DT SWISS RWS 9mm axle for use in standard QR dropout forks - HOPE Pro Hubs

Demonstration of DT Swiss RWS 9mm axle for use in standard QR dropout forks.
I refer to this as a 10mm axle in this video. The 10mm RWS is for rears, this is the 9mm intended for front wheels. Sorry for the confusion.
Amazon Link: amzn.to/3ExTh7P
Hub Adapters: www.chainreact...
DT Swiss RWS Thru Bolt Identification Details
Front 9 x 100mm Thru Bolt (includes nut) -2935S 115mm 58g Alum
Rear 135 x 10mm Thru Bolt (includes nut) -2945S 152mm 70g Alum
My bike frame can only accept straight steerer tube forks. At the time (and perhaps still) this meant I could not get a cross country fork with a 15mm through axle. Running Hope Pro hubs allowed me to swap out the axle stubs and use a thicker skewer to improve the stiffness of the front end of the bike. Reports from the interwebs seem to support this theory!

[@globalste]

I never knew there was a 10mm qr axle system and a 9mm QR! Very interesting...

[@robt6695]

Hi mate, thanks for the video re 9/10mm qr. Another option for your older frame with straight head tube is to use a headset with bottom outboard cups that will fit a tapered fork steerer. This gives you more options as these forks are 15mm and 20mm thru axle. But if you want to keep the same fork, and your hubs are compatible, then changing end caps will work like this. Cheers.

[@stephenjlr]

I thought you needed a 44mm headtube to do this? somafab.blogspot.com/2012/11/2013-frame-news-soma-juice.html

[@stefanmiele7933]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JKESEQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I converted a straight to take tapered using the cane creek head

[@stephenjlr]

@@stefanmiele7933Yep if your bike has a 44mm headtube you're right to do this.

[@OmarIllustrated]

exactly what I was looking fork, thanks!

[@simoncossettini9680]

Nice Video -the hope hub would be a good future proof investment for wheels. I am actually trying to have a standard QR 9mm wheel fit into a 15mm thru axel fork. I have researched and many say its just not possible but actually I think it would be possible with custom spacers - and in my research I found some engineers that actually tested both systems and found very little if any improvement in the thicker axel size mainly because it is the compression / clamping /friction pressure exerted by the skewer and where it is mounted to the fork. Because the bearings for both systems have a similar position and on the 9mm the internal axel provides the support needed for stiffness. I would say that looking at the thru axel fork in terms of support the bigger axel would be better in heavy duty impacts and reduced stress just because the size of the mounts are robust in size and width.

[@cesmas]

Congratulations very good video, you made me leave doubts and is already made the order, to see when it comes to me, but, as you get in the first part of the video do not fall the wheel when removing the qr axis? Greetings

[@PB-nn2dh]

You can change the headset with an external bearing race and it’s possible to use tapered forks

[@stephenjlr]

Hi PB> I'm not aware of a headset that will allow this on this frame. The 2013 Soma Juice is not a 44mm headtube. The following comment copied from the Soma Fab Blog : "Stan said... If it gets to the point where all suspension forks offer only tapered headtubes, we will move to the 44mm headtube. But right now we think the fat headtube looks out of place on steel bikes."

[@PB-nn2dh]

@@stephenjlr Oh no you're right its not 44mm straight tube. That makes perfect sense

[@athishmarutharaj6001]

hey just wondeing if these will convert a 110mm hub to a 100mm as well

[@ivan-j4l9x]

Hi will this thru axel work with a solid stud axle? It's just a long solid bolt. My hub has a cartridge bearing with 10mm hole. My fork is 135mm with qr dropout 9mm.

[@SticksBlog]

Thanks for the video! I am in the same situation... straight steerer tube so drop out axles... :( To be fair, I updated the fork on my bike not with the intentions up updating the wheels, however, a recent wreck left me with a broke front wheel... So, now I am having some Stans Arch MK3 wheels built on Hope Pro4 hubs. I realized how easy swapping out the end caps on these hubs are, so decided to swap the end caps out and go with the same 9mm RWS thru axle from DT Swiss. I only hope that it actually does stiffen the wheel up... Before I wrecked my wheel, I watched in horror every time I hit my front brakes and the front wheel twisted hard to the left (towards the disc). It resulted in my wheel permanently shifting about a mm or 2 over to the left. I'm hoping it didn't mess up my fork... However, the new wheels and hubs should significantly stiffen the wheel up, which should help with this issue, and now hopefully the new "thru axle" will only stiffen it up more. Unfortunately I have to wait though... I should get the wheel set tomorrow and the conversion end caps and RWS axles won't be here for another 5 days... However, I'm still wondering if this really will be an improvement over the standard 5mm skewer... Technically, the hub already rested in the dropouts on the portion that was already 9mm. The 5mm skewer simply locked the axle down... I dunno... I am hoping that with all the upgrades it will matter. Anywho, thanks for the video.

