Every speedo will be different so you will need to figure out the power connections for yours. In my case I have a spare but used the one in the car to check which pins had 12V. CAN wires are always a twisted pair so easy to spot, connect them to your transciever as shown in the video, send power to the speedo and your good to go.

Did you run the installation from a DOS prompt? Did it show any errors while doing it? When setting up SavvyCan you need to Add New Device Connection and select the correct com port.

​@@alibro7512 Yes I Updated the firmware from the ESP32 whit the CMD. And I selected the right COM port

​@@alibro7512 Hi I would like to continue with the project, can you give me more information on how I can fix it

@niek5753 Ensure when you first test it nothing else is connected to the ESP32, only the USB connection. If the firmware updater is working then Savvycan should see it. If still having issues watch the video again from around 11 minutes in. I did this in real time so you can see how it should work.

It sounds like you made more than one change to cause this so if you can't remember what it was then go to the help section which is pretty good and carefully go through every setting.

I'm not sure how that could be true as using a Sine wave to control the motor is smoother and quieter therefore should be much more efficient but I'm no expert so don't quote me. I have a large battery on my bike and don't use it regularly so never tested the difference.

Did you watch the video? I did that near the end.

This is me opening the 2nd pack kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp-lnKGaabd2ia8 The contactors are in the control unit at the rear of the pack

Sorry, don't know

The speed isn't important as Savvycan will handle it. If you're not seeing anything then you're not connected properly.

@alibro7512 well after digging around i found out that the "sn65hvd230" Transceiver can't handle the low-speed , i should use the "MCP2515" module OR "MCP2551" Transceiver i order to the low-speed to work properly. I will test and see anyway.

@@NOONFIX Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. How slow is slow?

@@alibro7512 low-speed CAN caled also FT CAN "Fault-tolerant CAN" two wires or sometimes one wire only high CAN wire and the low CAN wire connected to ground, used mainly in car comfort application "lock unlock, air conditioning, seats ..." the difference is the physical layer and the termination resistor, in the high-speed CAN it is 120ohm on each side but in the low-speed CAN it is depending on the number of the nodes in the bus! Another main difference is in the FT CAN the bus will continue working even if there is a short on the bus or high and low shorted or weak signal because the information is not so critical lick the high-speed . I found that we have to use a special CAN Transceiver like "tja1054, tja1055" in order to work properly, but i will try with MCP2515 Module and MCP2551 Transceiver and i will let you know.

@@NOONFIX My old Freelander that I converted to Electric has only normal CAN running at 500kbs. It was designed around 2000 so is pretty simple compared to modern cars.

Found the solution!!! Don't USE the updater script! For some reason the pins 4,5 didnt work for me ! So opend the Sketch and changed the line Number 121: (CAN0.setCANPins(GPIO_NUM_4, GPIO_NUM_5)) to: (CAN0.setCANPins(GPIO_NUM_21, GPIO_NUM_22)) And remore or comment the two lines above : pinMode(21, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(21, LOW); And now the RX is pin 21, and the TX is pin 22 And DO NOT use the latest version of SavvyCAN ! It's so buggy I'm using version V208 [build Nov 30 2022] and it works perfectly! And don't forget before you upload change the partitioning scheme : tools --> Partision Scheme ---> Minimal SPIFFS And that's it ❤

Well done for getting it working and thank you for sharing the solution. The links often fail or take you to a different product but it's great to hear you got it working anyway. I normally use Linux for Savvycan and it mostly works fine but I get the odd crash like you.

The BMS should indicate if a cell has a lower voltage than the others.

Hi, Sorry, no, to paid support or Patreon but feel free to ask here on KZbin comments and if I can help I will. Have you seen my latest video? It should help get you started with SavvyCAN which is vastly superior and if you check the video description there are useful links. Openinverter.org is a mine of useful information and full of helpful people.

It was cycling through multiple faults, possibly because I added a termination resistor that I shouldn't or maybe because the software was glitching. SavvyCAN is much more stable.

No idea about LIN Bus and the car is sold now. Good luck with this but watch my latest video for how to connect SavvyCAN. It's much better software but be sure to check the video description for links to other KZbinrs that explain it better.

