rifle.

I may have missed it, are you neck turning before using a bushing die?

A series would help me alot being fairly new to reloading.

Last day Holiday deal on the Bottlerest. www.bottlerest.com/

Leave it alone.

I was taught as a teen and have done it ever since to run guns dry below freezing. I now live in AK, and in the winter if I am going hunting it can commonly be -10 or -20 so I actually clean all the firing mechanism with rubbing alcohol once it gets below freezing in the fall if I plan on using them. Once the gun leaves the house in the case it lives in the bed of the truck or out of heated spaces till the trip is over and I can clean it immediately when it condensates. You are only going to take a couple shots at most anyway, its not going to do damage to run them dry. If you were lubing a semi auto or full auto to run hundreds of rounds through it potentially below freezing that makes sense. But on a 10/22 or a bolt gun for a day of hunting were shooting 20 rounds would be extreme, dry should be fine. Honestly lube on a bolt action for me is mostly just to prevent corrosion not wear. They don't run hard enough outside of fringe cases to build up much heat or wear on themselves like most machinery does. When I was in the military they had cold weather lubricant for the .50 cal machine guns to use in artic environments. It was so thick and nasty even it tropical heat it would jam up lighter weight guns 50-200 rounds into shooting for the day. But its definitely better to clean your gun every 200 rounds than run it dry when you are in those particular fringe cases with a high volume of fire and heat.

So none of you have ever sat in freezing temps for hours deer hunting using a rifle thats been sitting in 20° temps all morning ? I learned this while hunting in December when i was a kid in temps way colder than what a freezer is set at ! Done it with everything from a .22 to a 50 cal muzzleloader many times....

Custom means you have money .

I teach long-range Precision rifle courses. My students can't believe how hard it is to make a good shot at 500 yards with wind and other forces acting upon the rifle. Prone supported is a different game than positional.

Ammo too?

Was looking at the bottle rest, great price! But $500.00 shipping to Canada a bit steep for me.

But I enjoy all your videos on LR shooting

Have you ever tried ammo test like that putting different hand loads in freezer or factory ammo in freezer try that sometime

Got to love those Seekins Precision Havak PH2. Accurate rifles

Great video buddy

Any steel that can shoot has enough quality to Handel temp changes. The maintenance is what maters and the new areosol clean lube product and a light air blowing to limit build up is a no brainer

Put painter tape on old holes to mark old. Just a small piece is great.

Just be sure,no ice on the bore...

That's a great price on your bottle rest. I haven't ordered one because I shoot off of a bag but that needs to go in my backpack so what's the difference right? Once you found a viable option to carry it on your belt, I was like heck yeah! I just ordered one of your bottle rests and the pouch. Looking forward to trying it out.

Just ordered a bottle rest. Thanks.

With cold ammo

Zero would go down an inch or 2 depending on your load or rifle

We usually hunt seals and walrus, and polar bears, whale,and reindeer

All the screws usually gets loose from being in sub zero and next day or couple more trips they would get loose some people here leave there rifles in the shed all winter long so this won't happen here at st. Lawrence Island Gambell, Alaska 38 miles away from Russia

was the ammo cold also?

We did that with a 1911 that was tuned for reliability after this clown did a shoddy job and it was still malfunctioning. 1 hr in the freezer then rushed to the range and fired 500 as fast as we could!! No malfunctions and no Dunkin in water

What brand is your range finder?

Are you going to put your rifle in an oven and heat it up to 150 degrees or so and see what that does? 😂 Lol jk. Good video

love the content.

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This is great content. I don’t think most hunters consider this but it sure makes a difference at range

Reviewing this information and seeing how much greater the impact these environmental aspects have at 1000 yards vs 500 yards is a perfect example of why you must know your rifle and practice at the ranges you intend to hunt at! Thank you for making these videos! I enjoy the content!

Your math is wrong at beginning difference between 7.2 and 6.4 is only .8 not 1.2

You zero your rifles at 100 or 200 yds?