[@maximilianbusch5948]

Chad Poindexter How did it turn out for you? Did it actually stiffen up the wheel? Thinking about doing the same „upgrade“...

[@SticksBlog]

@@maximilianbusch5948 Yes, it did, but to be honest it's still not 100% rock solid. There is still some movement when I hit my brakes hard at high speeds, but not quite as bad as before. Maybe more importantly, I will also add that I find I have much less fiddle with my front brake now since going to these 9mm thru bolts. Before, I always had to make some sort of adjustment to my front brakes calipers to realign the rotor between them when simply taking my wheel off and putting it back on. This led me to think that with the old, 5mm skewers, there was room for play and that I would always put the wheel in slightly offset from the previous time the wheel was on. Now, with these thicker, sturdier 9mm thru bolts, I haven't had to readjust the calipers even once when simply removing and reinstalling the front wheel. It lines back up the same way every time. So yes, if I had to do this again, this is the route I would go instead of those times 5mm skewers.

[@h3dgecore]

Chad Poindexter I just did this with a Stan’s Neo hub. One thing I noticed when installing the TA end caps was that they do not have any knurling (the metal pattern that locks against the interior side of dropout) on the end of them like the qr end caps do, meaning it is a smooth finish on the end of the end cap. Did the TA end caps you used on your hubs have anything like that or were they smooth as well? The RWS through bolt/skewer has it on both ends (cap and lever) that lock against the exterior side of dropout, but my worry is there is not enough friction between the end cap and the interior of dropout and it could possibly lead to wheel slipping out or moving. Probably worrying over nothing, as the pressure created by the RWS is probably sufficient, but wanted the opinion of someone who has already done this. I hope I explained everything clearly and you get what I’m asking. Thanks is advance for any info you can give. Cheers!

[@SticksBlog]

@@h3dgecore Good catch on the lack of knurling on the Hope Pro4 hub end caps, and likely an even better testimony at how much better this set up is over the stock set up! I have and no issues with the wheel slipping, loosening, or anything of the sort since moving to this set up. I will say this though, the drop outs on my bike (and now most with dropouts I believe) have lawyer lips, which is simply a raised ledge around the outside of the dropout. This lip will actually capture the outside edges of the axle on each side of the wheel. By doing this, this basically holds the wheel in place, assuming that the thru bolt has been tightened appropriately. So, between this ledge, and by tightening the thrubolt correctly, the wheel shouldn't go anywhere, and in my experience, it hasn't!

[@h3dgecore]

Chad Poindexter awesome! Thanks for the info and quick reply. You’re video on your Marlin upgrades was also very informative and helped me get an idea on what I wanted to do with mine. Thanks again!

[@dha588]

Do they have one for the rear?

[@stephenjlr]

Yes they do. www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/rws/10-mm

[@kaedeschulz5422]

Sadly i only have cup and cone hubs.. So i can't do it. Still interesting that such a thing is around.

[@mtbbode70]

I have the exact opposite problem, I cant find 27.5 a fork with a straight steerer and 9mm qr.

[@stephenjlr]

You could potentially squeeze a 27.5 wheel into a 26 fork. There are some nice 26 forks with QR and straight steerer in the second hand market

[@danlane2547]

This is a year late, but the Manitou Markhor has an option that comes in 27.5 with a straight steerer and QR.

[@brauljo]

Came here to find out what RWS stands for (ratchet wheel system), maddening that the DT Swiss website doesn't say.

[@stephenjlr]

Yep this product isn't explained very well through the vendors or dt swiss site. Hopefully the video can just show people what it is and how it works so you're not buying blind.

[@Hawlkeye-e9p]

The 142x12 rws head unscrewed from the axle. Now i cant take off the wheel. What can i do?

