Soaking the inside with apple cider vinegar helps also. If it won't budge, drill the battery, then soak with vinegar. This will eat all of the alkaline material and allow you to crush the battery shell. A small cylinder hone can remove the crusty junk after . Rinse the inside well. In the future, either remove the batteries when not in use or make a sleeve with parchment paper.

Perfect! Good video.

Thank you, saved my Led-Lenser 🙂

The switch assembly doesn't move at all on mine after loosening the switch screw completely.

Works brilliant! THANK YOU

The trick with the bolt and monkey grip tool is ingenious. Like it mate 👌

I used one spritz of WD 40 and didn't need power tools or anything else listed here.

IT WORKED!! After trying all the other methods that didn't involve drilling, I was about ready to give up. Kept searching and found this video. SO glad I did. Good idea to lube the inside. Thank you for posting!

Hi, I have just been gifted an Apollo Prodigy 18'' which I was going to fit up with electric power. Can you or any of your watchers give me a clue as to it's age, I know it was marketed by Halfords along with Boardman and others.. Any information, and opinions of its worth post mods would be welcome

Used my 1992 Iron Beast also in the winter for years, now the bottom bracket has too much movement and will not come out, have to try your method too. have to try a longer pipewrench though your bracket looks like new. Thank you many many ....times!!

Great work! look, i chiped a little of the matt coating on my wheel and i want to spray a little of a matt spray on it. i will protect all the surroundings but im wondering if you have experience with little touch of paint, as i believe, it will be almost impossible to match the right color of the wheel...any procedure would you suggest? thanks

I'll be dog gone !! Wish I'd thought of or saw something like this years ago. Had a nifty 3 cell AAA maglite, and this happened to it. I failed to get it out and tossed it.

Thanks, worked!

thank you, thats the problem I have and will do that tomorrow

Mine has C batteries that are stuck and it doesn't match this situation. I'm looking for another option to get my batteries out.

5:40 ... you mention we can loosen the 2mm hex screw on the switch cartridge to give us some play to release the pressure against the clip we're trying to remove. Here's the prob: if there's a battery stuck in the barrel, you can't get that play you're seeking because the battery is stopping the switch cartridge from moving down a bit. As well, there is a lip on that switch cartridge that won't allow the clip to disengage if you can't move the switch cartridge down a bit. STUCK here still :^(

Finally, ive watched so much youtube to find this. Nice.

My bb teeth are so worn out the bb tool wil just turn without the bb turning braking the plastic is the last i can do. On the drive side the square thingy is 126 mm so the bb tool doesnt reach

Thank you.

My end cap is stuck, how can I get it off?

Thank you for the tip, that did the trick.

How can I find that Crank bolt at such length?

The battery connecting section is FF - so this video sucks

The raised ridge on the switch assembly directly adjacent to the snap ring is diabolical. I can't help but think it was designed that way to make it harder to take apart. But eventually I got the ring out using a heavy duty pick tool.

Do you always set up with the valve in? I find this restricts airflow.

Thank you Ted!

You can test for bubbles or unglued veneer by tapping it on top like a piano player and listening for a hollow sound.

poor

I had the exact same issue, bought a replacement on Amazon, too small, bought another from FCP Euro, just right.

Hi, my battery happens to be the 3rd one back or battery further in. I have a drill that could reach it but might be dangerous drilling into it? What is your recommendation? Thank you, Henry

Only problem I have with your video is that the hardware store is closed right now and I have to wait till tomorrow to go and get the screw that I need for that removal tool hack. Thank you for the tip.

The C-clip spring sits in a groove

You were absolutely correct! Moving the switch toward the batteries enabled me to get that keeper ring out with a LOT of fiddling. But the remaining task is the frozen, corroded batteries. I can't get the end cap out without destroying it. Been in a big vise with shielding for the teeth so as not to destroy the Maglite body. Tried a chain wrench and then a regular wrench with a cheater and it won't budge. I'm gonna have to fill the Maglite tube with something and leave it.....concentrated vinegar?? I tried Kroil.....but it's not really 'rust' per say, but battery corrosion. I dunno.....

Nice Video -the hope hub would be a good future proof investment for wheels. I am actually trying to have a standard QR 9mm wheel fit into a 15mm thru axel fork. I have researched and many say its just not possible but actually I think it would be possible with custom spacers - and in my research I found some engineers that actually tested both systems and found very little if any improvement in the thicker axel size mainly because it is the compression / clamping /friction pressure exerted by the skewer and where it is mounted to the fork. Because the bearings for both systems have a similar position and on the 9mm the internal axel provides the support needed for stiffness. I would say that looking at the thru axel fork in terms of support the bigger axel would be better in heavy duty impacts and reduced stress just because the size of the mounts are robust in size and width.

Thank you! I appreciate your instruction!

Excellent! Such a clear and descriptive video! Many thanks.

Nice I found a cube bike at the recycling centre that they allowed me to have I’m going to build it up it’s got old hydraulic brake system I’ve never had before so will be interesting to bleed them up I’m sure

Just building a balance bike for my 2year old son albie he’s bike mad and he showed me your video on his iPad He’s showing me what you do He’s gonna subscribe and me Keep up the good work Regards Adam & albie

Pro tip for ya: After BB removal and cleaning up with a rag and some solvent, go to the hardware store & get yourself a 1 1/2" round radial wire brush to be used in a drill. You gotta kinda push it into the BB shell, but once you do, it will clean it out like magic. Utilize the drill reverse depending on what side you're doing. You'll be AMAZED at how it scours out and cleans up the threads. Truly amazing. Pretty much equivalent to running a set of taps through it.

Ted, I cannot thank you enough. One of my batteries had welded itself to the casing. In the end I had to use a bolster chisel and a 2lb club hammer to knock it out. Maglite now fully restored.

Thanks mate, I really appreciate the video - was exactly what I needed bevor replacing batteries in my APC 1500!

Thanks - had the same problem and that fixed it immediately. 🙏👍👍👍

Brilliant information on how to remove that switch 👍

It was the swearing that did the trick brother. 😁 I’m dealing with the same thing only with a skinny Stanley Tripod flashlight and that double A is firmly planted. Gah!😖

You can remove the head, slip a socket wrench over the bulb socket, add an extension and whack it with a hammer. That will remove the last two batteries and the switch.

Excellent video. You showed us how to take the entire light apart. Great explanation. Thank you.

This is excellent!! You showed us how to take the entire flashlight apart and explained the pitfalls. Thank you, thank you.

Thanks, your video helped me out a lot.

Top choons, especially the 2nd one

Can the free body be changed to a normal hope freebody please