Is it possible to learn how to plaster through city and guilds course and then go out there and start plastering in your own? With no one to guide you except trial and error is it possible to learn though learning online and again through trial and error? Any advice please?

Guys a damn good plasterer makes it look easy lol and it aint

or do you make the impossible possible on your own ,if so you have my deepest respects

im a qulified renderer plasterer tiler etc bar gas an electric or water ,dont touch them ,22 years experience , take it you got a labourer with you lol?

any jobs

One of the best video clips I have ever watched

here in the US we use redwood strips 3/8 x 2" skim the whole wall and set the strips into the mud on the highpoints plumb, let it set up, screed off using the strips, cut out the strips and fill, you can also use these to square up walls to each other, we do this to float showers for tile but same process applies to anything. ......once basecoat is square, flat and plumb you can finish it with anything.....coat of plaster, Tile, stone, marbel, etc works really well and is basic and quick, tile setters been doing this forever in bathrooms.....walls are never square or plumb.....even if it was perfect when built they shift and move over time

I've never plastered. First sealing I did was a artex cleaning. I did not take anything off. Just pva and a thick coat of multi finish. I found it easy and a good finish. One coat pva. It was a tiny sealing albeit

What’s the best approach for spikey droplet artex? Are you able to just chip them off and then follow this process or should this also be avoided.

My house was built in 1967 so would I be right in thinking my popcorn ceiling is most likely going to be a asbestos mixture, i was told only properties from pre 1960 used a asbestos mixture, I suppose I will have someone test a small piece before we skim over this but just wondering if anyone could confirm this? Thanks

I don't understand what the sponge is doing...you got the plaster nice and smooth but then the sponge made it bumpy again?

Thank you for explaining PVA is not required for brick surface.

Enjoyed watching the master at work. Will render some steps in a few weeks... cheers

Does weber render stick well to cement board and do you need to mesh the cement board first? Thanks for any advice given

Enjoyed watching that. What a clever idea to set up 3 screeding points. 👍👍👍

Como é o nome de material que você arranha a parede?

Georgeous

Superb job. You have just given me an idea of how to change my garden walls now without knocking them down and building them with something else. Cheers.

Nothing traditional about synthetic fibers.

Amazing job. If i want to render the damaged brick wall, can I instead reinforce the wall with render mesh and then install slip bricks on the top?

What model power float are you using? Didn’t see it mentioned in comments, thanks.

Thanks

Why would anyone have their brick covered. Now, they will need to maintain it every 7 years or so. If anything, you should have just had the house brick pointed. You'd be good until the end of dsys.... Bad mistake there.....

I plaster the inside of my wife’s sweet walls

Great video thanks. Other than PVA on the edges, how did you prep the painted surface of the existing plaster before going over with new plaster finish? Do you vary the prep according to what paint is on the existing plaster? Thanks

Im wanting to board over tiles. Is this primer good so I can dot and dab the plaster board to?

Thank you very much for your help

Spent the first 2 days of my apprenticeship as a Solid Plasterer in '64 learning to pick up sand and cement render off the hawk. Looking at this, I can only imagine how sore she was the next day.

What is the rough cost to fully render an average sized 4 bed detached house in 2024?

Absolutely brilliant, very informative article and very easy to understand, thanks 🙏🏾

Do you put any catalist in the top coat , also do you wait forcthe primer to go off or tacky before laying on top coat

What mix would you use for mud bricks? 7 or 8 to 1 cement 1 lime?

Keine Ahnung vom verputzen.

Scrape and Skim strait over iv done this loads just messing on good pp3 mask

A very helpful video describing these two products, their use and surface application. Thank you very much.

