@solo-nx5ml been riding for over a decade without it. Never needed it.

If that happens, you still have too much air in your lines. You have to bleed them again.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss gotcha; many thanks for replying to an old ass video lol

@@AkinaSpeedStarsAE86 bleeding brakes will always be relevant. I try to help wherever I can. Good luck with the bleeding and ride safe!

@@blueslim6622 You just look it up in your factory service manual. You should have one for every vehicle you own. Saves you a TON of money. You should be able to download it for free online.

@@dariusbrown5378 good luck with the project!

@minmin-fs1nn no. The dowels are mainly used to make installation easier and to help keep the gasket in place during the install of the cover. They are like locator pins. If you want, you could keep it somewhere safe so you can reinstall it when you open the cover back up in the future.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks much for the answer, i plan to put it back on my next oil change.

Brake cleaner is recommended. Kerosene may leave a residue

@ damn it I already did it. I was thinking of using tire cleaner. Because that’s the only two things I had… but I went with the kerosene.

@skinwolf as long as you clean your rotors with soap & water you should be fine. Reserve brake cleaner for brake components.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks! So far so good! Finally, no more loud embarrassing squeaking!

​@skinwolf glad it worked out!

Glad to help!

You are correct. But i hope you aren't thinking I used a torque wrench to break anything loose in this video.

Yes. Make sure you have clean threads or lubricated threads if your service manual indicates it

@@TheMotorcycleBoss I know this sounds like the same question but what about just checking the torque on a nut or bolt ? Periodically looking over nuts and bolts making sure they are still in spec . You should still loosen and re tighten or if it reaches spec your good and if it moves while tightening you should back off and re torque?

​@ononewheel2 i understand your question. We must loosen the bolt first because just tightening it without loosening can give us inaccurate torque values due to something called stiction. So in short, yes. Loosen then torque for the most accurate torque value.

Thanks! I hope this helps. Just be sure the bolt or nut you apply this trick to was properly torque down to begin with. I really only use this as a last resort

Thanks! I really appreciate that.

Glad to hear! It really is an amazing bike. I'm about to post a new video on changing the thermostat on this bike. The process sucks but it will hopefully be entertaining. Please subscribe if you haven't already. Most of my videos are around what I do to the zx10. Hope to hear from you soon! Ride safe!

Good luck with the project! It's quite time consuming but honestly very gratifying. Please let me know how it goes!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Definitely will! 🙏🙂

You first need to identify the leak. Good chance if your stator wires have oil, it's coming from the stator cover. It's a common leak. But if you aren't sure where the leak is coming from, an old school trick is to clean the area thoroughly and let it dry. Then dust the area lightly with baby powder. After a little while, you should be able to identify where the leak is by it showing you where the wet spots are coming from. If that's the case, order a new gasket for your cover from the dealership or get one from ebay or partzilla.com. Then, just follow the steps in this video. Cleaning the gasket surfaces are paramount. If you don't clean them well enough, you will get a leak again. I hope this helps! Congrats on the new bike. Ride safe!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss I’ll try and get the fairing off tomorrow and see what’s up. Is the spot where the wires come out a common place for the leak to start?

@@priz8200 Yes. One of the most common. It can also be a pain to seal sometimes. Just be sure to take your time when cleaning everything. You may even need to apply some silicone to the rubber grommet around those wires to help it seal.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss thank you so much for your help man seriously it means alot. You saved me tons of headaches

@@priz8200 no problem. I hope it helps!

Check your oil level. You could have put too much, causing your forks to fall into a hydraulic lock. Also ensure your forks are properly aligned.

@@awwtofu5862 no

Glad to hear! Happy to help!

@ArcanePath360 😆 You're so right! It seems to simply fit the vibe one feels when riding i guess. Or to appeal to the target demographic. I definitely use the dealership for tires. But that's literally it until recently; I need to get my v-star 1300's motor rebuilt and I'm more familiar with in-lines as opposed to v-twins. I applaud you for attempting jobs yourself. But tires are definitely a shop thing to me.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Agreed. I did spend less doing the tire myself even with the tools and weights I had to buy and breaking my foot pump, but I doubt I will attempt again as it's my only mode of transport and was sick of it by the end of the day. Was using all sorts of methods with zip ties, heat guns, long blanks of wood, and hammer and lots of brute force and 70psi being needed after half a bottle of dish soap to get it to seat. I imagine my wheel is full of soapy water more than it is air now, lol

​@ArcanePath360 ya that super sucks! I ended up doing it myself as well and it SUCKS! Because of how much I rode and how much work i was doing to everyone else's bike, I was super close to buying my own tire machine. It's definitely a hard job. Congrats on getting it done tho!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks. I feel like it's a right of passage or some kind of accomplishment where you can call yourself a man, lol. But some online videos make it look super easy. They probably use soft tyres for the video, not super touring long life ones like I bought that are made from cast iron. I think I'll leave it to the hydraulic press in future as my back is getting too old for that kind of thing. Safe riding man!

​@@ArcanePath360well said. Safe riding to you as well!

When I bought it, I believe is was around $120

@@alfredoroman4267 look up factory pro shift star

@DavidM2002 thanks! Glad it was helpful. just keep in mind that some switches are naturally open and some are naturally closed.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Good point. Thanks.

@EVil-ob8in that threaded rod tool for those forks is pretty vital. I did the same thing on my first set. Trying to do it without the tool seems difficult. The only way I can see it maybe working is if you force a rubber hose on the end and use that to lift it up. Thanks for the sub. Much appreciated!

Solid rotors can be more prone to warping due to the lack of bobbins. With bobbins (or floating rotors) the expansion and contraction due to heat allows some give and flexibility. Solid rotors don't have this ability and when they expand, they can warp. However; you can still reduce brake squeak on Solid rotors by deglazing brake pads, thoroughly cleaning your rotors, tightening bolts to their correct torque specs, and lubricating the proper brake components. I hope this helps! Thanks for commenting!

@npzninja without hearing it for myself, it is difficult to know. There are a few different causes of brake squeak. Just try to remedy it as best you can by performing this trick, thoroughly cleaning your rotors, deglazing brake pads, and ensuring all points are lubed that need to be if necessary for your bike. Sometimes simply installing low quality pads can create a squeak. So upgrading your pads may alleviate the issue if everything else has been done but fails to work. Hope this helps!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the tip, but I checked, rotors are brand new (just bought the bike a month ago, although used. I don't think this is the issue. however, I inspected the pads closer and they do look old. maybe i should start there. sucks, i was hoping for a cheap and relatively cheap fix. I know pads will run me anywhere from 50-100bucks, and i need to buy sockets because I don't know what kind of bolt heads are on this bike, but I don't have a tool for em.)

Glad I could help!

@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!

Glad I could help!

That's a weird one. You figure out the issue?

No problem. I hope this fixes your issue

If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.