Schrader Tubeless MTB Conversion Hack for less than $20. Step by Step

How to measure your rim tape to the perfect width: • How to Measure Perfect...
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After trail testing this setup, there was an area of weakness that I felt could be improved without a huge cost. Using threaded valve stems would make the seal around the valve more robust.
Such as the Stans No Tubes option: amzn.to/2BJ7j8U or these ones: amzn.to/2TRWrgc
That said I rode a full week of trails (150km) with the valves as they are in the video and only had one case of needing to shake the tire sealant around to reseal the valve after adding air.
It's worth reading the comments below for more great tips on DIY Tubeless. In particular Robert Trageser's comments on the split tube method.
Items I needed to purchase to do this conversion:
Stans No Tubes Sealant : amzn.to/2IKooBV
Gorilla Tape: amzn.to/2pEHRLo
Valve Tool: amzn.to/2ylMii8
There are numerous benefits to running a tubeless set up. I wont go into the reasons here, but assume you've done the research and decided to give it a go. The cost of going tubeless can run from the very expensive option of new tubeless specific wheels and tyres, through to tubeless kits that include rim tape valve and sealant, all the way down to what we are showing here.
In fact, the total cost of this conversion was $10 worth of Gorilla tape and $20 for the sealant (both of which I used less than half). I also had to buy a valve tool that cost less than $5.

[@jamesl.7657]

wow from old schrader valves? tubeless? amazing, your like just engineer tires. Thanks.

[@billgillingham9125]

I appreciate the details... if the tape is too wide... the extent the tape should reach in the rim. So many other videos gloss over these important details. Thanks!

[@alonzocalvillo6702]

This is the first video that answers my question about the width of the tape.I was curious about the width.The videos that I have seen don’t mention the width. I am converting my bike that I am building to tubeless and have seen several videos on how to go about it.Also that tip about the valve is good to know.Thanks for the info.

[@burntkat]

I am surprised the valvestem sealed and held without being screwed down. Nice work!

[@stephenjlr]

In practice it was a bit dodgy but the air pressure of the tyre did hold it in place.. If you have a schrader tube with a threaded stem that would work better

[@devianb]

Yeah that seems like it would be more impossible than seating bead with floor pump, which I have done and is definitely possible with the right tricks.

[@paupiano1854]

devianb video of the bead seating please

[@boracay12]

@@devianb one trick is starter fluid sprayed into the tire and a match . Mechanics put on backhoe tires that way .I used it on motorcycle tires and lawn mowers . But idk if the sealent is flammable . If so , then don't do that .

[@WesLovelace]

Thanks Ted...Well produced DIY....Thanks 4 sharing!!

[@xawerionify]

When you you use two or three layers of gorilla tape then you don't need air compressor or co2 canister. You can simply use normal floor pump.

[@Bigginger61]

Great no nonsense video, thank you.

[@mjojrjr6231]

Same pump as mine, I managed to use that pump to deal with all my TR tires/tyres so far.

[@noevazquez6183]

Great video, just subscribed.

[@semanticks]

the hero every hobo shredder needs

[@randomrcprojects3754]

Disclaimer: you need a rim that’s got the lip so the head sits properly

[@liorlevi7677]

Great tutorial, ty very much!

[@joelalvarez1415]

Nothing is imposible. 😁Good job. Thanks I NEED TRY. 👍🏽

[@stephenjlr]

any luck?

[@redcat707143]

Good job

[@samfisher930]

I’m doing my next weekend I hope 🤞 it goes well

[@stephenjlr]

How did it go? Threaded valves are the key

[@billhill5505]

How often do you have to add air to your tubeless tires?

[@TheWebstaff]

Just adding to your use threaded valves. I've found opening the internal hole (tube side) to 11mm or so helps a lot with getting a good seal on the valve as it lefts more rubber sit into the hole. Just my 2 cents.

[@stephenjlr]

Dave Webster great suggestion. I’ve also found if your valve has threads further down the shaft you can use a lock nut to secure the valve to the rim which helps.

[@MrFitness94]

My valve popped out of the hole toward the axle!! Leave as much rubber on as possible

[@LarryRichelli]

Gorilla tape is a pain in the rear when you try to take it off at a later date after it is mixed with sealant. Stans tape is a much cleaner solution.

[@girlsdrinkfeck]

or use inner tube cut to size and glued down with guttering mastic it wont budge an atom

[@rommelreyes2209]

How long did it stay good? Can you do the same to a non tubeless ready rim and tire?