[@OLI-vx1md]

Cut a slot in the exposed axle and then use a drift and mallet to tap and rotate the axle out. It will ruin the axle but it is an effective method

[@FightFilms]

I doubt this makes ANY difference as far as stiffness. It's still the same hub, which is where the stiffness comes from once it's clamped down hard enough.

[@stephenjlr]

I think these allow you to clamp it down harder though. But yeah.. I'll be honest I'm not noticibly faster on my local 10km loop. Who doesn't love buying bike parts though!

[@johnlesoudeur3653]

I found it stiffer. I have the DT Swiss 240QR hub so used the DT Swiss conversion kit to 9mm. Forks are Magura Laurin.

[@OLI-vx1md]

A larger diameter axle is inherently stiffer, science and stuff

[@eXTreemator]

no it's not. because it's only called an axel but it's not ​@@OLI-vx1md

[@rogeliopitti7120]

I have a question....This DT Swiss 9mm × 100 mm thru axle can be used directly in a 9 mm x 100 mm QR hub? ....Like a bolt and nut?

[@stephenjlr]

No. The first skewer I show can be used with a standard qr hub. But the 9mm skewer needed me to swap the axle stubs as demonstrated.

[@ahrayahisrael494]

Can this conversion Thru axle kit work for both front and rear hubs?

[@stephenjlr]

they make one for the rear axle also. This particular one is specific to the front. The rear on my singlespeed is a bolt on so didn't need the dt swiss RWS 10mm.

[@ahrayahisrael494]

@@stephenjlr Thank you

[@ahrayahisrael494]

@@stephenjlr Where can I purchase this kit?

[@stephenjlr]

@@ahrayahisrael494 affiliate link in the description (updated Dec 2021)

[@MrRicanpapi20]

You know you can buy a head set from Cane Creek that will allow you to run a tapered steer tube?

[@stephenjlr]

For this head tube? It isn't a 44mm

[@OLI-vx1md]

No you can't. They're only appropriate for certain headtube types, the one shown is not one of them

[@inFernalEmmIsaRY47]

Does it work on the rear QR dropout?

[@OLI-vx1md]

They make dedicated rear axles of different sizes

[@pooritoadij1284]

Thank you😘😘

[@wyo112]

hello! i have 9x135 qr shimano 11s on the back ,what kind of dtswiss hub should i get ?

[@stephenjlr]

It depends on the hub you're using on your wheel. If you're using Hope hubs and you want to use the DT Swiss RWS 10mm skewer www.dtswiss.com/en/components/hubs-and-rws/rws/10-mm then you'll need the Hope Hub adapters r2-bike.com/HOPE-Conversion-Kit-RW-Hub-Pro-4-Pro-2-EVO-to-Thru-Bolt-10-x-135-mm. Hope this helps. Try and get everything from the one retailer so you can get them to confirm compatibility

[@marklawrenson7331]

Hey mate, really appreciated this video. One question - you mention in your comments that it is in fact a 9mm RWS QR axle you are using. Which hub adaptors were you running on the wheels to make that work? 12mm? or 10mm? My wheels I am hoping to run them on can be set up QR or for 12mm axles so guessing I might need to find another adaptor to change them to 10mm to use this? Also how noticeable was the difference between the 9mm version and the 5mm version?

[@stephenjlr]

Hey, This whole process was confusing AF. I think your axle choice depends on the type/spacing of your dropouts. If you have QR dropouts then I don't think they will accept a 12mm axle which is why I went down this path in the first place. (Correct me if I'm wrong internet). I use the HOPE Pro 2 Conversion Kit 9mm to match up with the 9mm axle. Found them on CRC: www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/hope-pro-2-conversion-kit-9mm/rp-prod40654

[@stephenjlr]

Hard to say how it changed the bike as I changed lots of other things at the same time, most notibly the wider lighter carbon wheelset which stopped the 2.4 tyres rolling over.

[@OugaBoogaShockwave]

thx for the video. i have a older bike from 2008 which has that Swiss RWS 9mm. the rim got destroyed & have a "similar" looking hub on another wheel. i was hoping i can some how transplant the inner works from 1 hub to the other but it's not designed like the one you're using where you can just easily pop out those end pieces. i also have a newer bike from 2017 that has the 12mm rear & 15mm front & my prob is "pitch" ? for the tread or something. this shit always gets more convoluted as time goes on & this "boost" thing doesn't help. Thx for video, i learned something but it doesn't resolve this Pitch & length thing for me since companies complicate shit. the 80's & 90's were so much easier to work on your bike.