You’re welcome. Thanks for watching

@@michaela.5363 I do what I can

There are a lot of different ways to cut curves, but it depends on the size of the workpiece and what tools you have available. Using a curved template and a router is one way, using a band saw or jigsaw cutting close to your line then sanding to the line for that perfect radius is another. I don’t have any videos on my channel highlighting these techniques but here’s one that might put you in the right direction kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIaXgKNnrLyiaZYsi=lvcqXUpoJEHz-JID

@@JFKreations I appreciate your quick reply but I didn't frame my question appropriately sorry. What I mean was that this video shows how to use a router on a straight line; what if I need to use the same handheld router to perform a moulding along a curved line that has already been cut with a jigsaw? This video shows how to design a guide to work the router along a straight line; how about a curved line? I hope I phrased the question more accurately and can hopefully receive a helpful answer. Thanks

@africanhairdressing6391 do you mean just putting a profile like a round over or a chamfer along the edge?

@@JFKreations Yes, along a curved or sinuous edge

@@africanhairdressing6391 the guide bearing on the router bit should follow along the edge regardless if it’s a straight edge or has a curve

Glad it helped!

Yes. I have some other videos on my channel about dust collection automation. Here’s the latest. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6a6f3Vsf56thbssi=SnJyoapc5Rbk7ZeI

Yes, as long as the hole saw can cut through metal

Nice! Let me know how it works out

That’s true, but is also completely irrelevant information to this video. That’s because professional painters are just trying to get paid and get to the next job. For them it’s about striking a balance between efficiency and quality, not necessarily looking for the absolute best results. But this video isn’t about what professional painters actually do on projects, it’s not a guide for professionals. This is about getting the best results for a homeowner tackling their own remodeling project. A homeowner doing their own project can wait as long as they want, because profits don’t matter when it’s your own project. And that’s who this video is for.

@JFKreations I get your point, but the reason I viewed this video today (8/29/24) was because I had a room painted today. The job was complete at 3p eastern today. Out of curiosity, I asked the painter how long to wait before I reinstall all the outlet covers. He said "late tomorrow morning is fine", so basically 18-20 hours of dry time. I'm 60 years old, I've painted dozens of rooms. I never waited more than 24 hours for interior latex. Of course a home owner can wait for decades to reinstall them. But they don't have to

@contrabandjoe7974 you are technically right, that would be an absolute base minimum to wait. However other factors must be considered, number of coats applied, thickness of coats applied, and environmental factors too, humidity, temperature, etc. Just because the paint is “dry” if doesn’t necessarily mean it’s fully cured. I’ve seen the end result of rushing on things like this. In your case, you’ll most likely be fine waiting only a day, but since you’re the homeowner acting as the finisher on the project, why rush and do the absolute minimum? You’re not the contractor just trying to finish and move on. The bigger problem is both in the context of your situation, since you’re replacing the covers yourself, and considering the target audience, your comment is completely irrelevant. This video and this channel is targeted to help first time homeowners and do it yourselfers tackle projects, by sharing my decades of experience in the construction trades, which includes professional painting. The base minimum or what a professional would do on a project has no value in this context.

@JFKreations I'm not sure I agree that my input is "irrelevant." It's a different take/approach/opinion/experience. My sample size isn't as large as yours, but I still have context. Time is money, pro or amateur. Your video is valuable but could be misleading for rookies.

It’s ok to be wrong-ish. As I mentioned technically you’re right, for most situations, and will likely be fine. But the advice I gave is the best general advice for beginners that will work for all situations, even if it’s not always necessary to wait that long. It’s not misleading in anyway. So in that case, in this context, yes your comment of doing the base minimum or what a professional would do so they can move on to the next job, is irrelevant.

You are welcome

There can be. Laying down some masking tape can limit or in some cases eliminate tear out

@@saabinjake ok, make a video yourself. Show us how it’s done .

Thank you, glad I could help

You are welcome

@@DeenHussain-zz3gs thanks, hope it was helpful

@@killacuz3 you’re welcome, glad I could help

@@JFKreations Hey, what if you are cutting on a curved line like an arched top door?

@@deserayfuller8452 cable coax and satellite coax should be the same basic wire. You should be able to switch things around as needed

Ok, so I should be able to just follow the coax cable from the satellite unhook it and then reconnect the cable "internet" back then right. Thanks!

@@deserayfuller8452 basically yes, at least in theory. It does depend on proximity though, meaning if the demarcation points of the satellite and cable drops are close enough to each other to do the old switcharoo. If you need to you can extend the coax with a barrel connector, but I do recommend covering that splice with weatherproof boots. The only other thing to look out for would be if there are any splitters in line not designed to carry the signal of cable high speed internet. Other than that, you should be fine.

@@fgrfseaerdacd same here. I don’t like sitting on my wallet anyway. I’m a front carry kind of guy

Glad it helped

Glad it helped

Glad it helped

No problem!

Glad it was helpful!

If the hole is small enough… that’s what she said.

I’m a lifesaver and a heartbreaker. Glad I could help

@@JFKreations 3:20 Saved me today, this is the best and easiest solution, worked perfectly. Thank you

Sometimes only a skosh will do

I used an 18 gauge brad nailer in this video and usually use that for most trim. 18 gauge holds pretty well and doesn’t leave a giant nail hole to fill after

Awesome! Thanks so much!!!

Car bomb commercials? Doesn’t sound good. Glad I could help

@JFKreations lol he was 45 acting 18. I'm sure you can find him lol. But you gave me lots of knowledge to build on I'm a handyman had took on a large free standing shelving unit job. I didn't like the inch and a half gap between each unit. I made a few jigs and the seem to work. But on a scrap run it produced a lot of smoke and took to much pressure. An unsafe amount. I'm cutting small inserts to inset basically 2x4's as the structure. Leaving a 3/4 inlay to cover the layers of plywood. Jigs are working well. But my 40 piece router kit is letting me down. Lol so I ordered flush cut bits I think will help.

Most new locks have adjustable offsets. Have you checked if it’s retracted to the shortest setting

My pleasure!

Glad to hear that! And my buddy Josh will be happy to have you as a new customer!

Yep. Electrolux electro-sucks. I’ll never buy another one of their appliances.

It took three weeks for someone to take a look at it. When they arrived they said it was a cracked intake valve and they have to order the part. Looks like it’s going to be another 2 to 3 weeks. The technician showed it to me the plastic doesn’t seem very sturdy.

@@AppleGazin yep, sounds about right

Glad it helped

You’re welcome, my oldest, best and at the same time worst video on my channel. Had no idea how to film back then, but it worked out ok. Glad I could help

Sex sells my friend

I usually like the Milwaukee HoleDozer, they’ll cut through anything

That should work too

Happy to help!

Great idea

You’re welcome, glad I could help. You went to Winship in Eureka California?

Glad I could help

It was just some cheap dowel rod from Home Depot.

Glad it helped!

Take multiple passes lowering the bit a little more with each pass until you reach the depth you are looking for

Indeed. Glad they’re making there way over here

You’re correct, I believe I mentioned that in the video or at least I meant to

Thanks for watching!

You're welcome!