[@devianb]

When I went tubeless with non tubeless tires and wheels my front tire started losing pressure overnight after a month like 45 psi down to 15. Added a little more sealant and so far 6 months with the occasional top up.

[@RajKumarYadav-hd7xh]

Did the shredder valve stem would hold the rim ? As the there is no bolt ring in the nozzle over rim ?

[@stephenjlr]

It did hold. But it would have been more reliable if it was threaded

[@yogabbagabba8834]

Awesome! 👏👌👏👌👏👌👏👌👍👍👍👍👍

[@moonlalune8003]

Did you use a tube tire exterior or you had it replaced with tubeless exterior?

[@stephenjlr]

This was a regular tyre.

[@jonm2522]

is there a sealant that can be purchased in Australia that is as good as Stans. Is the brand Slime any good?

[@stephenjlr]

John Malihi Stan’s is available in Australia. Just ask your local bike shop.

[@e-bike-bys-vykken7422]

muc-off is the best one i have found so far that i use

[@ironman1518.]

Was wondering what "HOLDS" the valve into the rim? What keeps it from being pushed into the rim/tire when you put an air chuck on it to ad air?

[@stephenjlr]

Hi Fred, A threaded valve stem would have been heaps better for this hack. It can still be done without, once the air chuck is attached just pull the valve back so it's seated again. (you can push on the back of the valve through the deflated tyre while you're pushing the air chuck on). Once inflated the air pressure pushes it out, but it's not a great solution I agree.

[@ironman1518.]

@@stephenjlr Thank you.

[@simesimicevic8713]

@@stephenjlr you can zip tie the outside... just around next to the rim so it dosent pop in.

[@girlsdrinkfeck]

@@simesimicevic8713 i use guttering mastic

[@TeddyBelcher4kultrawide]

instructions unclear, eats the sugar soap

[@sgm505]

So dumb question. Are tubeless rims lighter? Why is this better than sealant in tubes? I’m still learning. Thanks for the video.

[@stephenjlr]

Tubless rims generally seal up better. I don't think it's a question of lightness. I would say most people would use sealeant even if using tubless ready rims and tires. Correct me if I'm wrong internet.

[@brandonsouba]

Some words of warning: Gorilla tape is super strong but getting this shit off fucking sucks. If you need to re-apply the tape in the future then you need a clean rim, and removing the gunk from gorilla tape took me about 1 hour per wheel with solvent. Using a clean rim is crucial for tubeless and I found that Stan’s rim tape sucks unless your rim is super clean.

[@Thomas-fk6ep]

Would you say gorilla tape is a better rim tape than others that are really made for it?

[@stephenjlr]

I've never used anything else, so can't really give you an honest first hand comparison. In this particular video the weakest link was the valves. I'm now running new wider carbon rims (as can be seen in another video on my channel) with proprietary valves. Still using gorilla tape and zero issues.

[@Thomas-fk6ep]

@@stephenjlr i just bought some 1" gorilla tape, and it worked great. Ty!

[@Thomas-fk6ep]

@TJ Thunder thanks! I recently had to retape, and the gorilla tape came off easily on the wtb i23 rim--it left little to no residue.

[@olegpetelevitch4443]

SHWALLBE AIR SHOT $70 !

[@stephenjlr]

I recently tried to use a blackburn chamber style pump, it still didn't deliver the blast required to seat the bead as effectively as a CO2 or compressor. But I think that was more a function of the tire/rim combination

[@stepheneurosailor1623]

🎅👍👍

[@jimbojet8728]

Failing at the cutting phase? Don’t worry cos Gorrilla tape comes in the 25mm ‘Handy Roll’ size. Made for cyclists!

[@stephenjlr]

Still can't find this in Australia. Plus we've moved onto wider rims in MTB now so not sure if the 25mm is still enough?

[@SolarizeYourLife]

Why did you buy such wide gorilla tape??? It comes in slimmer widths... should be using a glove on the hand turning tape....they sell hole adapters to convert for pesta valves, there is nothing keeping the Schrader valve tight in position like a presta valve... should have plugged the hole...

[@joebidenshearingaid1618]

Muc off probably isn’t liking your method , it cost me 60 dollars a tire following their method .

[@rterry2752]

Cant screw valve on to rim, dont do it this way, go buy the right valve.