Thank you. This is extremely helpful. I was wondering if you consult. I am in the US and virtually no one is doing traditional plaster work. I cannot find anyone to consult regarding how to deal with 2 problems in a 1910 home: 1) how to plaster over brick when the brick was originally coated with bitumen and that is now a bit brittle; 2) a wall that starts as brick and continues as a stud/lath and plaster wall that has been wallboarded. The plaster on the brick had failed after 100+ years and many in more recent times with windows not caulked an painted. I'm on a slow trip to putting the old girl back together. On the bitumin I've been advised to use "Plasterweld". I can get no advise on the brick/stud wall where I'm worried about cracking between the two parts of the wall. The stud wall wallboarded when that plaster failed and someone wire lath over the wallboard onto the plaster on brisk and then used dry wall mud over that. I'm thinking about dot and dab wallboard onto the brick and then treating the joint as any wallboard joint. I'd use wallboard used for bathrooms here. We have a product called Structolite (a gypsum scratch coat plater). We do not have gypsum drywall adhesive ... I'm thinking Structolite + PVA or cementweld. The only person I can find here to consult is an excellent conservation carpenter, but he's not a plasterer. He insisted I need to screw wiremesh to the brick walll. He also insists that I should mix lime putty with the Structoliite for my finish coat. I would be interested in learning if you do paid consulting.

You just crossed all of your joints whilst applying and with the speed skim. The speed skim doesn't get it flatter I just does it faster it's all about perspective. The size of person, the size of the wall and the size of the float. To an ant a 14 inch trowel is a gigantic float wheras in a palace a speed skim is a tiny float. You shouldn't use a speed skim on such a small gage. It hasn't gone off enough and if you cross it as you have your going to take from the joint. Speed skims are for use as the name suggests to speed the process up of flattening the trowel lines between coats on a large gage not for any stage after that. Your saying not to use a flexi but a speed skim has a flex blade. A plasterer should be first and foremost a trowel man. Every gage should be taken on with the intention of only using your main trowel. In my experience no boarded walls need a flexi ( unless your following another tradesmans work, then anything is possible) flexi trowels are a tool for a specific situation and should not become part of a plasterers routine. They come into their own on reskim work. You can see as early as your first coat if it will be need when you start to struggle to fill low spots with your normal application process. Even then all effort should be made to fill those areas with the hope that the plaster will have gone off slightly the second time around creating a backing for the second coat. Usually though it doesn't quite work and the stiffer blade either glides over that area or takes drags the wetter plaster out of the low spot and creates slacks over the surface ( areas that uneven plaster has failed to bond together leaving tears that a trained eye can see whe looking into the light) it is still necessary to use your main trowel at this point as the first trowel is the only stage that you can use the fat from the wall for filling and a flexi doesn't create the pressure needed to stitch the slack and take away the excess. The second trowel is then where the fexi is required. As I say the plaster in that area won't go off as fast and your main trowel will either take it away or glide over it completely whereas the flexi will flex with the wall and guarantee that the whole wall is recieving a flatten and a Polish which is particularly necessary on a reskim as bubbles and fire cracking are just a couple of ways in which you may already be experiencincing difficulties in creating not always an even wall but a smooth wall which is usually the customers desire from a reskim as it is can be a way of producing a finish that can be painted without having to tear down walls.

I'm surprised thay haven't designed a straight edge with a built in spirit level, to make getting walls plastered plumb easier?

Does anyone know if this will work to cover textured wallpaper?

Will you see that plastic thing you nailed into the wall once finished?

great video, what was the original ratio for the render mix?

I'm trying this this morning. I usually have a plasterer in but customer is cost concuius. I used to skim but at 47 my arms wrists and elbows are shot

Stop playing with it.

Trowel, screed, trowel, and you're done mate, have a pint.

How much is that?

Great video, really helped me out especially with the mix

How would British gypsum know if you sponged float

Excellent video 👍👀

I know this is an older video, but can you apply this pre grit and render to a plywood surface? Thanks

Heyy, so let me get this right?? If i took my walls in my house back to brick, where needed I can use this method throughout the house? I dont HAVE to use plasterboard on the walls, then plaster on top of them? Is there any cons to this? X