Glad it helped

Now go to my more recent videos for one on using Savvycan with a $5 ESP32. It's way more useful for reading CAN.😋

I had a spare cluster but couldn't figure out what pins powered it up so metered the one in the car. Once you know the power pins just look for twisted pairs and they should be CAN.

Does the cluster throw out bus data when powered? Will be nice in narrowing down the bus data that is used to control the cluster vs data when plugged into vehicles canbus

@@slapcitykustomz1658 Yes mate. My cluster is from an old car (2004) so not much but some.

​@@alibro7512Thanks big help

Good question. In my case the bus speed was 500kbs and Savvycan picked this up automatically. I'm not certain if it will do that for all canbus speeds.

Any battery the right voltage should work with it

@alibro7512 its got a plus and minus and 2 other leads ,ive seen it done here were a bloke get the motor running with a standard controller well not standard a 2mode sinewave or any controller that u can 2 or more motors off but theyve took it down he was class with wireing they completely wiped him off the system.honestly mate when u get to the barebones of there batterys theyve plus thats minus and viceversa im going to get another aged battery and put a vid out there of how they set up and see who can crack there setup if only just to say we've sussed ye enough of your ridiculous prices when there just the same as a standard battery but built proper with decent cells ,we done it with segway ninebot not only flashed them but cracked there code took them down a peg or 2 same needs happening here 👍😎

If it is a few years old then maybe, you need to give it a try. The newer models cannot be programmed this way.

Sorry no. Have a look at my latest video for a better hardware/software option and check the video notes for links to how you can discover this for yourself.

Yip

The resistors are internal to the BMS and are only active when the BMS is balancing so I've no way to check them.

@alibro7512 Thanks for the reply. I was curious about how much the shunt currents were and thought you might have seen them when you removed the pcb from the bms box.

Every manufacturer make their own CAN ID's and they can change from model to model. If you can find a DBC file for the car it can be used with Savvycan to explain what each is for. If not you need to figure it out using the methods mentioned in the video I listed.

Sure, it's just a cheap buck/boost dc voltage converter plugged into a 19V laptop psu. I never got around to buying a 'proper' bench PSU but use these instead.

Not normally but if you have problems then try grounding it.

I saw similar behaviour when it was connected to the wrong data pins. Double check the transciever voltage and ensure you are using the correct output from the ESP32 and you are using the correct data pins.

@@alibro7512 you were of course correct. Thanks for coming back to me so quick. I've got it working on the Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart. Next step is to interrogate a spare instrument cluster with datalogs from a vehicle log to try and work out what IDs turn on/off the cluster lights, and data such as speedo, rpm and mileage/trip.

That's great, thanks for getting back. Was it the wrong data pins or something else?

@@alibro7512 wrong data pins. Didn't pay enough attention to the video...

Thanks for letting us know. Hopefully others will learn from how you figured out what was wrong. I was lucky that Colin himself answered me when I was struggling with the same issue.

Yes, I should have been more explicit about that.

Thank you Artur, your Jaguar series was a real inspiration. How is it going?

Thank Ali, it is going well. I drive Jag almost daily. I did around 20k trouble free electric miles so far. I have not worked on it over the last year or so because it just works. I just charge and drive. Hopefully I will find time this winter to work on some enhancements. I see you stay busy, keep up the great work!

@@ArtursGarage Sounds great but you know an EV conversion is never complete. I'd love to see videos of tweaks and updates and I'm sure others would too. 🙂

@@alibro7512 LOL, I know well EV Conversion is never complete. It was a poor choice of words on my part, lol. I got so many plans for it.

You can normally order a PAS sensor along with the controller.

No, there is no thermal management of any kind in this pack. I suspect the modules are heavily over specced to compensate.

@alibro7512 thanks for clarifying that. Then I can go ahead of my e-golf module Leaf battery build.

what for?

Lol sorry can't help there.

Probably the current. This setup can handle over 200A so with 400V we're talking about 85kW

LOL, I had to do a lot of editing. 🤣

The stock Nissan Leaf inverter wasn't connected.