[@stephenjlr]

What he said

[@keacoq]

My attempts failed on the seal around the valve stem. I used a valve with a full thread and the threaded retaining ring that comes with a tube or valve. The shape of the rim interior is important and difficult to cut the valve stem rubber part to fit closely enough. I understand that sealant weakens over time the rim tape adhesive and also tyres that are not designed for sealant. At present I am still with tubes. But seems to me the future of bike tyres must be tubeless. O to have reliablity like car tyres!

[@rterry2752]

You have no nut holding the schrader valve in, so you push down to inflate it and the valve pushes in, crappy idea !

[@stephenjlr]

Just need to be delicate Mr T! You're most definitely right though. This works much much better if you've got thread all the way down the valve stem.

[@51gelson]

and I thought that Brazilians were cow hands, not even to buy a valve, first world neh kkkkkkkkkkkk

[@rollinrat4850]

That valve is the weak point of the set up. If you pump with a hand pump out on trail and your not careful you can break the seal at the valve then never get it ti seal back up. I like the split tube ghetto method best. It the original method, most reliable and just one tube more expensive. Ive done it for 20 years not one failure!

[@stephenjlr]

Hi Robert, thanks for the reply. I agree the valve is the weak point in this setup. Trail testing this setup went almost exactly as you'd described, although I was able to reseal the valve by shaking the sealant around. In the end I abandoned this particular setup not because of the valves, but because I am wanting to run a wider tire and the cira 2013 width rims are way too skinny to sufficiently support the tire at the lower pressures. I did look at the split tube method but decided against it as weight savings was one of my goals. A threaded valve stem with locknut would probably add some reliability to the valve seal. (as would a set of Joes Schrader Tubeless Valves but they were unavailable at the time I needed them)

[@rollinrat4850]

In my experience,Weight savings just makes tubeless less reliable. Ive been doing this since before tubeless was a thing. I wrench in a shop too. Ive seen most everything and how it fails. Once you get this dialed in for your particular set up it just doesnt fail! Give the split tube set up a try. It creates a tubular tire like construction. I removed one assembly intact the other day, ‘rimstrip’ stayed attached with sealant and a little air pressure inside the tire. The construction allows a tire that conforms to the ground better(IMO) and its more reliable. Ali Clarkson on youtube is using them for trials with rubber cement. I havent tried that yet. Ive had good luck just letting sealant bond everything together. I do low pressure CX set ups and beat them on rocky singletrack on my singlespeed/ fixed cx bike. I really beat my wheels and tires. Usually hit the rims 2 or 3 times a ride! No failures in 20 years. Just a slight bit more effort. I havent weighed anything but its probably 1/3 of an innertube thats left. Let me know if you have questions. I only try to push this on people because its so good, simple And cheap!

[@rollinrat4850]

World According to Ted Ive also done it with older 26” non tubeless rims , Mavic 519s and Bontrager Mustangs, tires as wide as 2.4. I usually run 2.1- 2.3 on my mtbs. It works on pretty much any rim and tire as long as tire will fit rim just tight enough. As on any tubeless setup, tire fit to rim is the key!

[@stephenjlr]

@@rollinrat4850 Thanks for sharing the wisdom! Would you recommend the split tube even on tubeless specific rims?

[@rollinrat4850]

World According to Ted I think the tubeless type rim with the shelves just makes it better, but the only rims I really had a hard time with are narrow old mavic ma40s and Suns. OLD rim. Mavic Open pros work good. Theyre pretty narrow. So far Ive done it on H plus Son TB14s and Archetype rims. Both tubeless compatible 700c road rims. Ill probably try some 29er tires on these rims eventually. On the tb14s the set up was so good it held air for 3 days without any sealant. Probably had a lot to do with the Clement tires. They were good and tight. I really dig clements, contis and specialized tires. Really consistent good quality. For Conti always buy German made ones. Lots of brands tires and rims have larger manufacturing tolerances (especially cheap stuff)so that causes more variations in bead and seat diameters so more problems. Tires are really important so its good to invest money in them. I havent had much luck with Schwalbe tires,not cheap and their too light. inconsistent results with WTB, good tires just not consistently sized.

[@facebiter]

Terrible sound vibration on your mic, painful to listen to.

[@freespeechoneeach]

i just use an inner tube, put tyre on one side of wheel feed inner tube into tyre put other side of tyre onto wheel inflate off you go no messing with all that sealant shit and tape

[@billweberx]

And then deal with the flats.