Brook, I study your videos several times prior to doing any work on my bike. Truly grateful for the videos. What steps do you take to polish the chrome tubes? I'm ready to put things back together but I have sharpie marks and some other junk to get off.

Hi Brook,can the red assembly oil be used in all the pre lube locations where you used motor oil?

Just writing a note for myself: Oil pan bolts - 78 inch pounds

Your videos have been very helpful in preparing me to confidently inspect and ride back to New Mexico a one-owner 1984 R100RT from Wisconsin on Friday. But I have one question: We seem to be similar height (I'm 6'2-1/2"), and my bike apparently has a slightly taller windscreen. Have you experienced any buffeting at 75~80 mph? If so, did a given angle adjustment help? I ask because I'll be taking the interstate over the weekend due to the need to get back promptly.

My R75/6 was running perfectly, first start up in seven years- then my colleague touches the left side controls with the lights and now it's dead as ever- nothing happens when I turn the key. I guess I must start from the end

Brook, how did you determine the fork fluid amount?

Hi, thank you, very helpful! Would you mind sharing the EXCEL spreadsheet that you designed for this?

When talking about the back edge of the razor "popping up off of the case", mine is off the case a little bit all the way around while resting my blade on the center part with the bolt holes. I tightened my bolts all the way down with the installer tool and I don't think I should try to tighten them any more. Is it normal that there will be a little gap, as long as the gap is uniform?

Dont forget that the collars at the base of the new tubes are able to be tapped up or down so i always tap the collar up the tube then when you fit the cylinder with the new pushrod seal just tap the collar back down to re seat the collar to the seal. The haynes manual gives dimensions to make the seating tool so easily done

75 foot pounds is approx 100 Nm. For those of us in the S.I. world.

Incredible detail. Much appreciated.

I lucked out when I found this video. It’s interesting how long a wire becomes when it’s correctly routed. Thanks for posting.

Wow 👍

Mine had 6 spacer washers on the back of the things that the locating pins go into. Be careful not to lose those! Also, I braced the front cover with a m6 bolt as shown, but my crank still rotated when I used the impact driver to loosen the bolts. Am I correct that it is ok if the crank spins, but we are trying to prevent it from moving back and forth?

I have the same one! Even the color is identical. However, mine still have original painting and looks only slightly worse than yours after the rebuild. My ST stood unused for over 20 years in a German garage. Zero rust. After basic adjustments it runs smoothly, although it would be nice to replace the old dried grease in several places. Thanks to the informations on your YT channel, I will do it. Greetings from Poland. Stay healthy!

Sorry its a bit late to make a comment but i just wanted to know if there is a correct time for the oil pressure to drop when the motor is turned off . I think it woold maybe termed oil pressure decay time. Without a gauge it would be the time taken for the oil pressure light to come on when the ignition is turned off . I realise that it would be quicker whe the oil is hot . Thanks

Thanks,im amazed that there are only those 2 bolts and no upper mounting

Buenas tardes, soy un seguidor tuyo y necesito un favor . Me podría mandar el vídeo de la instalación electrónica. Estoy restaurando una BMW R75/6, y no encuentro mi grabación. Muchas gracias

Then you change from 750 to 1000 ccm. it is necessary to replace carburetor nozzles to some larger ones.

What did you use to cut down the 27mm socket?

Thanks for this really good explanation

Well done. Thanks again from Richmond Virginia.

Shafts and sprockets are keyed, so the alignment should be correct no matter what.

Is that special tool required to push the timing cover on or could you just turn the engine so the timing components are facing up and then push really hard from above? Then when you put in the bolts won't it seat correctly? That tool is just really expensive from cycleworks so I'm trying to figure out if it is required.

Hi Brook, Thanks for the great videos! I didn't take precautions and my connecting rod fell and left a small dent in the case. What can I do about it?

Does anyone know the bearing manufacturer and part number?

Great video. Thank you. It gave me the confidence to begin this much needed project on my 84 R100RS. It sounds like you submerged the entire carb body into the can of carb cleaner? No concerns about that damaging the plastic "plaque" on the carb body? Thanks! -mark

G'day Brook. At 1:10 you describe the 13mm socket fitting "just fine" on the left retaining nut. On my 11/81 RS the rear of that space has a tall lip, unlike the other side. I can fit a 13mm socket onto the nut but not the ratchet onto the socket... no space and the angled attachment doesn't quite do it either. Don't know if you've encountered that of course but do you have a solution? I'm wondering if I should remove/reduce that lip...just enough to get a grip and avoid rounding off the nut. Cheers edit: a smaller socket and ratchet set 1/4” drive fit with the lip and worked.

Can you provide me a diagrammatic video of this explanation pls. That will be very helpful as am using this very engine specification to fly my home made helicopter still under construction. Pls. Help me. Tks.

Nice video! Try to get yourself a Katdash Harmonizer. You won’t regret it

This video is pure gold. I have watched it 4 times while looking up at my bike. Thank you for making this video

Excellent I’m referencing your videos every day. Thank you!

Want to contact manufacturers of r1000rs1983 baxertwo cylinder opposed engine.

steering head outer race pulling tool no longer available 😮‍💨

Thanks dude! Your explanation really helped me.

Very informative, a much better way to remove the wiring harness.👍

Brook, my airhead’s oil cooler has seen better days from an aesthetic perspective. Can I rattle can paint it to refresh it?

I'm in the tank now and using this video as a sanity check. Chris Harris video convinced me to upgrade the fuel pump while I'm in there. Thanks Euro Moto Electric for linking this video.

Another great video. Thank you.

Really appreciate you making these videos... very complete, methodical, and informative! Thanks.

Thanks so much guys...

Hello, great job ! How do you intall the rubber on the lever ?

Watch the indian guys doing royal enfield tanks on a production line,just amazing

Sounds real nice,not clattery

Very informative video. As well as smoothing out the engine, I’ve found that setting the air/fuel mix correctly is critical in preventing the engine from wanting to bog out and stall when lifting off idle. Have you experienced this with these carbs?

I watched with amazement as a gentleman balanced the twin D'ellorto carbs on my 74 R90s many years ago. He'd use two screwdrivers while putting his head on the gas tank. When done, the idle was silky smooth. I asked him to teach me. He'd laugh and say that he couldn't explain it. He was service manager at a local BMW dealer. If his old bike(with the Earls forks /2 I think) didn't fire with one kick, He'd tear into it. Great video, BTW. Thanks

What an excellent video! One remark though: in some countries, however, this kind of conversion is strictly illegal as the only displacement allowed is the one that appears on the license. Although such infringement is undetectable during inspection, if God forbids there is an accident and the infringement is discovered, the insurance policy is no longer valid. In certain countries any modification that deviates from the license is strictly forbidden, so check beforehand.

Thank you. It will remain a mystery to me why the BMW engineers designed it like this. On all Japanese bikes (I own one of them too) replacing the fuel filter is a 10 minute job, if you do it slowly...

Really helpful - thank you! Just removed and replaced my lock (as it had no key) in tiny gap between frame and fender (from outside the left side of complete bike), but now have to remove it again, as the new lock rotates - yours is the only account that clearly shows the detent pip between the lock and the frame. Hopefully I've only got to do it all again just one more time to get it right...as it's not easy to do!

I see quite a lot on airhead forums about not using the shorting method with ‘modern’ electronic ignition due to risk of damage to components. Any comments ?